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CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHIVI/iCMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Inslltuta  for  Hiitorical  Microraproductioni  /  Institut  Canadian  da  mlcroraproductiont  hittoriquaa 


mmm9mimf»<3f'"i>^mnmtvmnKr«i'ifiwma 


m«fawMiPi«MPiiipiH!Mni 


■**H^B^*tli»»3»jtj, 


I 


Tachnitist  and  Bibliographic  Notas/Notas  tachniquas  at  bibliographiquas 


^ 


Tha  Instltuta  ha«  attampt^ti  to  obtain  tha  baat 
original  copy  availabia  for  filming.  Faaturas  of  this 
copy  which  may  ba  bibliographically  uniqua, 
which  may  altar  any  of  tha  imagas  in  tha 
reproduction,  or  which  may  significantly  changa 
tha  usual  mathod  of  filming,  ara  chackad  baiow. 


D 
D 
D 

□    Coloured  maps/ 
Cartas  gtegraphiquas  an  coulaur 


Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  couleur 

Covers  damaged/ 
Couverture  endommagie 

Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaur^  et/ou  pellicuiie 

Cove      tie  missing/ 

Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 


D 
D 
D 
D 


D 


D 


Coloured  ink  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bieue  ou  noire) 

Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 
Planches  et/ou  illustr8«^ions  en  couleur 

Bound  with  other  material/ 
ReliA  avec  d'autres  documents 

Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

La  re  liure  serrie  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
distorsion  le  long  de  la  marge  IntArieure 

Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  se  peut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  ajoutAes 
lors  d'une  restauration  apparaissent  dans  le  texte. 
mais,  lorsque  cela  Atait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  it*  film^es. 

Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  supplAmentaires: 


L'Institut  a  microfilm*  le  meilleur  exemplaira 
qu'il  lui  a  iti  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  details 
de  cet  exemplaira  qui  sont  paut-itre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  bibliographique,  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  image  reproduite,  i  j  qui  peuvent  «xiger  una 
modification  dans  la  mtithoda  normale  de  fiimage 
sont  indiquis  ci-dessous. 


□   Coloured  pages/ 
Pages  de  couleur 

S   Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommagtes 

□   Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Pages  restaur^es  et/ou  pellicul^s 

r~n    Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 


Pages  dicolorAes,  iacheties  ou  piquAes 

Pages  detached/ 
Pag..s  dttachies 

Showthrough/ 
Transparence 

Quality  of  prir 

Quality  inAgale  de  I'impression 

Includes  supplementary  materii 
Comprend  du  materiel  suppMmentaire 

Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Mition  disponible 


I      I  Pages  detached/ 

I      I  Showthrough/ 

I — I  Quality  of  print  varies/ 

r~n  Includes  supplementary  material/ 

rn  Only  edition  available/ 


D 


Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc..  have  been  refilmed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Les  pages  totalement  ou  partiellement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuillet  d'errata.  une  pelure, 
etc..  ont  Ati  filmAes  A  nouveau  de  fapon  A 
obtenir  la  mailleure  image  possible. 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  film*  au  taux  de  reduction  indiquA  ci-dessous. 

18X  22X 


10X 


14X 


26X 


XX 


12X 


16X 


20X 


^ 


28X 


32X 


i. 


■■raM!'''!*'>*P'''W^J*yj*'^^^*P''W'^*<IV*'?'''lW')l'JWii»W<BWMll|ii.iiii|i^t^^ 


Ills 

iu 

ijfier 

ine 

jage 


rata 


Blure, 


3 

2X 


\ 


Th«  copy  filmed  here  has  been  reproduced  thanks 
to  the  generosity  of: 

Library  of  Congress 
Photoduplication  Service 

The  images  appearing  here  are  the  best  quaiity 
possible  considering  the  condition  and  legibility 
of  the  original  copy  and  in  Iteeping  with  the 
filming  contract  specifications. 


Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, or  the  bacic  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  —^-(meaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  the  symbol  ▼  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 

Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  botto»t,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


1 

2 

3 

L'exemplaire  film6  fut  reproduit  grAce  A  la 
gAn^rosit*  de: 

Library  of  Congress 
Photoduplication  Service 

Les  images  suivantes  ont  6t6  reproduites  avtx  le 
plus  grand  soin,  compte  tenu  de  ia  condition  et 
de  la  nettetA  de  l'exemplaire  film6,  et  en 
conformity  avec  les  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmage. 

Les  exemplaires  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  imprimte  sont  fiimte  en  commengant 
par  le  premier  plat  et  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
dernlAre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'lKustration,  soit  par  le  second 
plat,  selon  le  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exemplaires 
originaux  sont  filmifts  en  commenpant  par  ia 
premiAre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d 'illustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  derniAre  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 

Un  des  symboies  suivants  apparaftra  sur  la 
derniire  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  le  symbols  —^  signifie  "A  SUIVRE",  le 
symbols  V  signifis  "FIN  ". 

Lss  csrtss,  planchss,  tablsaux,  stc,  psuvsnt  Atrs 
filmds  A  dss  taux  ds  reduction  diffArsnts. 
Lorsque  is  documsnt  sst  trop  grand  pour  Atrs 
rsproduit  sn  un  ssul  ciichA,  il  sst  filmA  A  partir 
ds  I'angls  supArisur  gauche,  ds  gauchs  A  droits, 
St  ds  hsut  sn  bss,  sn  prsnsnt  is  nombrs 
d'imagss  nAcsssairs.  Lss  diagrammss  suivants 
lllustrsnt  ia  methods. 


1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

•q^|MI«p<l>lV.i.<niiuLwaiijiiiainiuuiri(ian4ip{^ipf||Ck«HM|M^ 


■  Himmjilll! 


i 


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«\A^ 


■^ 


I 


/ 


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1^-^ 


Ml' 


CONTENTS. 


CHAP. 
I,    EABMK9T  ARCTIC  V0VA0E8       .  .  •  • 

11.    SIR  MARTIN  FR0BI8HER  AND  HIS  SUCCESSORS     . 
III.    EXPEDITIONS  IN  THE  EIOHTEBSTH  CENTURY     . 
IV.    811.  JOHN  ROSS'  FIRST  EXPEDITION 
V.    CAPTAIN  BUOHAn's  POLAR  EXPEDITION      . 
VI.    SIR  EDWARD  PARRY's  FIRST  EXPEDITION 
VII.    SIR  JOHN  franklin's  FIRST  LAND  EXPEDITION 
VIII.    8IR  EDWARD  PARRY's  SECOND  VOYAGE       . 

IX.    SIR  EDWARD  PAKRY's  THIRD   EXPEDITION,  AND 

HIS  POLAR  VOYAGE    .  •  •  • 

X.    SIR  JOHN  franklin's  8EC0ND  EXPEDITION 

XI.    SIR  JOHN  ROSS'  SECOND  VOYAGE 

XII.    BIB     GEORGE     BAOk's    JOURNEY,     AND     MESSRS 

DBASr;   AND    SIMPSON'S    DISCOVERIES 
XIII.    SIR  JOHN  franklin's   LAST  VOYAGE,  AND  SOME 
OF  THE  EXPEDITIONS    SENT    IN   SEARCH  OF 

HIM  .  

XIV.   SIR  ROBERT  M'CLURE's  VOYAGE 

XV.    DR.  KANE'S  EXPEDITION     -        .  .  .  • 

XVI.    SIR    LEOPOLD    M'OLINTOCK's  VOYAGE,  AND  DIS- 

COVERY  OF  THE  RELICS  OF  THE  FRANKLIN 

EXPEDITION 


FAOK 

1 

31 

49 
62 
94 
105 
120 
150 

168 
188 
206 

228 


252 
271 
302 


332 


'i.  '  I 


'I  'I ' 


i'i^ 


& 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS. 


tknr. 

(Fnntirpittt) 
<f 
18 
53 
26 
3T 
51 


MAP  OF  NOnTH  AMEniCA. 
FALL9  OF  WILHKRFOnCE. 

HCANUINAVIAN   VE98E1,      .  .  •  • 

CAKAVEL  :    TIME  OF  HEKHV  VIII. 
EHQUtMAlIX  WITH  THEIK  KAJAKS       • 

AN  EBQUIMAUX  YOUTH 

I,AnOE  HEAL,  OR  HEA-BEAU         .  .  •  • 

AN  ESQUIMAUX  DOO 

ICEDERO    SEEN    «Y    THE    CIlEWH    OF    THE  '  ISAIlEbLA 

AND  'ALEXANDER'  .  .  .  • 

AH  ESQUIMAUX  COOKING  .  •  •  • 

INTERVIEW  BETWEEN  CAPTAIN  ROSS  AND  LiEUTENANT 

PARUY  AND    THE   ESQUIMAUX   OF    THE  NORTH  OF 

GREENLAND       

WALnUSES 

sriTZBERGEN ,    ' 

CUTTING  A  DOCK  FOU  THE  '  HEOLA  '  AND  '  GRIPER 
'  HECLA  •   AND  '  OKIPKR  '  IN  WINTER  HARBOUR    . 
Bin  EDWARD  parry's  STONE     ,  .  •  • 

MUSK  OX 

ROCKY  SHORE  ON  THE  AUCTIC  OCEAN 

BUILDING   A  BNOW-HUT 

ESQUIMAUX  SEAL-HUNTER  DISTURBED  BY  A  BEAU 


73 
81 


87 

95 

09 

111 

113 

117 

13A 

139 

157 

162 


viii 


LIMT  OF  ILI.UHTUATIONH. 


lUAt'X 


El.  LA 


PAHRV  f)  HLKDOE-noATfl 

UEAU-Ml'NT  ON   I'UI.AU  HKA  .  .  . 

VIKW  ON  THK  MACKKN/IE  IIIVKII        .  , 

WINTER  OWELMNOH  Of  THE  EHQUIMAUX  . 

THE  OOOU  UNDEIIHTANDINQ  BETWEEN  THE  ENgtII 

AMU  WHITEN  OIHTITRIIRU. 
BOATH  OF  THE  '  VKJTOliy'  SAVED  IIY  THE  '  IHAII 
rURTAOE  ON   UOAKFHOHT   UIVEIl 
BBQl'IMAUX  AT  THE  fOUTAQE 
DRIFTING  IN  THE  TACK    .... 
THE  THREE  TOMBH  AT  REECHKY  ISLAND    . 
A  8LED0E  JOURNEY  .... 

THE  'investigator'   IN  TOW  ON  THE  lOE 
VIEW  OF  CAPE  BATHLRST 
'  INVESTIQATOR'  near  BAUINO'h   IHIiAND 
ESQUIMAUX  DANCING  .... 

MELVILLE  ISLAND   ..... 
DR.    KANE    AND    HIS    COMPANIONS     IN    THEIR     WINTEI 

CABIN 

METEK   «  ••••»• 

KENNEDY   CHANNEL  .  .  ... 

back's  CAPE,  IN  KENNEDY  CHANNEL 

hoisting  the  american  flag 

mrs.  eider-duck 

Baffin's  bay  by  moonlight  . 

burial  in  the  ice         .... 

bellot  strait     ..... 


"t"     " 


fc'..   ■■■..'.•■■li    '- 


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191 

1 

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B  EMglllUAt'X 

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225 

. 

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. 

343 

•             •             • 

361 

. 

263 

. 

267 

B 

276 

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) 

282 

•             •            • 

287 

. 

292 

HEHl     WlNTEIl 

.            •            . 

311 

•            •            • 

316 

. 

319 

. 

321 

.            • 

323 

•            •            • 

326 

. 

336 

. 

339 

•            t            • 

346 

S"- 


A  M/P   TO  ILLl  STRATK    THK  SKAiUIl  FOR: 


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L-iO  120 


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THi:  SKAilCIl  FOR  11U<:  NORTH-WEST  PASSAGK 


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KNIGHTS  OF  THE  FROZEN  SEA. 


CHAPTER  I. 


EARLIEST  ARCTIC  VOYAGES. 


Three  centuries  have  now  passed  away  since  a  ce- 
lebrated old  English  navigator  declared  that  'the 
only  great  thing  left  to  be  done  in  this  world  of 
ours  was  the  discovery  of  the  north-west  passage  to 
India.' 

It  was  a  singular  idea,  yet  one  which  has  been 
taken  up  and  thoroughly  worked  out  by  c  succession 
of  ardent  spirits,  down  to  our  own  times.  They  did 
not,  it  is  true,  consider  it  the  only  great  thing  re- 
maining undone ;  but  they  thought  it  a  sufficiently 
great  one  to  occupy  all  their  best  energies,  and  to 
justify  the  risking  of  their  own  and  many  other 
valuable  lives. 

Only  in  our  own  times  has  the  discovery  been 
pade,  after  all ;  and  now  that  it  is  made  no  one  at 
present  knows  what  to  do  with  it ;  for  the  dangers 

B 


TT.^Ili 


I 


,1 


^^<^«iffriasfe!*$*!,.>fisti  ' 


2 


EARLIEST  ARCTIC  VOYAGES. 


are  too  great,  and  the  Arctic  summers  too  short,  to 
allow  of  vessels  going  that  way. 

This  is  not,  however,  the  place  in  which  to  dis- 
cuss the  utility  of  the  object,  or  the  prudence  of 
those  who  went  or  sent  forth  to  seek  it.  We  have  to 
tell  our  tale ;  and  that  tale,  we  venture  to  sayj  will 
be  found  as  full  of  interesting,  romantic,  and  instruc- 
tive incidents,  as  any  which  the  many  volumes  of 
voyages  and  travels  about  the  globe  can  furnish. 

"  When  the  tale  is  done  we  may,  perhaps,  be  in  a 
better  position  to  say  'what  good  has  come  of  it 

all.' 

It  is  at  least  one  which,  ii  many  ways,  reflects 
glory  on  our  country ;  and  few,  except  Britons,  have 
any  part  in  it :  for  this  particular  field  of  discovery 
seems  long  to  have  been  regarded  as  our  own  special 
ground,  and  other  nations  have  almost  entirely  re- 
signed it  to  us. 

England  has,  indeed,  always  been  forward  in  the 
work  of  discovering  new  shores ;  and  though  once  by 
no  means  so  enterprising  as  some  of  the  other  Euro- 
pean nations,  she  yet  began  eaxly;  and  her  naval 
spirit,  as  well  as  power,  has  been  increasing  down  to 
the  present  time. 

It  was  in  the  reign  of  our  great  Alfred  that 
Englishmen  made  their  first  voyage  of  discovery—  at 
least,  the  first  of  which  we  have  any  record ;  and  that 
one  was  in  a  northerly  direction. 

At  that  time  the  Venetians  were  the  first  mari- 
time power  in  Europe,  and  its  great  carriers.  Th^ 
traded  with  all  the  rich  products  of  Turkey  and 


B  too  short,  to 

which  to  dis- 
B  prudence  of 
:.  We  have  to 
ire  to  sayj  will 
c,  and  instruc- 
ay  volumes  of 
m  furnish, 
rhaps,  he  in  a 
las  come  of  it 

Y  ways,  reflects 
t  Britons,  have 
Id  of  discovery 
)ur  own  special 
ost  entirely  re- 

L  forward  in  the 
though  once  hy 
the  other  Euro- 
and  her  naval 
easing  down  to 

eat  Alfred  that 
if  discovery — at 
ecord ;  and  that 

)  the  first  mari- 
carriers.  ThCT 
of  Turkey  and 


M' 


♦  I  * 


SIMON  OTHO. 


s 


India,  bringing  the  latter  by  the  overland  route; 
and  of  this  traflfic  they  were  determined  to  maintain 
the  monopoly.  So  that  if  an  English  or  French 
vessel  ventured  into  the  Mediterranean  it  was  im- 
mediately seized,  either  by  the  Venetians  or  the 
Moors,  and  the  crew  carried  into  slavery. 

But  besides  this,  heavy  taxes,  intended  for  the 
support  of  the  Romish  Church,  crushed  the  commerce 
of  England.  These,  therefore,  the  king  repealed; 
and  feeling  that  it  was  useless  to  think  of  rivaling 
the  Venetians  on  their  own  coasts,  he  determined  to 
try  to  find  another  way  of  reaching  those  far  Eastern 
countries  from  whence  they  drew  their  wealth. 

The  field  which  he  entered  was  one  since  chiefly 
occupied  by  the  Russians,  namely,  the  search  for  the 
north-east  paaaage. 

In  the  early  chronicles  we  read  of  a  commission 
given  by  him  to  a  certain  Simon  Otho,  or  Ochter, 
to  take  under  his  command  '  the  goode  ship  Adel- 
githa,'  and  with  her  to  sail  across  seas,  to  discover 
lands  unknown,  all  '  for  the  glorye  of  God,  the 
honour  of  his  kinge,  and  publique  goode  of  his 
countrie.' 

It  was  only  the  southern  parts  even  of  Norway 
and  Sweden  that  were  then  known  to  Europe,  nor 
did  any  one  presume  to  say  how  the  land  lay  beyond 
a  very  moderate  latitude;  but  there  was  an  impression 
that,  somehow  or  other,  ships  might  sail  in  a  north- 
easterly direction  until  they  reached  India  on  the 
,^other  side. 

Simon  Otho  seems,  therefore,  to  have  been  the 


i|iv 


-^HtwptKfeMiiiwiiiir' 


4  EARLIEST  ARCTIC  VOYAGES. 

first  to  attempt  the  north-east  passage ;  and  taking 
his  instructions  from  a  Danish  pirate  he  set  forth, 
imagining  that,  about  latitude  55°  north,  he  should 
find  a  sea  which  washed  the  northern  shores  of  Eu- 
rope and  Asia,  and  by  which  ho  might  sail  round  to 
the  desired  haven. 

Knowing  nothing  of  the  peculiar  dangers  of  the 
Baltic,  he  soon  reached  that  sea ;  and  almost  imme- 
diately his  ship  struck  on  a  rock,  now  known  as 
Falsterbom  Reef;  and  he  and  his  crew  were  placed 
in  great  jeopardy. 

However,  the  '  Adelgitha'  was  got  off,  and  after 
being  repaired  at  what  is  now  probably  the  town  of 
Elsinore,  she  was  brought  back  to  the  North  Sea ; 
and  they  continued  their  voyage  along  the  coast  as 
far  as  latitude  68°  north,  where,  getting  among  the 
numerouL  rocky  islands  of  that  part,  the  'goode 
ship '  again  met  with  much  damage,  and  her  captain's 
courage  cooled;  so  that,  satisfied  that  no  one  had 
ever  been  so  far  north  as  himself,  he  turned  and 
came  back  home  again.  This  is  one  account.  But, 
another  says  that  he  reached  as  far  as  to  the  river 
Kola,  if  not  to  the  White  Sea  itself. 

The  narrative  drawn  up  by  King  Alfred,  from 
Otho's  own  story,  speaks  of  whales  and  reindeer, 
and  describes  the  Fins.  It  has  called  forth  the 
praises  of  modem  writers  on  account  of  its  remark- 
able clearness;  so  that,  perhaps,  the  difficulty  of 
deciding  on  the  limit  of  the  voyage  arises  from  the 
misrepresentations  of  later  chroniclers.  The  under- 
taking does  not  appear  to  have  been  followed  up. 


:     *       yi^"'     ^    J^l   J        iTi*     ^^        ,«   .J*S_S,»_«.«.*^'t«3W=.^^    *         j.Jg 


1 


m 


;  and  taking; 
he  set  forth, 
rth,  he  should 
shores  of  Eu- 
sail  round  to 

langers  of  the 
almost  imme- 
ow  known  as 
V  were  placed 

,  off,  and  after 
y  the  town  of 
e  North  Sea; 
;  the  coast  m 
ng  among  the 
t,  the  *goode 
i  her  captain's 
,t  no  one  had 
te  turned  and 
iccount.  But , 
8  to  the  river 

J  Alfred,  from 
and  reindeer, 
lied  forth  the 
of  its  remark- 
e  difficulty  of 
irises  from  the 
.  The  under- 
1  followed  up, 


EIREK  RAUDA.  O 

for  troublous  times  succeedea;  but  in  this,  as  in 
many  other  things,  the  reign  of  Alfred  seemed  to 
give  a  sort  of  picture  of  England's  future  character 
and  condition. 

There  cat*  be  no  doubt  that  the  firs  to  enter  on 
that  field  of  discovery,  which  has  obtained  the  honour 
of  knighthood  for  Ross,  Parry,  B'ranklin,  and  so  many 
others,  were  the  old  sea-rovers  of  the  North.  And 
very  probably,  if  the  riches  of  the  southern  countries 
of  Europe  had  not  so  strongly  drawn  them  in  that 
direction,  their  roving  disposition  might  have  long 
ago  led  them  on  to  the  point  which  we  have  only  so 
recently  attained,  and  which  to  a  Northern  people, 
and  a  very  hardy  one,  would  have  proved  so  much 
less  difficult  to  reach. 

As  it  was,  they  no  doubt  sometimes  wandered 
for  the  very  sake  of  wander'.ng ;  and  the  first-fruits 
of  their  discoveries  was  the  island  of  Iceland,  at  first 
named  by  them  Snowland,  on  which  some  of  them 
were  driven  by  a  violent  storm,  about  the  end  of  the 
,  ninth  century,  and  which  they  soon  decided  to  colo- 
nise, making  it  a  refuge  for  all  who  were  oppressed 
at  home. 

A  century  passed,  and  the  Icelanders  received 
into  their  body  a  powerful  Norwegian  chieftain,  who 
had  been  banished  for  homicide.  His  son  Eirek, 
sumamed  Rauda,  *  the  Red,'  from  his  sanguinary  die- 
position,  soon  followed  him ;  and  finding  no  occu- 
pation in  the  colony  which  suited  his  tast«s,  and 
being,  possibly,  obliged,  to  leave  it,  he  resolved  to 
make  a  voyage  of  discovery  to  a  land  on  which  one 


6 


EARLIEST  ARCTIC  VOYAGES. 


of  hifl  countr^'Hien  had  been  driven  by  a  Btorm  ;  and 
BO  he  set  out  westward,  A.D.  982. 

Soon  two  lofty  raountains  met  his  view,  and 
these  he  called  Huitserken  and  Blaarserken — White 
Shirt  and  Blue  Shirt — one  being  covered  with  snow 
and  the  other  with  ice.  He  landed  on  a  little  island, 
just  south  of  Cape  Farewell,  and  spent  the  winter 
there.  In  the  spring  he  explored  the  mainland,  and 
happening  to  find  one  part  covered  with  verdure, 
he  called  the  country  *  Greenland,'  because  he  said 


Beand'-navUn  Veael. 

that  '  a  good  name  would  induce  people  to  go  and 
settle  there : '  though,  as  an  old  writer  says,*  '  Green- 
land is  a  place  in  nature  nothing  like  unto  the  name : 
for  certainly  there  is  no  place  in  the  world  yet  known 
and  discovered  that  is  less  green  than  it.' 

So  Eirek,  the  Red  Hand,  both  discovered  and 
named  Greenland  ;  and  what  is  very  surprising,  when 
we  think  of  the  scanty  provisions  generally  carried 
in  those  days,  w6  read  that  he  remained  there 
three  years,  and  returned  to  Iceland  only  to  describe 

•  Purchas. 


'.\,'1»W  JTH^ 


"TP     |m 


a  Rtorm ;  and 


bis 


and 


view, 
jrken — White 
red  with  snow 
a  little  island, 
snt  the  winter 
mainland,  and 
with  verdure, 
icause  he  said 


iple  to  go  and 
says,*  'Green- 
anto  the  name : 
jrld  yet  known 
it.' 

iiscovered  and 
irprising,  when 
morally  carried 
emained  there 
nly  to  describe 


LEIF.  7 

to  his  countrymen  its  wonderful  advantages ;  "and 
then  the  next  year  he  went  back  with  numerous 
followers,  and  settled  on  a  creek  which  was  named 
after  him,  Eireksfjord,  which  soon  became  an  im- 
portant colony. 

A  few  years  after  this,  Eirek's  own  son,  Leif, 
visited  the  first  Christian  king  of  Norway,  was 
converted  himself,  and  soon  went  over  to  the  new 
colony,  taking  a  piiest  with  him  to  preach  Christi- 
anity to  the  colonists. 

In  A.D.  1121  their  first  bishop  was  consecrated, 
and  for  three  centuries  the  colony  and  church  con- 
tinued to  flourish.  But  after  that,  strange  to  say, 
both  went  to  ruin,  and  very  soon  altogether  dis- 
appeared. Of  this  extraordinary  circumstance  many 
writers  have  tried  to  discover  the  cause;  and  some 
have  supposed  that,  owing  to  the  hindrances  thrown 
in  the  way  of  their  trade  by  the  mother-country, 
they  were  really  starved  out :  but,  in  fact,  it  is  a 
mystery  which  no  one  has  yet  explained.  All  we 
know  is  that  these  colonies  did  exist,  and  are  gone. 

>  There  is  reason,  however,  to  believe  that  Green- 
land was  not  all  of  the  new  hemisphere  discovered 
by  the  Northmen.  It  is  said  that  a  son  of  one  of 
Eirek's  companions,  wishing  again  to  winter  at  the 
paternal  hearth,  fitted  out  a  vessel  and  tried  to  follow 
his  father.  But  not  knowing  the  land,  or  how  to 
reach  it,  this  Bjami  was  much  driven  about,  and  at 
last  saw  land,  which  did  not  answer  to  the  descrip- 
tions which  he  had  heard  of  Greenland.  When  at 
length  he  reached  his  father's  dwelling,  this  won- 


't.. II 


•^ 

';*' 


:/ 


EARLIBST  ARCTIC  VOYAGES. 


.  derflil  voyage  of  his  was  much  ttilked  about,  and  the 
.consequence  was  that  about  A.D.  1000  I^eif,  the  son 
of  Eirek,  of  whom  we  have  spoken,  iitted  out  a 
vessel  and  started  on  a  voyage  of  discovery.  He 
soon  made  the  land  described  by  Bjarni,  a  rugged 
plain  of  broad  flat  Tccks,  which  would  appear  to 
have  been  Newfoundland ;  and  next  came  to  another 
part,  the  description  of  which  answers  to  that  of 
the  north  coact  of  Nova  Scotia,  where  he  and  his 
companions  built  houses  and  passed  the  winter, 
returning  to  Greenland  next  spring  laden  with 
timber  and  grapes,  after  naming  the  country  in 
which  they  had  been  staying  Vinland  —  the  land 
of  the  vine. 

They  visited  it  from  time  to  time,  but  seem 
never  to  have  attempted  to  colonise  it. 

Besides  what  we  have  related  above,  we  have 
a  very  mysterious  account  of  a  voyage  said  to  have 
been  made  in  the  twelfth  century  by  Madoc,  prince 
of  Wales,  to  some  part  of  the  American  continent ; 
but  little  can  be  made  of  it.  A  citizen  of  Marseilles 
also  performed  a  voyage  to  the  north  in  those  early 
times ;  but  where  he  went  we  do  not  know,  as  he 
only  tells  us  that  '  his  progress  was  at  length  ar- 
rested by  a  barrier  of  a  peculiar  nature,  being 
neither  earth,  air,  nor  sky,  but  something  composed 
of  all  three,  through  which  he  could  not  penetrate  I' 

Another  account  of  a  north-western  voyage,  that 
of  the  two  Zenos,  has  become  more  generally  known, 
and  certainly  produced  great  results,  as  we  shall  see 
as  we  go  on. 


...asgaa^'- 


ibout,  and  the 
I^eif,  the  son 
iitted  out  a 
iscovery.  He 
krni,  A  rugged 
lid  appear  to 
me  to  another 
irs  to  that  of 
re  he  and  his 
i  the  winter, 
;  laden  with 
le  country  in 
id  —  the  land 

me,  but  seem 
it. 

)ove,  we  have 
)  Baid  to  have 
Madoc,  prince 
'an  continent; 
1  of  MarseilleB 
in  those  early 
;  know,  bb  he 
at  length  ar- 
nature,  being 
ling  composed 
ot  penetrate  1' 
a  voyage,  that 
lerally  known, 
is  we  shall  see 


BEBAfrriAN  CABOT. 


Nicolo  Zeno  and  his  brother  were  two  Venci 
travellers,  who,  on  a  voyage  to  one  of  tlie  wester 
countries  of  Europe,  were  caught  in  a  storm,  and 
cast  away  on  a  strange  coast,  which  some  suppose 
to  have  l>een  Greenland,  some  an  island  nearer 
home.  In  the  old  records  it  is  called  '  Engrone- 
land.' 

Leaving  all  these  early  attempts,  we  will  now 
pass  on  to  sketch  the  history  of  those  which,  be- 
ginning in  the  reign  of  Henry  VII.,  hu:<»  been 
followed  by  others  in  a  constant  succe«8ion  down  to 
our  own  '  age  of  travelling.' 

The  discovery  of  America  by  Columbus  had  set 
many  a  man  longing  to  share  in  his  honours,  by 
being  the  first  to  bring  to  light  some  other  unknown 
aud  new  land  ;  and  though  England  had  missed  this 
honour,  her  spirit  was  aroused  when  she  found  that 
not  only  had  Spain  been  before  her  here,  but  that 
Portugal  also  was  boldly  launching  forth  her  ves- 
sels on  the  ocean,  and  that  Vasco  de  Gama  had 
found  out  for  her  the  passage  to  India  round  the 
Cape  of  Good  Hope. 

So,  when  Sebastian  Cabot  proposed  to  attempt  to 
outdo  Portugal  by  finding  another  passage  of  half  the 
length  round  the  north-west  coast  of  North  America, 
the  idea  waa  entertained  even  by  Henry  VII.  himself. 
This  Sebastian  was  a  Venetian,  and  the  son  of  an 
adventurous  navigator  then  residing,  as  a  merchant, 
in  Bristol.  He  himself  is  said  to  have  been  bom 
there ;  and  very  early,  he  tells  us,  he  '  felt  in  his 
heart  a  great  flame  of  desire  to  do  some  notable  thing.' 


*l   . 


(«■' 


10 


Karlieht  arptic  voyaoes. 


He  is  Miiid  to  have  Iwen  the  firitt  to  attempt  the 
North-we»t  ToBHage ;  and  a  Iwld  Hchenu)  it  wuh  for 
tlio«o  timcH,  when  ho  little  was  known  of  the  new 
continent  at  all. 

But  he  does  not  seem  to  have  expected  to  b« 
obliged  to  Hteer  very  far  to  the  north  before  he  found 
the  ocean  across  which  he  intended  to  sail  direct  for 
•the  land  of  Cathay'  — that  mysterious  country  of 
vast  and  unknown  treasures.     '  Understanding,'  he 
said,  •  by  reason  of  the  sphere,  that  if  he  should  sail 
by  nortla-west  he  should,  by  a  shorter  track,  come 
to  India,'  he  '  caused  the  king  to  be  advertised  of 
his  device,  because  all  men  thought  it  a  thing  more 
divine  than  human  to  sail  by  the  west  into  the  east, 
where    spices    do   grow;'    and    the   king  quickly 
ordered  two  caravels  to  be  prepared,  with  all  things 
necessary  for  so  long  a  voyage.     In  the  summer  of 
1496  he  set  sail ;  but  when  he  found  that,  instead  of 
quickly  finding  t.  j  upper  coast,  he  was  forced  to 
continue  his   course   more  and  still   more  to   the 
northward,  because  the  land  went  on,  as  it  appeared, 
interminably  in  that  direction,  he  became  greatly 
disheartened,  especially  as  the  coast  of  Newfound- 
land, at  which  he  touched,  promised  no  such  riches 
as  Spain  had  found  in  the  south. 

A  cold,  dreary  place  it  seemed  to  him ;  and  the 
people  he  described  as  *  like  to  brute  beasts  in  their 
behaviour,  dressed  in  beasts'  skins,  and  eating  raw 
flesh ;'  so,  after  taking  away  from  thence  three  of 
the  poor  Esquimaux  as  specimens,  he  sailed  south- 
wards, and  soon  came  in  sight  of  Florida.    Then,  his 


)  attempt  the 
)iue  it  WttH  for 
m  of  the  new 

jxpected  to  be 
>efore  he  found 
)  sail  direct  for 
3U8  country  of 
erstanding/  he 
'  he  Bhould  sail 
er  track,  come 
e  advertised  of 
,t  a  thing  more 
tt  into  the  east, 

king  quickly 
with  all  things 
the  summer  of 
that,  instead  of 

was  forced  to 
1  more  to  the 
,  as  it  appeared, 
became  greatly 
t  of  Newfound- 

uo  such  riches 

9  him ;  and  the 
e  beasts  in  their 
and  eating  raw 
thence  three  of 
lie  sailed  south- 
•rida.    Then,  his 


1; 


Hra^sTIA'':  cabot. 


.     v.ai 

••*■  • 

victuals  fiiiling  him,  he  departed  and  returned  t*;^   . 
Engknd;  where  ho  HtaU^d,  that  in  the  montli  of  July  "^  t 
he  had  found  in  thone  seas  •  Huch  great  h.uipos  of 
ise '  that  ho  ♦  durst  passe  no  fiirther :  aUo,  that  the 
dayes  were  very  long,  and  in  maner  witliout  nyght, 
and  the  nyghteH  very  clear.' 

SebuHtiuu  Cabot  has  con8e«iuently  betm  generally 
considered  as  the  discoverer  of  these  two  countries, 
Newfoundland  and  Florida ;  though  some  suppose 
that  his   own   father,  John  Cabot,  had   previously 
visited  the  former,  even  at  an  earlier  date  than  that 
in  which  Columbus  discovered  the  West  Indies  and 
South  America.     HeA  the  great  Alfred,  instead  of 
the  mean   and   sordid   Henry,   been    then   on   the 
throne,  the  records  of  these  events  would  have  been 
regarded  as  matter  of  some  interest,  and  would  have 
been  more  carefully  kept,  and  not  allowed  to  •  moul- 
der in  one  of  the  lanes  of  the  metropolis.'     But  men 
sailed  then  in  search  of  gold ;  and  such  discoveries  as 
these  were  of  little  account. 

Sebastian  Cabot  returned  to  find  England  in  a 
great  ferment,  on  accoimt  of  the  rising  of  Perkin  War- 
beck  and  the  preparations  for  a  war  with  Scotland  ; 
and  seeing  his  design  overlooked,  he  some  time  after- 
wards entered  the  service  of  Spain,  and  made  many 
voyages  under  the  auspices  of  the  Spanish  king. 

But  though  the  report  of  these  new  lands  was 
little  thought  of  in  England,  yet  Portugal,  then  the 
greatest  maritime  power  in  the  world,  eagerly 
followed  it  up. 

By  her  discovery  of  the  passage  round  the  Cape 


■.Lj.-«'i 


12 


EARLIEST  ARCTIC  VOYAGES. 


she  had  struck  a  fatal  blow  at  the  powrtr  of  her  great 
rival,  Venice  ;  and  her  sons  were  not  slew  in  pursuing 
their  advantage.  Multitudes  of  them  were  flocking 
to  the  New  World ;  and  now  that  another  part  of  it 
was  laid  open,  they  made  ready  to  enter  that  also. 

In  A.D.  1500,  only  two  years  after  the  return  of 
Cabot,  Gaspar  Cortereal,  a  gentleman  of  high  birth 
in  the  court  of  King  Emmanuel  of  Portugal,  sailed 
from  Lisbon,  and  after  touching  at  the  Azores,  pur- 
sued his  course  in  a  north-westerly  direction,  until 
he  came  to  the  coast  of  Labrador,  to  which  he  gave 
the  name  of  Terra  Verde,  and  which  some  have 
therefore  confounded  with  Greenland,  though  Sir 
John  Barrow  shows  that  this  is  a  mistaken  notion. 

Gaspar  Cortereal,  like  Cabot,  was  the  son  of  a 
naval  adventurer  ;  and  his  father  also  is  said  to  have 
been  in  these  northern  seas  before  him.  Gaspar 
explored  the  coast  for  some  hundreds  of  rriiles,  and 
took  home  with  him  some  specimens  of  its  in- 
habitants, \7ho,  according  to  the  opinion  of  a  Vene- 
tian ambassador,  given  in  a  letter  to  his  brother 
after  Corisrears  return,  were  *  admirably  calculated 
for  labour,  and  the  best  slaves  he  had  ever  seen.' 

That  'might  is  right'  was  certainly  the  pr^.- 
vailing  maxim  of  that  day :  nor  did  many  persons 
then  seem  to  feel  th"-^  elves  bo.md  to  'keep  their 
bands  from  picking  and  stealing,'  except  in  their 
owu  native  lands.  On  this  principle  had  Alonzo 
Gonzales,  twenty  years  before,  suggested  that  the 
poor  Africans  might  be  appropriated  by  civilized 
nations,  and  even  built  tho  fort  of  D'Elmina  for  the 


.f  JF,';iiSwvv=*iK5i^'^.-,„!  V 


OYAGES. 

he  powrtr  of  her  great 
e  not  slciw  in  pursuing 
)f  them  were  flocking 
lat  another  part  of  it 
r  to  enter  that  also. 
■8  after  the  return  of 
tleman  of  high  birth 
el  of  Portugal,  sailed 
g  at  the  Azores,  pur- 
isterly  direction,  until 
lor,  to  which  he  gave 
id  which  some  have 
reenland,  though  Sir 
.8  a  mistaken  notion, 
lot,  was  the  son  of  a 
er  also  is  said  to  have 
before  him.  Gaspar 
imdreds  of  rmles,  and 
■ipecJmens  of  its  in- 
le  opinion  of  a  Vene- 
letter  to  his  brother 
admirably  calculated 
i  he  had  ever  seen.' 
OS  certainly  the  pr^,- 
lor  did  many  persons 
30. md  to  'keep  their 
ing,'  except  in  their 
principle  had  Alonzo 
i,  suggested  that  the 
opriated  by  civilized 
t  of  D'Elmina  for  the 


THL'  CORTEREAM. 


18 


purpose;  thus  earning  for  himself  the  infamy  of 
being  the  originator  of  the  African  slave-trade.  And 
80  it  was  planned  to  use  the  mild  and  laborious 
Esquimaux,  though,  happily,  that  scheme  fell  to  the 

ground. 

Next  year  Gaspar  was  sent  out  again,  and  en- 
deavoured to  penetrate  still  further  north.  A  stonn, 
however,  arose  as  he  was  entering  a  strait,  which 
was  probably  Hudson's ;  and  he  was  never  heard  of 
more.  When  the  other  vessel  which  had  accom- 
panied him  returned  with  the  news,  his  brother 
Michael  setoff  in  search  of  Gaspar ;  but  of  him  also 
no  tidings  ever  reached  home:  and  the  king,  who 
had  brought  the  brothers  up,  and  was  much  troubled 
at  their  loss,  positively  refused  to  allow  the  third  to 
risk  his  life.  He  sent  out  armed  vessels  himself  in 
search,  but  they  met  with  no  success ;  so  the  land, 
which  Gaspar  had  named  Terra  Verde,  was,  after 
them,  called  'the  land  of  the  Cortereals.' 

It  was  in  1524,  the  year  before  the  battle  of 
Pavia,  that  France  followed  the  example  of  her 
neighbours,  and  fitted  out  four  vessels  for  an  Arctic 

voyage. 

The  command  of  the  expedition  was  given  to  a 
Florentine  named  Giovanni  Verazzano ;  and  he  must 
have  been  a  man  of  great  energy  and  ability— well 
suited  to  the  trust;  for  we  read  that  he  coasted 
along  the  whole  of  what  is  now  the  United  Slates, 
as  well  as  a  good  part  of  British  America.  But 
when  he  returned  and  found  Francis  a  prisoner,  the 
French  army  destroyed,  and  his  country  half-ruined. 


t':'i 


ma.'.^.. 


•■lanfl^pm 


14 


EARLIEST  ARCTIC  VOYAGES. 


lili 


he  did  not,  it  may  be  supposed,  meet  with  all  the 
honour  or  encouragement  which  he  had  so  well 
earned;  and  ten  years  parsed  before  the  French 
made  another  attempt. 

Jacques  Cartier  was  then  sent  out ;  and  he  made 
two  voyages,  in  the  course  of  which  he  circumnavi- 
gated Newfoundland— 'the  land  of  Cod  Fish,'  as  it 
had  been  called — discovered  the  Isle  of  the  As- 
sumption, explored  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence,  which 
he  also  named,  ascended  the  river  St.  Lawrence, 
and  got  into  friendly  relations  with  the  natives,  who 
brought  their  paralytic  old  king,  Agonhanna,  to  be 
toucher"-  s«nd  cured,  as  they  hoped,  by  the  Admiral. 

The  French  party  remained  some  time  at 
Hochlaga — or  Montreal,  as  it  has  since  been  called, 
f colli  the  French  name,  Mont  Royale — and  learnt 
from  the  Incuoiis  not  only  a  cure  for  the  scurvy, 
from  which  they  saffered  much,  in  a  decoction  of 
the  leaves  and  bark  of  the  North  American  white 
pine,  but  also  became  acquainted  with  tobacco. 
And  great  was  their  amazement  when  they  first  saw 
the  natives  *  suck  it  so  long,  and  fill  their  bodies  so 
full  of  smoke  that  it  came  out  of  tiieir  mouths  and 
nostrils,  even  as  out  of  the  tunnel  of  a  chimnoy ! ' 

But  as  no  gold  or  silver  had  been  found,  the 
French  king  was  not  particularly  well  satisfied  with 
their  expedition,  and  oared  not  to  undertake  the 
ext/ense  of  another ;  nor  was  it  till  four  years  after 
that  Cartier  was  enabled  to  revisit  the  country,  by 
joining  in  the  private  expedition  of  a  French  noble- 
man who  wished  to  settle  there. 


k.^ 


II     illiTin-iiiiitiiilrn 


»i|lii|[f|-.|iMi 


5S. 


ROBERT  THORN  E. 


15 


et  with  all  the 
le  had  so  well 
re   the  French 

t ;  and  he  made 

he  circumnavi- 

Cod  Fish,'  as  it 

sle  of  the  As- 

jaw  fence,  which 

St,  Lawrence, 

he  natives,  who 

gonhanna,  to  be 

f  the  Admiral. 

some    time  at 

Dce  been  called, 

de — and  learnt 

for  the  scurvy, 

a  decoction  of 

American  white 

1   with   tobacco. 

sn  they  first  saw 

1  their  bodies  so 

idir  mouths  and 

a  chimnoy  1 ' 

t)een  found,  the 

ill  satisfied  with 

>  undertake  the 

four  years  after 

the  country,  by 

El  French  noble> 


Had  ho  not  most  disgracefully,  on  the  first  oc- 
casion, rewarded  the  kindness  of  the  natives  by  car- 
rying off  their  old  chief,  Donnaconna,  into  France, 
they  might  easily  have  done  this.  But  now  Cartier 
was  very  differently  received ;  and  they  had  to  build 
a  fort  for  their  own  defence  on  the  site  of  the  present 
city,  Montreal. 

But  to  return  to  English  enterprises. 

Cabot  began  his  Arctic  researches,  as  we  have 
seen,  in  the  reign  of  Henry  VII.  In  the  reign  of 
Henry  VIII.  there  appear  to  have  been  two  Polar 
expeditions;  and  both  were  made  by  Englishmen. 
Of  these,  however,  the  records  are  but  scanty. 

The  first  was  undertaken  by  a  merchant  of  Bristol 
of  the  name  o*'  Robert  Thome,  who,  having  long  re- 
sided at  Seville,  where  he  had  heard  much  of  the 
treasures  pouring  into  the  Spanish  coffers  from  the 
New  World,  as  well  as  froEi  Iidia,  memorialized  the 
king  on  the  subject. 

He  urged  on  his  attention  that,  by  sailing  north- 
ward and  passing  the  Pole,  they  would  get  at  the 
East  Indies  by  a  mttch.  sh<»ti9r  route  than  that  lately 
discovered  round  the  south  of  Africa ;  and,  besides, 
that  three-fourths  of  the  world  being  discovered  by 
other  princes,  this  remaining  one  was  the  only  way 
open  to  glory:  and  so  enthusiastic  was  he  in  the 
matter,  that  he  even  persuaded  himself  that  men  had 
overrated  the  severity  of  the  cold  in  the  extreme 
north ;  and  maintained  that  the  danger  probably  lay 
only  some  little  way  before  the  Pole  is  reached,  and 
after  it  is  passed.   '  After  which,'  he  said,  •  it  is  clear 


ia 


111 -If 


*:«■ 


■aa 


Umii 


1« 


EARLIEST  ARCTIC  VOYAGES. 


that  from  thenceforth  the  seas  and  lands  are  as  tem- 
perate as  in  :he8e  parts  I ' 

Two  ships  were,  it  appears,  at  length  granted  to 
this  eager  man ;  one  of  which  was  cast  away  on  the 


Canvel :  time  of  Honry  VIII. 

coast  of  Newfoundland,  and  of  the  other  there  is 
no  record. 

The  other  expedition  was  undertaken  by  a  Lon- 
doner, a  certain  Master  Hore ;  who  is  described  as  *  a 


ss. 

nds  are  as  tem- 

agth  granted  to 
ist  away  on  the 


other  there  is 

Aken  by  a  Lon- 
described  as '  a 


MASTER  HORE. 


17 


man  of  goodly  stature  and  great  courage,  and  given 
to  the  study  of  cosmography.'  He  took  with  him  a 
hundred  and  twenty  persons,  thirty  of  whom  were 
gentlemen  who  belonged  to  the  Inns  of  Court,  and 
sailed  to  the  coast  of  Newfoundland,  where  they  got 
into  such  fearful  distress  that  they  had  begun  to  kill 
and  eat  one  another,  when  a  French  vessel  arrived, 
of  which  the  English  contrived  to  make  themselves 
masters ;  and  out  of  which  they  took  provisions  enough 
to  carry  them  home.  The  French  followed,  and  com- 
plained of  the  outrage  which  hud  been  committed  on 
them ;  but  Henry  was  so  touched  at  the  tale  of  his 
poor  subjects'  sufferings,  that,  though  he  well  repaii*. 
the  French  for  their  loss,  he  refused  to  punish  those 
who  had  done  the  wrong. 

Henry,  however,  took  very  little  interest  ia  any 
of  these  voyages :  but  of  his  young  son,  Edward,  we 
are  told,  that  '  naval  affairs  had  seized  his  mind  as  a 
sort  of  passion ;'  and  that  •  while  yet  a  child  he  knew 
all  the  ports  and  harbours  in  his  dominions,  as  well 
as  in  France  and  Scotland,  how  much  water  was 
in  them,  and  what  was  the  way  of  coming  into 
them.' 

Sebastian  Cabot  returned  to  England,  which  he 
regarded  apparently  as  his  native  land,  in  his  old 
age ;  and  his  worth  was  soon  discovered  by  the  young 
king,  by  whom,  it  is  said,  he  was  created  Grrand 
Pilot  of  England,  with  a  pension  of  250  marks,  or 
166i.  13«.  4d.  of  our  money,  '  in  consideration  of  the 
good  and  acceptable  service  done  by  him.' 

It  is  at  least  certain,  that  he  was  placed  at  the 

c 


iIamP 


18 


EARLIEST  ARCrriC  VOYAQES. 


m 


head  of  a  company  of  merchants,  who  were  making 
preparations  for  a  north-eastern  voyage  of  dis- 
covery. 

Sir  Hugh  Willoughby,  who,  if  not  much  of  a 
sailor,  is  described  as  a  most  valiant  gentleman,  was 
appointed  to  the  command  of  this  expedition ;  while 
Richard  Chancelor,  a  *  man  of  great  estimation  for 
the  many  good  parts  of  wit  in  him,'  was  captain  of 
one  of  the  three  ships  fitted  out :  and  Cabot  drew  up 
the  instructions  for  their  guidance. 

Notwithstanding  the  ill  success  of  various  previous 
voyages  the  present  adventurers  started  in  high 
spirits,  dropping  down  to  Greenwich,  where  the  court 
lay  in  a  kind  of  triumph,  and  being  met  there  by  a 
rush  of  courtiers  and  common  people,  who  flew  to  the 
banks  as  they  passed,  and  gave  them  as  heai-ty  a 
cheering  as  if  they  were  returning  in  f-ill  success,  in- 
stead of  only  setting  out  on  a  most  perilous,  and,  as 
it  proved,  a  very  mournful  expedition. 

At  the  North  Cape,  Cbancelor's  ship  got  sepa- 
rated from  the  other  vessels  in  a  storm  ;  and  they 
never  met  again. 

«  Willoughby  and  the  third  ship  continued  their 
course  to  Nova  Zembla,  and  even  tried  to  reach  a 
more  northerly  latitude,  but  were  soon  obliged  to 
turn ;  and  at  length  the  two  crews,  consisting  of 
sixty  persons,  got  shut  up  bv  the  ice  on  the  coast  of 
Russian  Lapland,  where  they  all  perished  miserably^ 
Sir  Hugh  Willougby's  body  was  found  frozen  to 
death  by  some  Russian  fishermen  two  years  after.  A 
journal  lay  beside  him  ;  and  his  last  entiy  told  how 


i. 


WILLOUOHBY  AND  CHANCELOR. 


19 


>  were  making 
oyage  of  die- 

lot  much  of  a 
gentleman,  was 
)edition;  while 
estimation  for 
was  captain  of 
Cabot  drew  up 

various  previous 
tarted  in  high 
where  the  court 

met  there  by  a 
who  flew  to  the 
em  as  hearty  a 

f'll!  success,  in- 
perilous,  and,  as 
1. 

ship  got  sapa- 
itorm ;  and  they 

continued  their 
tried  to  reach  a 
soon  obliged  to 
(?8,  consisting  of 
!e  on  the  coast  of 
rished  miserably^ 
found  frozen  to 
'0  years  after.  A 
t  entiy  told  how 


parties  had  been  sent  out  several  ways  in  search  of 
some  human  habitation,  but  without  success. 

An  attempt  was  made  to  bring  home  the  bodies 
of  the  adventurers  in  their  own  vessels;  but  they 
sank  by  the  way;  and  thus  those  who  were  con- 
ducting them  were  also  lost. 

Cbancelor,  meantime,  hid  bec-n  more  fortunate. 
He  had  resolutely  held  on  his  way  until  he  came  to 
the  White  Sea,  and  landed  at  Archangel,  where  he 
learnt  from  the  fishermen  that  he  was  in  the  do- 
minions of  a  great  sovereigjn,  named  Ivan  Vasilovitch, 
who  held  his  court  at  Moscow,  six  hundred  miles 
away. 

At  orce  he  determined  to  visit  this  monarch ; 
and  although  they  had  to  travel  the  whole  distance 
over  the  snow  in  sledges,  he  carried  out  his  purpose, 
and  thus  laid  the  foundation  of  our  commercial  in- 
tercourse with  Russia.  The  company  of  mer- 
chants, who  from  thenceforth  were  known  as  the 
Muscovy  Company,  were  so  well  pleased  with  his 
success  that  they  soon  sent  him  out  again,  both  to 
trade  and  to  make  fresh  discoveries.  On  his  return 
from  this  second  voyage  he  brought  with  him  an 
ambassador,  who  had  been  sent  by  the  emperor  to 
visit  the  court  of  Philip  and  Mary;  but  a  storm 
overtook  them  at  sea,  and  Cbancelor,  with  many  of 
his  crew,  was  lost,  though  the  ambassador  escaped, 
and  was  graciously  received  by  the  king  and  queen. 

Meantime,  another  Russian  expedition,  com- 
manded by  Stephen  Burrough,  had  been  sent  out  by 
the  same  company,  in  which  the  '  goode  olde  gentle- 


"t.:,.:l, 


20 


EARLIEST  ARCTIC  VOYAGES. 


1 1 


man,  Master  Cabote,'  took  such  interest,  that  beibre 
they  set  out  he  gave  a  great  banquet,  at  which,  'for 
very  joy  that  he  had  to  see  the  towardness  of  their 
discovery,  he  entered  into  the  dance  himselfe 
amongst  the  rest  of  the  young  and  lusty  company. 
Burrough,  however,  made  no  very  particular 
addition  to  the  knowledge  then  possessed  of  those 
northern  coasts. 


~i","«!.  !■; 


est,  that  before 
,  at  which, '  for 
xdness  of  their 
lauce  hitnselfe 
lusty  company.' 
very  particular 
sessed  of  those 


21 


CHAPTER  II. 

SIR  MARTIN  FR0BI8HER  AND  HIS  SUCCESSORS. 

We  have  come  now  to  the  reign  of  Queen  Elizabeth, 
a  reign  so  rich  in  great  characters  that  it  is  not  sur- 
prising that  amongst  the  list  we  find  several  who 
have  distinguished  themselves  as  naval  adventurers, 
and  as  adventurers  in  those  parts  of  the  ocean  which 
come  within  our  province.  First,  we  have  Martin 
Frobishef,  a  name  generally  known,  perhaps,  chiefly 
in  connexion  with  the  defeat  of  the  Spanish  Armada; 
and  yet  he  was  in  his  day  a  well-known  man  long 
before  his  share  in  that  great  event  gained  him  the 
honour  of  knighthood.  ^ 

Very  early  in  life  he  had  set  his  beart  on  the 
same  design  which  had  so  much  occupied  the  mind 
of  Sebastian  Cabot,  namely,  the  discovery  of  the 
North-west  Passage;  and  so  convinced  was  he  of 
the  importance  and  practicability  of  the  scheme,  that 
for  fifteen  long  years  he  went  about  agitating  the 
subject  before  he  succeeded  in  gaining  a  hearing. 

But  fame  was  his  object;  and  as  he  conceived 
that  •  no  other  great  thing  remained  to  be  done  in 
the  world,'  and  that,  therefore,  this  was  the  only 
road  to  it,  he  persevered,  until  at  length,  in  1576, 


mmm 


22 


SIB  MARTIN  FB0BI8HEB. 


it! 


Ambrose  Dudley,  earl  of  Warwick,  took  up  his  cause, 
and  he  was  enabled  to  equip  three  vessels  of  35,  30, 
and  10  tons  respectively,  with  which  he  sailed  down 
the  Thames,  the  Queen  standing  at  her  window  at 
Greenwich  as  he  passed,  and  waving  her  hand  as  a 
pa'-ting  greeting;  while  a  gentleman  despatched  by 
her  went  on  board  to  wish  them '  happie  succesbb,'  and 
to  •  make  known  her  goode  likings  of  their  doings.' 

The  voyage  was  tolerably  prosperous;  and  in 
July  the  vessels  arrived  at  what  Frobisher  took  for 
•the  yriezland  of  Zeno,'— an  imaginary  country  on 
which  that  old  Venetian  traveller  is  said  to  have 
been  wrecked,  but  which  really  appears  to  have  been 
the  southern  coast  of  Greenland.     They  tried  to 
land,  but  a  violent  storo-  arose,  in  which  the  pin- 
nace, with  her  crew  of  four,  was  'ost ;  and  then  the 
crew  of  the  'Gabriel,'   'mistrusting  the    matter, 
privily    conveyed   themselves   away,'  and   reached 
England  safely  soon  after. 

But  Frobishev's  courage  still  kept  up.  When 
otL.rs  had  been  faint-hearted  during  the  violence  of 
the  late  tempest  he  had  distinguished  himself  by  his 
calmness,  and  encouraged  them  by  his  quiet  self- 
possession  and  presence  of  mind ;  and  now  that  his 
own  vessel  was  left  t<j  battle  alone  with  the  fury  of 
•  the  elements,  and  often  in  danger  of  being  crushed 
between  the  enormous  masses  of  floating  ice,  he  still 
bravely  determined  to  persevere. 

Fmding  it  impossible  to  land  on  the  Greenland 
coast,  he  turned  southwards,  and  after  many  days 
reached  what  seems  to  have  been  the  dreary  shores 


k  up  his  cause, 
Bsels  of  35,  30, 
he  sailed  down 
her  window  at 
;  her  hand  as  a 

despatched  by 
ie  succesbb,'  and 
their  doings.' 
lerouB ;  and  in 
bisher  took  for 
lary  country  on 
is  said  to  have 
irs  to  have  been 

They  tried  to 
which  the  pin- 
;;  and  then  the 
ig  the  matter, 
ff    and   reached 

ept  up.  When 
I  the  violence  of 
d  himself  by  his 
•  his  quiet  self- 
nd  now  that  his 
with  the  fury  of 
)f  being  crushed 
iting  ice,  he  still 

>n  the  Greenland 
after  many  days 
;he  dreary  shores 


ESQUIMAUX. 


23 


of  Labrador.  There,  the  vessel  becoming  shut  in  on 
the  outside  by  an  impenetrable  barrier  of  ice,  at 
length  entered  a  strait  to  Which  Frobisher  gave  his 
own  name.  Along  the  banks  of  this  strait  they  soon 
perceived  some  strange  beings  whom,  at  first  sight, 
they  took  for  porpoises,  but  who  turned  out  to  be 


Baqulmaux  with  their  Kivjuki. 

Esquimaux,  in  their  kajaks,  or  boats;  and  they 
hastened  to  make  acquaintance  with  them. 

No  doubt  these  people  were,  in  all  respects, 
much  the  same  as  their  descendants  of  the  present 
day.  '  Salvage  people,'  he  described  them,  •  like  to 
Tartars,  having  long  black  hair,  broad  faces,  and 
flatte  noses;  and  the  women  being  marked  on  the 
face  with  blewe  streekes  downe  the  cheekes  and 


I 


jl 


24 


Bin  MARTIN  FROBISIIKR. 


round  the  cyci,'  and  wearing  '  bootPH  made  of  wftl 
■kinuea,  in  shape  somewhat  resembling  the  shallop? 

of  Spain.' 

But  the  loss  of  a  Iwat's  crew  of  five  men  soon  cut 
■hort  any  attempts  at  a  nearer  acquaintance  with 
these  people;  for  when  'they  had  often  in  vain 
called  them  back  by  the  soimd  of  trumpeta  and  the 
firing  off  of  falconets,'  I'robisher,  taking  it  for  cer- 
tain that  some  wrong  had  been  done  them  by  the 
natives,  in  revenge  enticed  one  of  them  to  the  side 
of  the  ship  by  the  tinkling  of  a  bell,  and  then  •  pluckt 
him  up,  boat  and  all ;'  and,  with  him  on  board,  set 
■ail  for  England,  the  poor  fellow,  in  his  rage  and 
despair,  biting  his  own  tongue  in  half  by  the  way. 

At  home  the  captain  was  well  received,  and 
treated  as  a  person  who  had  done  great  things,  not- 
withstanding that  he  had  failed  in  the  main  object 
of  his  voyage ;  but  It  wm  a  little  accidental  circum- 
stance that  turned  the  nation'*  hearty  welcome  into 
a  perfect  frenzy  of  enthusiMin,  and  made  him  the 
lion  of  his  day. 

Most  of  his  party  had  brought  some  little  me- 
mento of  the  land  from  whence  they  had  come— 
some  flowers,  some  grass,  or  stones ;  and  Frobisher 
had  taken  possession  of  one  of  these  stones,  in  order 
that  he  might  have  something  to  show  hit.  "  ands. 
It  WM  black,  and  remarkably  weighty ;  and  when  one 
of  his  acquaintance  asked  for  a  piece  of  it,  he 
willingly  bestowed  it  on  htr.  By  some  accident 
this  piece  of  black  stone  got  thrown  into  a  fire, 
where  it  burned  for  some  time,  and  when  taken  out 


11: 


Mtnia 


THK  QOLifKN  BUDDI.E. 


25 


I  mndo  of  «•»! 
)g  tho  shallop? 

i  men  Boon  cut 
iaintance  with 

often  in  vain 
inipetfl  and  the 
:ing  it  for  eer- 
ie them  by  the 
lem  to  the  Bide 
id  then  •  pluckt 
n  on  board,  Bet 
a  his  rage  and 
F  by  the  way. 

received,  and 
?at  things,  not- 
he  main  object 
idental  circum- 
;y  welcome  into 

made  him  the 

Bome  little  me- 
ey  had  come — 

and  Frobisher 
stones,  in  order 
how  hiii  "  "3ndB. 
r ;  and  when  one 
piece  of  it,  he 

some  accident 

wn   into  a  fire, 

when  taken  out 


ftnd  •  (luenched  in  a  little  vinegar,  it  gliBt.neil  with  a 
bright  nmr.|U.«HHet  of  guide.'  hiHtuntly  curiosity  wuh 
awakened  about  it.  and  when  some  gold-fineri  of 
London,  to  whom  it  was  shown,  declared  Jiat  the 
ore  conlaiiHHl  much  gold,  m<m  immtdiatrly  thought 
that  a  gol.lon  land  had  been  discovered,  and  tliat 
hejips  of  treiwure  would  Hoon  be  pouring  into  the 

country.  „ 

Some  offered  immediately  to  accompany  l-ro- 
bisher  back  to  search  for  more,  while  many  others 
went  privately  to  the  queen  to  seek  for  the  privilege 
of  holding  the  new  land  on  lease. 

She,  too,  shared  in  the  excitement,  md  warmly 
entered  into  the  matter,  directing  tliat  another 
voyage  should  immediately  be  made,  and  giving 
«  her  loving  friend,  Martin  Furbisher,'  very  full 
directions  for  his  guidance,  some  of  which  are 
extraordinary  enough.  .    x      t 

Taking  it  for  granted  that  he  would  again  touch 
at  ^hi8  '  Friezland  of  Zeno,'  she  desired  him  to  take 
with  him  on  his  '  viage'  certain  condemned  persons, 
whom  he  was  to  land  on  that  shore,  with  what  food 
and  weapons  he  could  conven'^ntly  spare,  and  there 
leave  them,  duly  instructed  •  to  conduct  themselves 
well,  and  so    as    to    gain    the    good-wiU  of   the 

natives.'  /._.•!» 

A  cheap  way  this  of  dlsposmg  of  crimmalsl 

However,  it  is  fair  to  say  that,  if  possible,  they  were 

to  speak  with  them  on  their  return. 

A  few  of  the  natives  also  were  to  be  brought 

home,  to  serve  as  specimens;  and  that  their  consent 


fi'^i: 


■''i1 


r 


26 


SIR  MARTIN  FROBISHER. 


V 


'if 


.1 


was  not  to  be  asked  we  gather  from  the  caution,  that 
*  as  they  were  never  to  return,  and  it  was  desirable 
to  conciliate  the  natives,'  he  must  *be  careful  how 
and  where  he  took  them.' 

Frobisher  himself 
seems  to  have  been 
caught  by  the  golden 
vision,     and    either 
turned    by   it  from 
his  original  design, 
or  else  he  felt  himself 
obliged  to  yield   to 
circumstances.     The 
next  voyage  appears 
to  have  been  entirely 
devoted  to  collecting 
the  supposed  golden 
ore,  which  was  found 
chiefly  on  a  little  is- 
land named  by  them 
the  •  Countess  of  War- 
wick's Isle.'      They 
took  back  with  them 
about  200  tons  of  the 
mineral,    and    were 
rapturously  received 
on  their  return. 
The  queen,  delighted  to  find  that  *  the  matter 
of  the  gold  ore  had  appearance,  and  made  show 
of  great  riches  and  profit,  and,'  as  she  said,  though, 
we  see  not  for  what  reason, '  that  the  hope  of  the 


■«av.^  — 


An  Esquimaux  Youth. 


..  ■;  s* .- -,:»A.t.-4T-y:^  V  ■ '.fW'-^  ••i^ri;^ 


:;;£«wu-^  ■'i^tM«>*"ir^**i«*!.-^.^«*te*--- 


[SHER. 

'om  the  caution,  that 
and  it  was  desirable 
mat  *be  careful  how 

Frobisher  himself 
seems  to  have  been 
caught  by  the  golden 
vision,     and    either 
turned    by   it  from 
his  original  design, 
or  else  he  felt  himself 
obliged  to  yield  to 
circumstances.     The 
next  voyage  appears 
to  have  been  entirely 
devoted  to  collecting 
the  supposed  golden 
ore,  which  was  found 
chiefly  on  a  little  is- 
land named  by  them 
the '  Countess  of  War- 
wick's Isle.'     They 
took  back  with  them 
about  200  tons  of  the 
mineral,   and    were 
rapturously  received 
on  their  return. 
Sud  that  <  the  matter 
nee,  and  made  show 
[,'  as  she  said,  though, 
that  the  hope  of  the 


HIS  SECX>ND  VOYAGE. 

passage  to  Cathaia  by  this  last  voyage  greatly 
increased,'  gave  the  name  of  '  Meta  Incognita'  to  the 
newly-discovered  country,  and  determined  to  colo- 
nise it.  ■  J         J     11. 

A  hundred  persons  of  various  tradei  and  callings 
were  appointed  as  the  first  settlers,  and  fifteen 
vessels  were  prepared  to  carry  them  across  the 
ocean,  Frobisher  being  made  commander-in-chief  of 
the  expedition. 

Of  these,  twelve  ships  were  to  return  laden  with 
the  ore,  and  the  other  three  were  to  remaiu  with  the 
colonists.     And  in  a  few  weeks  they  rsachec?  their 
destination,    though    only    after    passing    tarough 
fearful  dangers  and  distresses.     One  vessel,  indeed, 
which  carried  a  large  wooden  house,'  intended  for  the 
immediate  occupation  of  the   colonists,  had  been 
crushed  between  the  icebergs,  and  had  immediately 
foundered ;  and  another  had,  under  cover  of  night 
or  of  one  of  the  fogs,  turned  her  helm  and  sailed 
for  England ;  but  th.  rest  of  the  fleet  continued  to 
knock  about  in  the  midst  of  *  incredible  paine  and 
periU,'  until  a  fresh  breeze  sprang  up,  and,  driving 
the  ice  before  it,  left  them  an  open  sea  through 

which  to  sail. 

Then  their  spirits  revived,  and,  nothing  daunted, 
they  set  to  work  to  repair  the  damage  which  they 
had  sustained ;  and  resolving,  as  they  expressed  it, 
to  push  on  'towards  the  inward,'  they  soon  had 
sight  of  land,  which  they  supposed  to  be  some 
country  on  the  north-east  of  Frobisher  s  Strait. 

But  new  troubles  awaited  them ;  for  in  a  short 


iiiiiMfcuiwriMmrnmniiMii 


fll 


'"H 


SIR  MARTIN  FROBISHER. 


time  the  whole  fleet  was  enveloped  in  thick  mists 
and  fogs,  and  the  ships,  becoming  separated  one 
from  another,  again  beat  about  at  random,  amidst 
the  horrible  noise  of  the  ice  grinding  and  crushing 
against  the  chips'  sides,  not  knowing  where  they 
were,  or  in  what  direction  they  were  moving. 

When  at  length  the  sky  became  clearer,  and 
some  communication  could  be  held  between  the 
vessels,  the  pilot  declared  that  the  strait  was  one 
which  he  had  never  seen  before ;  but  Frobisher, 
though  from  the  first  he  had  probably  known  this, 
to  still  their  minds  insisted  that  they  *  were  in  their 
right  course  and  knowen  straits.' 

It  was,  as  is  now  believed,  Hudson's  Straits — an 
opening,  as  he  saw,  in  the  right  direction.  And  it 
is  reported  that  he  afterwards  said,  that '  if  it  had  not 
been  for  the  charge  and  care  he  had  of  the  freighted 
ships,  he  both  could  and  would  have  gone  through 
to  the  South  Sea,  called  Mar  del  Sur,  and  dissolved 
the  long  doubt  of  the  passage  which  we  seek  to  find 
to  the  rich  country  of  Cathaia' — a  large  way  of 
talking,  which  did  very  well  for  a  time,  when  men 
were  running  mad  after  the  honour  and  glory  of 
westward  adventure,  but  which  would  hardly  increase 
our  confidence  in  a  naval  commander  in  these  more 
cautious  times. 

To  found  this  colony,  however,  was  now  the  first 
object,  and  many  attempts  to  land  were  made ;  but 
neither  could  they  succeed  in  this  nor  in  establishing 
friendly  relations  with  the  natives;  so  at  length 
Frobisher  proposed  that  they  should  give  up  that 


HIS  ENTEj  "'RISE  ABANDONED. 


29 


in  thick  mists 

separated  one 

random,  amidst 

g  and  crushing 

Dg  where  they 

re  moving. 

ke  clearer,  and 

d  between  the 

strait  was  one 

but  Frobisher, 

bly  known  this, 

J  '  were  in  their 

m's  Straits — an 
ection.  And  it 
lat '  if  it  had  not 
of  the  freighted 
e  gone  through 
r,  and  dissolved 
we  seek  to  find 
a  large  way  of 
time,  when  men 
ir  and  glory  of 
I  hardly  increase 
r  in  these  more 

ras  now  the  first 
were  made ;  but 
r  in  establishing 
;  so  at  length 
Id  give  up  that 


design  and  attempt  some  discovery :  but  the  com- 
manders of  the  other  vessels  objected ;  and,  as  the 
provisions  were  running  short  in  consequence  of  their 
losses  and  disasters,  it  was  eventually  concluded  to 
abandon  the  enterprise  and  return  home.  This 
was  an  inglorious  ending  to  an  expedition  prepared 
at  such  great  cost,  and  sent  out  with  such  high 
expectations,  aad  one  which  caused  much  disappoint- 
ment in  the  country. 

Frobisher,  however,  does  not  seen  to  have 
relinquished  his  scheme;  and  although  for  a  time 
he  fell  into  neglect,  we  read  that  a  fourth  expedition 
was  proposed  by  him,  and  that  it  was  approved  by 
the  great  Sir  Francis  Drake  :  but  it  does  not  appear 
ever  to  have  been  carried  out. 

Other  ezciting  events,  or  plans,  no  doubt  turned 
the  current  of  public  attention ;  yet  still  men  lived 
under  the  impression  that  a  golden  land  existed  in 
the  northern  parts  of  the  New  World,  if  only  its 
treasures  could  be  obtained.  Nor  was  it  until  some 
time  afterwards  that  the  supposed  golden  ore  was 
found  to  be  only  a  micaceous  sand;  and  so  the 
dazzling  vision  was  altogether  dissipated. 

But  as  the  thirst  for  gold,  and  the  sordid  desire 
for  amassing  wealth,  had  not  been  the  motives  which 
originated  the  first  enterprise  of  Frobisher,  so  neither 
did  the  spirit  of  adventure  and  the  romantic  desire 
for  fame  which  he  had  helped  to  nourish  in  his 
countrymen,  die  out  with  his  failure.  Englishmen 
are  not  easily  daunted  in  any  undertaking  on  which 
they  have  set  their  minds :  and  a  happy  thing  it  no 


I'i  i;!v'.  < 


M 


1 


30 


SIR  HUMPHREY  GILBERT. 


doubt  was  for  our  country  that  no  such  treasures 
fell  to  her  lot,  as  had  both  sharpened  and  debased 
the  Spanish  and  Portuguese  appetites. 

Trained,  for  the  most  part,  in  that  spirit  of 
intolerance  which  was  even  at  that  very  time  causing 
rivers  oif  blood  to  flow,  both  in  the  Spanish  Peninsula 
and  in  the  Netherlands,  as  well  as  in  the  pomp  and 
luxury  of  a  proud  and  prosperous  country,  the  sons 
of  Spain  and  Portugal  went  out  with  two  unworthy 
aims — to  amass  wealth,  and  to  force  men  to  become 
Christians,  either  by  fair  means  or  by  foul.  No 
wonder,  then,  that  the  story  of  Spanish  colonisation 
is  a  dark  one. 

But  our  English  adventurers  of  the  same  times 
were  men  of  a  different  stamp. 

Without  holding  any  very  strict  notions  of  the 
meaning  of  the  words  mine  and  thine,  or  being 
actuated  by  any  very  unselfish  motives  in  these 
visions  of  discovery,  they  were  yet,  for  the  most 
part,  gallant  English  gentlemen,  who,  abhorring 
Spanish  cruelty  and  tyranny,  were  burning  with  the 
desire  for  fame,  and  full  of  patriotic  notions  about 
adding  to  the  country's  glory. 

There  were  many  such  in  Elizabeth's  reign,  and 
"lore  especially  among  the  Devonshire  gentry.  We 
could  not  find  %  better  specimen  of  the  class  than 
that  which  is  furnished  by  our  next  adventurer.  Sir 
Humphrey  Gilbert,  a  native  of  Compton  in  Devon- 
shire, and  half-brother  to  Sir  Walter  Raleigh. 

Full  of  talent,  as  well  as  of  romance,  his  writings 
on  the  subject  of  north-west  discovery  axe  said  to 


,  -.'l^?5llBW5*^^Stfs»-'  ■ 


P. 

such  treasures 
Bd  and  debased 

that  spirit  of 
ry  time  causing 
anish  Peninsula 
1  the  pomp  and 
untry,  the  sons 
1  two  unworthy 
I  men  to  become 
r  by  foul.  No 
dsh  colonisation 

the  same  times 

t  notions  of  the 
thine,  or  being 
jotives  in  these 
t,  for  the  most 
who,  abhorring 
)urning  with  the 
ic  notions  about 

jeth's  reign,  and 
ire  gentry.  We 
>f  the  class  than 
;  adventurer,  Sir 
ipton  in  Devon- 
r  Raleigh, 
mce,  his  writingis 
very  axe  said  to 


HIS  UNFORTUNATE  VOYAGE. 


31 


have  exercised  great  influence  on  the  mind  of 
Frobisher  ;  and  it  is  stated  that  he  first  formed  the 
plan  of  British  colonisation  iii  .America.  His  brothers 
Adrian  and  Sir  Waltei  Raleigh  also  deeply  sym- 
pathised in  his  views— the  former  being,  indeed, 
the  head  of  a  company  called  •  The  Colleagues  of 
the  Fellowship  for  the  discovery  of  the  North-west 
Passage,'  and  the  latter  accompanying  him  on  one 
of  his  voyages. 

Sir    Humphrey  Gilbert   obtained  from   Queen 
Elizabeth  the  gift  for  ever  of  all  the  heathen  and 
barbarous  countries  which  he  might  discover,  with 
absolute  authority  therein,  on  the  condition  of  doing 
homage  to  the  sovereign — who  assumed  this  power  of 
disposing  of  other  people's  property — and  of  paying 
a  fifth  of  the  revenues  to  the  crown.     And  thinking, 
no  doubt,  that  he  was  going  to   do  the  benighted 
natives  a  great  kindness  by  thus  taking  possession 
of  their  fatherland,  Sir  Humphrey  set  sa.:      'h  four 
vessels,  the  '  Swallow,'  the  *  Delight,'  his  own  ship 
the  '  Jolden  Hind,'  and  the  'Squirrel.'     But  twice 
had  he  to  turn  back  on  account  of  bad  weather 
and  the  faint-heartedness  of  his  crew ;  and  as  soon 
as  they  reached  Newfoundland  the  *  Swallow '  had  to 
be  sent  home,  with  some  of  the  crew  who  had  fallen 
sick,  while  the  « Delight,'  a  fine  large  vessel,  struck 
on  a  rock  and  went  to  pieces. 

So  Sir  Humphrey  was  left  with  the  two  smaller 
vessels,  and  on  board  the  'Sqmrrel'  he  hoisted  his 
flag.  After  taking  a  formal  possession  of  Newfound- 
land, and  parcelling  out  the  land  (although,  as  we 


mmmmmmi^ 


>i 


HUMPHREY  GILBERT. 

know,  he  was  by  no  means  its  discoverer),  he  started 
on  a  voyage  to  the  south,  where,  he  hoped  to  find 
silver  and  gold.  However,  having  had  great  lodses, 
the  crew  soon  saw  that  the  choice  lay  between  starva- 
tion and  return ;  so  that  poor  Sir  Humphrey,  whose 
own  courage  was  equal  to  any  emergency,  was  obliged 
to  yield  nnd  abandon  the  enterprise. 

Leaving  these  coasts,  on  which  the  French  and 
Spaniards  had  long  had  extensive  cod-fisheries,  they 
turned  their  helms  homeward  in  bitter  di8api)oint- 
ment.  But  very  soon  they  were  once  more  overtaken 
by  a  violent  storm ;  and  the  little  •  Squirrel'  was  no- 
ticed by  its  companion  to  be  labouring  fearfully 
amidst  the  waves ;  while  its  gallant  commander  stood 
on  the  deck  with  a  book  iu  his  hfud,  and  cried  to 
the  other  vessel  as  she  passed  that  'they  were  as 
near  to  heaven  by  sea  as  by  land.'  Dtrkness  soon 
came  on,  and  nothing  more  waa  seen  for  hours  of  the 
tiny  bark  but  one  little  li^ht,  which  rose  and  fell 
with  the  waves.  About  midnight  that  disappeared ; 
and  the  crippled  'Golden  Hind'  had  to  return  alone 
with  its  dismal  tale. 

And  yet,  only  two  years  later,  John  Davis  of 
Landridge,  another  Devonshire  man,  was  found  wil- 
ling, at  the  bidding  of  '  divers  worshipful  merchants 
of  London  and  the  West  country,'  to  take  the 
command  of  two  vessclo — the  'Sunshine'  and  the 
*  Moonshine' — and  with  them  to  sail  again  in 
search  of  the  passage  to  Cathay. 

The  ships  left  Dartmouth  in  June,  1585 ;  and  in 
six  weeks  after  found  themselves  among  the  ice  of 


%' 


Mwwimifflw^ 


T. 

erer),  he  started 
e  hoped  to  find 
had  great  lodsee, 
■  between  starva- 
!umphrey,  whose 
jncy,  was  obliged 

the  French  and 
(d-fisheries,  they 
itter  disappoint- 
5  more  overtaken 
Squirrel'  was  no- 
louring  fearfully 
iommander  stood 
nd,  and  cried  to 
t  *they  were  as 
D&rkness  soon 
I  for  hours  of  the 
ch  rose  and  fell 
iiat  disappeared; 
d  to  return  alone 

',  John  Davis  of 
1,  was  found  wil- 
tiipful  merchants 
y,'  to  take  the 
inshine'  and  the 
)   sail    again  in 

ne,  1585 ;  and  in 
iD^ong  the  ice  of 


JOHN  DAVIS. 


Greenland,  and  enveloped  in  a  dense  fog.  At  first, 
therefore,  they  could  not  understand  what  it  was  that 
caused  such  a  mighty  roaring  as  that  which  met 
their  ears,  but  soon  ascertained  that  it  was  tlie 
grinding  together  of  the  huge  masses  of  ice.  They 
came  in  view  of  the  land  next  day,  which  Davis 
called  the  most  '  dreary  that  it  is  possible  to  con- 
ceive;'  adding,  that  *  the  lothsome  view  of  the  shore, 
and  the  irksome  noyse  of  the  yce,  was  such,  that  it 
bred  strange  conceits'  among  them :  '  so  that  they 
eirpposed  the  place  to  be  wast,  and  void  of  any  sen- 
sible or  vegitalole  creatures ;  whereupon  he  called  the 
same  "  Desolation." ' 

However,  after  a  little  time  they  sailed  westward, 
and  soon  got  out  of  the  ice,  and  among  '  many  greene 
and  pleasant  isles,  bordering  on  the  shore,'  where  they 
got  into  a  very  friendly  intercourse  with  the  natives, 
and  began  to  barter  for  furs. 

But  a  favourable  wind  soon  caused  him  to  abandon 
this,  and  sail  north-west  across  the  strait  which  still 
bears  his  name.  In  great  spirits  they  rounded  a 
cape,  which  he  called  '  the  Cape  of  God's  Mercy ;' 
thinking  that  he  had  actually  found  the  passage 
which  he  sought ;  and  sailed  on  in  water,  which  was 
of  *  the  very  colour,  natuje,  and  quality  of  the  main 
ocean,'  for  about  eighty  leagues,  without  meeting 
with  any  ice,  until  they  came  to  a  cluster  of  islands. 
Then,  strange  to  say,  when  again  fogs  and  storms 
came  on,  they  quietly  abandoned  the  enterprise ;  and 
thinking  to  prosecute  it  at  some  future  day,  they  re- 
turned homewards  very  cheerily. 


m 
till 
-ill 


84 


JOHN  DAVIS. 


Twice  again  Davis  sailed  from  Dartmouth,  in 
1586  and  1587,  and  each  time  he  visited  the  same 
coasts,  discovered  something  more,  and  got  a  little 
further  northward— further,  indeed,  than  any  pre- 
vious navigator  had  been ;  but  the  remonstrances  of 
his  crew  and  the  constant  fear  of  the  ice  prevented 
him  from  remaining  out  long  at  a    ime. 

Men  thought  not  then  of  waiting  in  these  north- 
ern regions  year  after  year  until  they  had  accom- 
plished their  purpose;  but  before  we  charge  them 
with  faintheartedness,  we  must  remember  that  each 
one  made  the  matter  easier  for  him  who  came  after, 
and  that  the  arts  of  preserving  food  to  keep  for  years, 
and  of  protecting  vessels  from  those  shocks  of  the 
icebergs,  which  might  crush  them  at  any  moment, 
— were  then  unknown. 

The  naval  spirit  of  England  was  growing  then ; 
and  it  has  progressed  even  to  the  present  times. 

However,  Davis  had  been  three  times  out  with- 
out accomplishing  his   task;   and,  like  his  prede- 
cessors, he  had  thereby  lost  credit.     The  talk  of 
invasion  by  the  Spanish  Armada  also  stopped  the 
design  for  a  few  years;  but  in  1602,  the  last  year 
of  our  great  Queen's  reign,  George  Waymouth  was 
sent  out  by  a  merchant  company,  and  bound  not  to 
return  under  one  year.      Nothing  particular  was, 
however,  added  to  the  previous  knowledge  by  his 
voyage,  except  that,  as  Fox,  one  of  his  successors,  of 
whom  we  shall  soon  have  to  speak,  says, '  He  and 
Davis,  probably,  lighted  Hudson  into  hie  Straits.' 
Waymouth's  crew  mutinied,  and  turned  the  helm 


w«w«iBWTiMMiii»Miiiirawitmi»tii»*it*«waih^  <ttiii,it«!iawHW8i«*-| 


I  Dartmouth,  in 
visited  the  same 
and  got  a  little 
,,  than  any  pre- 
■emonstrances  of 
le  ice  prevented  • 
I  'ime. 

5  in  these  north- 
hey  had  accom- 
we  charge  them 
ember  that  each 

who  came  after, 
to  keep  for  years, 
se  shocks  of  the 

at  any  moment, 

ks  growing  then; 
resent  times. 
)  times  out  with- 
,  like  his  prede- 
it.     The  talk  of 
also  stopped  the 
602,  the  last  year 
e  Waymouth  was 
and  bound  not  to 
r  particular  was, 
knowledge  by  his 
F  his  successors,  of 
ik,  says,  *  He  and 
ito  hie  Straits.' 
id  turned  the  helm 


HENRY  HUDSON. 

homewards  while  he  slept,  de<'lining  to  go  further 
north  than  latitude  60° ;  and  he  does  not  himself 
appear  to  have  been  much  of  a  seaman. 

It  was  just  at  this  time,  when  some  of  the  prin- 
cipal nations  of  Europe  were  engaged  in  war,  that 
the  Danes  took  up  the  idea  of  the  North-west  Pas- 
sage, which  had  so  long  been  left  to  England.  Yet 
the  King  of  D*^nmark  did  not,  in  fitting  out  his  ex- 
pedition, pi  .ossedly  aim  at  that  object.  Osten- 
sibly he  h  ight  to  explore  the  coast  of  Greenland, 
where  he  still  believed  that  not  only  gold,  but  silver 
also,  was  to  be  found.  Singularly  enough,  the  king 
employed  iu  this  service  chiefly  Englishmen;  and 
although  the  chief  command  was  given  to  Admiral 
Lindenau,  yet  the  names  of  Hall  and  Knight,  the 
pilot  and  one  of  his  companions,  became  much 
more  distinguished  than  that  of  their  chief. 

That  of  Henry  Hudson,  however,  who,  in  1607, 
was  sent  out  by  the  Muscovy  Company  to  endeavour 
to  find  a  passage  across  the  Pole  itself,  throws  theirs 
completely  into  the  shade. 

He  was  a  man  remarkable,  not  only  for  his  dis- 
covery of  the  straits  and  bay  which  bear  his  name, 
but  for  his  great  personal  qualifications  for  the  work 
which 'he  had  undertaken;  so  that,  had  he  lived  in 
modem  times,  he  would,  perhaps,  have  distinguished 
himself  even  among  those  who  have  recently  gained 
their  laurels  in  those  seas.  But  his  end  was  even  more 
melancholy  than  those  of  some  of  his  predecessors. 
Four  times  did  he  sail  from  our  shores  on  the  old 
errand;  twice  directly  north,  and  twice  nominally 


Ml^ 


86 


HENRY  HUDSON. 


in  a  north-easterly  direction,  though,  as  the  bent 
of  his  iniuil  was  for  north-westerly  diBcovery,  a  little 
thing  caused  him  to  nlt«r  his  course. 

In  his  first  voyage  he  reached  even  as  tar  as  81 
north,  and  coasted  along  Spitzbergen.  Then,  his 
provisions  failing,  he  was  obliged  to  return  home. 
In  his  second,  the  ice  prevented  his  passage  further 
than  Nova  Zembla  and  latitude  75°.  It  was  on 
this  occasion  that  he  found  the  sea  so  full  of  seals, 
morses,  and  whales,  that  he  hoped  he  should  by 
means  of  them  pay  the  expenses  of  his  voyage.  But 
he  was  disappointed  in  every  way,  and,  •  void  of  hope 
of  a  north-east  passage,'  he  made  sail  for  England. 

During  this  voyage  some  of  the  crew  declared 
that  they  had  seen  a  mermaid ;  but,  unfortunately, 
she  did  not  favour  them  with  her  company  long 
enough  for  their  companions  to  confirm  the  state- 
ment. 

After  these  two  voyages  Hudson  took  service  in 
the  Dutch  East  India  Company,  and  sailed  in  the 
direction  which  he  preferred. 

A  Moravian  missionary  to  the  Indians  of  Penn- 
sylvania has  left  us  an  account  of  his  visit  to  those 
parts;  received,  as  he  tells  ub,  from  the  Indians 
themselves. 

It  was  before  the  natives  knew  anything  of  white 
men  that  some  of  them  once  saw  a  large  object 
floating  in  the  sea,  which  some  thought  to  be  an 
enormous  house,  and  others,  an  enormous  animal. 

At  length  they  concluded  that  it  was  Mannitto, 
the  Supreme  Being,  coming  to  visit  them  in  a  large 


-mmmmmm 


fh,  aa  the  bent 
Bcovery,  a  little 

ren  an  tar  as  81 
jen.     Then,  his 

0  return  borne. 
paBsage  further 
i°.  It  waa  on 
80  full  of  seals, 

he  should  by 
ia  voyage.  But 
id,  *  void  of  hope 

1  for  England. 

e  crew  declared 

it,  unfortunately, 

company  long 

infirm  the  state- 

Q  took  service  in 
nd  sailed  in  the 

[ndians  of  Penn- 
his  visit  to  those 
rom  the  Indians 

Miything  of  white 
V  a  large  object 
bought  to  be  an 
irmous  animal. 
:  it  was  Mannitto, 
t  them  in  a  large 


LABOE  aSiAL,  OH  8EA-BEA!i. 


J: 


1 


"itJMwiiiKiaiatwgBw^^ 


MtMMMMit 


tMHIiMnHiifcl 


HIH  RECEPTION  HY  THE  INDIANS. 

canoe,  and  un  uHnembly  wiw  held  an  to  tho  manner 
of  receiving  him.  Conjurern  wero  net  to  work,  n 
feast  prepared,  and  a  dance  arranged. 

Soon  the  great  canoe  Btopped,  and  a  little  one, 
in  which  was,  an  they  thought,  the  great  Mannitto, 
put  off  for  the  shore ;  where  ho  was  received  by  a 
council  of  chiefs,  who,  terrified  as  they  were,  dared 
not  depart  for  fear  of  offending  the  deity. 

His  white  skin  and  red  dress  astonished  them 
beyond  description;  and  he  spoke  to  them  in  a 
strange  language. 

After  a  while  a  hockhack,  or  bottle,  and  a  cup, 
were    brought    to    him    by    his    men,    and,    after 
drinking    himself,  he   filled  the  glass   again,   and 
handed  it  round  to  the  chiefs.      Only  one,  bow- 
ever,   dared   to   drink;    and  he,  lest  the  Mannitto 
should    be    offended,  took    it   and    drank,   saymg 
that  it  was  better  for  one  man  to  die  than   th;. 
the    whole    nation    should    be    destroyed    by    the 
angiy  god.     No  sooner  had  he  drank  than  he  fell 
down  apparently  dead,  and  was  mourned  as  such, 
until  he  jumped  up  and  declared  that  he  had  never 
in  his  life  felt  so  comfortable  and  happy  as  when  in 
this  state ;   on  which  aU  the  company  drank  and 
became  intoxicated.     The  whites  afterwards  brought 
them  from  their  vessel  presents  of  beads,  axes,  hoes, 
stockings,   &c.,  and  left,  saying  that  they   should 
come  back  next  year  with  more,  and  then  ask  for  a 
little  land  on  which  to  raise  herbs.     According  to 
promise  they  came  back,  and  found  the  hoes  hung 
round  the  natives'  necks  as  ornaments,  and  the 


ili 


I* 


'.  **.^>  '•^!^M^k  ^  ^^ii^^^iii^i^MM 


1 


40 


HENRY  HUDSON. 


stockings  used  as  tobacco-pouches :  at  which  they 
laughed  exceedingly,  and  the  good-humoured  people 
joined  in  the  merriment. 

Still  taking  Hudson  for  the  Mannitto,  and  his 
companions  for  inferior  deities,  they  treated  them 
with  all  honour,  and  readily  granted  what  they 
asked,  namely,  as  much  land  as  could  be  compassed  by 
a  bullock's  hide,  though  they  were  rather  astonished 
when  they  found  the  bullock's  hide  cut  into  strips 
and  made  into  '.  thin  rope,  so  that  a  good-sized  niece 
of  ground  was  'O  compassed  by  it. 

The  whites  remained  some  time,  and  in  like 
manner  obtained  so  many  grants  that  the  Indians 
thought  they  would  get  the  whole  land ;  as,  in  fact, 
they  eventually  did. 

Hv  ison  returned  home  again ;  and  in  1610  he 
took  his  fatal  voyage  from  the  Thames. 

Two  gentlemen,  who  were  quits  persuaded  of 
the  existence  of  a  north-west  passage,  fitted  out  the 
•  Discovery,'  and  entrusted  the  command  to  him.  It 
was  then  that  he  found  the  strait  which  bears  his 
name  ;  and  in  spite  of  icy  barriers,  and  murmurings 
among  his  crew,  he  persisted  in  pushing  on  towards 
the  west,  until  he  saw  that  great  bay  before  him 
which  he  concluded  must  be  the  Pacific  Ocean. 

But  winter  was  coming  on ;  and  it  was  absolutely 
necessary  to  look  for  some  milder  spot  in  which  to 
spend  it.  It  is  not  known  exactly  where  they  settled 
down ;  but  in  a  few  days  <'hey  were  all  frozen  in,  with 
little  prospect  before  tl'.em  but  that  of  starvation. 

Hudson,  however,  offered  a  reward  to  whosoever 


■  1i>i'imMlislii^ii^MitM£>m^ri!utfti&^  ■  "J  ►Aj'.'^-iififesifS 


.;    l*«pK^Vf-S;**n(«fev  **l,i  ■  ■ 


iches :  at  which  they 
ood-humoured  people 

le  Mannitto,  and  his 
8,  they  treated  them 
'  granted  what  they 
could  be  compassed  by 
rere  rather  astonished 
i  hide  cut  into  strips 
hat  a  good-sized  niece 
it. 

le  time,  and  in  like 
mts  that  the  Indians 
liole  land ;  as,  in  fact, 

i;ain;  and  in  1610  he 
Thames. 

•e  quito  persuaded  of 
lassage,  fitted  out  the 
command  to  him.  It 
strait  which  bears  his 
riers,  and  murmurings 
in  pushing  on  towards 
great  bay  before  him 
he  Pacific  Ocean. 
;  and  it  was  absolutely 
ilder  spot  in  which  to 
ictly  where  they  settled 
were  all  frozen  in,  with 
;  that  of  starvation. 
a  reward  to  whosoever 


ABANDONED  BY  HIS  CEEW. 


m 


should  find  any  living  thing ;  and,  happily,  at  first    ^ 
they  killed  a  great  many  white  partridges.     When 
these  were  gone  their  sufferings  became  terrible, 
and  they  only  just  held  out  until  the  ice  again  broke 
and  let  them  out. 

And  all  this  time  a  horrid  plot  had  been  brew- 
ing among  them,  instigated  by  a  young  man  named 
Green,  whom  Hudson  had  brought  with  him  from 
England,  in  the  hope  of  rescuing  him  from  the  bad 
courses  into  which  he  had  fallen. 

Hudson  had  on  oce  occasion  spoken  sharply  to 
this  young  man,  for  which  he  had  vowed  a  deadly 
v-ngeance.  Others,  unfortunately,  were  ready  to 
jom  him,  and  the  mutiny  broke  out  just  as  they 
were  making  preparations  for  their  return. 

As  be  was  leaving  his  cabin  one  morning 
Hudson  waa  seized  from  behind  by  some  of  the 
wretches,  and  forced,  with  eight  sick  men,  on  board 
a  small  boat,  with  provisions  only  for  two  days ;  and 
thus  was  he,  who  had  allowed  himself  to  be  regarded 
as  the  Supreme  Being,  left  to  perish  miserably. 

Green  meantime  vowed  never  to  land  in  England 
until  he  had  received  a  promise  of  pardon  ;  but  he 
never  reached  England,  for  on  their  arrival  at  Cape 
Digges  he  and  some  of  the  most  guilty  of  his  com- 
panions went  ashore,  and  in  a  quarrel  with  the 
natives  got  killed. 

The  rest  of  the  mutineers,  after  suffering  dread- 
ful privations,  reached  the  coast  of  Ireland  in  safety  ; 
and,  strange  to  say,  not  only  did  they  escape  punish- 
ment, but  two  of  them,  Bylot  and  Prickett,  were 


y'  * 


itil 


ii.,.«ii»imwiM->iMT-ffi'iiiT-rtr\M^ry'ri,'g 


Jill 


42 


SIR  THOMAS  BUTTON. 


employed  in  the  next  expedition  under  Sir  Tliomas 
Button.  Both,  however,  declared  that  they  had 
acted  under  compulsion  ;  and  as  it  was  difficult  then 
to  fad  men  used  to  these  northern  latitudes,  and 
Bylot  was  an  excellent  pilot,  perhaps  Sir  Thomas 
Button  was  glad  to  make  use  of  him. 

The  latter  was  a  man  of  learning  and  ability ; 
but  he,  too,  was  thwarted  by  the  murmurs  of  his 
crew,  and  did  not  accomplish  much.  Sailing 
direct  to  Digges'  Island,  in  Hudson's  Straits,  he 
encamped  for  the  winter  at  the  mouth  of  a  river, 
which  he  named  Port  Nelson,  and  exerted  himself  to 
divert  the  minds  of  his  men  from  their  hardships  by 
proposing  to  them  questions  in  navigation  and 
geography.  In  April,  when  the  ice  broke  up,  they 
proceeded  northwards  as  far  as  Cape  Comfort,  then 
back  to  Mansell's  Islands  and  home  again,  where 
he  declared  that  he  believed  the  passage  to  exist, 
though  he  had  failed  in  finding  it. 

Nothing  daunted  by  this,  and  one  or  two 
other  similar  discouragements,  the  Merchants'  Com- 
pany again  fitted  out  the  'Discovery'  for  a  new 
Arctic  voyage;  and  here  we  are  introduced  to 
another  of  those  great  names  which  serve  as  land- 
marks in  our  course— r< hat  of  William  Baffin,  the 
discoverer  of  one  of  the  finest  bays  in  the  world. 

In  1612  he  had  made  a  voyage  with  Hall,  one 
of  the  men  who  had  been  employed  in  the  Danish 
expedition;  and  that  voyage  is  remarkable  as  the 
first  on  record  in  which,  by  an  observation  of  the 
heavenly  bodies,  a  method  was  adopted  for  taking 


der  Sir  Thomas 
that  they  had 
as  difficult  then 
I  latitudes,  and 
vpB  Sir  Thomas  i 
m. 

ng  and  ability; 
murmurs  of  his 
nuch.  Sailing 
m's  Straits,  he 
auth  of  a  river, 
certed  himself  to 
eir  hardships  by 
navigation  and 
J  broke  up,  they 
)e  Comfort,  then 
oe  again,  where 
tassage  to  exist, 

• 

id  one  or  two 
Merchants'  Com- 
rery'  for  a  new 
I  introduced  to 
h  serve  as  land- 
liam  Baffin,  the 
n  the  world, 
fe  with  Hall,  one 
1  in  the  Danish 
markable  as  the 
)8ervation  of  the 
opted  for  taking 


WILLIAM  BAFFIN. 


43 


the  longitude  at  sea.  Baffin  had  also  made  a  voyage 
to  Greenland  previous  to  his  employment  by  the 
Company. 

It  was  in  1615  that  the  command  of  the  '  Dis- 
covery' was  given  to  Bylot,  and  Baffin  appointed  as 
his  mate.  Being  far  the  better  educated  of  the 
two,  he  seems  to  have  really  directed  the  course  of 
the  expedition;  and  some  of  his  lunar  observations 
on  this  occasion  were  made  with  so  much  accuracy 
that,  two  centuries  later,  they  called  forth  the  praise 
of  Captain  Parry,  who  always  held  Baffin  in  great 

respect. 

No  very  particular  discovery  is  recorded  as  the 
result  of  this  voyage,  though  it  added  perhaps  a 
good  deal  to  the  general  knowledge  of  those  parts. 
But  next  year  the  same  ship  and  officers  were  again 
sent  out,  and  with  such  confident  anticipation  of 
success  that  they  were  ordered  to  bring  back  a 
Japanese  on  their  return  1 

They  sailed  direct  for  Davis's  Strait,  up  which 
they  continued  in  a  northerly  direction  until  they 
came  to  Cape  Dudley  Digges,  Whale  Sound,  and 
Cary's  Isles,  in  the  very  north  of  what  has  since  been 
called  Baffin's  Bay,  but  which  tbey  supposed,  and  as 
it  now  proves  truly,  to  be  open  sea.  Under  that 
idea  they  were  constantly  trying  to  make  their  way 
westward,  though  fruitlessly  on  account  of  the  ice. 

In  July,  however,  this  began  to  melt  very  fast, 
and  they  continued  coasting  along  to  the  north  till 
they  came  to  an  island  to  which  they  gave  the  name 
of  Hackluyt,  after  Sir  Richard  Hackluyt,  the  first 


iii: '  * 

i!|i!;  ■;■■ 


ill 


■i^^**^K=*f*^^ife!'^*S^.'S#^*s^ 


HHfinwaiMii 


44 


WILLUM  BAFFIN. 


i 


compiler  of  a  volume  of  voyages ;  then  on  to  Smith's 
Sound,  at  the  ex,/ieme  north  of  the  bay ;  and  next 
round  by  the  western  side  to  Jones'  Sound,  to  both 
of  which  they  gave  the  names. 

At  length  they  began  to  suspect  that  they  were 
in  a  great  bay,  and  not  in  the  open  sea  at  all,  and 
their  hope  of  a  passage  became  daily  less  and  less. 
But  in  their  southward  course  they  passed  another 
great  inlet,  Sir  James  Lancaster's  Sound,  little 
thinking  that  it  led  into  an  optjn  strait,  for  it  was 
barred  up  by  ice ;  nor  was  it  until  Parry's  time  that 
this  barrier  was  passed,  and  the  passage  to  the  open 
ocean  this  \say  discovered.  Coasting  along  as  close 
to  the  shore  aa  they  could,  they  now  pursued  their 
way  flown  the  western  side,  until,  arrived  once  again 
in  Davis's  Strait,  they  came  to  Cumberland's  Island, 
where  a  consultation  was  held,  in  which  it  was 
decided  *  that,  having  come  to  an  end  of  their  dis- 
covery,' they  should  cross  '  to  the  coast  of  Greenland, 
to  see  if  they  could  get  some  refreshment  for  their 
mer,' 

Accordingly  they  anchored  in  Cockin  Sound,  so 
named  by  that  Hall  who  had  accompanied  the  Danish 
Admiral  Lindenau,  and  thence,  on  the  1st  of  August, 
they  steered  their  way  home. 

Little  more  is  known  of  the  after-life  of  Baffin, 
except  that  he  joined  in  the  British  attempt  to 
expel  the  Portuguese  from  the  Persian  Gulf,  and 
that  at  the  siege  of  a  small  fort  near  Ormuz  he  was 
killed. 

In  a  letter  to  one  of  the  gentlemen  who  sent  him 


4-jmmmm 


len  on  to  Smith's 
e  bay ;  and  .next 
j'  Sound,  to  both 

ct  that  they  were 
in  sea  at  all,  and 
ally  less  and  less, 
jy  passed  another 
r's  Sound,   little 

strait,  for  it  was 
Parry's  time  that 
.ssage  to  the  open 
Qg  along  as  close 
)W  pursued  their 
rrived  once  again 
iberknd's  Island, 
in  which   it   was 

end  of  their  dis- 
ast  of  Greenland, 
eshment  for  their 

Cockin  Sound,  so 
tanied  the  Danish 
bhe  1st  of  August, 

,fter-life  of  Baffin, 
ritish  attempt  to 
'ersian  Gulf,  and 
sar  Ormuz  he  was 

men  who  sent  him 


JENS  MUNK. 


45 


out,  Baffin  speaks  of  the  '  worst  being  now  knt)wn 
concerning  the  passage,'  and  declares  that  '  there  is 
no  passage  or  hope  of  a  passage  in  the  north  of 
Davis's  Strait ;'  but  he  dwells  on  the  advantages  of 
the  discoveries  which  had  been  made  thereabouts, 
and  of  the  vast  numbers  of  whales  to  be  caught  in 
those  seas. 

One  effect  of  this  expedition  of  Baffin's  was  natu- 
rally to  damp  the  public  expectation  of  this  grand 
discovery ;  and  it  was  fifteen  years  before  any  other 
attempt  of  importance  was  made  by  Englishmen. 
But  tLe  establishment  of  the  Greenland  Whale 
Fishery,  and  the  formation  of  the  Hudson's  Bay 
Company,  were  two  very  substantial  results  for  the 
commercial  world ;  and  these  soon  began  to  occupy 
the  attention  of  the  country. 

Meantime,  Denmark  again  began  to  take  an 
interest  in  the  subject;  and  in  1619  Christian  IV. 
fitted  out  two  ships,  of  which  he  gave  the  <;ommand 
to  Jens  Munk,  a  very  experienced  seaman ;  but  it 
proved  one  of  tho  most  melancholy  voyages  on 
record. 

They  sailed  first  to  Davis's  Straits,  but  were 
prevented  by  the  ice  from  proceeding  northward, 
and  therefore  turned  and  passed  int«  Hudson's 
Straits,  Munk  changing  the  names  which  had  been 
given  by  former  voyagers  as  he  went  along,  though 
he  has  not  succeeded  in  getting  other  people  to 
adopt  hio  alterations.  They  took  up  their  winter 
quarters  in  Chesterfield's  Inlet,  which  is  in  the 
north-west  of  Hudson's  Bay,  built  themselves  good 


WWIitlliiWlWflii'iwimBfewi 


««M 


■V 


46 


JENS  MT-VK. 


huts,  anfl  found  plenty  of  game ;  so  that  they  had  a 
good  prospect  of  being  very  comfortable  until  spring 
returned,  and  they  were  able  to  resume  their  voyage. 
But  the  men  were  superstitious,  and  not  being  aware 
of  the  extraordinary  phenomena  which  they  might 
expect  to  witness  in  those  northern  seas,  were 
greatly  alarmed  when  in  November  they  saw  three 
distinct  suns,  and  in  December  an  eclipse  of  the 
moon,  which  seemed  to  be  surrounded  by  a  trans- 
parent circle,  with  a  cross  in  the  centre  dividing  the 
moon  into  quarters.  These  things  appeared  to 
them  as  bad  omens  of  their  future  fate ;  and  they 
became  utterly  depressed.  Then  the  frost  set  in 
with  such  severity  that  their  beer  and  spirit-casks 
burst ;  the  scurvy  appeared  among  them,  and  they 
became  so  weak  as  to  be  unable  to  kill  the  game 
which  abounded  around  them;  and  famine  stared 
them  in  the  face.  Munk  remained  in  his  hut  four 
days  without  food,  and  when  at  length  he  got 
courage  to  crawl  out,  he  found  that  of  a  ere*'  of 
sixty-four  he  and  two  companions  were  the  sole 
survivors. 

In  despair  the  three  set  to  work  to  dig  into  the 
hard  snow,  aud  then  discovered  some  plants  which 
proved  valuable  remedies  for  their  sickness ;  so  they 
soon  recovered,  and  were  able  to  fish  and  shoot, 
until  they  grew  strong  enough  to  repair  their  smaller 
vessel,  in  which  these  thre^  men  embarked,  and 
reached  their  native  land  in  September,  1620. 

Eleven  years  after  this  Captain  Luke  Fox,  or 
*  North-west  Fox,'  as  the  clever  but  concell^d  York- 


CAPTAIN  LUKE  FOX. 


that  they  had  a 
tble  until  spring 
ne  their  voyage. 
Qot  being  aware 
lich  they  might 
em  seas,  were 
they  saw  three 

eclipse  of  the 
led  by  a  trans- 
tre  dividing  the 
js  appeared  to 
fate;  and  they 
he  frost  set  in 
md  spirit-casks 
them,  and  they 

kill  the  game 
:  famine  stared 

in  his  hut  four 
length  he  got 
t  of  a  cre»-^  of 

were  the  sole 

to  dig  into  the 
le  plants  which 
okness ;  so  they 
9sh  and  shoot, 
lir  their  smaller 
embarked,  and 
sr,  1620. 
Luke  Fox,  or 
ionceli^d  York- 


shireman  chose  to  call  himself,  revived  the  subject  in 
England,  and  obtained  the  loan  of  a  vessel  for  the 
purpose  of  Arctic  discovery  from  King  Charles  I. 

Baffin's  report  had  convinced  him  that  the  pas- 
sage must  be  sought  through  Hudson's,  and  not 
through  Davis's  Straits;  so,  with  a  crew  carefully 
selected,  although,  as  he  regretted,  without  one  man 
who  knew  those  seas,  he  sailed  in  that  direction. 

Passing  several  small  islands,  he  came  into  Hud- 
son's Bay ;  and  coasting  along  the  north  of  it,  under 
Southampton  Isles,  he  reached  a  strait  on  the  west, 
in  which  was  an  island  of  which  he  boasted  that  he 
waa  the  discoverer,  and  named  it  Sir  Thomas  Rowe's 
"Welcome,  now  the  name  of  the  strait  in  which  it 
lies,  and  through  which  he  declared  that  he  believed 
the  passage  would  eventually  be  found. 

However,  he  did  not  pursue  this  passage,  but 
turned  again  towards  the  south,  until  at  length  he 
passed  out  of  the  bay  again,  and  into  the  Channel 
which  bears  his  name,  as  far  as  66°  north,  until  he 
came  to  a  point  of  land  which  he  called  •  Foxe  his 
farthest.'  Then  the  season  being  rather  advanced, 
he  made  the  best  of  his  way  home,  where  he  boasted 
considerably  of  his  discoveries,  though  they  really 
amounted  to  very  little. 

While  in  Hudson's  Bay  he  had  met  with  a 
rival  explorer,  who  had  been  sent  out  by  the  Bristol 
merchants  on  the  very  day  that  he  himself  had 
sailed.  The  two  commanderd  had  entertained  each 
other  on  board  their  respective  vessels.  Fox  pro- 
nounced this  Captain  Thomas  James  to  be  '  a  prac- 


T" 


48 


CAPTAIN  THOMAS  JAMES. 


titioner  in  the  matheraaticks,'  but  said  that  he  found 
him  to  be  no  seaman.  He  certainly  does  not  seem 
to  have  been  quite  the  man  for  such  a  charge-,  as 
we  may  judge  from  his  declining  to  take  any  seamen 
who  had  before  '  us'd  the  northerly  icy  seas,'  in  order 
that  there  might  be  .00  disputing  of  his  authority. 

It  would  be  a  long  story  to  tell  of  all  the  troubles 
which  the  crew  of  the 'Maria'  encountered.  They 
began  early,  and  continued  throughout  the  voyage. 
Even  off  Cape  Farewell  the  men  were  engaged  night 
and  day  in  warding  off  the  blows  of  the  ice ;  but  at 
length  Resolution  Island  came  in  sight,  and  with 
much  difficulty  they  made  their  way  into  Hudson's 
Strait,  and  so  down  into  the  bay.  James's  aim  was  to 
reach  the  bottom  of  the  bay,  and  so  find,  if  possible, 
a  passage  into  'the  river  of  Canada;'  or, 'failing 
that,  to  winter  on  the  main.' 

His  journal  is  full  of  most  dismal  relations  of 
sufferings,  first  from  cold  and  then  from  her  * ;  from 
plagues  of  msects  and  from  scurvy :  yet  w.  en,  by 
the  advice  of  his  officers,  he  at  length  bore  up  the 
helm  for  England,  he  says  that  'it  was  with  a 
sorrowful  heart  that  he  did  so.' 

His  name  has  been  immortalised  in  James's  Bay, 
as  that  of  Fox  has  been  in  the  channel  to  the  north 
of  it.  Hudson's  Bay  was,  in  fact,  growing  to  be  the 
centre  towards  which  the  attention  of  all  those  whbse 
eyes  were  directed  to  the  New  World  was  becoming 
attracted. 


8 


id  that  he  found 
r  does  not  seem 
ch  a  charge';  as 
take  any  seamen 
5y  seas,'  in  order 
)f  hia  authority. 
'  all  the  troubles 
untered.  They 
out  the  voyage, 
e  engaged  night 
■  the  ice ;  but  at 
sight,  and  with 
y  into  Hudson's 
oj^s's  aim  was  to 
^nd,  if  possible, 
ia;'  or,  'failing 

nal  relations  of 
"rom  her  * ;  from 
' :  yet  w.  en,  by 
igth  bore  up  the 
'it  was  with   a 

i  in  James's  Bay, 
nel  to  the  north 
rowing  to  be  the 
f  all  those  whbse 
Id  was  becoming 


49 


CHAPTER  III. 

EXPEDITIONS  IN  THE  EIOHTEENTH  CENTURY. 

For  some  time  past  the  French  had  been  settling  in 
considerable  numbers  in  Canada ;  and  now  an  enter- 
prising man  amongst  these  settlers,  named  Monsieur 
Grosseliez,  seeing  the  advantages  which  would  result 
from  the  formation  of  settlements  along  the  coast, 
represented  the  matter  to  his  government. 

But  the  unfavourable  report  concerning  the  cli- 
mate which  the  last  traveller,  Captain  Thomas  James, 
had  given,  entirely  discouraged  them  from  taking  it 
up,  and  thus  FrMice  missed  the  opportunity. 

The  English  Minister  at  Paris,  however,  saw  the 
proposition  in  another  light,  and  sent  Grosseliez  over 
to  Prince  Rupert  in  England,  who  warmly  entered 
into  his  scheme ;  and  the  result  was  the  formation  of 
the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  and  the  grant  to  it  oi 
all  that  vast  territory  known  as  Prince  Rupert's 
Land,  under  a  charter,  in  which  was  included  an 
express  stipulation  binding  them  to  follow  up  the 
discoveries  which  had  been  already  made. 

Having  once,  however,  obtained  the  monopoly, 
the  subject  of  discovery  and  of  the  long-sought  pas- 

E 


50       EXPEDITIONS  IN  THK  KIOIITEENTII  ('KNTURY. 

Hage  was  for  Home  time  entirely  forgotten.  In  fact, 
when  in  the  beginning  of  the  IStli  century  Mr. 
Knight,  the  governor  of  the  factory  on  Nebob'H 
River,  httviug  learned  from  the  natives  that  ut  some 
distance  to  the  nortli  of  Hudson's  Bay  there  was  to 
be  found  a  rich  mine  of  copper,  asked  for  ships  that 
he  might  discover  the  truth  of  he  report,  Ids  appli- 
cntiou  was  entirely  refused,  until  he  threatened  to 
call  on  the  Government  to  enforce  the  terms  of  the 

charter. 

Unfortunately  for  him,  he  then  gained  his  point, 
ana  nailed  with  two  shipe  which  never  returned.  Nor 
was  it  until  1769  that  any  tidings  of  the  fate  of  the 
expedition  were  gaii<d.  Then,  in  consequence  of  the 
continual  reports  aln  A.  the  copper-mine,  the  governor 
of  Prince  of  Wales'  Fort  sent  out  Samuel  Heame  to 
search  further  into  the  matter,  and  he  hoard  from 
'.he  Esquimaux  the  following  particulars  ;  — 

'  It  was  late  in  the  year,'  they  said,  *  when  the 
vessels  got  into  harbour  near  Marble  Island,  in 
the  west  of  Hudson's  Bay ;  and  the  larger  one  wa? 
much  injured.  The  two  crews  numbered  about  fifty  ; 
and  they  immediately  began  to  build  their  house. 
Aiter  that  was  finished  they  were  always  at  work  on 
the  long  boat ;  from  which  it  appears  that  the  ships 
were  disabled.  Next  spring  the  Esquimaux  paid 
them  another  visit,  and  found  their  numbers  much 
reduced.  In  the  following  winter  they  found  but 
twenty;  and  in  1721  their  number  was  reduced  to 
five.  The  Esquimaux  had  often  supplied  them  with 
provisions ;  and  on  this  occasion  they  wero  in  such 


iiffitt: 


CENTURY. 

(tten.  In  fact, 
I  century  Mr. 
y  on  Nebota'H 
38  that  ut  Homo 
ay  there  was  to 
i  for  ships  that 
port,  )>i8  appli- 
!  threatened  to 
e  terms  of  thf 

ained  his  point, 

returned.  Nor 

thti  fate  of  the 

sequence  of  the 

ne,  the  governor 

uiuel  Heame  to 

he  hoard  from 

lars :  — 

laid,  •  when  the 

rble   Island,  in 

larger  one  wa? 

jred  about  fifty ; 

ild  their  house. 

ways  at  work  on 

rs  that  the  ships 

Esquimaux  paid 

■  numbers  much 

they  found  but 

was  reduced  to 

)plied  them  with 

ley  were  in  such 


knioht's  expedition. 


51 


diHtresH  that  they  ate  the  blubber  and  seals'  flesli 
raw,  after  whirh  they  all  l)ecame  ill :  in  a  few  days 
three  had  died,  and  the  survivors  seemed  to  have 
scarcely  strength  to  bury  them. 

*  These  two,'  they  said,  «  used  ofl;en  to  go  to  the 
top  of  a  rock  and  look  o  t  earnestly,  as  if  for  a  vessel 
coming  to  their  relief.  Then  they  would  sit  down 
close  together,  and  weep  bitterly.     At  last  one  died. 


An  Eiqulmuux  Dog, 

and  the  other,  in  trying  to  dig  him  a  grave,  fell 
down  and  died,  too.' 

Heame  was  sent  out  three  times  in  search  of  the 
•  Neethaaan-saw-Dazey,'  or  Far-off  Metal  River,  ac- 
companied by  Indian  guides;  and  he  penetrated 
for  hundreds  of  miles  into  the  interior.    But,  though 


52       EXPEDITIONH  IN  THE  EKJHTEENTH  CENTURY. 

he  added  much  to  the  geographical  knowledge  of  the 
country,  he  never  discovered  more  than  one  small 
piece  of  the  copper  ore. 

On  the  third  journey  he  reached  the  very  river 
which  wuH  said  to  hold  such  treasureB ;  and  near  iti 
mouth  he  hiui  the  horror  of  witnessing  an  attack  made 
by  the  Indians  on  some  Esquimaux  tents,  pitched  in 
the  neighbourhood,  and  of  seeing  a  young  girl,  who 
clung  tt)  him  for  protection,  transfixed  by  the  spears 
of  two  savages;  who  only  laughed  at  }'.    entreaties 
that  she  might  be  spared,  and  asked  him  if  he  wanted 
an  Esquimaux  wife  ?     This  spot  he  named  in  conse- 
quence the  Bloody  Falls,    Then,  continuing  his  course 
up  this  Coppermine  River,  he  soon  came  in  sight  of 
the  Frozen  Ocean,  the  very  existence  of  which  was 
then  still  doubtful.     Hearne  was,  therefore,  the  first 
European  to  witness  it;  and  his  journey  opened  the 
way  for  future  discoveries. 

Thus  we  have  brought  our  sketch  to  the  reign  of 
George  III.,  and  must  hasten  briefly  to  notice  the 
various  other  efforts  of  the  last  century. 

The  Hon.  Daines  Barrington  was  one  of  the 
chief  supporters  of  such  movements ;  and  having  in- 
duced the  Royal  Society  to  take  the  matter  up,  a 
plan  for  attempting  the  passage  across  the  Pole  was 
laid  before  the  king;  and  the  *  Racehorse'  and  '  Car- 
cass' sent  out,  under  the  command  of  Captain  Phipps 
and  Captain  Lutwidge ;  with  the  latter  of  whom  went 
as  coxswain  no  less  a  person  than  Horatio  Nelson 
himself,  then  a  mere  boy. 

They  did  not,  however,  reach  a  higher  latitude 


t:,,,. 


CENTURY. 

owledge  of  the 
l)un  one  small 

the  very  river 
s ;  and  near  its 
an  attack  made 
sntfi,  pitched  in 
oung  girl,  who 
i  by  the  Bpears 
i  M    eutreatiea 
im  if  he  wanted 
lamed  in  conse- 
luing  his  courHe 
ime  in  eight  of 
e  of  which  was 
jrefore,  the  first 
•ney  opened  the 

I  to  the  reign  of 
y  to  notice  the 
tury. 

vas  one  of  the 
and  having  in- 
le  matter  up,  a 
)88  the  Pole  was 
lorse'  and  '  Car- 
Captain  PhippB 
gr  of  whom  weut 
Horatio  Nelson 

I  higher  latitude 


CAPTAm  COOK,   f  •• 

than  81®  north,  and  came  Imck  with  the  convic- 
tion that  to  proceed  Ijeyond  tliat  wuh  utterly  imp(tH- 
sihle. 

DiHappointmont  having  attended  every  attempt 
to  reach  the  Pacific  by  the  Atlantic,  it  was  next 
propoHed  to  reverse  the  plan  ;  and  the  groat  Cuptain 
Cook  wiiM  Bent  on  thiH,  his  last  voyage,  round  the 
Cape  of  Good  Hope,  ard  directed  to  work  iiis  way 
up  the  western  shore  of  America,  and  through 
Behring's  Htraits,  across  the  ocean  a*  the  north  of 
the  Continent,  in  case  such  an  ocean  wiw  fonud  to 
exist :  for  we  must  remember  that,  as  yet,  it  was 
uncertain  whether  in  some  parts  the  land  did  not 
reach  to  the  very  Pole  itself. 

Captain  Cook  sailed  to  a  point  which  he  named 
Icy  Cape ;  and  finding  the  ice  beyond  impregnable,  he 
returned  to  winter  at  the  Sandwich  Isles,  intending 
to  make  anotiier  attempt  in  the  next  summer :  but 
in  a  quarrel  with  the  natives,  aa  is  so  well  known,  he 
was  slain. 

It  was  a  long  time  before  any  vessel  passed  Icy 
Cape,  although  several  navigators  made  attempts 
to  pass  this  way ;  Vancouver  leaving  his  name  on  an 
island  discovered  by  him,  and  Kotzebue  in  the  sound 
just  north  of  Behring's  Straits :  while  Captain  Meares, 
who  made  several  voyages  in  the  employ  of  some 
merchants  of  Bengal,  has  given  us  a  most  curious 
and  interesting  account  of  the  natives  of  the  country 
round  Nootka  Sound  and  Prince  William's  Sound. 
He  tells  us  that  they  live  in  immense  dwellings, 
supported  on  the  trunks  of  trees  and  large  carved 


54      EXPEDITIONS  IN  THE  EIGHTEENTH  CENTURY. 

images ;  that  they  are  gentle  and  courteous  in  their 
bearing,  and  are  yet  no  fond  of  human  flesh  that 
men's  heads  and  limbs  are  sold  in  the  markets  ;  tliat 
they  are  fond  of  water-processions,  and  of  hunting 
the  whale ;  and  that  many  of  them  sing  beautifully ; 
whilst  their  extraordinary  fondness  for  metals  — 
especially  for  copper — enabled  him  to  carry  on 
with  them  a  very  profitable  barter  for  furs.  This 
was  the  chief  object  of  his  voyage ;  and  on  one 
occasion  he  obtained  a  large  quantity  of  the 
skins  of  the  sea-otter  in  exchange  for  two  copper- 
kettles. 

So  profitable,  indeed,  was  this  kind  of  trade  found 
to  be,  that  a  great  jealousy  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Com- 
pany had  long  sprung  up  in  the  minds  of  many,  not 
fortunate  enough  to  have  a  share  in  it,  and  in  con- 
sequence an  opposition,  called  the  North-west  Com- 
pany, was  started ;  and  so  violent  a  struggle  between 
the  two  companies  ensued,  that,  as  has  been  very 
fairly  remarked,  *the  Indian  must  have  smiled  to 
hear  the  white  man  call  him  Savage.' 

However,  in  connexion  with  this  new  company 
we  find  one  of  our  greatest  North  American  travellers. 
Heame  had  declared  that  he  had  seen  that  ocean  of 
which  the  very  existence  was  as  yet  a  question ;  but 
though  recently  entirely  verified,  his  report  was  at 
that  time  received  with  much  distrust. 

In  1789  Mackenzie  followed  in  his  wake,  or, 
rather,  he  resolved  to  cross  the  whole  continent  from 
Fort  Chipewyan  to  the  extreme  west;  and  accom- 
panied by  a  party  of  Canadians,  he  in  a  few  days 


SNTH  CENTURY. 

1  courteous  in  their 
if  human  flesh  that 
1  the  markets ;  that 
ns,  and  of  hunting 
xn  sing  beautifully ; 
Iness  for  metals  — 
.  Lim  to  carry  on 
rter  for  furs.  This 
•yage ;  and  on  one 
3  quantity  of  the 
ige  for  two  copper- 

I  kind  of  trade  found 
Hudson's  Bay  Com- 
minds  of  many,  not 
e  in  it,  and  in  con- 
he  North-west  flom- 
t  a  struggle  between 
t,  as  has  been  very 
LUst  have  smiled  to 

AVAQE.' 

I  this  new  company 
American  travellers. 
d  seen  that  ocean  of 
yet  a  question ;  but 
i,  his  report  was  at 
strust. 

id  in  his  wake,  or, 
vhole  continent  from 
B  west;  and  accom- 
3,  he  in  a  few  days 


SIR  ALEXANDER  MACKENZIE. 


66 


reached  Slave  Lake,  arid  embarked  on  the  river 
which  now  bears  his  name,  down  which  he  persisted 
in  continuing  his  course,  in  spite  of  the  opposition  of 
the  Indians,  who  tried  by  all  sorts  of  horrid  stories 
about  monsters  inhabiting  its  banks  to  turn  him 
from  his  purpose. 

He  at  length  reached  the  mouth  of  this  river ; 
and,  finding  there  an  island  which  was  surrounded  by 
manv  whales,  he  called  it  'Whale  Island.'  Then, 
ascending  the  highest  ground  which  he  could  find, 
he  saw  both  east  and  west,  as  far  as  the  eye  could 
reach,  nothing  but  ice ;  and  thus,  therefore,  Mac- 
kenzie also  no  doubt  saw  that  same  ocean  which 
Hearne  had  discovered,  and  which  the  Indians  call 
'  The  Great  Stinking  Lake.' 

He  afterwards  started  on  another  journey  from 
Athabaska  Lake,  ascending  Peace  Liver  until  he 
came  to  the  Kocky  Mountains,  up  which  they  had  to 
cut  a  passage  through  the  snow  and  haul  their 
canoe,  until  they  fell  in  with  another  little  river,  down 
which  they  were  able  to  float  it.  And  here  their 
course  led  them  through  many  settlements  of  beavers, 
which,  in  order  to  make  their  dwellings,  had  felled 
whole  acres  of  trees.  Their  course  would  have  been 
stopped  here — for  the  Indian  guide,  tired  of  the 
dangers  of  the  way,  pretended  to  know  of  no  river 
westward — had  not  Mackenzie  overheard  a  man 
with  whom  the  guide  was  talking  speak  of  a  large 
river  Sowing  towards  the  midday  sun,  and  insisted 
on  resumi^ir  ihe  journey.  So  at  length  they  arrived 
at  the  Gulf  of  Georgia,  and  Mackenzie  wrote  his 


56      EXPEDITIONS  IN  THE  EIGHTEENTH  CENTURY. 

name  on  the  rock,  and  inscribed  under  it  the  date, 
'  July  22nd,  1793.' 

It  was  where  Mackenzie's  journey  ended  that 
Captain  Vancouver,  who  had  been  a  midshipman 
under  Cook,  began  his  examination  among  the 
archipelago  of  isles  in  the  neighbourhood  of  thic 
gulf,  to  ascertain  whether  somewhere  in  the  midst  of 
them  the  passage  did  not  exist. 

Thus  have  we  slightly  narrated  the  various  at- 
tempts made  to  the  north  and  to  the  west,  noticing 
a  few  to  the  eastward  as  we  went  along ;  but  before 
proceeding  to  relate  at  greater  length  those  suc- 
cessive and  persevering  expeditions  in  search  of  the 
North-west  Passage  made  in  this  century,  which  have 
at  last  been  crowned  with  success,  we  must  notice 
two  other  remarkable  attempts  in  a  north-easterly 
direction,  which  have  been  purposely  left  until  last, 
namely,  those  of  Barentsz  the  Dutchman,  and  of 
Bebring  the  Dane. 

It  was  just  after  that  fearful  struggle  for  political 
and  religious  liberty,  in  which  the  brave  Hollanders 
were  so  long  engaged,  that  the  merchants  of  the 
United  Provinces  requested  permission  of  the  States 
General  to  send  an  expedition  round  the  north  of 
Europe  and  Asia,  in  order  to  ascertain  if  a  passage 
to  the  Indies  existed  in  that  direction.  They  ea- 
gerly took  up  the  scheme,  and  fitted  out  three  ships 
and  a  small  bark  for  the  enterprise,  giving  the 
command  to  a  clever  seaman  named  William 
Barentsz. 

At  Kola,  in  Lapland,  the  little  squadron  sepa- 


CENTURY. 

er  it  the  date, 

3y  ended  that 
a  midshiptnaa 
n  among  the 
irhood  of  thk 
in  the  midst  of 

;he  various  at- 

west,  noticing 

ng ;  but  before 

[th   those   suc- 

1  search  of  the 

iry,  which  have 

ire  must  notice 

north-easterly 

left  until  last, 

ihman,  and  of 

gle  for  political 
ave  Hollanders 
rchants  of  the 
n  of  the  States 
1  the  north  of 
ain  if  a  passage 
ion.  They  ea- 
out  three  ships 
ise,  giving  the 
amed    William 

squadron  sepa- 


!!'t|P",-'! 


BARENTSZ. 


57 


rated ;  and  Barentsz  soon  reached  the  extreme  north 
of  Nova  Zembla,  to  which  he  gave  the  same  name 
as  that  afterwards  conferred  by  Cook  on  one  of  the 
north-west  points  of  America,  Icy  Cape ;  but  he  could 
advance  no  further.  The  other  vessels  reached 
Waigatz  Island  during  the  brilliant  Arctic  summer, 
and  found  it  gay  with  flowers  of  every  colour. 
Leaving  it,  they  sailed  on  till  they  came  to  the  sea 
of  Kara,  which,  from  its  blue  colour  and  the  sudden 
bend  of  the  coast,  they  took  for  the  open  sea,  and 
imagined  it  to  be  that  which  washed  the  shores  of 
the  Indies. 

Under  that  impression  they,  with  Barentsz,  whom 
they  had  rejoined,  returned  home  in  September,  and 
found  the  States  so  well  satisfied  that  seven  ships  were 
soon  laden  with  merchandize,  and  Barentsz  again 
placed  in  command.  A  storm,  howe'-er,  arose,  which 
compelled  them  to  diverge  from  their  original  course  ; 
and  this  expedition  proving  a  failure,  the  govern- 
ment declined  further  assistance,  though  they  oflfered 
a  reward  to  any  successful  explorer. 

Barentsz  was,  nevertheless,  soon  once  more  em- 
ployed by  some  private  adventurers,  in  conjunction 
with  Rijp ;  and  on  this  voyage  they  discovered  not 
only  Bear  Island,  but  the  larger  one  of  Spitzbergen, 
so  named  from  its  sharp-pointed  mountains.  At 
this  point  the  two  commanders  differed  as  to  their 
course,  and  at  length  separated ;  Rijp  after  a  while 
being  unsuccessful  returned  home,  while  Barentsz 
passed  on  to  the  north  of  Nova  Zembla,  and  there 
became  involved  in  fogs  and  such  masses  of  floating 


i!:r.r 


I 


\ 


58       EXPEDITIONS  IN  THE  EIGHTEENTH  CENTURY. 

ice  that  the  ship  was  sometimes  completely  litted  out 
of  the  water,  almost  in  a  perpendicular  position ;  and 
on  this  dreary  coast,  finding  it  impossible  to  extricate 
the  vessels,  these  seventeen  poor  creatures  were  com- 
pelled to  winter.  There  seems,  notwithstanding,  to 
have  been  neither  mutiny  nor  murmuring  among 
them.  Bravely  and  cheerfully  they  built  a  hut,  aad 
made  themselves  as  comfortable  as  they  could. 

This  was  in  October ;  and  every  day  it  became 
colder,  until  the  beer  froze  and  burst  the  casks,  and 
even  the  fire  seemed  to  have  lost  all  power  of  con- 
veying heat,  for  clothes  hung  by  it  to  dry  would 
freeze  on  the  side  furthest  oflF;  and  stockings  would 
smell  uf  burning  before  the  feet  felt  any  warmth. 
The  sun  disappeared  on  the  4th  of  November,  and 
did  not  again  show  himself  until  the  24th  January ; 
and  the  cold  continued  unabated  until  April. 

Yet,  even  amidst  their  suflferings,  the  brave  old 
Dutchmen  intreated  to  be  allowed  to  keep  the  '  Feast 
of  the  Kings'  on  the  6th  of  January;  and  no  sooner 
did  the  temperature  became  milder  than  they  began 
to  form  plans  of  escape. 

What  stock  of  food  they  possessed  in  the  mean- 
time we  are  not  told ;  but  by  the  moonlight,  even 
in  the  depth  of  winter,  they  occupied  themselves  in 
the  cnpture  of  the  little  Arctic  fox,  which  proved  to 
be  vety  pleasant  food. 

As  long  as  the  sun  remained  above  the  horizon 
the  great  white  Polar  bear  had  frequently  alarmed 
them  by  his  visits ;  but  he  disappeared,  much  to  their 
relief,  when  the  long  nights  set  in. 


EI  CENTURY. 

)letely  litted  out 
iT  position ;  and 
jible  to  extricate 
ttures  were  com- 
withetanding,  to 
rmuring  among 
built  a  hut,  aad 
hey  could. 
y  day  it  became 
it  the  casks,  and 
11  power  of  con- 
it  to  dry  would 
stockings  would 
sit  any  warmth. 
F  November,  and 
e  24th  January ; 
til  April. 
j8,  the  brave  old 
keep  the  '  Feast 
;  and  no  sooner 
than  they  began 

ed  in  the  mean- 
moonlight,  even 
id  themselves  in 
which  proved  to 

bove  the  horizon 
iquently  alarmed 
}d,  much  to  their 


BEHRINQ. 


69 


It  was  not  till  June  that  they  were  able  to  leave 
their  dreary  prison,  and  commit  themselves  to  the 
ocean  in  the  two  boats ;  the  ship  being  immovably 
fixed  on  the  shore.  But  before  they  lost  sight  of 
that  terrible  coast  their  bravft  and  t  orthy  com- 
mander had  expired.  He  had  T)een  failing  for  some 
time ;  but  on  the  morning  of  his  death  he  had  desired 
to  be  lifted  up  in  the  boat,  and,  to  the  great  grief  of 
the  crew,  he  breathed  his  last  while  apparently 
taking  a  farewell  gaze  of  the  island  where  they  had 
for  80  long  been  imprisoned.  Twelve  of  the  seventeen 
reached  Holland  in  safety ;  having  first  fallen  in  with 
some  Russian  vessels,  and  afterwards  met  with  Rijp 
himself,  who  was  out  i^n  on  a  trading  voyage. 

A  century  and  a  quarter  after  this  Peter  the 
Great  determined  to  ascertain,  if  possible,  whether  or 
no  any  connexion  between  Asia  and  America  existed ; 
and  though  he  did  not  live  to  carry  out  his  plan,  yet 
on  his  death-bed  he  drew  up  a  scheme,  which  the 
Empress  Catherine  carefully  carried  out  tvfter  his  de- 
cease, giving  the  command  to  Captain  Vitus  Behring, 
an  officer  in  the  Russian  army. 

He  and  his  company  journeyed  by  land  to 
0/'  ''r'  from  whence  they  sailed  from  the  river  of 
irimpt«  u  +.ka  on  their  voyage. 

.'  .nsuccessfiil,  as  was  also  another  made 

the  nc*  - ;  yet,  in  1741,  Behring  again  sailed  with 
two  vesb  the  'St.  Peter'  and  'St.  Paul,'  which 
in  a  storm  soon  became  separated,  and  never  met 


again. 


Tschirikow,  the  captain  of  the  one  vessel,  soon 


60      EXPEDITIONS  IN  THE  EIGHTEENTH  CENTURY. 


<:i 


sighted  the  American  Continent,  and  sent  a  boat 
ashore,  properly  armed,  with  instructions  to  make 
signals  to  the  ship  on  landing  ;  but  nothing  was  ever 
heard  of  this  boat's  crew  again.  Next  day,  two 
canoes  coming  o*F  to  the  ship  in  a  very  threatening 
manner,  Tschirikow  could  only  c;  uiao  along  the  lonely 
coast  for  some  days ;  and  at  length  he  determined  to 
turn  the  vessel  homewards. 

Commodore  Behring's  vessel,  however,  proceeded, 
and  soon  came  in  sight  of  the  stupendous  snowy  moun- 
tains of  theNew  World;  one  of  which  he  namedMount 
St.  Elias.  Here  they  landed,  and  found  some  trace 
of  human  inhabitants. 

Proceeding  on  their  way  round  the  coast,  they 
soon  found  the  navigation  very  difficult  and  dangerous, 
on  account  of  the  many  small  islets  which  studded 
the  coast.  The  scurvy  also  broke  out  among  them, 
and  Bohring  himself  was  attacked  and  confined  to 
his  bed ;  so  that  Lieutenant  Waxel  had  to  take  the 
command. 

They  were  next  involved  in  a  heavy  fog,  lasting 
for  days ;  and  then  a  tremendous  gale  sprung  up  and 
drove  them  before  it :  so  that  they  were  in  constant 
fear  of  shipwreck  among  the  islands. 

Very  few  of  the  crew  were  fit  for  duty ;  and  as 
they  had  only  brackish  water,  and  the  tough  flesh  of 
the  sea-otter,  many  died. 

At  length  land  was  seen,  which  proved  to  be  a 
small  island  on  the  coast  of  Kamptschatka ;  and  here 
they  were  driven  ashore :  so,  seeing  no  alternative  but 
to  winter  there,  they  began  to  remove  the  sick  to 


!! 


H  CENTURY. 

ind  sent  a  boat 
notions  to  make 
lothing  was  ever 
Next  day,  two 
very  threatening 
;  along  the  lonely 
16  determined  to 

vever,  proceeded, 
3U8  snowy  mcun- 
he  named  Mount 
found  some  trace 

i  the  coast,  they 
It  and  dangerous, 
s  which  studded 
)ut  among  them, 
and  confined  to 
had  to  take  the 

leavy  fog,  lasting 
le  sprung  up  and 
were  in  constant 

i. 

For  duty ;  and  as 
he  tough  flesh  of 

1  proved  to  be  a 
ihatka;  and  here 
10  alternative  but 
nove  the  sick  to 


.■■''Y^''!^'^''''^' 


DEATH  OF  BEHBING. 


61 


the  land,  and  place  them  in  hovels  which  (hey  had 
prepared.  But  many  died  from  the  exposure  to  the 
cold  ;  and  on  the  8th  of  December  Behr'  ag  himself 
expired.  It  is,  therefore,  in  a  melanoaoly  manner 
that  the  name  of  this  worthy  man  is  connected  with 
these  Straits. 

Good  food  and  water  being  now  within  their 
reach,  the  rest  of  the  crew  were  soon  restored  to 
health;  and  in  May  they  began  to  build  a  small 
vessel,  their  own  being  now  useless.  In  this, 
though  a  crazy  affair,  they,  on  the  14th  of  July, 
committed  themselves  to  the  ocean;  and  in  a  few 
days  saw  the  coast  of  Kamptachatka,  and  landed 
shortly  afterwards  in  Awatchka  Bay,  where,  having 
long  been  given  up  as  lost,  they  were  warmly  wel- 
comed back. 


62 


rT\rTER  IV. 

SIR  J .  ,  .ji  ROS  '     iRST  iXPEDITION. 

Alexander  Mackenzie's  land  journeys  may  be  said 
to  have  been  the  concluding  efforts  of  the  last 
century  in  a  north-westerly  direction.  They  had 
thrown  some  light  on  the  subject,  as  had  every  great 
previous  attempt ;  and  yet  still,  at  the  beginning  of 
our  present  century,  all  beyond  the  Arctic  Circle  was 
a  blank  in  our  maps  from  Icy  Cape  to  Fox  Channel, 
with  the  exception  of  the  two  isolated  points  reached 
by  Hearne  and  Mackenzie,  while  to  the  east  of  the 
Channel  something  like  the  bare  outline  of  Baffin's 
Bay  was  all  that  could  be  traced. 

After  80  many  apparently  fruitless  efforts  it 
almost  seemed  as  if  the  question  must  be  given  up, 
and  the  problem  remain  for  ever  unsolved,  when 
a  communication  made  by  Mr.  William  Scoresby, 
captain  of  a  whaling-vessel,  to  Sir  Joseph  Banks, 
President  of  the  Royal  Society,  reawakened  the  hopes 
of  scientific  men,  and  of  the  nation  at  large. 

The  name  of  Scoresby  ought  indeed  to  be  ever 
prominently  mentioned  in  connexion  with  the  recent 
geographical  discoveries ;  and  well  qualified  would 


WILLTAM  W'ORESnV. 


6» 


)moN. 

eys  may  be  said 
its  of  the  last 
on.  They  had 
had  every  great 
the  beginning  of 
Arctic  Circle  was 
to  Fox  Channel, 
i  points  reached 
the  east  of  the 
tline  of  Baffin's 

litless  efforts  it 
ist  be  given  up, 

unsolved,  when 
illiam  Scoresby, 

Joseph  Banks, 
ikened  the  hopes 
it  large, 
ieed  to  be  ever 

with  the  recent 
qualified  would 


its  owner  have  been  to  take  the  command  of  an 
expedition  of  discovery. 

The  son  of  the  inventor  of  'the  round  top- 
gallant crow's  nest,'  said  to  have  been  one  of  the 
greatest  boons  ever  given  to  Arctic  navigators,  and  of 
one  of  the  most  intelligent  and  successful  whaling 
captains  of  his  time,  William  Scoresby  early  distin- 
guished himself  in  his  profession. 

In  1806  he,  with  his  father,  had  reached  a  higher 
latitude  than  had  been  yet  attained,  and  he  was  only 
in  his  twenty-first  year  when  the  elder  Scoresby 
retired  from  active  life  and  left  to  him  the  command 
of  his  vessel. 

It  was  in  ihe  year  1817  that  he  noticed  a  remark- 
able change  in  the  condition  of  the  northern  ice- 
fields, about  18,000  square  miles  of  the  Greenland 
seas,  between  the  parallels  of  74°  and  80°,  being 
perfectly  free,  and  large  quantities  of  ice  being  at 
the  same  time  found  in  some  parts  of  the  Atlantic, 
where  it  was  usually  quite  unknown ;  and  he  at  once 
conjectured  that  some  great  disruption  of  the  vast 
fields  of  ice  at  the  North  Pole  had  taken  place,  and 
that  the  opportunity  for  undertaking  further  dis- 
coveries had  at  length  arrived. 

In  the  hope  of  being  appointed  tx)  some  such 
undertaking  he  seems  to  have  written  to  Sir  Joseph 
Banks,  the  President  of  the  Royal  Society,  on  the 
subject ;  for  who  was  so  likely  to  enter  into  his 
feelings  as  the  man  who  had  made  voyages  to  Ice- 
land, Newfouudlaad,  and  the  South  Sea .  Islands, 
solely  for  the   purpose   of  making  discoveries    in 


M 


.i; 


> 


64 


SIR  JOHN  ROSS. 


M 


natural  'nistory,  and  who  in  1768  had  accompanied 
Captain  Cook  on  a  voyage  to  the  South  Seas, 
simply  that  he  might  obscirve  the  transit  of  the 
planet  Venus  over  the  disc  of  the  sun  ?  Sir  Joseph 
immediately  memorialised  the  Government  on  the 
subject,  and  endeavoured  to  procure  for  Scoresby  a 
commission  to  proceed  on  a  voyage  of  discovery 
towards  the  North  Pole. 

The  project  was  taken  up,  but  not  the  man ;  for, 
in  conformity  with  a  rule  of  the  service,  the  Lords  of 
the  Admiralty  selected  an  officer  of  the  Royal  Navy 
to  cany  out  the  scheme.  And  Scoresby,  after 
making  several  other  voyages,  and  becoming  the 
author  of  some  remarkable  works  on  the  Arctic 
regions  and  the  northern  whale  fisheries,  and 
having  been  elected  a  Fellow  of  the  Royal  Societies 
of  London  and  Edinburgh,  eventually  took  holy 
orders,  and  became  chaplain  of  the  Mariners'  Church 
at  Liverpool.  He  died  in  1857,  just  four  years  after 
the  arrival  of  the  despatches  from  Captain  M'Clure 
announcing  the  actual  accomplishment  of  that  which 
had  been  the  aim  of  three  centuries. 

In  the  late  Secretary  of  the  Admiralty  every 
scheme  like  that  of  Scoresby's  found  a  warm 
advocate.  Sir  John  Barrow  at  once  consulted  with 
Sir  Joseph  Banks,  and  having  in  some  measure 
matured  their  plan,  laid  it  before  Lord  Melville, 
the  First  Lord  of  the  Admiralty ;  and  the  sanction 
of  Government  being  obtained,  orders  were  soon 
issued  for  the  preparation  of  four  ships ;  two  to 
proceed  in  search  of  the  passage  between  the  Atlantic 


g»MiiiMa'»rrfc7&i"SiSitiiyti^'!liiW'«\ 


l> 


lad  accompanied 
he  South  .Seas, 
tranait  of  the 
in  ?  Sir  Joseph 
ernment  on  the 
e  for  Scoreflby  a 
ge  of  discovery 

ot  the  man  ;  for, 
ice,  the  Lords  of 
the  Royal  Navy 
Scoresby,  after 
i  becoming  the 
I  on  the  Arctic 
)  fisheries,  and 
9  Royal  Societies 
ually  took  holy 
Vlariners'  Church 
b  four  years  after 
Captain  M'Clure 
ent  of  that  which 

Admiralty  every 
found  a  warm 
e  consulted  with 
1  some  measure 
J  Lord  Melville, 
md  the  sanction 
rders  were  soon 
ir  ships ;  two  to 
veen  the  Atlantic 


SIR  JOHN  HAUROW. 


M 


and  the  I'aciHi%  and  two  towards  the  North  PoU-,  by 
way  of  Spitzbcirgt'n. 

The  three  names  thus  joined  in  coimcil  came  at 
no  distunt  date  to  lie  thoHe  of  tiie  unknown  lands 
and  seas,  lint  we  must  not  anticipate:  only,  as 
Sir  John  Barrow  had  ho  mucli  to  do  with  Mu-se  and 
succeeding  expeditions,  it  may  he  well  to  say  nome- 
thiug  of  tliis  (liHtinguisht'd  man  before  we  go  further. 

In  early  life  he  had  himself  '  paid  a  visit  to  the 
Spitzbergcn  seas,  as  high  as  Hakluyt's  Headland, 
near  the  80th  parallel,'  and  no  sooner  did  the 
intelligence  reach  him  of  the  breaking  up  of  the 
northern  barrier  than  various  learned  articles  from 
his  pen  appeared  in  the  Quarterlies,  pressing  on 
the  English  nation  the  honour  which  now  lay  open 
to  them  of  completing  that  work  which  their  own 
navigators  had  first  begun.  He  also  wrote  a  'Chro- 
nological History  of  Voyages  in  the  Arctic  Regions.' 
In  fact,  the  great  movements  of  this  centtiry  in 
the  way  of  Arctic  discovery  are  generally  ascribed 
to  him. 

The  •  Isabella '  and  the  •  Alexander,'  of  respec- 
tively 385  and  252  tons,  were  the  two  ships  ap- 
pointed to  make  their  way  into  Baffin's  Bay,  for  the 
purpose  of  discovering  whether  or  not  it  were 
bounded  by  land,  as  the  charts  generally  repre- 
sented it,  or  whether  in  any  part  there  were  a  com- 
munication with  the  main  ocean.  Baffin  had,  we 
know,  sailed  all  round,  and  had  declareil  that  all 
hope  of  a  passage  that  way  was  at  an  end ;  but 
information  which  had  from  time  to  time  reached 

F 


i  Fi«j !  [ 


'  :  I.' 


66 


HIR  JOHN  ROMS. 


■1^ 


the  AdiiiirHlty  (if  H  current  ruiiniu({  from  tlio  nortli 
towards  the  upper  part  of  DhvIn'm  Sti-'iitM  hud  led 
thorn  to  HUHp<u!t  that  tlio  Hivgacious  old  navigator  had 
fallen  into  a  inJHtako. 

The  firHt  thing,  therefore,  wiu»  to  iwcerUiin  what 
hope  lay  in  thin  (|uartor  ;  nor  were  any  painn  spared 
in  the  preparation  of  the  vengelB,  which  were  iw 
Ktrong  aH  it  was  posMibio  to  make  them,  and  no 
doubt  very  different  affairs  fruni  the  old  '  Discovery,' 
in  which  BafHn  had  miule  his  voyages. 

Scoresby  being  sot  asiile  entirely  as  incapaci- 
tated, on  account  of  not  having  served  in  the  navy, 
it  was  necessary  to  look  about  for  a  suitable  person 
to  command  the  expedition  ;  and  on  the  recom- 
moudatiou  of  Sir  George  Hope,  Commander  Ross, 
now  better  known  a»  Sir  John  Koss,  was  appointed. 

He  had  served  in  the  navy,  the  iPdrchant 
service,  the  East  India  service,  and  again  in  the 
navy  during  the  war,  at  the  close  of  wliich  he  had 
had  to  settle  down  on  half-pay,  and  without  employ- 
ment. As  au  active  man,  though  not  an  adven- 
turous one,  he  was  only  too  glad  to  be  again 
employed,  and  hesitated  not  to  accept  the  command 
offered  to  him,  notwithstanding  that  he  was  perfectly 
ignorant  of  that  particular  kind  of  service,  and 
perhaps  naturally  disqualified  for  it. 

Under  him  was  to  serve  as  commander  of  the 
*  Alexander,'  Lieutenant  Parry,  the  son  of  Dr.  Parry 
of  Bath,  who  thus  began  a  career  in  which  he  after*- 
wards  became  so  famous. 

Parry  had  served  first  in  tho  'Ville  de  Paris,' 


;  mmtrntK 


fnttn  the  north 
i  StniitM  hwl  led 
)ld  tiuvigator  had 

to  UHCcrUiin  what 
any  painH  spared 

which  wore  iw 
e  them,  and  no 
I  old  '  DiHcovery,' 
m. 

rely  as  incapaci- 
rved  in  the  navy, 
a  Huitnhle  person 

on  the  recora- 
lotnrnandor  K088, 
,  waH  appointed. 
r,  the  iPdrchant 
nd  tt^Ain  in  the 
of  which  he  had 

without  einploy- 
li  not  an  adven- 
ad  to  be  again 
ept  the  command 
t  he  waH  perfectly 

of  service,  and 
it. 

)mmander  of  the 
son  of  Dr.  Parry 
I  which  he  after- 

•Ville  de  Paris,' 


'•■f.--TW»BK:rf:j;!<«!' 


I.IKUTKNANT  I'AKUV.  g| 

which  wiw  employed  in  hlockading  the  Kreiich  cnu«| 
rotiiid  HrtMt  and  llnhant,  junt  at  the  time  when  an 
inva«ion  hy  Hiionapurte  wan  expected.  He  imd  uIho 
M'vn  service  in  the  Baltic,  and  ath-rwardH  in  the 
protection  of  the  whale  fishery;  while  MiU  later  he 
had  croHHi-d  the  Atlantic,  and  arrived  at  Halifax  the 
day  following  the  action  In'tween  the  'Shannon'  and 
the  •Chesapeake;'  so  that  he  had  already  made 
some  way  towards  accomplishing  the  wish  expreshed 
in  his  childhood,  when  found  astride  of  u  globe, — 
•  How  nice  it  would  Im>  to  go  round  it  I ' 

And  yet  it  is  a  noticeable  circumstance  in  the 
history  of  tliis  remarkable  man,  that  lu)  did  not 
enter  the  naval  service  of  his  own  accord,  nor  by  his 
own  desire.  Tn  fact,  until  within  a  few  days  of  his 
first  voyage.  Parry  seems  never  to  have  hati  any 
other  idea  than  that  of  following  his  father's  pro- 
fession. 

But  a  lady  friend  of  Dr.  Parry's  family,  who  felt 
sure  that  he  was  formed  for  an  active  life,  and  Imd 
often  advised  that  he  should  be  sent  to  sea,  at  that 
moment  gained  her  point.  Admiral  Cornwallis,  her 
near  relation,  l)eing  then  in  command  of  the  Chaunel 
fleet,  Edward  was  allowed  to  make  trial  of  a  sea 
life  by  one  cruise ;  and  thus  his  future  destiny  was 
fixed. 

In  1817,  having  been  recalled  to  England  from 
the  Bermudas  in  consequence  of  his  fatlier's  severe 
illness,  he  had,  after  some  mouths  of  inaction, 
written  to  a  friend  on  the  suliject  of  further  employ- 
ment ;  but  before  posting  his  letter,  a  paragraph  in 


fc 


4f 

i 

68 


SIR  JOHN  ROSS. 


a  newspaper,  relating  to  the  proposed  Polar  expedi- 
tion, attracted  his  notice  ;  and,  though  he  had  been 
speaking  of  African  discovery,  he  seized  his  pen 
again  and  added,  that  'hot  or  cold  was  all  one  to 
him — Africa  or  the  Pole.' 

This  letter  was  shown  by  his  friend  to  Sir  .Tolm 
Barrow,  who  saw  at  once  that  he  was  the  right 
man;  and  accordingly  he  was  appointed  second  in 
command. 

It  was  on  the  18th  of  April,  1818,  that  the 
'  Isabella '  and  '  Alexander  '  sailed  from  Deptford, 
bearing  with  them  many  valuable  instruments  for 
the  purpose  of  making  observations  in  astronomy, 
navigation,  magnetism,  and  other  sciences. 

Theso  things  were  specially  intended  for  the  use 
of  Captain  Sabine  of  the  Royal  Artillery,  who,  on 
account  of  his  great  scientific  attainments,  and  his 
skill  in  the  use  of  such  mathematical  and  astro- 
nomical instruments,  had  been  particiUarly  requested 
to  join  the  expedition. 

Another  very  different,  but  most  valuable  person, 
had  also  expressed  a  wish,  and  had  obtained  leave 

to  join. 

This  was  a  young  Esquimaux  of  the  name  of 
Sackhouse,  who  was  then  on  his  second  visit  to 
Scotland.  This  youiug  man,  who  belonged  to  a. 
tribe  which  had  been  under  the  instruction  of  the 
Danish  missionaries,  had  first  come  over  to  the  British 
isles  in  a  whaling-ship,  having  a  great  desire  to 
make  acquaintance  with  the  English,  and  to  acquire 
the  art  of  drawing.     Hie  attractive  appearance  and 


SACKH0U8E. 


)pose(i  Polar  expedi- 

thougb  he  had  been 

,  he  seized  his  pen 

cold  was  all  one  to 

is  friend  to  Sir  John 

at  he  was  the  right 

appointed  second  in 

pril,  1818,  that  the 
tiled  from  Deptford, 
able  instruments  for 
ations  in  astronomy, 
her  sciences- 
intended  for  the  use 
al  Artillery,  who,  on 
attainments,  and  his 
[lematical  and  astro- 
particularly  requested 

most  valuable  person, 
d  bad  obtained  leave 

laux  of  the  name  of 
his  second  visit  to 
,  who  belonged  to  a 
the  instruction  of  the 
)me  over  to  the  British 
ag  a  great  desire  to 
nglish,  and  to  acquire 
active  appearance  and 


manners  at  once  gained  him  friends.  He  was  kindly 
treated,  instructed  in  English,  and  sent  back  to 
his  own  country  the  next  year,  either  to  stay  there 
or  return  as  he  pleased.  On  his  arrival  he  found 
that  a  sister,  his  only  relation,  had  died  during  his 
absence,  and  he  therefore  decided  on  the  latter 
course. 

Mr.  Nasmyth,  the  artist,  then  took  him  in  hand, 
ar.d  iwon  after  Captain  Basil  Hall  recommended  him 
as  interpreter  for  this  first  Arctic  voyage.  We  call 
it  the  first,  because  Ross's  was  the  first  of  this  century. 
We  shall  soon  see  how  invaluable  the  Esquimaux 
proved :  he  was  to  have  been  sent  out  again  with 
Liauienant  Parry,  but  in  the  meantime,  while  on  a 
visit  to  his  friends  in  Edinburgh,  he  was  seized 
with  an  inflammatory  complaint  and  speedily  sank. 

It  has  long  been  the  fashion  to  speak  of  the 
countrymen  of  this  sociable,  intelligent,  and  kind- 
hearted  young  man,  as  below  the  standard  of  ordinary 
savages,  but  Sackhouse  was  the  first  to  prove  that 
an  Esquimaux  may  be  a  very  fine  fellow  in  every 
sense  of  the  word.  His  kindness  to  children  had 
been  remarked  at  Leith,  where,  meeting  two  little 
ones  on  a  snowy  day  shivering  with  cold,  he  took 
off  some  of  his  own  clothes,  and  wrapping  them 
caretuUy  round  them,  brought  them  safely  home. 
He  soon  became  a  favourite  on  board  the  '  Isabella,' 
on  account  of  his  self-denying  good-nature  ;  and  he 
is  also  described  as  *  unaffectedly  pious.'  He  died 
with  an  Icelandic  Catechism  in  his  hand,  thanking 
his  friends  for  their  kindness ;  but  telling  them  that 


70 


SIR  JOHN  ROSS. 


it  was   of  no  use,  for  his   sister  had  appeared   to 
him  and  called  him  away. 

The  instructions  given  to  Captain  Ross  at  start- 
ing were  very  clear  and    explicit.     Before  leaving 
Shetland,  where  he  was  to  meet  the  vessels  'Do- 
rothea'  and   'Trent,'   which  were   to   attempt  the 
passage  by  the  Pole,  he  was  to  fix  on  a  rendezvous 
in    the  Pacific.    If  there,  or  elsewhere,  he  should 
meet  with  them,  he   was  to  take  them  under  his 
command;    and    despatches  were    to    be    prepared 
and  sent  home  by  every  possible  opportunity.     He 
was  to  sail  direct  to  Baffin's  Bay,  and,  if  fortunate 
enough  to  find  a  passage,  he  was  then  to  endeavou; 
to  make  his  way  along  the  north  of  America  to  Beh- 
ring's  Straits,  and  through  them  to  the  rendezvous 
in  the  Pacific,  returning  liomc  next  year,  if  possible, 
by  the  same  way.    But  if  not  able  to  do  that,  he  was 
to  edge  down  to  the  north  coast  of  the  American 
Continent,  and  winter  there  as  comfortably  as  he 
could.     Particular  directions  were  also  given  that, 
should  he  meet  with  cither  Indians  or  Esquimaux, 
he  was  to  cultivate  a  friendship  with  them  ;  and  for 
that  purpose  he  was  supplied  with  all  kinds  of  arti- 
cles likely  to  be  agreeable  to  them;  so  that  thus 
they  were  to  be  induced  to  carry  an  accoimt  of  the 
situation  of  the  crew  to  any  settlements  of  the  Hud- 
son's Bay  or  North-west  Companies,  with  an  urgent 
request  that  it  should  instantly  be  transmitted  to 
England. 

It  was  also  said  that,  although  the  first  object  of 
the  voyage  was  to  discover  a  passage  from  Davis's 


■^1f»a«'}}';fpi-f. 


ad  appeared   to 

in  Ross  at  start- 
Before  leaving 
he  vessels  '  Do- 
to   attempt  the 
on  a  rendezvous 
here,  he  should 
them  under  his 
to    be    prepared 
sportunity.     He 
md,  if  fortunate 
en  to  endeavoui 
America  to  Beh- 
>  the  rendezvous 
year,  if  possible, 
0  do  that,  he  was 
of  the  American 
>mfortably  as  he 
also  given  that, 
IS  or  Esquimaux, 
h  them  ;  and  for 
dl  kinds  of  arti- 
im ;  so  that  thus 
m  account  of  the 
lent  8  of  the  Hud- 
i,  with  an  tirgent 
>e  transmitted  to 

the  first  object  of 
jage  from  Davis's 


li|Mi»-< 


DEPARTURE  OF  THE  FOUR  VESSELS. 


71 


Strait  along  the  north  coast  of  America;  yet,  so 
far  as  could  be  done  without  hindrance  to  the  expe- 
dition, every  facility  was.to  be  given  to  the  oflBcers, 
and  especially  to  Captain  Sabine,  for  adding  to  the 
geographical  knowledge  of  those  regions,  and  for 
contributing  to  the  advance  of  science  in  general : 
besides  which,  he  was  to  cause  views  of  bays  and 
headlands  to  be  taken,  and  charts  to  be  made;  in 
which  work  Lieutenant  Hoppner,  a  very  skilful 
draughtsman,  was  to  be  employed. 

Great  stress  was  laid  on  the  ships  keeping  toge- 
ther. And  we  must  not  omit  to  mention  that  both 
vessels  were  supplied  with  printed  papers,  which 
were  to  be  filled  up  with  date  and  position  each  day, 
enclosed  in  bottles,  and  thrown  overboard.  These 
papers  contained  a  request  in  several  languages, 
that  the  captain  of  any  vessel  that  picked  thepi  up 
would  forward  them  to  England  as  soon  as  possible. 

On  the  30tli  of  April  the  four  ships  met  at  Ler- 
wick, in  Shetland,  and  started  on  their  respective 
expeditions;  nor  is  it  surprising  that  after  such 
elaborate  preparations  the  highest  ..opes  prevailed 
generally  as  to  their  success. 

They  soon  began  their  Arctic  life ;  for  when  only 
half  way  to  Grreenland  they  met  with  their  first  ice- 
berg, which  appeared  to  be  about  40  feet  high 
and  1000  long.  The  magnificence  of  such  an 
object  as  it  comes  riuing  through  the  ocean,  and 
assummg  an  endless  number  of  fantastic  forms,  can 
hardly  be  conceived.  A  white  lion,  some  of  the 
sailors  called  it;  others,  a  horse  rampant;  and  others, 


72 


SIR  JOHN  ROSS. 


the  omen  of  all  good  luck,  namely,  the  lion  and  uni- 
corn on  the  British  arms.  Another  seen  shortly  after 
formec  a  kind  of  crystal  tunnel. 

0'  I  the  Ist  of  June  the  vessels  had  passed  Cape 
Farewell,  the  most  southerly  point  of  Greenland, 
and  were  in  sight  of  Coqiiin's  Sound,  where  old 
Baffin  went  to  refresh  his  men  on  his  return  from 
his  last  voyage ;  and  now  they  were  in  the  midst  of 
icebergs  and  floating  fields  of  ice. 

Let  us  stop  here  and  try  to  picture  to  ourselves 
their  position,  and  the  strange  kind  of  scenery  through 
which  they  were  about  to  pass.  The  west  coast  of 
Greenland  is,  like  that  of  Norway,  beset  with  many 
rocky  islands,  and  cut  up  by  numerous  dtep  inlets 
of  the  sea,  of  a  singular  shape,  wldch  bometimes 
wind  like  rivers  for  80  or  100  miles  into  the 
interior.  These  are  called,  like  those  of  Norway, 
fiords.  Danish  names  also  are  found  in  all  maps  of 
Greenland,  although  of  late  we  hive  given  a  fo\i 
English  ones  to  certain  points.  For,  after  Frobi.iier 
had  re-discovered  the  country,  and  Davis  oAd  ex- 
plored its  coi^ts,  the  Danes  and  Norwegians  agiv^j. 
visited  and  colonized  it;  sc  th  it  we  sometimes  find 
it  called  Danish  America. 

These  deep  inlets  of^gn  hav  a  wO'lly  romantic 
appearance.  They  are  Lemmed  .•  i^  ^^r^y  moun- 
tain barriers,  whose  tops  are  hidden  in  the  clouds, 
and  which  generally  terminate  in  glaciers;  which 
are  gradually  pushed  forwards  by  the  plains  of  ice 
behind,  until  they  roof  in  the  fiord,  or  stretch  out, 
like  bold  headlands,  into  the  sea.     Underneath  the 


ft  •''«»WK,'i.:'li>»'Sfl.:'V",., 


le  lion  and  uni- 
en  shortly  after 

ad  passed  Cape 
of  Oreenland, 
ind,  where  old 
iiis  return  from 
in  the  midst  of 

lire  to  ourselves 

scenery  through 

»e  west  coast  of 

eset  with  many 

ous  deep  inlets 

L.ich   bometimes 

niles    into   the 

ose  of  Norway, 

d  in  ail  maps  of 

ve  given  a  foM 

after  Frobi  aer 

Davift  had  ex- 

)rwegians  agtnj. 

sometimes  find 

mW.y  7omjtD*ic 
h\  .-,  iv  moun- 
I  in  the  clouds, 
glaciers;  which 
tie  plains  of  ice 
or  stretch  out. 
Underneath  the 


T^' 


•'!:•!■:•., 


i  i^-^iti^^i^t^^ffdj  A  ,-t^.r 


DANISH  MlSSION'a. 


75 


surge  is  gradually  undermining  them ;  and  tit  last 
they  fall  with  the  noise  of  thurder  into  the  sea, 
which  is  thus  set  boiling  for  many  miles  around.     ' 

These  falling  masses — of  which  one  traveller  saw 
twenty-three  descending  at  once — form  the  icebergs, 
which  are  then  either  carried  away  by  currents,  or 
stranded  on  the  Arctic  coasts ;  and  as  the  ice  is  very 
transparent,  they  are  often  seen  glittering  in  the  sun- 
light in  blue,  green,  and  orange  tints,  which  contrast 
beautifully  with  the  gloomy  rocks,  or  with  the  white- 
ness of  the  vast  plains  of  snow. 

There  are,  however,  comparatively  warm  and 
sheltered  spots  even  in  Greenland ;  and  along  the 
banks  of  the  southern  fiords  there  are  meadows,  in 
which  stunted  beech  and  \^illow-trees  may  be  seen, 
and  where  the  service-tree  bears  fruit.  For  there 
it  is  that  Danish  colonists  and  missionaries  have 
formed  their  settlements ;  but  the  Esquimaux  are 
found  up  to  the  very  north  of  Baffin's  Bay. 

We  have  spoken  of  the  Danish  missions  more 
than  once ;  and  though  it  may  interrupt  our  narrative 
for  a  few  minutes,  yet  this  will  be  the  most  suitable 
place  in  which  to  speak  of  their  origin  and  history. 

Little  enough  did  the  two  Venetian  brothers — 
Acthony  and  Nicolas  Zeno — ever  dream  that  their 
voyage  and  shipwreck  would  be  connected  with  any- 
thing of  the  kind ;  but  so  it  was. 

'  God  moves  in  a  mysterious  way 
His  wonders  to  perform  ; 
He  plants  His  footsteps  in  the  sea, 
And  rides  upon  the  storm.' 


76 


SIR  JOHN  ROSS. 


Strange  and  wonderful  legend )  are  connected 
with  the  countries  of  the  Scandinavian  race ;  and 
children  love  such  tales. 

So  the  Norwegian  hoy,  Hans  Egede,  listened  and 
wondered  to  the  legends  of  his  fatherland ;  and  among 
them  was  one  which'  he  could  never  forget.  It  was 
the  traditions  of  the  Zenos;  and  it  told  how  they 
not  only  were  cost  away  on  the  shores  of  Greenland, 
but  found  there  whole  villages  peopled  by  Christians. 

True  it  was  that  no  confirmation  was  added  by 
seamen  and  merchants  who  had  visited  those  shores : 
yet,  for  all  that,  as  Hans  Egede  grew,  the  tale  took 
stronger  and  stronger  possession  of  his  mind. 

He  entered  the  ministry,  married,  had  four 
children,  and  became  parish-priest  ofVogen,  in  the 
north  of  Norway ;  but  still  thoughts  of  Greenland, 
and  its  deep  need,  haunted  him  day  and  night. 

Every  one  laughed  at  the  scheme  ;  for  missions 
were  then  no  recognised  work  of  the  Church :  his 
friends,  and  even  his  own  wife,  opposed  it.  But 
those  words  of  his  Saviour  overbore  everything  else, 
— 'Whosoever  loveth  father  or  mother  more  than 
M(  ,  is  not  worthy  of  Me.'     And  he  had  no  rest. 

At  last  his  wife  gave  way.  She  saw  his  earnest 
desire,  and  declared  that  she  would  renounce  every- 
thing for  i  is  sake.  By  'lis  advice  she  spread  the 
matter  befo-e  God  in  prayer,  and  soon  became  more 
eager  to  go  taan  she  had  been  to  stay. 

Then  he  applied  to  the  Mission  College ;  but  they 
advised  patience.  He,  however,  had  already  waited 
long ;  and  now  even  the  tale  of  a  ship's  crew,  wrecked 


are   connected 
ian  race ;  and 

le,  listened  and 
id ;  and  among 
ibrget.  It  was 
told  how  they 
)  of  Greenland, 
1  by  Christians. 
,  was  added  by 
d  those  shores: 
J,  the  tale  took 
j  mind. 

ried,  had  fotir 
F  Vogen,  in  the 
I  of  Greenland, 
and  night. 
B ;  for  missions 
le  Church :  his 
posed  it.  But 
everything  else, 
ther  more  than 
had  no  rest, 
saw  his  earnest 
renounce  every- 
she  spread  the 
>n  became  more 

r 

)llege ;  but  they 

already  waited 

's  crew,  wrecked 


m\ 


HANS  RGEDK. 


77 


and  niiu-dered  on  the  Greenland  shores,  did  not  deter 
him  from  goi'ig  himself  to  the  king,  and  pressing  liis 
project.  Difficulties  now  vanished  one  after  another. 
The  king  gave  him  a  favourable  hearing ;  2000/.  were 
raised;  the  'Hope'  vessel  bought;  and  on  3rd  July, 
1710,  the  Norwegian  family  landed  on  the  island  of 
Kangek. 

But  this  brave  missionary  was  to  be  only  a  sower : 
others  entered  in  and  reaped  the  fruits.  In  sorrow 
and  bitterness  of  soul  he  laboured  on  for  fifteen  long 
years;  nor  was  he  ever  permitted  to  see  a  single  con- 
vert. At  first  the  natives  feared  him,  and  called  their 
sorcerers  to  drive  him  from  their  land  :  but  their  op- 
position soon  passed  away ;  and  when  he  could  speak 
the  language  he  began  to  prepare  the  ground,  by 
telling  them  of  the  Creation,  the  Fall,  and  other 
Bible  stories. 

The  story  of  a  Saviour's  love  he  seems,  from  a 
mistaken  notion,  to  have  kept  until  the  minds  of  the 
people  were  prepared  for  it ;  and  thus  their  hearts 
remained  untouched :  for  what  else  could  melt 
them  ?  At  length  Christian  IV.,  who  had  always 
stood  his  friend,  died,  and  his  successor  resolved 
to  abandon  the  colony ;  and  though  permission 
was  given  to  Egede  to  remain  if  he  would,  he 
was  told  that  no  further  help  would  be  given  to 
the  mission.  Yet  he  and  his  wife  still  decided  to 
etay,  while  their  eldest  son  was  sent  to  Europe  to  be 
educated  for  the  same  work.  Their  faitli  never 
failed,  though  it  was  sorely  tried.  It  was  when  in 
the   decline   of  life   that   Hans  Egede    received    a 


■I 


i"t'r'*"*""' 


i 


.^$  HI  R  JOHN  R08H. 

request  from  tlio  kiiij?  that  he  wouUl  return  to  luH 
native  land.  Then,  looking  on  it  as  an  intimation 
of  God's  will,  he  went,  leaving  his  son  to  carry  on 
his  lalrours. 

His  farewell  Hornion  was  from  the  words, '  I  have 
laboured  in  vain  and  spent  my  strength  for  notight : 
yet  surely  my  judgment  is  with  the  Lord,  and  my 
work  with  my  God ;'  and  he  went  back  to  teach  the 
language  of  the  Esquimaux  to  future  labourers:  for 
ere  this  others  had  presented  themselves,  and  the 
Moravian  Church  had  stepped  in  to  continue  the 
work,  and  to  carry  across  the  waters  that  story  of 
peace  which  soon  bowed  the  heart  of  many  a 
Greenlander. 

The  settlement  of  Hernhutt  had  been  formed 
about  this  time,  by  many  of  that  persecuted  Church 
who  had  found  a  refuge  on  the  estates  of  the  good 
Count  Zinzendorf.  And  to  this  praying  people  he  and 
one  of  their  chief  leaders  sent  word  that  the  Danish 
mission  was  abandoned  by  the  Government;  on 
which  several  of  them  gladly  offered  themselves,  and 
soon  joined  the  '  Api^stle  of  Greenland.'  Nor  was 
it  long  after  his  departure  that,  after  hearing  the 
history  of  the  Crucifixion,  one  of  the  natives  rose  and 
earnestly  cried,  '  Tell  me  that  again,  for  I  would  fain 
be  saved  too ;'  and  soon  similar  results  followed  the 
preaching  all  along  tlie  coast,  and  around  the  market 
of  Disco  the  very  rocks  resounded  to  the  song  of 
praise.  It  is  intere.sting  to  know  that  not  only 
Egede's  son,  but  also  his  grandson,  laboured  in  the 
same  field. 


..stiiiiiiKietfsmmmn 


■'—'*■""■'  ■ ""  "'  Tfiimr^ 


--Ti^i*'***" 


(1  return  to  his 

Hn  intimation 

on  to  carry  on 

I  words, '  I  liave  > 
jth  for  nought : 
)  Lord,  and  my 
ick  to  teach  the 
!  labourers :  for 
solves,  and  the 
o  continue  the 
a  that  story  of 
jrt  of    many   a 

,d  been  formed 
raeouted  Church 
tes  of  the  good 
ig  people  he  and 
that  the  Danish 
overnment ;  on 
themselves,  and 
and.'  Nor  was 
ter  hearing  the 
natives  rose  and 
for  I  would  fain 
dts  followed  the 
3und  the  market 
to  the  song  of 
'  that  not  only 
laboured  in  the 


SCKNfcS  AMIDST  TlIK  ICKHKHOS. 


70 


But  to  return  to  our  narrative.  U  was  soirn'tinioH 
(piite  iuipo8Hibh>  for  the  vessels  to  proceed  on  account 
of  the  obstruction  of  the  ice;  and  when  this  was  the 
case  the  plan  ivas  to  make  the  sliip  fast  to  an  ice- 
lierg,  on  to  which  most  of  the  ship's  crew  generally 
turned  out,  and  which  for  the  time  being  became  an 
observatory. 

Lieutenant  Parry  speaks  of  one  such  scene  as 
'  magnificent  beyond  all  description.'  •  One  half  of 
the  horizon,'  he  says,  'that  to  the  eastward,  was  oc- 
cupied by  the  bleak  hills  of  Greenland,  and  some  of 
its  islands  not  more  than  two  miles  from  us.  Within 
a  few  miles  all  around  us  the  water  was  clear; 
but  the  whole  of  the  western  horizon,  from  land 
round  to  land,  was  covered  with  innumerable  masses 
of  ice  packed  together.  Here  and  there  a  tn  men- 
dous  herg  appeared — each  assuming  some  peculiar 
fantastic  shape.'  '  If  the  scene  around  were  grand,' 
he  goes  on,  '  that  upon  the  iceberg  was  not  less 
interesting.  In  one  part  was  to  be  seen  a  group 
attentively  employed  in  making  the  requisite  ob- 
servations. In  another,  a  pa r/y  of  sportsmen  firing 
at  the  numerous  loons,  mallemukes,  kittewakes, 
&c.  Below  were  the  boats  taking  ice  on  board  for 
water.  Here  and  there  a  sailor  or  two  amusing 
themselves  in  sliding  down  from  the  top  of  the  ice 
to  the  valley  below.  The  whole  scene  was  extremely 
interesting  and  novel.  We  were  employed  in  exe- 
cuting some  of  the  most  important  obje-^-ts  of  our  mis- 
sion, and  this  alone  would  have  riade  it  delightful.' 

On  one  occasion,  when  the  scientific  proceedings 


'  i 


J  ):a 


•0 


Riii  JOHN  now. 


wero  iiitt'rniptt'il  by  tho  non-iippfftraiico  oftlio  huh, 
both  t»fl[i4;orH  and  men  ongnged  in  u  mock  fight ;  thoHt- 
who  hiwl  gained  tho  Hunnnit  of  th«  l)erg  pelting 
tho«o  bchtw  with  Hnow-ballH  —  'a  pkuiHing  proof,' 
Parry  reuiarkH,  '  of  tho  good  undorHtanding  and  good 
humour  iiat  exintod  among  the  crewH.  Tlie  two  com- 
manderH  were,  therefore,  evidently  free  from  the  great 
difticulty  which  had  balked  80  many  of  their  brave 
predecoHHors,  namely,  murmura  among  their  men. 

.Slowly,  and  witli  difficulty,  they  matle  their  way 
up  to  Waygatt  Strait,  wliich  Heparates  tlie  inland  of 
Disco  from  Greenland;  and  here  they  fell  in  with  a 
fleet  of  '"itween  twenty  and  thirty  English  whalerm, 
who  were  waiting  for  the  ico  to  open.  It  was  a 
proud  Bight  for  on  Englih)ima«,  as  Parry  observed, 
and  gave  that  frozen  region  the  appearance  of  a 
flourishing  sea-port. 

Here  they  endeavoured  to  gain  information  from 
the  young  Danish  governor  respecting  the  state  of 
the  ice;  but  his  report  was  discouraging:  for  the 
last  two  winters  the  Danes  had  not  been  able  to  com- 
municate with  their  northern  settleraenta,  and  had 
been  obliged  to  kill  their  dogs  for  food  because  they 
could  not  procure  seals ;  and  this  year  the  bay  and 
harbours,  whicli  were  generally  open  in  March,  still 
continued  sliut.  Yet,  though  they  were  surrounded 
with  ice,  the  weather  continued  hot  and  sultry. 

At  Waygatt  Island  a  party  of  Esquimaux  came 
on  board ;  and  now  the  powers  of  their  interpreter, 
John  Sackhouse,  were  brought  into  play.  He  was 
charmed  to  introduce  his  countrymen  and  country- 


^ 


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c  iHTfj  peliiiig 
pliiUHing  pruotV 
ndiiif{  and  good 
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o  from  the  greut 
y  of  their  brave 
ig  their  men. 
made  their  way 
es  titu  itfland  of 
y  fell  in  with  a 
DngliHh  wliuleru, 
pen.  It  was  a 
Parry  observed, 
p{)earanoe  of  a 

nformation  from 
ing  the  state  of 
raging:  for  the 
een  able  to  com- 
smentfl,  and  had 
lod  because  they 
ear  the  bay  and 

in  March,  still 
vere  surrounded 
ind  sultry, 
ilsquimaux  came 
leir  interpreter, 

play.     He  was 
3n  and  count  ry- 


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7 


■.^  y  M^y^wiK.'^«a»i««|i»iii 


VISIT  FROM  NORTHERN  ESQUIMAUX. 


83 


women,  and  as  these  had  been  under  the  instnic- 
tions  of  the  Danish  missionary  he  had  no  cause  to 
be  ashamed  of  them. 

Captain  Ross  asked  of  them  a  sledge  and  dog,  of- 
fering them  a  riHe  in  exchange.  They  immediately 
went  to  fetch  them,  but  refused  to  accept  the  pay- 
ment until  they  had  produced  the  sledge;  which 
was  soon  brought  in  a  boat,  managed  by  five  women 
dressed  in  seal-skins.  Their  canoes  are,  probably, 
the  old  kajaks  seen  by  Frobisher;  but  this  boat 
was  of  a  different  kind,  and  was  called  an  '  oomiack,' 
or  women's  boat.  Two  of  the  women  who  rowed  it 
were  daughters  of  a  Danish  resident  and  an  Esqui- 
maux mother.  The  visitors  were  all  invited  on 
board,  where  they  were  charmed  by  having  their 
portraits  taken ;  after  which  they  danced  Scotch  reels 
on  the  deck  with  the  sailors,  to  the  excessive  delight 
of  Sackhouse,  who  acted  the  part  of  mabter  of  the 
ceremonies,  paying  particular  attention  to  one  of  the 
half-Danish  young  ladies,  a  girl  of  about  eighteen, 
and,  without  question,  the  belle  of  the  party. 

One  of  the  officers,  noticing  his  preference,  gave 
him  a  lady's  shawl,  ornamented  with  spangles,  as  a 
present  for  her;  which  the  young  man  immediately 
offered  in  a  graceful  and  respectful  manner,  and 
which  was  received  with  a  bashful  but  eloquent 
smile,  the  fair  one  taking  a  pewter  ring  from  her 
finger  and  presenting  it  in  return. 

Sackhouse  accompanied  his  country-folk  oii 
shore,  but  next  day,  nothing  having  been  heard  of 
him,  messengers  were  sent  to  search  for  him ;  when 


iji 


m 


iJi  < 


.-m 


84 


SIR  JOHN  BOSS. 


he  was  found  in  a  hut  with  his  collar-hone  broken. 
Having  gone  to  look  for  specimens  of  natural  his- 
tory, he  thought  'plenty  powder,  plenty  kill;'  and 
so  caused  a  recoil  of  his  gun  by  overloading  it.  It 
was  some  time  before  this  was  quite  cured. 

Sixteen  days  after  reaching  Disco  Island  the 
ships  passed  the  second  barrier  of  ice,  and  found 
themselves  oflf  Sanderson's  Hope.  And  here  a  very 
curious  instance  of  unequal  refraction  was  noticed: 
some  of  those  whaling-vessels,  which  were  only  two 
or  three  miles  off,  appearing  to  be  drawn  up  to  an 
enormous  height ;  while  those  more  distant  seem.'d 
flavtened  to  the  surface  of  the  water. 

The  little  group  of  islands  to  which,  because 
some  native  women  were  seen  hiding  behind  the  rocks, 
Baffin  had  given  the  name  of  Women's  Islands,  were 
now  in  sight :  but  why  they  worked  up  this  eastern 
side  of  Baffin's  Bay  at  all  it  is  not  easy  to  under- 
stand ;  as,  of  course,  the  passage  could  not  possibly 
be  discovered  there :  but  Ross  had  utterly  misunder- 
stood h?s  instnxctions,  as  we  see  by  his  calling  the 
accouat,  which  he  drew  up  afterwards,  a  voyage  made 
*  for  the  purpose  of  exploring  Baffin's  Bay.' 

Under  this  delusion  he  continued  coasting  along 
northward,  taking  advantage  of  every  passage  through 
the  ice ;  and  when  the  ships  were  unable  to  sail,  having 
them  towed  along  by  the  boatfl.  Sometim^js  all  the 
crew  would  turn  out,  and,  led  by  the  Scotch  fiddler, 
"ould  haul  the  ships  along.  But  the  ice  was  moving 
rapidly,  and  breaking  up ;  so  that,  from  time  to  time, 
they  came  to  a  weak  place,  and  one  and  another 


^im.- 


-■  i...W.'i*ii»'*'*-"w»Wn>Mn«p I'l'iiiiiiiMw'    II  It 


THE  VESSELS  TWICE  IN  DANGER. 


85 


ar-bone  broken. 

of  natural  his- 
lenty  kill;'  and 
rloading  it.     It 
cured, 
isco  Island  the 

ice,  and  found 
^nd  here  a  very 
on  was  noticed: 
1  were  only  two 
drawn  up  to  an 
!  distant  seem.'d 

which,  because 
aehind  the  rocks, 
a's  Islands,  were 

up  this  eastern 
;  easy  to  under- 
iild  not  possibly 
tterly  misunder- 

bis  calling  the 
s,  a  voyage  made 
s  Bay.' 

d  coasting  along 
passage  through 
t)le  to  sail,  having 
ometimes  all  the 
e  Scotch  fiddler, 
e  ice  was  moving 
om  time  to  time, 
»ne  and  another 


v,'ould  fall  in.  However,  as  they  never  let  go  the 
rope,  they  were  soon  hauled  out  again :  and  these 
little  incidents  furnished  considerable  amusement  for 
the  sailors. 

All  this  time  they  were  still  in  the  company  of 
whalers ;  yet  even  before  they  left  the  fishing-ground 
they  were  placed  in  great  danger  by  the  ships  being 
dashed  one  against  another,  with  such  violence  that, 
but  for  their  immense  strength,  they  must  have  been 
broken  to  pieces.  This  concussion  was  caused  by 
the  rapid  movement  of  the  ice  ;  and  they  were  thank- 
ful to  escape  with  only  damaged  rigging. 

A  greater  peril  soon  succeeded.  The  ice  was 
moving  in  large  masses  called  'floes.'  These  are 
much  the  same  as  *  fields,'  except  that  the  extent  of 
the  latter  cannot  be  seen  from  the  mast-head.  To 
one  of  these  •  floes,'  supposed  to  be  stationary,  the 
vessels  had  been  moored  after  the  catastrophe  just 
mentioned ;  probably  in  order  to  undergo  repairs. 
Suddenly  this  floe  was  found  to  be  drifting  straight 
on  to  some  stranded  icebergs,  and  all  hands  were  set 
to  cut  a  dock :  that  is,  to  saw  a  hole  in  the  ice  large 
enough  to  receive  the  ships. 

This  is  done  in  order  to  prevent  their  being 
'nipped'  between  two  floes. 

The  dock  was  just  ready,  though  happily  the 
vessels  had  not  entered  it,  when  the  very  part  in 
which  it  had  been  cut  struck  with  such  violence 
against  the  berg,  that  it  was  forced  at  least  £fty 
feet  up  its  side,  and  the  pieces  scattered  in  all 
directions 


•'I 


86 


SIR  JOHN  ROSS. 


Ha  I  the  ships  been  docked,  they  must  instantly 
have  b(!en  crushed  to  atoms. 

Something  of  this  kind,  indeed,  happened  to  a 
whaling- vessel  in  tbuir  sight,  and  the  crew  barely 
escaped  with  their  lives. 

At  length,  on  the  8th  of  August,  a  point  was 
reached  which  seems  to  have  been  hitherto  unvisited 
by  Europeans,  and  on  a  little  island  some  of  the  crew 
landed,  and  foimd  some  of  those  piles  of  stones 
which  indicate  an  Esquimaux  burial-ground,  but 
no  natives. 

Soon  after  they  had  returned  to  the  ship,  however, 
some  sledges  were  seen  rapidly  coming  over  the  ice ; 
but  when  Sackhouse,  on  their  approach,  hailed  them 
in  a  loud  voice,  they  seemed  not  to  understand  him : 
nor  could  he  at  first  comprehend  their  reply. 

After  looking  at  the  ship  for  some  time  in  silence 
they  suddenly  turned,  and  rapidly  made  their  way 
back  again  :  nor  did  any  of  them  re-appear  for  many 
hours.  Presents  were  carried  ashore,  and  white  flags 
hoisted,  in  token  of  peace ;  and  at  last  a  few  were 
seen  timidly  approaching.  Then  Sackhouse,  whose 
eagerness  was  only  equalled  by  the  tact  which  he  dis- 
played, obtained  leave  to  go  ashore. 

After  exchanging  many  shouts,  he  thought  that 
he  perceived  that  they  were  only  using  a  very  drawl- 
ing dialect  of  his  own  language,  and  immediately 
called  to  them,  ^Kahkeite  —  Come  on;'  to  which 
they  answered,  'Naahne  naakrieai-plaite  —  No ;  go 
away ;'  and  one  added,  drawing  a  knife  from  his 
boot,  *I  can  kill  you.' 


jjif '•.'»l*arl-.i»&--f-  -r-TfVft    ■ .  .«  lUiMt 


must  instantly 

,  happened  to  a 
;lie  crew  barely 

st,  a  point  was 
therto  unvisited 
ome  of  the  crew 
piles  of  stones 
al  -  ground,  but 

le  ship,  however, 
ag  over  the  ice ; 
ich,  hailed  them 
inderstand  him : 
ir  reply. 

le  time  in  silence 
made  their  way 
appear  for  many 
>  and  white  flags 
last  a  few  were 
iackhouse,  whose 
let  which  he  dis- 

he  thought  that 
ng  a  very  drawl- 
md  immediately 
I  on;'  to  which 
plaite  —  No ;  go 
knife  from  his 


tij. 


■v.r 


ii^^fe^6i!*Si!f:Mi-if''^Sisi)»(0j^U'=i^ 


s;;*s;&i«ifit.-it;j 


J 


? jiitfijii'iiiuiiiif  ij  Vijijt  ■  i  WiilEJMiu  , 


ROSS'S  ARCTIC  HiailLAMDERS. 


89 


But  Sackhouse  was  not  at  all  HiHheartened,  and 
only  threw  them  Bome  beads,  a  shirt,  and,  lastly,  an 
English  knife ;  on  seeing  which  latter  they  picked  it 
up,  shouting,  ^ Heigh  yaw!*  and  pulling  their  noses. 
He  repeated  the  words  and  actions,  and  something 
like  friendship  wnH  established,  so  that  they  began 
to  ask  questions. 

Pointing  to  the  ships,  they  asked,  '  What  those 
great  creaturf-s  were,  and  whether  they  came  fro'tn 
the  sun  or  .he  moon  ? '  His  answer,  however, 
was  not  credited  ;  for,  when  he  told  them  that  they 
were  houses  made  of  wood,  they  replied, —  'No; 
they  are  alive  :  we  have  seen  them  move  th/»ir 
wings.' 

His  account  of  himself,  *  that  he  came  from  the 
south,'  was  also  as  little  believed,  for  they  said, — 
'  That  could  not  be ;  there  was  only  ice  there,' 

At  length,  as  they  could  not  be  induced  to  enter 
the  ship.  Captain  Ross  and  Lieutenant  Parry,  who  were 
both  eager  to  communicate  with  these  strange  beings, 
took  a  number  of  presents,  among  which  were  some 
looking-glasses,  and  went  ashore.  This  caused  fresh 
alarm  among  them,  and  they  were  again  about  to 
retreat  when  Sackhouse  called  to  the  oflBcers  to  pull 
their  noses  and  shout,  *  Heigh  yaw!*  Then  the  Esqui- 
maux came  on,  each  receiving,  as  they  did  so,  a 
knife  and  a  lookiug-glass.  It  would  be  difficult  to 
describe  their  utter  astonishment  on  seeing  their  own 
faces  in  the  glass.  Shouts  and  laughter  succeeded 
to  the  perfect  silence  which  prevailed  for  the  first 
minute  or  two;  and  the  English  officers,  partly  to 


00 


Mill  JOHN  R0S8. 


oxpreHH  their  good  feeling,  and  partly  because  they 
could  not  help  it,  nioHt  gladly  and  heartily  joined  in 
the  laugh. 

Ah  they  proceeded,  much  intercHt  was  excited 
among  the  crew  by  the  crimson  fti)pearance  of  the 
snow  ;  and  a  few  of  them  were  sent  on  shore  to  pro- 
cure some  of  it,  when  it  waH  discovered  to  be  of  the 
same  colour  to  the  depth  of  ten  or  twelve  feet.  The 
discovery,  however,  was  no  new  one,  for  crimson  snow 
has  l)een  found  on  the  Alps,  and  in  Spitzbergen,  while 
Pliny  and  other  ancient  writers  have  mentioned  it ; 
but  scientific  men  differ  as  to  its  origin. 

They  continued  to  receive  visits  from  their  new 
friends,  or  from  others  who  had  heard  of  the  English 
visitors  through  them,  and  they  finally  took  leave  of 
them,  feeling  that  at  least  they  had  thoroughly  im- 
pressed this  new  idea  on  their  minds  —  that  their 
tribe  did  not  include  the  whole  population  of  the 
world.  Captain  Ross  bestowed  the  name  of  'The 
Arctic  Highlands '  on  the  country. 

Cape  Dudley  Digges  was  soon  after  passed,  and 
Smith's  Sound  was  now  in  sight;  but  instead  of 
thoroughly  examining  this,  and  ascertaining  whether 
it  were  in  truth  a  sound  or  a  strait,  they  passed  it  at 
a  distance,  and  in  the  same  way  sailed  by  Jones' 
Sound  on  the  west  of  the  bay.  Thus  Captain  Ross 
lost  the  merit  of  discovering  that  both  of  these  are 
really  straits. 

On  the  30th,  the  water  to  the  westward  being 
observed  to  be  almost  free  from  ice,  the  two  vessels 
made  direct  for  Lancaster  Sound. 


'■■»^.;ft»U'.  ^■^**"-t*3»,''" 


<'iX:  ...      i^.  -. 


THK  VESHRI-S  IK  LANr'AHTKR  HorND. 


91 


ly  ))ecauHe  they 
eartily  joined  in 

eMt  waH  excited 
)peurnnce  of  the 
on  Bhore  to  pro- 
*red  to  l)e  of  the 
velve  feet.  The 
for  'jrimson  buow 
pitzbergen,  while 
ve  mentioned  it ; 
igin. 

B  from  their  new 
rd  of  the  English 
illy  took  leave  of 
I  thoroughly  im- 
ind8  —  that  their 
opulation  of  the 
le  name  of  'The 

after  passed,  and 
;  but  instead  of 
srtoining  whether 
they  passed  it  at 
sailed  by  Jones' 
tius  Captain  Ross 
both  of  these  are 

)  westward  being 
e,  the  two  vessels 


And  here  the  accounts  of  the  two  coniniunderH 
are  coujpletely  at  variance.  Perhaps  old  Baffin's 
nurrativ«)  had  nuido  a  different  iinpreNHion  on  their 
minds;  but  iw  Parry's  turned  out  to  be  tiie  correct 
opinion,  it  will  be  best  to  follow  his  narrative  of  the 
proceedings. 

The  'crow's  nest'  and  'mast-head*  were  at  this 
point  constantly  crowded,  he  tells  us  ;  '  for  the  ex- 
pectations of  many  were  raiHed  to  the  highest  pitch. 
Hera,'  he  continues,  '  Baffin's  hopes  of  a  passage 
began  to  be  less;  hero,  on  the  contrary,  mine  begin 
to  grow  strong.  I  think  there  is  sometliing  in  his 
account  which  gives  cause  to  suspect  he  did  not  see 
the  bottom  of  Lancaster  Sound,  .  .  .  nor  have  we  yet 
seen  the  bottom  of  it.' 

The  'Isabella,'  under  a  press  of  nail,  kept  steadily 
on  in  advance  of  her  consort.  The  'Alexander'  was  a 
much  slower  sailer ;  and  this  had  been  a  matter  of 
great  annoyance  all  through  the  voyage,  and  was 
particularly  so  at  this  moment,  when  the  inlet  looked 
more  and  more  promising,  and  when  there  was  a 
strong  swell  from  the  north-west,  which  they  could 
bitt  think  was  caused  by  its  being  an  entrance  into 
the  ocean. 

In  a  short  account  sent  to  a  monthly  journal  by 
one  of  thfe  officers  on  their  return,  we  find  it  stated 
that  here  '  every  officer  and  man,  on  the  instant  as 
it  were,  made  up  his  mind  that  this  must  be  the 
North-west  Passage;'  and  the  writer  added, — 'I 
firmly  believe  that  every  creature  on  board  antici- 
pated the  pleasure  of  writing  an  overland  despatch 


M 


'Sm 


vAvy:t»?g!uj'';Mi'!j'Wiu-g;.iii;ii'-!-^w!<f\M^^^^^ 


92 


SIR  JOHN  ROSS. 


to  his  friends,  either  from  the  eastern  or  western 
shores  of  the  Pacific' 

Yet  at  this  very  moment,  and  without  any  ap- 
parent reason,  the  '  Isabella'  tacked  and  rejoined  her 
consort,  which  she  passed  without  a  word  of  expla- 
nation. 

The  weather  was  said  to  have  become  somewhat 
hazy ;  and  in  his  own  account  Captain  Ross  stated 
that  to  the  westward  it  was  thick  and  cloudy ;  and 
that  on  a  report  of  some  appearance  of  its  clearing 
he  went  on  deck,  and  '  distinctly  saw  the  land  round 
the  bottom  of  the  bay,  forming  a  chain  of  mountains,' 
which  he  named  Croker  Mountains,  but  which  will 
in  vain  be  sought  in  any  maps. 

This  was  probably  the  fitrit  Arctic  expedition 
in  which  both  officers  and  men  were  obliged  to 
return  home  against  their  will.  In  all  former  ones, 
as  our  readers  will  remember,  it  was  the  crews  who 
hung  br.ok,  and  the  commanders  who  were  forced  to 
give  up.  But  this  order  of  things  was  reversed  in 
this  case,  and  at  a  moment  too  when  i',  was  par- 
ticularly vexatious  to  every  one. 

It  is  not  surprising,  therefore,  that  on  their  return 
many  of  them  freely  expressed  their  opinions,  and 
that  the  disappointment  of  the  public  very  speedily 
manifested  itself.  Lieutenant  Parry  at  first  made 
known  his  sentiments  only  to  private  friends;  but- 
when,  in  an  interview  with  Lord  Me'  iHe,  his  real 
opinion  was  communicated  to  that  nobleman,  as  veil 
as  to  Sir  John  (then  Mr.)  Barrow,  the  latter  did  not 
allow  the  matter  to  slumber. 


'^y,if>i'i5a<fj|t4?'|aiu>'i'w;'!'^^-.^m]i  <!)"■''  '*" 


e  eastern  or  western 

and  without  any  ap- 
cked  and  rejoined  her 
out  a  word  of  expla- 

ive  become  somewhat 
b  Captain  Ross  stated 
lick  and  cloudy ;  and 
arance  of  its  clearing 
ly  saw  the  land  round 
a  chain  of  mountains,' 
tttalns,  but  which  will 

rst  Arctic  expedition 
men  were  obliged  to 
In  aU  former  ones, 
it  was  the  crews  who 
rs  who  were  forced  to 
hings  was  reversed  in 
:no  when  ?',  was  par- 

re,  that  on  their  return 
id  their  opinions,  and 
B  public  very  speedily 
t  Parry  at  first  made 
»  private  friends;  but 
ord  Me'  iJle,  his  real 
that  nobleman,  as  veil 
row,  the  latter  did  not 


parry's  opinion.  t^ 

Before  the  voyage  we  find,  from  Parry's  own 
words,  that  he  was  not  sanguine  as  to  the  existence 
of  the  passage ;  but  on  his  return  he  told  a  friend 
that  'his  sentiments  had  quite  altered — that  he 
knew  it  to  exist,  and  that  it  was  not  very  hard  to 
find.' 


I 


'Ml 


V.  i 


f 


.■Jiuait-j.-J'Jftw^ww^'i.wwiiUM'^MLw 


94 


I 
t 

i 

i 

m 
iii 

!'■ 
Ml 


CHAPTER  V. 

« 

CAPTAIN  BUCHAN'S  POLAR  EXP'^.DITION. 

Let  lis  now  follow  the  other  two  vessels  which 
we  left  at  Lerwick,  just  starting  on  their  northern 
course. 

Their  object  was,  as  we  shall  remember,  jv  still 
bolder  one  than  that  set  before  Captain  Rossj  for 
they  were  to  endeavour  to  cross  even  the  North  Pole 
itself,  and  so  to  gain  the  Pacific.  It  was  to  bo  a 
repetition  of  the  attempt  made  by  Captain  Phiipps 
when  Nelson  was  a  boy ;  or,  to  go  much  furcuer  bfick, 
it  was  to  be  a  following  out  of  the  scheme  pro- 
posed to  King  Henry  VIII.  by  the  Bristol  merchant, 
Mr.  Robert  Thorne.  And  with  fully  as  much 
enthusiasm  as  his,  though  with  far  b^itti  vessels 
than  his  monarch  could  have  provided,  wai'  the 
undertaking  carried  out.  Yet '  that  little  way  '  just 
about  the  Pole,  of  which  he  spoke  so  slightingly, 
proved,  in  spite  of  *  its  constant  summer  dariight,'  a 
tougher  piece  of  navigation  than  Mr.  RobeH  Thorne- 
had  anticipated. 

Captain  Buchan   was,  however,   well  prepared 
for  his  task,  having  been  much  on  the  coast  of  ITew- ' 
foundland ;  and  by  the  24th  May  the    had  already 


If  ww"V""f|i 


% 


WALRUSES  NEAR  BEAR  ISLAND. 


&5 


ir'^.DITION. 

wo   vessels   which 
on  their  northtrn 

remember,  ft  still 
IJaptain  Rossj  for 
en  the  North  Pole 
It  was  to  w  a 
ly  Captain  Phinps 
nuch  furcner  bfick, 

the  scheme  pro- 
I  Bristol  merchant, 
ii    fully    as   much 

far  b^itti  vessels 
)rovided,  wai'  the 
aat  little  way  '  just 
ike  so  slightingly, 
immer  dariight,'  a 
Mr.  HobeH  Thome 

^er,  well  prepared 
I  the  coast  of  ITew- 
r  the    had  already 


reached  that  littlo  island  which  by  Barentsz  had  first 
been  named  Bear  Island,  because  bears  were  the  only 
living  things  that  he  found  there ;  and  afterwards  by 
Captain  Bennet  (who  knew  not  that  it  had  been 
visited  before),  Cherie  Isle,  after  the  alderman  who, 
in  1603,  had  sent  him  out. 


Wa1nis«8. 

The  crews  of  the  '  Dorothea  '  and  *  Trent '  nv'>t, 
however,  with  a  different  kind  of  living  creatures 
amongst  the  ice,  which  detained  them  for  a  while 
in  its  neighbourhood.  Those  irere  the  walruses, 
which  were  so  numerous  that  one  ship's  crew  alone 
took  between  900  and  1000  of  them  ;  their 
chai*?oter  and  habits  are   described  by  Lieutenant 


mm 


96 


CAPTAIN  BUCHAN. 


t 


Beechey,  in  his  narrative  of  the  voyage,  as  most 
curious. 

Their  affection  for  their  young,  and  their  com- 
passion for  any  wounded  comrade,  whom  they  i?ould 
never  leave  until  they  had  carried  him  to  a  place  of 
safety,  were,  he  tells  us,  equally  remarkable. 

'  When  the  weather  was  warm,'  he  says,  *  animals 
of  various  kinds  would  crawl  up  out  of  the  pools  in 
the  vast  sheets  of  ice  around  the  vessels  to  bask  in 
the  warmth  of  the  sun.'  A  walrus  rose  in  one  of 
these  pools  close  to  the  ship ;  and  finding  eveiything 
quiet,  dived  down  nd  brought  up  its  young,  which 
it  held  by  its  breast  by  pressing  it  with  its  flipper. 
In  this  manner  it  moved  about  the  pool,  keeping  in 
an  erect  posture,  and  always  directing  the  face  of  its 
young  toward  the  vesseL  On  the  slightest  njiovement 
on  board  the  mother  released  her  flipper,  and  pushed 
the  young  one  under  water;  but  when  everything 
was  again  quiet,  she  brought  it  up  again  as  before, 
atkd  for  a  length  of  time  continued  to  play  about  in 
the  pool,  to  the  great  amusement  of  the  seamen,  who 
gave  her  credit  for  abilities  in  tuition  which,  though 
possessed  of  considerable  sagacity,  she  hardly  merited. 
The  instructions  which  Buchan  hud  received  directed 
him  to  make  his  way  between  the  coasts  of  Spitz- 
bergen  and  Greenland,  without  stopping  at  cither ; 
but  this  order  it  was  found  impossible  altogether  to 
carry  out.  Even  before  they  reached  the  latitude 
of  Spitzbergen  the  two  vessels  had  become  sepa- 
rated in  a  fog,  and  were  obliged  to  take  refuge  in 
the  rendezvous  fixed  on  in  case  of  such  a  catastrophe, 


le  voyage,  as  most 

ing,  and  their  com- 

e,  whom  they  i?ould 

d  him  to  a  place  of 

remarkable. 

a,'  he  says, '  animals 

out  of  the  pools  in 
e  vessels  to  bask  in 
ilrus  rose  in  one  of 
i  finding  eveiytbing 
ip  its  young,  which 
y  it  with  its  flipper. 
:he  pool,  keeping  in 
soting  the  face  of  its 
!  slightest  njovement 
■  flipper,  and  pushed 
at  when  everything 
up  again  as  before, 
ed  to  play  about  in 
;  of  the  seamen,  who 
lition  which,  though 
,  she  hardly  merited, 
ud  received  directed 
the  coasts  of  Spitz- 
stopping  at  cither; 
jssible  altogether  to 
eached  the  latitude 

had  become  sepa- 
id  to  take  refuge  in 
F  such  a  catastrophe, 


THE  REIN-lyEEH. 


97 


namely,  Magdalena  Bay,  on  the  north-east  of  that  is- 
land— or,  rather,  group  of  islands;  for  Spitzbergen 
is  not  one,  but  several  islets,  amongst  which  are  to  be 
found  on  all  sides  many  curious  and  magnificent 
bays.  Here,  as  the  barrier  of  ice  l)eyond  was  then 
impenetrable,  Buchaii  determined  to  stay  for  a  few 
days. 

Like  its  Dutch  discoverer,  Barentsz,  they  were 
to  see  the  island  in  its  summer  beauty ;  and,  like 
him,  they  soon  discovered  it  to  be  the  home  of  a  con- 
siderable variety  of  birds  and  animals,  the  sea  being 
as  much  alive  as  the  land. 

Bears  and  foxes  abound  everywhere;  and,  in 
some  parts,  the  rein-deer  also.  The  latter  take 
freely  to  the  water,  and  swim  from  island  to  island. 
They  feed  on  moss,  and  were  found  in  excellent  con- 
dition. On  the  Isle  of  Vogelsang  alone  the  crews 
obtaiced  forty  fine  carcases.  «They  were  then  in 
pairs,  and  showed  such  evident  affection  for  one 
another,  that  when  one  was  shot  the  other  wo«ld 
hang  over  it,  and  occasionally  lick  it,  apparently 
bemoaning  its  fate;  and  if  not  immediately  killed, 
it  would  stand  three  or  four  shots  rather  than  desert 
its  fallen  companion.' 

And  '  this  compassionate  conduct  of  theirs,'  con- 
tinues Beechey,  « doubled  our  chance  of  success,  al- 
though it  was  obtained  at  the  expense  of  our  better 
feelings.' 

The  crews  tried  to  preserve  some  alive,  but 
they  were  so  wild  that,  in  their  attempts  to  get 
free,  they  broke  their  slender  limbs ;  so  that,  to  put 

H 


m 


aii 


I    V. 


»^  i ;  ;K 


98 


CAPTAIN  HUCHAN. 


them  out  of  their  sufferingH,  they  were  obliged  to 
be  shot. 

On  another  ishind  the  king  eider-ducks  were 
found  in  such  numbers,  that  it  was  difficult  to 
walk  without  treading  on  tlieir  nests.  Yet  the  parent 
birda  have  a.  way  of  preserving  the  eggs  against 
the  attacks  of  wild  animals ;  for  when  any  appear, 
and  they  are  obliged  to  fly,  they  first  glue  the  down 
of  the  nest  over  the  eggs  with  a  yellow  fluid,  which 
has  such  an  abominable  smell  that  not  even  a  fox 
will  toiicli  them. 

Then  tlie  rocks  reverberated  with  the  cries  of 
the  merry  little  auks,  of  willocks,  divers,  cormorants, 
gulls,  and  other  aquatic  birds.  In  fact,  these  little 
auks,  or  rotges,  came  in  sneh  multitudes,  that  about 
four  millions  were  supposed  to  be  on  the  wing  at 
one  time.  Tiiey  darkened  the  air,  and  their  chorus 
might  be  heard  at  the  distance  of  four  miles. 

And  at  the  same  time  might  be  seen  *  groups  of 
wtlrases  basking  in  the  sun,  and  mingling  their 
plaj^ul  roar  with  the  husky  bark  of  the  seal ;'  '  while 
ampliibious  animals  of  all  sorts,  and  fish,  from  the 
huge  whale  to  the  minute  dio  on  which  it  feeds, 
swallowing,  perhaps,  a  million  at  a  mouthful,  en- 
livened both  the  ice  and  the  water.' 

It  is  the  comparative  mildness  of  the  climate 
which  no  doubt  causes  it  to  be,  though  destitute  of 
human  inhabitants,  the  resort  of  so  many  of  the 
animal  creation. 

Oh  the  western  side,  even  with  the  thermometer 
only  a  little  above  freezing,  there  was  but  little  sen- 


sy  wore  obliged  to 

eider-ducks  were 
t  WU8  difficult  to 
4t8.  Yet  the  parent 
;  the  eggs  against 

when  any  appear, 
first  glue  the  down 
yellow  fluid,  which 
uit  not  even  a  fox 

with  the  cries  of 
divers,  cormorants. 
In  fact,  these  little 
Ititudes,  that  about 
)e  on  the  wing  at 
r,  and  their  chorus 
f  four  miles, 
be  seen  *  groups  of 
nd  mingling  their 
afthe  seal;'  'while 
and  fish,  from  the 
on  which  it  feeds, 
it  a  mouthful,  en- 
ter.' 

ess  of  th*^  climate 
-hough  destitute  of 
•f  so  many  of  the 

;h  the  thermometer . 
was  but  little  sen- 


m^\ 


fill 


n 


111 


iU 


Si;  SI 


SCENERY  OF  HPITZBEIKJEN. 


101 


eaiion  of  cold.  Sometimes  the  mm  had  great  power ; 
and  once  at  midnight,  beneath  hiH  rays,  the  quick- 
silver rose  to  73°.  GrusseH  and  licliens  flourish  in 
the  more  southern  aspects;  and,  even  to  the  height  of 
15,000  feet  above  the  sea,  Alpine  plants  ^-ore  found. 

It  was  summer  time,  however — the  .>rd  of  June 
—  when  they  anchored  in  Magdalcna  Bay ;  yet  the 
ice  in  the  harbour  was  not  then  melted,  though  by 
the  beginning  of  August,  when  they  returned,  it 
had  quite  disappeared. 

Four  immense  glaciers,  of  which  one  called  the 
*  Hanging  Iceberg,'  which  rested  on  the  slope  of  a 
mountain  200  feet  above  the  sea,  distinguish  this 
bay. 

The  islands  derived  their  name  Spilberg,  Spit- 
bergen,  or  Spitzbergen,  from  the  sharp-pointed  moun- 
tains which  characterise  the  group.  It  was  given  by 
its  Du*x*h  discoverers. 

But  amidst  these  mountains,  icebergs  and  gla- 
ciers, of  course,  abound.  Of  their  appearance  in  the 
rays  of  an  Arctic  sun,  and  under  an  expanse  of  azure 
of  which  not  even  an  Italian  sky  will  give  a  just  con- 
ception, we  leave  our  readers  to  form  an  idea.  It  is 
better  imagined  than  described. 

It  was  shortly  after  their  arrival  that  the  crews 
had  the  opportunity  of  witnessing  the  extraordinary 
spectacle  of  the  formation  of  a  sea-iceberg.  The  re- 
port of  a  musket  sufficed  to  bring  down  an  enormous 
block  of  ice,  which,  by  its  fall,  caused  the  sea  to  boil 
violently,  even  to  the  distance  of  four  miles,  at  which 
the  'Dorothea'  was  riding.     For  a  few  moments  the 


10*2 


OAITAIN  HUCIIAN. 


ihiglity  muHH  «jntiroly  diHnppeared ;  tlien  roiirod  On 
head  Ji^jfiiin  al)ove  the  wator,  and  travoUod  on  ;  making 
a  continual  popping  noise,  like  the  crocking  of  a 
carter's  t»liip — caiued,  no  doubt,  1)y  the  cucape  of 
Kxed  air — wliilo  a  stream  of  water  was  seen  pouring' 
(k)wn  its  sides. 

One  of  the  tH)atM  was  out,  and  its  crew,  sup- 
posing themselveH  ({uite  beyond  its  reach,  were  <juietly 
enjoying  the  scene,  wlien  tliey  found  themselves  lifted 
on  the  crest  of  an  enormous  wave,  and  carried  a  dis- 
tance, which  they  afterwards  ascertained  to  be  ninety- 
six  feet,  on  to  the  shf)re :  the  boat  was  found  to  re« 
(juire  much  repairs  before  she  could  regain  the  ship. 

It  was  summer  time,  as  we  have  said,  and  yet 
did  our  crews  vainly  attempt  to  pass  the  barrier 
which  lay  between  themselves  and  the  Pole.  It  was 
impenetrable ;  and  n^olutely  did  it  hold  them  back, 
and  keep  them  from  crossing  that  *  little  way,'  and 
so  gaining  the  laurels  which  they  coveted. 

After  four  days,  however,  they  left  Magdalena 
Bay,  but  immediately  got  amongst  what  is  called 
•  brash  ice,'  i.e,  small  fragments  of  ice.  This  seemed 
to  get  thicker  and  more  compact  as  they  went  on  ; 
but  soon  a  breeze  springing  up,  opened  a  passage  for 
theto  into  clear  water;  and  they  turned  westward. 
Then  they  fell  in  with  some  whalers,  who  told  them 
that  it  was  useless  to  proceed  in  that  direction,  for 
that  fifteen  vessels  were  beset  a  little  further  on.  So 
they  turned  once  more  tfiwards  the  north,  and  passed 
Cloven  CliflF  at  the  north-west  point  of  the  island. 
.Almost  immediately  afterwards  the  ice  once  more 


^.'^.|S'^'^L'WWMll^"^^^^W■^l.',^J^^w^|.^^<^!■'.^'^l■^a>.^- 


1 ;  tlien  roiinKl  it« 
LVoUud  on ;  making 
the  crocking  uf  a 
,  1)y  the  oucape  of 
r  wuH  Hwm  pouring 

,nd  its  crew,  Bup- 
reach,  were  <|uietly 
id  themnelvcB  lifted 
,  and  carried  a  dis- 
ained  to  be  ninety- 
it  was  found  to  re- 
Id  regain  the  ship. 
Iiave  said,  and  yet 

0  pass  the  barrier 

1  the  Pole.  It  was 
it  hold  them  back, 
it  *  little  way,'  and 
7  coveted. 

ey  left  Magdalena 
gst  what  is  called 
■  ice.  This  seemed 
:  as  they  went  on  ; 
)ened  a  passage  for 
'  turned  westward. 
Brs,  who  told  them 
that  direction,  for 
tie  further  on.  So 
?  north,  and  passed 
nt  of  the  island. 
Is  the  ice  once  more 


tt'«iW.tn.iwWPii 


KASIIINCI  INTO  TIIK  I'ArKKl*  K'K. 


103 


cloHcd  in;  and  it  was  only  after  gniit  cxtfrtions  that 
they  got  again  into  the  Hoo,  in  which  they  were  en- 
clowid  for  thirteen  dayH. 

A  movement  tlu-n  took  place  in  the  ico  towards 
the  south,  and  the  Nliips  got  again  into  an  optMi  Kea, 
and  proceeded  for  u  little  while,  but  were  HO<m  forced 
back  to  take  refuge  in  Fair  Havj^n.  Once  more  a 
channel  opened,  and  C!aptai.i  Muclian,  spreading  all 
sail,  pushed  into  one  of  the  openingH,  cloHcly  fol- 
lowed by  the  '  Trent.' 

niey  had  reached  80°  34'  N.,  and  soon  they 
were  'closely  pressed  again  by  the  packed  ice;'  and, 
after  dragging  the  ships  along  with  ropes  for  two 
days,  it  was  decided  at  once  to  stand  across  for  the 
coast  of  Greenland,  and  try  their  chance  there. 
Suddenly,  however,  a  violent  gale  sprang  up ;  the  ice 
was  seen  rapidly  tearing  down  upon  them,  so  that 
to  avoid  immediate  destruction  the  '  Dorothea'  was 
compelled  to  take  refuge  in  the  midiit  of  it,  by 
*  dashing  at  once  into  the  furiovs  line  of  breakers, 
in  which  immense  pieces  of  ice  were  heaving  and 
subsiding  with  the  waves,  and  dashing  together  with 
a  violence  which  nothing,  apparently,  but  a  solid 
body  could  withstand,  occasioning  such  a  noise  that 
it  was  with  the  greatest  difficulty  we  could  make  our 
orders  heard  by  the  crew.' 

At  that  moment  it  seemed  as  if  the  collision 
between  the  ice  and  the  little  vessel  must  have  proved 
fatal  to  her;  and  yet,  with  perfect  calmness  and 
decision,  were  the  orders  of  the  commander  given 
and  oVjeyed  by  the  men. 


ZtiliiMMiliiWIIiilillllJiMW 


iMBMitsiaaMiMiiaMiiiwmffitfiiiiiiiiin 


uu 


(!APTAIN  BUCHAN. 


liifutMiiiiif,  iiftcTwurdH  ('aptaiii,  Bt)<'<h<iy,  ih  iiere 
Hpuakiti({  of  (lie  'Tn-iit,'  ami  of  IiIh  iiiiinHliato  coni- 
inandor,  hiDutoiiaiit  Franklin:  — 

•  Karli  |)erH(»n,'  ho  tuIlH  um,  '  instinctivoly  Hecnrod 
liiH  own  hold,  and  with  hin  uycH  fixed  on  thu  mantti,' 
awaited  in  brcathhiHM  anxiety  the  mouM^nt  of  con- 
cuHHion.  It,  Hoon  arrived.  The  hri^,  cuttin({  her 
way  throuj^h  the  light  ice,  came  in  violent  contact 
with  the  main  body.  In  an  instant  we  all  loot  our 
footin^j;,  the  niuNtM  bent  with  the  impetiiN,  and  the 
cracking;  tiinlxirH  from  IkjIow  IwHpoke  a  prosHure 
which  was  calcidated  tf)  awaken  our  HeriouH  appre- 
henmonK.  The  Hhip'i*  hell,  aUo,  which  had  nevitr'in 
any  Ktonn  sounded  of  itself,  began  to  toll  so  conti- 
nually that  it  was  ordered  to  be  nuiffled.' 

After  this  gale  had  subsided  the  •  Dorothea'  was 
found  )  1)6  in  a  foundering  condition,  and  it  was 
with  difficulty  that  she  was  got  back  into  Fair  Haven 
for  repairs. 

But  the  'Trent'  Ijeing  less  damaged,  its  young 
and  ardent  commander  re«]ue8ted  leave  to  proceed 
alone ;  a  request  which,  however,  both  his  instructions 
and  his  own  judgment  forbade  his  chief  to  grant. 
So  both  vessels  reluctantly  turned  homewards,  and 
arrived  at  Deptford  on  the  22nd  October. 


\06 


I,  Bo((ch«iy,  \h  here 
IN  iiiuiuiliato  coiii- 

stinctivnly  8ec»rod 
ixc(i  on  tliu  inoHtM, 
B  moiiKint  of  cou- 

hri);,  ciittiriff  her 
in  violent  contact 
mt  we  all  lost  our 

impetiiN,  and  tho 
•Hpoko  a  prcsMiiru 
lur  HPrioiiH  appre- 
/hich  had  never  in 
,n  to  toll  HO  conti- 
nffled.' 

lie  •  Dorothea'  wan 
lition,  and  it  wan 
ck  into  Fair  Haven 

ainaged,  its  young 
1  leHve  to  procood 
oth  hiH  inHtructionn 
m  chief  to  grant, 
id  homcwardB,  and 
i  October. 


(JHAPTKK  VI. 

HIB  KDWAIU)  PAHRV'S  KIIWT  EXI'KDITION. 

Very  truly  had  Lieutenant  Parry  ohnervcd,  on  ]\\h 
return  from  liix  voyage  in  thf!  *  Alexander,'  that  '  all 
previous  attempts  had  been  ntlinquiHlxtd  junt  at  a 
time  wlien  there  wiv«  the  greatest  chance  of  huccchh  ;' 
and  that  this  had  l»cen  the  ciwe  in  Kohh'h  expedition, 
very  soon  Injcame  the  opinion  of  the  LordH  of  the 
Admiralty,  and  of  Mr.  (atterwardH  Sir  John)  Barrow, 
their  energetic  Hecretary,  who  was  not  the  man  to 
let  the  matter  rest  where  it  was. 

The  'Isabella'  and  'Alexander'  had  reached 
Shetland  on  the  30th  Octol)er,  and  bt^fore  two  montliH 
had  elapsed  two  other  vessels,  the  '  Hecla '  and 
'  Griper,'  were  selected  under  the  advice  of  Parry, 
and  sent  into  dock,  to  be  prepared  to  encounter  next 
spring  the  ice  and  storms  of  the  north. 

He  felt  sure,  ah  he  said,  that  '  ho  would  have 
some  finger  in  this  new  pie,'  and  that  satisfied  him; 
but  who  was  to  command  the  expedition  was  a 
matter  for  after-consideration-  It  was  not  long, 
however,  before  it  was  decided  in  his  favour  ;  and  if 
anything  could  have  added  to  his  gratification   in 


f::| 


JU — 


iiiaiiiiiitftTMi»mti><iiii^ 


$mmmmi»^- 


*iisr- 


m 


i 


11: 


iiii 


108 


silt  EDWAIID  PARRY. 


thus  obtaining  tlie  object,  of  his  highest  wishes,  it 
must  have  been  that  this  decision  was  arrived  at 
after  a  very  careful  examination  of  all  the  officers' 
journals ;  the  Board  l)eing  determined  this  time  to 
choose,  if  posuible,  the  right  person. 

The  perfect  confidence  reposed  in  him  was  like- 
wise shown  by  his  being  allowed  the  entire  control 
of  the  equipment  of  the  ships,  as  well  as  the  choice 
of  all  the  officers. 

To  the  command  of  the  *  Griper '  Lieutenant 
Liddon  was  appointed ;  but  he  wtui  the  only  officer 
who  had  not  served  in  one  or  other  of  the  last  two 
expeditions.  There  was  no  difficulty  in  finding 
seamen,  for  crowds  of  volunteers  offered  themselves ; 
and  the  vessels  were  amply  supplied  with  provisions 
for  two  years :  so  both  officers  and  men  started  in 
the  highest  spirits. 

Mr.  Barrow  observes,  that  the  most  singular 
feature  in  this  expedition  was,  that  Parry  was  again 
suflfdred  to  go  out  as  Lieutenant ;  while  Commander 
Ross,  for  what  he  calls  '  an  unprofitable  voyage  of 
seven  summer  months,  was  at  once  a'Vanced  to  the 
rank  of  Captain.'  But  Parry's  own  remark  on  the  sub- 
ject was,*  ^"hen  I  loo':  at  the  "Hecla,"  and  at  the  chart 
of  Lancaster  Sound,  oh,  what  is  promotion  to  this ! " 

The  '  Hecla,'  indeed,  was  a  great  pet  of  his, 
and  he  declared  it  all  but  perfect:  but  with  the 
*  Griper '  he  was  by  no  means  so  well  satisfied ;  and 
its  slow  sailir,  Tf  pioved  a  source  of  as  much  vexation 
as  that  of  the  '  Alexander  '  had  been  the  last  year. 

They  started   a  fortnight    later  than  on    that 


ilJIi 


'ARRY. 


APl'ROACH  TO  LANfJASTER  SOUND. 


107 


his  highest  wishes,  it 
?cision  was  arrived  at 
tion  of  all  the  officers' 
et^rmined  this  time  to 
)er8on. 

posed  in  him  was  like- 
>wed  the  entire  control 
,  as  well  as  the  choice 

;  '  Griper '  Lieutenant 
he  wtifl  the  only  officer 
r  other  of  the  last  two 
>  difficulty  in  finding 
iers  offered  themselves ; 
ipplied  with  provisions 
3rs  and  men  started  in 

iiat  the  most  singular 
s,  that  Parry  was  again 
mt ;  while  Commander 
unprofitable  voyage  of 
it  once  a'Vanced  to  the 
own  remark  on  the  sub- 
Hecla,"  and  at  the  chart 
is  promotion  to  this ! " 
^g  a  great  pet  of  his, 
perfect:  but  with  the 
8  so  well  satisfied ;  and 
ce  of  as  much  vexation 
d  been  the  last  year. 
it    later  than  on    that 


o'jcasictn,  but  arrived  at  the  mouth  of  Lancaster 
Sound  a  month  earlier,  as  they  sailed  direct  for  it, 
and  not  round  Baffin's  Bay  ;  their  instructions  being 
thoroughly  to  examine  that  opening,  and,  in  the  event 
(jf  failure  there,  to  pass  on  to  Jones'  and  Smith's 
Sounds,  as  neither  had  l>een  thoroughly  examined  by 
Ross. 

Failure,  however,  did  not  await  them  ;  for  this 
voyage  was  to  accomplish  what  so  many  previous 
ones  had  failed  in — it  was  to  open  the  entrance  to 
the  North-west  Passage  1  This,  therefore,  our  readers 
may  possibly  think  its  great  characteristic. 

On  first  approaching  the  western  side  of  the 
bay,  they  were  considerably  disconcerted  to  find 
there  a  vast  sheet  of  ice,  amongst  which  were  many 
bergs ;  and  once  they  had  a  narrow  escape  of  being 
*  nipped/  between  a  floe  and  an  iceberg,  which  was 
fast  driving  on  to  it^  The  boats  had  to  be  got  out, 
and  the  ships  were  only  just  towed  out  of  the  way 
in  time.  But  Parry  was  so  sure  that  he  should  find 
clear  water  on  the  other  side  that  he  was  determined 
to  force  a  passage ;  and  *  after  a  whole  week's  labo- 
rious sailing,  tracking,  and  towing,'  this  was  at  length 
accomplished. 

It  was  on  the  Ist  of  August  that  they  had  thus 
passed  all  these  icy  barriers,  and  stood  at  the 
entrance  of  what  was  then  known  as  Sir  James 
Iiancaster's  Sound,  which  Parry  soon  transformed 
into  Barrow's  Strait.  *  It  is  more  easy  to  imagine 
than  to  describe,'  he  writes, '  the  almost  breathless 
anxiety  which  was  now  visible  in  every  countenance, 


{  1' 


i 


.^^mmmmmmm 


|i' 


108 


SIR  EDWARD  PARRY. 


^ii' 


while,  aa  the  breeze  increased  to  a  fresh  gale,  we 
ran  quickly  up  the  Sound.  The  mast-heads  were 
crowded  by  the  officers  and  men  during  the  whole 
afternoon  ;  and  an  unconcerned  observer,  if  any  could 
have  been  unconcerned  on  such  an  occasion,  would 
have  been  amused  by  the  eagerness  with  whicii 
the  various  reports  from  the  crow's  nest  were 
received;  all,  however,  hitherto  favourable  to  our 
most  sanguine  hopes.' 

On  and  on  tliey  sailed,  and  no  *  Croker  Moun- 
tains' came  in  sight ;  so  the  name  was  given  to  the 
first  large  inlet  in  the  northern  shore.  Still  they 
dreaded  lest  the  land  should  trend  round,  and  join 
the  south  coast ;  and  once  the  cry  of  *  land '  from 
the  inast-head  scared  every  one.  But  it  turned  out 
to  be  only  a  little  island,  which  they  attempted  to 
pass  on  the  south  side.  This  passage  proving  im- 
prac*^icable,  Parry  gave  it  the  name  of  Prince  Regent's 
Inlet,  as  it  happened  to  be  the  Prince's  ]»irthday, 
and  returned  up  the  strait,  along  which  they  were 
now  able  to  coast  on  the  north  side. 

One  very  curious  plienomenon  we  nnist  not  omit 
here  to  relate.  It  was,  that  by  the  time  they  had 
reached  lOO*^  west  longitude  from  Greenwich  the 
compasses  had  entirely  lost  their  directing  power. 
They  had  become  very  sluggish  from  the  moment 
they  entered  the  strait*  but  when  attempting  to  sail 
up  Prince  Regent's  Inlet  they  altogether  failed,  and 
were  put  away  as  useless  lumbci ;  so  the  vessels  had 
to  proceed  without  their  friendly  guidance. 

Now  it  was  one  of  their  great  objects  to  obtain . 


-m>T 


RRY. 


THE  FIRST  ANCHORAGE. 


109 


to 


a  fresh  gale,  we 
mast-heads  were 
en  during  the  whole 
observer,  if  any  could 
1  an  occasion,  would 
igerness  with  which 
B  crow's  nest  were 
to  favourable  to  our 

d  no  *  Croker  Moun- 
.me  was  given  to  the 
m  shore.  Still  they 
rend  round,  and  join 
3  cry  of  *  land '  from 
?.  But  it  turned  out 
;h  they  attempted  to 
passage  proving  im- 
me  of  Prince  Regent's 
he  Prince's  ]»irthday, 
)ng  which  they  were 
uh  side. 

lon  we  nnist  not  omit 
>y  the  time  they  had 
from  Greenwich  the 
deir  directing  power, 
jh  from  the  moment 
en  attempting  to  s&il 
altogether  failed,  and 
ci ;  so  the  vessels  had 
lly  guidance, 
•eat  objects  to  obtain . 


further  light  on  the  subject  of  magnetism ;  and  every 
opportunity  was  therefore,  throughout  the  voyage, 
given  to  Captain  Sabine  and  the  otlior  scientific 
men  for  making  observations  on  this  and  other 
important  subjects. 

Had  not  the  time  been  too  precious,  Parry 
would  gladly  have  stayed  here  to  ascertain  exactly 
the  position  of  the  magnetic  north  pole,  which  he 
felt  sure  they  were  very  near,  and  which  he  correctly 
surmised,  from  the  above-mentioned  circumstance,  to 
be  situated  nearly  where  Sir  James  Ross  afterwards 
found  it,  i.  e.  about  two  or  three  degrees  from  the  me- 
ridian, 100°  W.  from  Greenwich.  But  the  season 
was  pasding,  and  they  must  push  on. 

At  length,  to  the  great  relief  of  every  one,  they 
came  out  int»  '.  fine  broad  channel,  on  which  Parry 
bestowed  the  name  of  Wellington,  and  now  they 
soon  reached  the  point  at  which  the  ship's  crew 
became  entitled  to  the  reward  of  5000^.  offered  by 
Government  to  the  first  of  his  Majesty's  subjects 
who  should  sail  thus  far  west.  This  point  was 
meridian,  1 10°  W.,  within  the  Arctic  circle  ;  and  the 
name  of  Bounty  Cape  was  given  by  the  men  to  the 
point  at  which  the  observation  had  been  taken. 

This  was  a  promontory  of  Melville  Island,  just 
beyond  which  the  ships  anchored  for  the  first  time 
in  the  bay  of  the  *  Hecia'  and  '  Griper.'  Here,  how- 
ever, they  did  not  remain,  for  they  had  not  a  day  to 
lose,  as  the  weather  by  this  time  was  rapidly  becoming 
colder,  and  the  nights  dark ;  so  that,  without  the  aid 
of  their  compasses,  they  were  obliged  to  sail  slowly 


Alt 


M 


■J 


110 


SIR  EDWARD  PARRY. 


and  caiitioiiflly,  especially  as  naviffatifni  here  was 
very  dangerous,  and  each  vessel  more  than  once 
narrowly  escaped  destruction.  Liejitenant  Liddon 
was  already  uffering  from  an  attack  of  rheumatism, 
caused  by  exposure  to  the  cold,  and  whilst  still  ill 
his  ship  was  violently  driven  ashore,  and  with  diffi- 
culty got  dtF  again.  Notliing  could,  however,  induce 
him  to  leave  his  ship,  even  for  an  hour,  while  it  was 
in  danger.  He  determined  to  remain  in  her  like  a 
true  seaman. 

The  month  of  September  is  usually  the  most 
favourable  one  in  the  whole  year  for  sailing  in  these 
seas,  because  they  are  then  the  freest  from  ice ;  but  in 
1819  the  season  came  to  an  end  earlier  than  usual. 
By  the  12th  the  ships  were  completely  besot,  and 
could  not  be  moved  ;  so,  as  coal  had  been  observed 
on  shore,  a  party  was  sent  out  to  collect  it.  Another 
little  company  hiving  also  b^-cLJ,  lost  their  way  in 
a  sflviw  storm,  a  id  fo.u  different  parties  were  sent 
to  search  for  tlipm ;  but  several  anxious  days  passed 
before  thcy  all  returned,  most  of  them  completely 
exha':dt«d,  and  some  considerably  frost-bitten.  It 
"WfiS  evidently  high  time  to  look  out  for  winter 
quarters;  but  after  a  spot  had  been  selectci,  the 
terribly  laborious  work  remained  of  cutting  a  pas- 
sage through  the  ice,  for  the  ships  were  still  set  fast. 

This  occupied  three  whole  days,  but,  headed  by 
their  commander,  officers  and  men  alike  worked  on 
steadily,  and  though  often  up  to  their  knees  in 
water,  not  one  complaint  was  heard.  At  length, 
amidst  the  heartiest    cheers    that  British   seamen 


:uy. 

avijjutifni  here  was 
b1  more,  than  once 
Lieiitenunt  Liddon 
tack  of  rheumatism, 
,  and  whilHt  still  ill 
lore,  and  with  diffi- 
ild,  however,  induce 
n  hour,  while  it  was 
remain  in  her  like  a 

3  usually  the  most 

for  sailing  in  these 
est  from  ice ;  but  in 

earlier  than  usual, 
mpletely  besot,  and 

had  been  observed 
collect  it.  Another 
.u,  lost  their  way  in 
t  parties  were  sent 
inxious  days  passed 
3f  them  completely 
ly  frost-bitten.  It 
)ok  out  for  w'nter 

been  sclectci,  the 
1  of  cutting  a  pas- 
•s  were  still  set  fast, 
ays,  but,  headed  by 
en  alike  worked  on 

to  their  knees  in 
heard.  At  length, 
lat  British   seamerk 


r*ji. 


4^ 


■  I 


m 


u 


|i;;! 


WINTKR  HARBOUR. 


113 


could  give,  the  ♦  Hecla'  and  'Griper'  were  drawn 
into  Winter  Harbour,  Melville  Island. 

There  had  been  no  pause  as  yet,  either  a8  to 
work  or  excitement ;  but  when  both  vessels  had  been 
enveloped  in  thick  coverings,  and  the  berths  warmed 
by  a  stream  of  heated  air  from  the  stove,  nothing 
then  remained  but  just  to  make  themselves  as  com- 


' Hecla"  and    GiiiMjr'  in  Winter  Harljour 

fortable  as  they  could  for  a  long  dreary  period  of 
some  seven  or  eight  months  to  come.  And  truly 
this  was  a  prospect  sufficient  to  try  the  courage  of 
Ihe  bravest  crews,  still  more  so  of  their  commander. 
Now,  indeed,  was  the  time  to  dread  lest  murmurs, 
or  even  mutiny,  might  break  out  among  the  men, 
unaccustomed  as  they  were  to  an  inactive  life,  and 

I 


ii 


114 


HIR  KDWAHI)  PARRV. 


without  tliose  rc'Hoiirce»  of  wlucation  wliich  wert' 
sure  to  K'HseH  tho  triul  to  tlieir  officers.  But  I'lirryV 
own  rejsourcen  were  unfailing.  He  luul  just  the 
natural  tact  and  variety  of  talents  which  enabled 
hitn  to  meet  this  emergency ;  and  IiIh  contented  diw- 
poHition,  and  peculiarly  bright  and  cheerful  tempera- 
ment, gained  for  him  the  atfection  and  ewtei'm  of 
his  wlioli  company.  '  My  attention,'  ho  wrote  in 
his  journal  at  this  period,  *  was  immediately  and 
imperiously  called  to  various  important  duties, 
many  of  them  of  a  singular  nature,  such  as  had  for 
the  first  time  devolved  on  any  officer  ol"  his  Majesty'n 
navy,  and  might,  indeed,  be  considered  of  rare 
occurrence  in  the  whole  history  of  navigation.' 

Tliese  various  duties  consisted  in  attending  to  tlie 
security  of  the  ships,  as  well  as  to  the  health  and 
comfort,  the  employment  and  amusement,  of  those 
under  his  command;  and  in  attempting  to  estimate 
the  diffictilties  attending  these  latt«r  in  their  present 
condition,  we  must  remember  that  in  the  matter  of 
their  own  health  sailors  are  very  like  children,  and 
have  to  be  dealt  with  accordingly. 

For  a  few  weeks  after  their  encampment  at 
Winter  Harbour  it  was  found  possible  to  secure 
fresh  meat,  exercise,  and  amusement  by  means  of 
hunting-parties ;  and  the  deer  and  grouse  thus  ..akeu 
were  shared  by  officers  and  men,  certain  rules  being 
laid  down,  which  were  called  *  the  game  laws,'  pro- 
hibiting any  prize  thus  caught  from  being  considered 
as  private  property.  But  by  the  end  of  October  all 
animals  had  left  the  island  and  migrated  towards 


catiitn    wliicli    weru 
RctTH.     Hilt  I'lirry'H 

lU'  hiul  just  tlu' 
■ntw  which  cnabltMl 
il  \m  contt'iitt'il  (Uh- 
d  cheerful  tonipera- 
bion  and  eMtt^'iu  of 
ntion,'  lio  wrote  in 
1   imniediutcly   and 

important  duties, 
lire,  Buch  bh  liad  for 
icer  Oi"  his  Majesty'M 
considered  of  rare 
f  navigation.' 
1  in  attending  to  tlie 
1  to  tlie  health  and 
nuseinent,  of  those 
upting  to  estimate 
ter  in  their  present 
lat  in  the  matter  of 
f  like  children,  and 

ir  encampment  at 
possible  to  secure 
nient  by  means  of 
d  grouse  thus  <.akeu 
certain  rules  being 
e  game  laws,'  pro- 
TQ  being  considered 
end  of  October  all 
migrated  towards 


THK  WINTKU  AMI'SKMKNTS. 


11 A 


the  south.  Deprived  of  this  resource,  it  wjis  nncra- 
sary  to  provich-  some  exercise  which  should  he  ohji- 
gatory  when  the  weather  was  too  severe  for  the 
men  to  leave  the  sliips.  The  deiks  were  therefore 
cleared,  that  the  men  might  lie  made  to  run  round 
them  to  the  tune  of  a  hand-organ  or  a  s..ng.  Tht^y 
were  also  obliged  each  dny,  under  the  eye  of  an 
officer,  to  drink  a  certain  amount  of  liiiu'-juice  and 
water;  the  dread  of  the  sailors'  scourge,  scurvy, 
being,  of  course,  ever  before  Parry's  eyes. 

Dreary  in  the  extreme  was  still,  as  he  says,  the 
view  before  them ;  not  an  object  to  he  seen  in  any 
direction  except  their  own  Hres,  or  a  sound,  except 
that  of  their  own  voices,  to  break  the  deathlike  still- 
ness :  though  even  then  the  hope  of  spending  a  part 
of  the  next  winter  in  the  sunny  isles  of  the  south  did 
much  towards  keeping  up  their  spirits,  lint  it  was 
now  absolutely  necessary  to  provide  some  amuse- 
ments for  both  officers  and  men  ;  and  for  this  pur- 
pose two  ideas  were  struck  out  by  Parry:  first, 
that  they  should,  from  time  to  time,  get  up  a  play 
among  themselves ;  and,  secondly,  that  they  should 
set  up  a  weekly  newspaper,  of  which  Capt.  Sabine 
should  be  editor,  and  which  should  be  called  '  The 
North  Georgian  Gazette  and  Winter  Chronicle.' 

The  sun  took  it«  leaye  of  them  for  the  winter  on 
the  5th  of  November,  and  on  that  day  they  had  their 
fi^fit  performance. 

Parry  took  the  liveliest  interest  in  these  amuse- 
ments, and  himself  contributed  both  to  their  stock 
of  plays  arid  to  the  journal.     They  were  considered 


II 


ma 


Hte 


Ill  I 


116 


SIR  KDWAKD  I'ARRY. 


very  important  matterH  by  him,  '  ft)r  ho  dreaded,' 
to  U80  Ilia  own  worda,  '  the  want  of  employment,  uh 
one  of  the  worst  evilH  that  vran  likely  to  l)efal 
them.' 

They  had  aH  a  ChriHtmoH  piece  •  The  North- 
west PaiiBage,*  the  product  of  hiu  pen ;  and  on  the 
Hame  day  the  officers  dined  off  a  piece  of  English 
roast  beef,  preserved  since  the  preoedinj^  May,  witli- 
out  salt,  and  simply  by  the  cold. 

It  waH  not  until  the  3rd  of  February  that  a 
glimpse  of  the  sim  was  again  caught  from  the  main- 
top of  the  '  Hecla.'  His  orb  was  not,  in  fact,  fully 
visible!  for  foif  days  more  ;  for  it  was  the  refractive 
power  of  the  atmospl  ero  which  caused  them  to  see 
this  welcome  sight  before  he  really  rose  above  the 
horizon  ;  and  notwithstanding  his  presence,  the  cold 
was  then  uwvv,  severe  than  previously.  During  this 
month  the  thermometer  was  down  to  55°  below  zero ! 
and  yet  so  cheered  were  they  by  the  sun's  return,  that 
they  now  l)egan  to  make  preparations  for  the  coming 
siunmer,  tiiough  tiiey  had  to  wait  until  the  end  of 
April  l)cfore  the  temperature  rose  to  freezing  point; 
which,  by  contrast,  appeared  to  them  so  hot,  that 
the  men  had  to  be  restrained  from  leaving  off  thdr 
winter  clothes.'  By  the  end  of  May  the  ice  was, 
with  nuich  labour,  cut  through,  so  as  once  more 
to  got  the  ships  afloat ;  but  it  was  not  until  the 
Ist  of  August  that  it  was  sufficiently  melted  to 
allow  of  the  escape  from  their  ten  months'  impri- 
sonment. 

Meanwhile,  ^o  pass  away  the  time.  Parry  made 


ni#.<it,,,t.t,iaa 


IRY. 

,  '  for  he  dreiidwl,' 
J  of  employnumt,  uh 
riut    likely   to    l)cfal 

piece  •  The  North- 
iH  pen ;  and  on  the 
'  H  piece  of  RngliHh 
recedinjf  May,  with- 

af  Fehruary  that,  a 
ight  from  the  main- 
iis  not,  in  fact,  fully 
it  wa8  the  refractive 
eaiiHed  them  to  see 
?A\\\y  rose  above  the 
Ih  preHence,  the  cold 
ously.  During  thiH 
n  to  35°  below  zero  i 
he  sun's  return,  that 
tions  for  the  coming 
lit  imtil  the  end  of 
se  to  freezing  point; 
0  them  HO  hot,  that 
om  leaving  off  their 
F  May  the  ice  was, 
1,  8o  as  once  more 
was  not  until  the 
fficiently  melted  to 
ten  months'  irapri- 

le  time.  Parry  made 


g|i|t|.|ii|.j|iill|t|^j|ii|^jtJijii 


I'AKRVS  HMMK  OV  SANDHTONK. 


117 


un  exploratory  tour  into  the  interior  of  the  island  ; 
and  the  tracks  of  liis  cart  were  found  thirty  years 
afterwards,  lu*  fresh  its  (!ver,  by  Lieutenant  M'l'lintock. 
\  large  block  of  sandstone,  on  whicli  they  i-n- 
gravtnl  a  record  of  their  stay  here,  bttcame  a  still 
more  enduring  reconl  i>f  their  visit.  Kven  when 
they  ha<l  got  out  of  the  bay,  the  free  channel  west- 


sir  Kdwiu-d  Purry't  Stono. 


ward  was  so  small,  and  the  floes  of  ice  so  many  and 
80  large,  that  the  ships  were  in  constant  danger  of 
being  crushed  to  atoms.  After  attempting,  there- 
fore, for  many  days  to  force  a  passage  westward, 
Parry  and  his  officers  were  compelled  to  confess  tt) 
themselves  that,  at  least  for  that  season,  the  enter- 
prise must  be  abandoned. 


^.^MmmAmmm 


IH 


HIH  KItW  VIM)  I'AIUIV, 


Aftt-r  II  I'liiiHiilliitidii,  lli.'icfort',  llic  fwo  V(w»'l« 
wt-ro  tiinicii  hoiiu  wan'.M  on  the  2()tli  Aiij,'UHt  ;  iitul 
(lu'y  fiuiiid  tho  M>)i  ill  (liiit  diitHrtioii  mo  clear  t hut, 
ill  kIx  tliiys.  tli.-y  liad  |niss»'(l  Hiroii^rli  l.iiiu'uwtor 
Hound,  and  Hodii  III). Twanlitrll  in  witli  Home  wlialin^;- 
i»lii|H,  from  which  thty  heard  the  tidinj,'H  of  the 
death  of  the  ol<|  Kiiij?  (k'orgo  III.,  and  of  hiw  hom, 
thi^  Duke  of  Kent. 

They  reached  Kii;,dand  two  inonthH  afterwardn ; 
and  Parry  then  immediately  obtained  hiH  jtromotion 
to  tho  rank  of  conimaiKier,  aa  an  expruHHion  of  tlio 
satisfaetioii  with  which  hiH  eomhict  of  tlie  expedition 
wiw  received  l»y  tlie  hordn  of  the  Admiralty.  Soon 
lifter,  the  corporation  of  Hath  did  him  the  iioiioiir 
of  conferring  on  him  the  freeihmi  of  tliat  iii«  native 
eity,  which  was  prcHeiited  in  a  box  iimde  of  a  piece 
of  tho  wood  of  the  «  Hechi.'  Norwich  followed  the 
example.  He  was  made  a  F«'llow  of  the  Royal  So- 
ciety; and,  in  fact,  all  sorts  of  honourH  were  heaped 
upon  him.  But  Parry'H  own  fir»t  act  on  the  arrival 
of  his  two  v(«8elH  in  the  ThaiucH  mm  to  go,  at  tlie 
heajl  of  all  hin  men,  to  return  their  public  thankH,  at 
St.  Mary's  in  the  Strand,  to  H.^i  who  IumI  ho  gra- 
ciouHly  watched  over  and  kept,  t>  ...i  during  all  tho 
dangiTrt  to  which  they  had  be<  n  exposed,  and  who 
had  blessed  them  with  so  unusual  a  measure  of  health, 
that,  notwithstanding  all  they  had  gone  through,  the 
whole  of  the  two  crews,  officers  and  men,  had  re- 
turned as  well  and  strong  as  when  they  left  the  shores 
of  England ;  with  the  exception  of  one  man,  who  had 
died  at  Melville  Island  .)f  an  old  complaint.     This 


I  im-MIW 


MBMMI 


be;-,  ■, 


V,  I  lie  two  Vi'Hhi'Im 
2(!tli  Aii^itHt  ;  mill 
Hon  HO  ('Ifar  that, 
liroiijjfli  liiiiioHHter 
villi  Hoiim  wliiiliii^- 
li)  ti(liii;i;H  of  the 
I.,  and  of  IiIh  Hon, 

lontliH  aftcrwanlH ; 
iic'd  liJH  |iroinotion 
I  expreHHion  of  the 
\  of  the  expedition 
Admiralty.  Soon 
I  liini  tli<>  lionour 
I  of  tluit  liirt  native 
(  nnwlo  of  n  ploco 
wicli  followed  the 
V  of  the  lioyiii  So- 
lourH  were  heaped 
net  on  the  arrival 
WUH  to  go,  at  the 
•  public  thnnlcH,  at 
t  who  hiul  HO  gra- 
-i.i  during  all  the 
exposed,  and  who 
nieaniire  of  health, 
gone  through, the 
II nd  men,  had  re- 
liey  left  the  shores 
one  man,  who  had 
oomplaint.     This 


XMMHMMMIltMlMwMHMMMltnNI 


«   ■l|i«^  I  ■-llll 


Iftf 


»!i 


I'AHUY's  CHARACTKII. 


11!) 


act  wna  quite  in  keepiiifij  wit  i  his  gencnil  cliaiiiclrr, 
as  we  hIiivII  hit  nioie  and  nior*'  an  we  follow  liis  eoiirne 
for  a  little  while.  He  was,  and  he  miule  no  secret 
of  It,  even  then,  a  relij^iouH  man,  thoiigli  a  eoiiHider- 
alilt*  change  in  IiIh  .views  tunk  plaee  during  his  later 
yeivrn. 


~"iirriiiiwiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiw'' 


120 


,  ^l  i 


CHAPTER  VII.  I 

SIR  JOHN  franklin's  FIRST  LAND  EXPEDITION. 

We  must  now  change  the  s^ene ;  and  instead,  of  con- 
tinuing here  our  narrative  of  Commander  Parry's  ad- 
ventures, proceed  to  give  some  account  of  the  Arctic 
land  expedition  under  the  command  of  liis  intimate 
friend,  Commander  (afterwards  Captain)  Sir  John 
Franklin,  to  whose  name  so  melancholy  and  so  lasting 
an  interest  is  now  attached. 

For  it  seems  better  to  keep  to  the  chronological 
order  in  our  history ;  and  besides,  this  land  expedi- 
tion of  Franklin's  was  intended  to  supplement,  and, 
if  possible,  assist  that  of  Parry  by  sea. 

It  was,  therefore,  in  the  same  month  (May)  of 
the  year  1819  that  both  of  them  set  out;  Franklin, 
and  his  little  party  of  four,  embarking  on  board  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Company's  ship,  'Prince  of  Wales,'  for 
York  P  actory,  on  the  east  of  Hudson's  Bay,  where 
they  were  to  commence  their  journey.  These  four 
companions  were  picked  men,  and  all  distinguished 
themselves,  more  or  less,  by  tlie  zeal  and  ability  with 
which  they  discharged  their  respective  offices. 

Dr.  Richardiion,  a  naval  surgeon,  *  deserves,'  says 


mmmmmt' 


fij^j|flLnniiiTi<?t;i 


..111  iiminijriii 


"!-"'lf'-"''lMa 


YOKK  FACTOKY. 


121 


VII.  I 

r  LAND  KXPKDITJON. 

le ;  and  instead,  of  con- 
commander  Parry's  ad- 
e  account  of  the  Arctic 
nmand  of  liis  intimate 
•ds  Captain)  Sir  John 
slancholy  and  so  lasting 

}p  to  the  chronological 
ides,  this  land  expedi- 
sd  to  supplement,  and, 
T  by  flea. 

same  month  (May)  of 
em  set  out;  Franklin, 
nbarking  on  board  the 
,  'Prince  of  Wales,'  for 
■  Hudson's  Bay,  where 
r  journey.  These  four 
,  and  all  distinguished 
le  zeal  and  ability  with 
Bspective  offices, 
rgeon,  'deserves,'  says 


Franklin,  '  all  the  credit  for  any  collections  or  dis- 
coveries that  were  made  in  natural  liistory.'  JNIr. 
George  Back  and  Mr.  Robert  Hood,  who  were  Ad- 
miralty midshipmen,  were  especially  directed  to 
make  drawings  of  the  land,  natives,  and  natural  ob- 
jects :  the  former  became  afterwards  Captain  Sir 
George  Back ;  while  John  Hepburn,  their  only  and 
most  invalual>le  attendant,  made  the  fourth  person. 

In  the  mouth  of  Hudson's  Strait  the  '  Prince  of 
Wales'  narrowly  escaped  shipwreck,  just  off  the 
dreaded  rocky  shores  of  Resol  ition  Island ;  nor  was 
it  until  the  30th  of  August  tiiat  they  landed  at  York 
Factory :  for  few  voyages  of  an  equal  length  are  so 
tedious  or  so  dangerous  as  that  across  Hudson's  Bay. 

Not  until  June  does  that  great  sea,  as  it  should 
really  be  called,  open,  and  in  September  it  closes 
again ;  while  even  during  this  short  interval  it  is  so 
encumbered  with  ice,  and  so  disturbed  by  currents, 
that  navigation  is  very  dangerous. 

At  York  Factory,  which  is  one  of  the  Hudson's 
Bay  Company's  stations,  they  were  at  once  furnished 
with  a  very  large  and  suitable  boat,  provisions  and 
ammunition  for  their  inland  voyage,  as  well  as  with 
letters  from  the  governor  to  the  up-country  agents. 
At  the  same  place  also  they  happily  met  with  some 
of  the  North-west  Company's  agents,  from  whom 
they  received  further  inforre-ation,  as  well  as  an  as- 
surance of  a  welcome  at  any  of  their  stations  through 
which  they  might  pass. 

The  service  appointed  for  Commander  Franklin 
retjuired  him  to  examine  and  map  out  the  whole  line 


122 


SIR  JOHN  FRANKLIN. 


of  coast,  from  t)ie  roppennine  River  eastwfinl.  '  It 
was  therefore  \m  ImsiiiesH  in  the  first  place  to  reach 
tlie  mouth  of  that  river,  and  in  doing  so  to  travel 
over  the  country  traversed  in  the  preceding  century 
by  Hearne. 

He  must,  conse({ueiitIy,  pass  over  territory  oc- 
cupied by  those  iwo  rival  companies  to  wliieh  we 
have  referred;  and  as  the  feud  between  tlieni  was 
tlien  so  violent,  that  wherever  the  one  party  was  the 
stronger  it  made  a  point  of  oppressing  the  other,  to 
the  extent  of  imprisonment,  and  even  death,  it  re- 
•piired  the  exercise  of  all  Franklin's  natural  prudence 
to  keep  on  good  terms  with  both,  and  thus  to  obtain 
the  assistance  that  he  needed. 

As  soon,  therefore,  iis  he  entered  the  country 
lie  gave  orders  to  his  officers,  and  to  all  whom  they 
employed,  that  they  were  on  no  account  to  mix 
themselves  up  with  any  of  the  quarrels  which  must 
come  under  their  observation  :  and  the  wisdom  of 
this  order  was  most  happily  fully  appreciated  by 
them. 

As  has  been  already  stated,  the  little  band 
received  all  that  they  stood  in  need  of  from  the 
officials  of  the  elder  company  at  York  Factory. 
They  then  immediately  made  the  best  of  their  way 
on  to  Cumberland  House,  on  Pine-island  l.ake,  in 
order  to  get  into  that  chain  of  lakes  by  which  tli^ 
might  reach  the  Coppermine  River.  They  arrived 
at  Cumberland  on  October  22nd,  after  having  tra- 
velled about  700  miles  by  means  of  ten  rivers  and 
nine   lakes,   and  passed   over    many   rocks,   rapids, 


mm 


«i 


I.IN. 

River  oivstwiinl.  '  It 
!  first  place  to  reuch 
1  doing  so  to  travel 
?  preceding  century 

i  over  territory  oc- 
panies  to  wliicli  we 
between  tlieni  was 
le  one  party  was  the 
ret^sing  the  other,  to 
1  even  death,  it  re- 
n's  natural  prudence 
I,  and  thus  to  obtain 

ntered  the  country 
d  to  all  whom  they 
no  account  to  mix 
]uarrels  which  must 
and  the  wisdom  of 
idly  appreciated  by 

i,  the  little  band 
I  need  of  from  the 
at  York  Factory. 
le  best  of  their  way 
*ine-island  Lake,  in 
lakes  by  which  they 
liver.  They  arrived 
id,  after  having  tra- 
is  of  ten  rivers  and 
lany   rocks,   rapids, 


THK  '  LAN])l-24  HTEBILISS.' 


123 


and    portages,    Messrs.    Hood    and    Back    making 
sketches  as  they  went  along. 

Now  York  Factory  is  situated  in  about  57°  N. 
lat.,  and  is  therefore  only  a  degree  or  two  more 
northerly  than  the  north  of  England;  and  ingoing  to 
Cumberland  House  they  had  first  to  pass,  for  a  little 
while,  even  more  to  the  s  uth :  nor  was  it  for  some 
months  to  come  that  they  reached  a  really  high  latitude. 

But  Arctic  weather  and  an  Arctic  climate  are 
not,  in  vhe  New  World,  confined  within  the  boun- 
daries of  the  Arctic  circle  ;  i.  e.  23°  south  of  the 
Pole.  They,  in  fact,  reign  even  down  to  about,  on 
an  average,  50°  N.  lat. :  that  is,  fully  to  the  south  of 
James'  Bay,  which  our  readers  will  remember  is 
the  very  southern  part  of  Hudson's  Bay. 

The  Arctic  lands  thus  alone — to  say  nothing 
of  the  seas  beyond — embrace  al)out  30°  of  latitude, 
and  the  most  part  of  these  lands  are  denominated 
by  the  Canadians  '  landes  stenles.^ 

It  was,  however,  through  their  more  southerly 
part  that  Franklin  was  for  some  months  passing  ; 
and  yet,  when  speaking  even  of  that  part  during  the 
winter's  journey,  he  says  that  the  mercury  of  the 
thermometer  actually  froze  in  the  bulb,  so  that 
they  poidd  not  ascertain  the  state  of  the  atmosphere. 
The  rapid  changes  in  the  temperature  are  on  another 
occasion  recorded  by  his  young  companion.  Hood, 
who  tells  us  in  his  journal  that  on  one  day  the 
thermometer  was  down  to  15°  below  zero,  and  that 
the  next  it  had  risen  to  60°  above  it.  This  was  in 
the  end  of  March,  and  in  April  it  went  up  to  77° 


If 


4  t 
I 


mmr 


124 


SIH  JOHN  FRANKLIN. 


in  the  shade,  when  the  various  water-fowl  began  to 
return,  and  tlie  whole  country  was  deluged  by  the 
sudden  thaw.  Then,  he  continues,  '  the  noise  made 
by  the  frogs  was  almost  incredible.'  These  reptiles 
seem  to  outlive  even  a  hard  winter,  and  after  being 
frozen  hard  for  a  long  time  may  be  thawed  and 
revived  by  warmth.  This  was  an  assertion  which 
had  previously  been  doubted,  but  various  experiments 
have  fully  proved  its  truth,  not  only  in  tlie  case  of 
frogs  but  also  in  regard  to  some  other  animals. 

This  is,  indeed,  just  the  region  in  which  to  study 
njiture  in  its  primitive  state.  Tlie  very  crust  of  the 
earth  seems  to  remain  much  the  same  as  at  the 
moment  in  which  the  globe  assumed  its  present  form  ; 
on  its  shores  there  appear,  amid  the  blocks  of  ice, 
the  rough  peaks  of  huge  primeval  rocks,  which  have 
been  undermined  by  the  force  of  the  elements,  in- 
termingled here  and  there  with  the  entire  skeletons 
of  whales  and  other  enormous  creatures ;  while 
scattered  over  the  land  there  are  numerous  specimens 
of  the  animal  creation,  often  peculiar  to  itself;  and  in 
the  air  are  seen  vast  swarms  of  tiny  creatures,  whose 
stings  in  summer-time  are  said  to  constitute  a  plague 
to  -vhich  every  other  kind  of  hardship,  even  those  of 
cold  and  hunger,  must  be  allowed  to  yield  the  palm. 

But  to  proceed  with  our  story. 

The  little  party  met  with  the  greatest  kindness 
at  Fort  Cumberland ;  and  as  tjie  first  idea  was  to 
make  this  their  winter  quarters,  the  governor  began 
at  once  to  enlarge  his  premises,  in  orucr  to  accom- 
modate them  the  better. 


aiN. 

water-fowl  began  to 
was  deluged  by  the 
lies,  '  the  noiMe  made 
ible.'  These  reptiles 
iter,  aud  after  being 
may  be  thawed  aud 
i  an  assertion  which 
t  various  experiments 
t  only  in  tlie  case  of 
t  other  animals, 
ion  in  which  to  study 
riie  very  crust  of  the 
the  same  as  at  the 
raed  its  present  form  ; 
id  tlie  blocks  of  ice, 
'^al  rocks,  which  have 
of  the  elements,  in- 
i  the  entire  skeletons 
us  creatures ;  while 
!  numerous  specimens 
uliarto  itself;  and  in 
tiny  creatures,  whose 
to  constitute  a  plague 
irdship,  even  those  of 
ed  to  yield  the  palm, 
ry. 

he  greatest  kindness 
tlie  first  idea  was  to 
,  the  governor  began 
1,  in  orucr  to  accom- 


SNOW-SHOE8. 


125 


Thsse  European  forts  are  all  very  much  alike, 
and  consist  generally  of  a  little  group  of  dwellings, 
enclosed  in  a  palisade,  in  the  midst  of  a  desolate 
wilderness  of  ice,  or  of  forests,  or  of  desert  lands. 

They  contain  each  about  a  dozen  men,  some  of 
whom  have  families;  and  their  buLiess  is  to  carry 
on  the  traffic  in  furs  with  the  surrounding  natives. 

But  Franklin  soon  became  convinced,  by  the  in- 
formation which  he  collected,  that  some  of  his  party 
ought  to  proceed  at  once  to  one  of  tl:e  stations  on 
the  Athabaska  Lake,  and  even,  if  possible,  to  the 
northward  of  the  Great  Slave  Lake  beyond,  as  it 
was  found  that  only  there  could  guides,  hunters,  and 
interpreters,  be  obtained.  Ever  ready  to  take  the 
hardest  work  himself,  he  arranged  to  proceed  on  this 
journey  with  Mr.  Back  »■  =  Hepburn,  while  Dr. 
Kichardson  and  Mr.  Hood  remained  wliere  they 
were  until  the  spring,  collecting  specimens  and 
making  drawings  and  scientific  observations. 

It  was  on  the  19th  of  January  that  they  set  out 
from  Cumberland  Fort  for  Chipewyan,  a  station  on 
the  north-western  extremity  of  Atliabaska  Lake, 
having  been  provided  by  Governor  V'illiama  witl»  two 
sledges  and  provisions  for  fifteen  days.  Tlie  distance 
to  be  traversed  was  857  miles  ;  and  the  snow  at  tliis 
season  was  so  deep  that,  even  in  their  snow-shoes, 
they  were  obliged  to  keep  to  tlie  fioisen  surface  of 
rivers  and  lakes  whenever  it  was  necessary  to  go  on 
foot. 

These  snow-shoes,  although  necessary,  cause 
all  travellers  much   suffering,  and  more   especially 


j; 


Jit 


12() 


SI11J<;HN  FRANKLIN. 


those  vvlio  iiri'  iinc'iecustomod  t"  iliem.  The  frame- 
work is  formed  of  two  parallel  bars  of  wood,  joined 
together  hy  transverse  bars,  those  over  the  instep 
being  curved  to  admit  the  foot;  each  shoe  or 
raqueUe  weighs  two  or  tluee  pounds,  and  they  vary 
in  length  from  four  to  six  feet.  To  use  them  at 
first,  without  falling  is,  therefore,  very  difficult ;  and 
once  down,  it  is  no  easy  matter  to  get  up  again 
without   help. 

Mr.  Hood,  after  onee  trying  them,  described  the 
misery  whicli  they  produce  as  so  great  that  '  no 
object  will  divert'  the  mind  of  the  wearer  *  from  his 
own  agonizing  sensation^,','  He  says  tliat  '  he  feels 
his  fVanie  crushed  by  unaccoimtable  pressure,  he 
drags  a  galling  and  stubborn  weight  at  his  feet,  and 
his  track  is  marked  by  blood.' 

The  travellers'  other  clothing  was,  however, 
more  comfortable.  A  large  c«pe,  furnished  with  a 
hood  to  protect  the  head  and  neck  from  the  snow, 
covered  their  shoidders;  leathern  trousers  and  mo- 
cassins of  elk-skin  the  legs;  and  over  all  came  a 
large  fur  mantle,  confined  round  the  waist  by  a 
belt,  to  which  was  attached  a  bottle,  a  knife,  and  a 
hatchet. 

Thus  equipped  they  travelled  on  by  day,  and  at 
night  thought  themselves  happy  if  they  could  meet 
with  a  patch  «f  fir-trees,  in  the  centre  of  which  they 
could  encamp. 

On  their  way  they  met  from  time  to  time  with 
various  parties  of  Indians — the  Chipewyan,  the 
Cree,  and  the  Stone  Indians;  the  latter  being  the 


LIN. 

lliem.  The  frame- 
bars  of  wood,  joined 
lose  over  the  instep 
oot ;  eacli  shoe  or 
>undR,  and  tliey  vary 
t.  To  use  them  at 
,  very  difficult ;  and 
er  to  get  up  again 

tliem,  described  tlie 
so  great  that  *  no 

he  wearer  *  from  his 
says  tliafc  '  he  feels 

intable   pressure,  he 

sight  at  his  feet,  and 

ling  was,  liowever, 
)e,  fuiTiished  with  a 
eck  from  the  snow, 
n  trousers  and  mo- 
[1(1  over  all  came  a 
nd  the  waist  by  a 
ottle,  a  knife,  and  a 

A  on  by  day,  and  at 
f  if  they  could  meet 
centre  of  which  they 

I  time  to  time  with 
lie  Chipewyan,  the 
he  latter  being  the 


AKAITCilo. 


127 


most  prepossessing  in  apiKmrunce,  but  '  addicted  to 
stealing  whatever  tliey  can,'  especiully  horses,  which 
tiicy  declare  to  have  been  iul ended  as  comniou 
property. 

It  wan  the  end  of  March  when  they  reached  Fort 
Chipewyan, one  of  the  most  ancient  and  important  of 
these  isolated  posts;  and  here,  in  July,  they  were 
joined  by  Dr.  Richardson  and  Mr.  Hood.  Mt^an- 
time  Franklin  had  been  holding  communication 
with  other  stations,  and  had  arranged  to  receive  two 
interpreters  on  their  arrival  at  Great  Slave  Lake. 
Sixteen  Canadian  voyageurs  an<l  one  Chipewyan 
woman  were  at  once  engaged,  atid  with  their  pro- 
visions stowed  away  in  three  canoes  they  set  ofT  up 
the  Peace  liiver,  paddling  merrily  along  to  a  livelv 
boat-song,  sung  by  the  three  crews,  until  out  of 
sight  of  the  fort. 

On  arriving  at  Moose-d(ier  Island,  one  of  the 
North-west  Company's  stations,  they  secured  Pierre 
St.  Germain  as  an  interpreter  for  the  Copper  Indians, 
and  further  supplies;  and  at  Fort  Providence  the 
second  interpreter,  Jean  Baptiste  Adam.  A  Mr. 
Wentzel  also  joined  them  as  superintendent  of  the 
Canadians,  and  to  manage  the  Indians  and  get 
supplies ;  to  which  kind  of  work  he  had  been  accus- 
tomed for  twenty  years. 

A  very  celebrated  chief,  named  Akaitcho,  also 
here  paid  them  a  visit,  and  made  a  speech,  in  which 
he  declared  himself  the  white  man's  friend,  and  said 
that  his  tribe,  who  had  received  kindnesses  from  white 
men,  would  gladly  attend  them  to  their  journey's  end. 


w 


128 


HIR  JOHN  FKANKLIN. 


Provisionn  had  been  running  short  at  Chipewyan, 
and  Franklin  had  gladly  left  that  station  with  Nupplies 
for  one  day  only,  lest  he  should  bring  famine  on  the 
household,  whose  expected  supplies  had  not  yet 
arrived.  He  hod  been  abl  to  add  to  his  small  stock, 
as  we  have  seen  ;  but,  as  all  through  their  journey, 
tliey  knew  that  they  must  depend  greatly  on  hunting 
and  fishing,  no  offer  of  assiHtance  was  to  be  despised, 
and  Akaitcho  therefore  received  a  welcome  and 
liearty  thanks. 

He  had  heard  of  Captain  Parry,  and  inquired 
with  interest  after  his  ships,  while  he  took  pains  to 
inform  hilnself  of  the  object  of  tliis  land  expedition  ; 
and  paid  particular  compliments  to  each  of  the 
officers,  especially  to  '  the  great  medicine  chief,' 
Dr.  Richardson. 

FVanklin  was  now,  therefore,  in  a  condition  to 
proceed  at  once  towards  the  valley  of  the  Copper- 
mine, and  on  the  2d  of  August,  after  engaging  another 
('anadiau  and  three  women,  the  wives  of  some  of  the 
voyageurs,  to  make  clotlies  and  shoes  for  the  men  at 
tlieir  winter  quarters,  the  journey  wtus  commenced  ; 
and  they  began  travelling  due  north,  ))ut  with  only 
food  sufficient  for  ten  days'  consumption. 

In  this  journey  they  endured  many  privations ; 
and  before  it  came  to  an  end,  the  Canadians  became 
so  discontented  that  they  declared  that  tJiey  would 
not  proceed  further  imless  moi,-  food  were  given  to 
them.  Franklin  was  obligt^d  to  speak  to  then»  in  the 
strongest  terms,  of  his  determination  to  inflict  the 
severest  punishment  on  any  one  who  rebelled ;  while 


'!!Si'jjiit-!P..'.u."iytjaaai 


BBBW!ffSK3ffij^ 


LIN. 

short  at  Chipewyan, 
station  with  HupplieH 
bring  famine  on  the 
)plie8  had  not  yet 
d  to  his  small  stock, 
ough  their  journey, 
A  greatly  on  hunting 
e  was  to  be  despised, 
ed    a  welcome  and 

Parry,  and  inquired 
le  he  took  pains  to 
his  land  expedition ; 
nts  to  each  of  the 
at    medicine  chief,' 

?,  in  a  condition  to 
lley  of  the  Copper- 
ter  engaging  another 
wives  of  some  of  the 
shoeH  for  the  men  at 
py  wtus  commenced ; 
jorth,  ))ut  with  only 
tsumption. 
id  many  privations; 
e  Canadians  became 
•ed  that  tliey  would 
food  were  given  to 
speak  to  then»  in  the 
lation  to  inflict  the 
who  rebelled ;  while 


TKDIOUS  TBAVKLr.rNO. 


129 


he  felt  all  the  while  that  few  could  bear  such  suf- 
ferings without  murmuring.  Just  at  this  critical 
point,  however,  some  hunters  arrived,  bringing  car- 
cases of  rein  -deer,  —  a  welcome  sight  to  the  travellei-s. 
'  The  counted  length  of  the  portages  we  had 
rossed  since  leaving  Fort  Providence,'  wrote  Frank- 
lin, •  is  twenty-one  statute  miles  and  a  half;  and  as 
our  men  had  to  traverse  each  portage  four  times, 
with  a  load  of  180  lbs.,  and  return  three  times  light, 
they  walked  in  the  whole  upwards  of  1 50  miles.  The 
total  length  of  our  voyage  from  Chipewyar  is  553 
miles.  In  the  afternoon  we  read  Divine  Service,  and 
oflFered  our  thanksgiving  to  the  Almighty  for  His 
goodness  in  having  brought  us  thtis  far  on  our  journey ; 
a  duty  which  we  never  neglected  when  stationary  on 
the  Sabbath.'     - 

At  length  they  reached  the  spot  where  it  soon 
appeared  that  they  must  be  content  to  winter ;  and 
the  voyageurs  set  to  work  with  alacrity  to  build  a 
house,  which  they  named  Fort  Enterprise. 

Franklin,  however,  was  so  anxious  to  proceed, 
that  it  was  some  time  before  he  could  settle  down 
patiently  ;  but  the  old  chief,  Akaitcho,  refused  to  let 
his  Indians  go  further  that  season,  and  at  length, 
when  Franklin  had  been  remonstrating  and  warmly 
urging  the  matter,  Akaitcho  replied,— 

•  Well,  I  have  said  everything  I  can  urge  to  dis- 
suade you  from  going  on  this  service,  on  which  it 
seems  you  wish  to  sacrifice  your  own  lives,  as  well  as 
the  Indians  who  might  attend  you ;  however,  if  after 
all  I  have  said  you  are  determined  to  go,  some  of 

K 


if 


130 


HIR  JOHN  PUANKLIN. 


my  young  men  Bhall  join  the  party,  becauoo  it  ithall 
not  be  Baid  that  we  permitted  you  to  die  alone,  after 
having  brought  you  hither :  but,  from  the  moment 
they  embark  in  the  canoes,  I  and  their  relatives  Bhall 
lament  them  as  dead.' 

The  two  young  men,  Hood  and  Rack,  were  there- 
fore Bent  on  in  a  light  canoe,  with  a  few  Canadians 
and  an  Indian,  to  And  out  the  distance  from  Copper- 
mine River,  and  its  size ;  while  Franklin  himself,  with 
Dr.  Richardson,  set  off  on  a  pedestrian  expedition 
to  the  same  point. 

After  much  Buffering  from  cold  and  hunger  both 
parties  got  back  on  the  same  day,  and  were  glad  to 
reach  Fort  Enterprise  safely ;  but  they  very  soon  dis- 
covered that  they  had  not,  and  wore  not  likely  to 
obtain,  a  sufficient  ({uantity  of  food  to  carry  them  on 
to  the  sea. 

On  hearing  this,  the  ardent  young  Back  instantly 
volunteered  to  return  to  Fort  Providence,  and,  if  ne- 
cessary, even  to  Chipewyan,  to  hasten  forward  the 
supplies  which  were  expected  from  Cumberland 
House;  and  on  the  18th  October  he  set  off  with 
Mr.  Wentzel,  two  Canadians,  two  Indians,  and  their 
wives.  Wentzel,  on  reaching  Fort  Providence,  found 
there  two  Esquimaux  guides,  with  whom  he  re- 
turned in  December  to  the  fort,  aad  wliose  long 
names  were  changed  into  Augustus  and  Francis. 

But  Back  went  on  to  Chipewyan,  and  did  not 
reach  his  party  again  until  the  17th  of  March, 
after  travelling  on  foot  ond  in  snow-shoes  more 
than    1100  miles,  with   only  a  slight  covering  at 


t'«u!jia).'..ta,t,»AB'.'aaM 


W9SSW 


AH. 

rty,  becauHo  it  ohall 

u  to  die  alone,  after 

b,  from  the  moment 

tiieir  relatives  shall 

id  Back,  were  there- 
ith  a  few  Canadians 
stance  from  Copper- 
'anklin  himself,  with 
idestrian  expedition 

)ld  and  hunger  both 
y,  and  were  glad  to 
t  they  very  soon  dis- 
wore  not  likely  to 
od  to  carry  them  on 

onng  Back  instantly 
)vidence,  and,  if  ne- 
hasten  forward  the 
from  Cumberland 
ler  he  set  off  with 
>  Indians,  and  their 
•t  Providence,  found 
with  whom  he  re- 
nt, aad  wliose  long 
Btus  and  Francis, 
swyan,  and  did  not 
le  17th  of  March, 
1  snow-shoes  more 
slight  covering  at 


HACK  H  JOlfRNKV. 


131 


night,  and   often   spending  days  together  without 
food. 

The  Indians  who  accompanied  him  were  happily 
his  very  good  friends,  and  most  generously  refused 
at  times  to  taste  the  fish  or  birds  which  they  catight ; 
saying,  '  We  are  accustomed  to  starvation,  and  you 
are  not.' 

•  One  of  our  men,'  he  relates, « caught  a  fish,  which, 
with  the  addition  of  some  weed  scraped  from  the 
rocks,  called  tripe  dee  roches,  made  us  a  very  tolerable 
supper  .  .  .  While  we  were  eating  it,  I  perceived 
one  of  the  women  busily  scraping  an  old  skin,  with 
the  contents  of  which  her  husband  presented  us. 
This  consisted  chiefly  of  pounded  meat,  fat,  and  a 
greater  proportion  of  Indian's  and  deer's  hair,  than 
either ;  and  though  such  a  mixture  may  not  appear 
very  alluring  to  an  English  stomach,  it  was  thought 
a  great  luxury,  after  three  days'  privation  in  these 
cheerless  regions.' 

On  one  occasion,  when  the  Indians  and  their 
wives  complained  of  illness  and  want  of  rest.  Back 
served  out  to  them  a  flagon  of  mixed  spirits,  and 
enjoyed  the  spectacle  of  their  happiness ;  for  they 
had  won  his  esteem,  not  only  by  their  generous 
kindness  towards  himself,  but  by  the  affection 
which  they  manifested  towards  their  wives  and 
children. 

During  this  journey  Back  had  many  narrow 
escapes :  falling  once  through  the  ice,  and  another 
time  feeling  it  bend  under  him  so  much  that  he  had 
to  run  at  his  full  speed  to  get  off  before  it  gave  \  ay. 


n 


isa 


HIU  JOHN  ntANKUN. 


Oil  the  wliiiUt,  indued,  tliiM  journey  k  one  uf  the  niutit 
reinarkahh)  on  record. 

Meantime,  at  Fort  Enterprisn  the  anxietien  and 
MufferingH  of  \m  companionH  hod  l)een  hy  no  means 
inconHiderubU). 

».  A  good  quantity  of  fish  had  been  taken  in  the 
season,  hut  by  tlie  5th  of  November  tlje  fiHhing  had 
quite  failed,  and  was  given  up. 

Tlie  houMe,  however,  liad  been  finialied  Home 
days  Iniforo;  but  on  the  name  day,  unfortunately, 
Akaitcho  and  hib  hunters  came  in,  forty  souls  in  all, 
who  expected  to  l)o  provided  for. 

One  of  the  voyagours  who  started  with  Back  was 
tlie  first  to  cheer  them  by  his  return.  He  came  iu 
crustt^d  f)ver  with  ice,  but  brought  letters  from  Eng- 
land, and  some  news  of  the  provisions ;  which  had, 
however,  it  appeared,  by  some  mistake,  gone  astray : 
so  that  another  party  had  to  be  sent  out  to  ussiat  in 
bringing  them  in. 

At  length  Akaitcho  and  his  people  were  induced 
f-)  leave  the  camp  once  more,  as  there  was  no  possi- 
bility of  feeding  them ;  but  he  insisted  on  leaving 
behind  his  wife  and  daughter,  and  some  other  women, 
to  bo  taken  care  of.  The  daughter  was  looked  upon 
as  the  belle  of  the  tribe,  and  was  named  Green 
Stockings.  Though  only  sixteen,  she  had  had  two 
husbands;  and  her  mother,  who  wanted  hev  as  a 
nurse,  did  not  altogether  approve  of  her  portrait 
being  taken  by  Mr.  Hood,  fearing  that  the  •  Great 
Chief  in  England  might  send  for  her. 

The  party  lived  chiefly  on  pemmican ;  that  is. 


iiiwiiwmrji 


>)'§Msm 


iSBewMaaagggiar 


I.IN. 

ly  k  on(«  uf  tliu  luuiit 

go  tho  nnxiotieii  nnd 
A  l>uen  l>y  no  ineana 

tl  been  taken  in  the 
ibor  tilt!  fiHliin^  hud 

been   finiHlied  Home 

(hiy,  unfortunately, 

in,  forty  houIh  in  nil, 

arted  with  Back  whh 
Bturn.  He  camn  iu 
ht  letters  from  Enj?- 
)vi8iona;  which  had, 
listake,  gone  astray : 
Hent  out  to  UHHiat  in 

people  were  induced 
3  there  was  no  possi- 

insisted  on  leaving 
d  some  other  women, 
ter  was  looked  upon 

was  named  Green 
!n,  she  had  had  two 
10  wanted  hev  as  a 
•ove  of  her  portrait 
ing  that  the  <  Great 

for  her. 
oemmican ;  that  is. 


TIIK  AIMIOItA  IIOUKALIH. 


133 


the  fleHh  of  the  rein-deer  kneiided  up  info  n  kind  of 
piiHte  with  flit:  they  hail  no  vegetabloB,  and  but  little 
tloiir. 

Kaeli  day  they  drank  twice  of  tea  without  nugar, 
and  on  Sunday  had  a  cup  of  ehocolut*'.  For  ten 
whole  montliH  were  the  party  whut  up  here;  but  the 
officorH,  we  are  tohl,  generally  found  plenty  of  em- 
ployment in  writing  their  journals,  calculating  their 
obMc>rvations,  and  finishing  their  druwingH. 

Tho  aurora  shone  out  fre(iuently  with  great 
brilliancy,  and  they  took  particular  pains  in  Htudy- 
ing  this  remarkable  phenomenon.  Its  influence  on 
the  magnet  they  established  to  be  a  fad ,  but  could 
never  assure  thomwilves  of  the  trtilli  of  the  report 
that  it  is  accompanieil  by  Strang  noiseH.  In  the 
evening  they  joined  the  men  in  tlie  hall,  and  took 
part  in  their  games. 

Sunday  was  always  kept  in  tho  best  way  that 
was  possible,  and  the  woodmen  bad  to  provide  on 
Saturday  for  all  that  would  be  required,  while 
Divine  service  was  regularly  performed ;  at  which 
the  Canadians,  though  Romanists,  and  not  well 
acquainted  with  English,  always  attended. 

Franklin  regretted  that  he  had  not  with  him  a 
French  Prayer-book  ;  but  he  says  that  the  Creed  and 
the  Lord's  Prayer  were  always  read  to  them  in  their 
own  language. 

During  their  stay  here,  Hepburn  became  an  ex- 
perienced soap  and  candle  maker;  and  when  this 
operation  was  going  on  no  woman  was  allowed  to 
come  near  the  kettle,  as  it  is  considered  a  veiy 


^  ■ 


134 


SIR  JOHN  FRANKLIN. 


mysterious  operation  by  the  Canadians,  and  always 
supposed  to  fail  if  a  woman  is  present. 

On  the  1st  day  of  the  new  year,  1821,  an  at- 
tempt was  made  at  something  like  festivities;  bu^ 
the  provisions  were  very  low,  and  they  had  no  spirits 
to  give  the  people.  A  fortnight  aft«r,  however,  a 
large  supply  of  food  came  down  from  Fort  Provi- 
den(!ft ;  but  by  the  end  of  March  they  were  regain  so 
low  that  sometimes  they  had  but  one  meal  a-day. 

>(either  hunting  nor  fishing  produced  anything 
at  this  season ;  and  the  sufferings  of  the  Indians, 
who  crowded  round  the  house,  were  terrible.  Frank- 
lin says  that  he  had  often  tried  to  persuade  them  to 
move  to  Akaitcho's  lodge,  but  that  the  mo,-  part  of 
them  were  sick  or  infirm,  and  did  not  like  to  lose 
the  daily  medicines  which  Dr.  Richardson  gave 
them.  They  would  clear  away  the  snow  to  look  for 
bones,  deers'  feet,  bits  of  leather,  and  other  offal ; 
and  little  did  the  English  think  when  they  saw  them 
boiling  those  down  that  they  would  one  day  be 
reduced  even  to  collect  the  very  same  bones  from 
the  dunghill. 

Things  improved,  however,  when  spring  came 
and  the  rein-deer  returned ;  and  now  they  b^an  to 
think  of  the  long  journey  down  the  Coppermine 
River  to  the  coast,  and  ea8twu,fd. 

Before  they  l^ft,  the  Indian  chief  faithfully  pio- 
mised  that  pro-.isions  should  be  brought  tc  Fort  En- 
terprise before  next  September,  in  case  they  should 
return  that  way ;  and  on  the  4th  June  the  first  party, 
under  Dr.  Richardson,  set  off.  Captain  Franklin  fol- 


-'■^^mmmmmms 


wim^^smmsm-L-. 


BP 


hJKLIN. 


ANTIPATHY  BCTWEEN  INDIANS  AND  ESQUIMAUX.     135 


Cauadmns,  and  always 
I  present. 

ew  year,  1821,  an  ut- 
g  like  festivities;  bu^ 
md  they  had  no  spirits 
ight  aft«r,  however,  a 
own  from  Fort  Provi- 
rch  they  were  regain  so 
but  one  meal  a-day. 
ing  produced  anything 
irings  of  the  Indians, 
,  were  terrible.  Frank- 
jd  to  persuade  them  to 

that  the  mo.-  part  of 
d  did  not  like  to  lose 

Dr.  Hichardson  gave 
ly  the  snow  to  look  for 
ther,  and  other  offai ; 
k  when  they  saw  them 
y  would  one  day  be 
rery  same  bones  from 

r,  when  spring  came 
md  now  they  began  to 
own  the  Coppermine 
'u,fd. 

n  chief  faithfully  pio- 
B  brought  tc  Fort  En- 
r,  in  case  they  should 
;h  June  the  first  party. 
Captain  Franklin  fol- 


lowing on  the  14th,  with  three  canoes,  each  dragged 
by  four  men  and  two  dogs. 

They  all  set  out  on  foot,  and  with  a  very  scanty 
store  of  provisions.  The  men  who  had  to  carry 
the  canoes  over  the  poi-tages  had  dreadfully  fatiguing 
work,  and  many  of  them  became  lame ;  so  that  at 
Point  Lake  one  canoe  v/as  left  behind.  Franklin 
and  two  others  fell  through  the  ice  in  crossing  a 
lake,  but  escaped  unhurt;  and  by  the  end  of  the 
month  they  were  all  able  to  embark  on  the  Copper- 
mine. 

Very  soon  now  they  expected  to  meet  no  longer 
Indians,  but  Esquimaux;  and  knowing  the  deadl; 
hatred  that  seems  always  to  have  existed  between  the 
two  races,  Franklin  earnestly  endeavoured  to  per- 
suade Akaitclio  and  his  Indians  to  come  to  terms 
with  them. 

This  they  promised  to  do,  but  it  was  evident 
that  they  greatly  dreaded  the  meeting;  and  when 
he  further  proposed  that,  until  he  had  himself  come 
to  a  good  understanding  with  them,  they  should 
remain  in  the  background,  they  altogether  declined, 
saying  that  they  were  not  strong  enough  alone  to 
encounter  a  surprise,  and  that  they  would  travel  with 
the  English,  or  return  as  quickly  as  possible  to  their 
own  more  southerly  country.  On  the  other  hand, 
they  soon  observed  equal  tokens  of  fear  among  the 
parties  of  Esquimaux,  who  all  retired  into  their  own 
solitudes  at  their  approach,  and  on  the  18th  the 
Indians  beat  a  retreat,  promising  to  meet  them  at 
Fort  Enterprise.     Mr.  Wentzel  and  four  Canadians 


iai: 


^"'•-  '^%-^'r!-.:^,rt^;,  ■r>f^-- 


136 


SIR  JOHN  FRANKLIN. 


were  also  sent  back  next  day  to  Slave  Lake,  in  order 
to  reduce  their  numbers ;  and  that  he  might  forward 
despatches  to  England,  and  see  that  the  Indians  fid- 
filled  their  promise  regarding  the  provisions. 

Before  triis  date,  however,  they  had  got  a  dis- 
tinct view  of  the  sea,  and  had  had  good  success  in 
killing  several  musk  oxen. 

These  creatures  abound  in  this  part  of  the  coun- 


Hunk  Ox. 


try,  and  it  is  aaid  that^  on  being  attacked,  they  herd 
closer  together ;  so  that  several  are  easily  killed. 
According  to  their  instructions,  they  searched  care- 
fully for  copper  all  along  the  course  of  the  river,  but 
only  found  a  few  pieces. 

On  their  arrival  ai  the  rapid  named  by  Heame 
'  the  Bloody  Falls,'  from  the  dreadful  conflict  which 
he  had  there  witnessed  between  the  two  native  races. 


N. 

ave  Lake,  in  order 
i  he  might  forward 
at  the  Indians  fid- 
provisions, 
ey  liad  got  a  dis- 
d  good  success  in 

8  part  of  the  coun- 


EMBARKINO  ON  THE  OCEAN. 


137 


attacked,  they  herd 

are  easily  killed. 

hey  searched  care- 

se  of  the  river,  but 

named  by  Heame 
Iful  conflict  which 
e  two  native  races. 


they  found  that  it  abounded  with  excellent  salmon, 
of  which  they  caught  forty  in  one  net. 

The  cascade  is  bounded  on  each  side  by  walls  of 
red  sandstone,  having  lofty  green  hills  on  either  side. 

On  their  arrival  at  the  sea-coast  some  of  the 
Canadian  voyageurs,  who  liad  never  seen  the  sea  be- 
fore, were  at  first  amused,  especially  at  sight  of  the 
seals  swimming  about ;  but  they  soon  began  to  trem- 
ble at  the  idea  of  a  long  polar  voyage  in  two  birch- 
bark  canoes ;  and  Hepburn  had  to  exert  his  powers 
of  rhetoric  to  make  them  ashamed  of  their  fears. 

The  whole  remaining  party,  amounting  to  but 
twenty,  however,  at  length  embarked.  They  had 
travelled  from  their  winter  quarters  a  distance  of 
334  miles,  of  which  the  canoes  and  baggage  had  been 
dragged  over  snow  and  ice  117;  and  now  they  had 
food  but  for  fifteen  days. 

On  the  2l8t  July  the  embarkation  took  place; 
and  they  paddled  all  day  amidst  a  number  of  rocky 
islands,  the  water  being  little  encumbered  with  ice, 
but  very  full  of  drift-wood. 

After  proceeding  thirty-seven  miles,  they  en- 
camped just  where  the  coast  was  covered  with  vege- 
tation, and  found  here  some  mussel-shells.  Three 
groups  of  islands  were  named  by  them  'Berens,' 
'  Sir  Graham  Moore,'  and  '  Lawford.'  Beyond,  the 
coast  was  barren  and  dreary;  but  they  came  to 
the  conclusion  that  all  ice  is  there  melted  in  the 
summer. 

Provisions  were  again  running  short,  especially 
as  two  bags  of  pemmican  had  turned  mouldy,  and 


it 


138 


SIR  JOHN  FRANKLIN. 


tlie  beef  was  scarcely  eatable ;  and  hitherto  only  one 
deer  had  been  killed  and  three  salmon-trout  taken  : 
80,  after  passing  the  entrances  of  two  bays,  the  hunters 
were  senv  ashore,  and  soon  returned  with  two  small 
deer  and  a  brown  bear. 

Of  all  the  inleta  and  sounds  which  they  passed 
as  good  charts  as  possible  were  made  during  their 
progress.  One  was  named  Arctic  Sound ;  another, 
Bathurst;  and  another,  Melville;  and  the  whole 
large  gulf,  in  which  all  these  inlets  were,  was  called 
Coronation  Gulf;  and  its  extreme  point,  Cape  Turn- 
again,  l)eeauso  they  were  now  txilerably  certain  that 
this  w<nild  prove  the  end  of  their  voyage,  as  the  sea- 
son was  far  advanced,  and  the  provisions  were  rapidly 
failing,  while  they  were  at  a  great  distance  from  any 
trading  stations. 

A  violent  storm  came  on  soon  afterwards,  and  the 
canoes  having  become  all  but  useless,  it  was  therefore 
determined  to  abandon  further  discovery,  and  to 
return  by  way  of  a  river  in  Arctic  Sound,  which  had 
been  named  Hood's  River.  This  way  was  chosen 
because  game  had  there  been  found  more  plentiful 
than  elsewhere,  and  because  their  canoes  would 
hardly  carry  them  further.  They  proposed,  when 
once  in  this  river,  to  make  smtdler  canoes  out  of  their 
damaged  ones,  which  could  also  be  more  easily 
carried  across  the  barren  grounds  to  Fort  Enterprise. 

It  was  a  great  falling  short  of  what  they  had 
proposed  at  starting,  which  was  to  go  as  far  as  that 
bay  named  Repulse  Bay  by  Captain  Middleton  in 
1741,  and  which  is  situated  only  just  to  the  west  of 


IN. 

I  hitherto  only  one 
ilmou-trout  taken : 
ro  bays,  the  hiinterH 
led  with  two  amaU 

which  they  passed 
made  during  their 
ic  Sound ;  another, 
e;  and  the  whole 
ts  were,  was  called 

point.  Cape  Turn- 
erably  certain  that 
voyage,  as  the  sea- 
(risions  were  rapidly 

distance  from  any 

afterwards,  and  the 
388,  it  was  therefore 

discovery,  and  to 
;  Sound,  which  had 
is  way  was  chosen 
und  more  plentiful 
beir  canoes  would 
ey  proposed,  when 
r  canoes  out  of  their 
BO  be  more  easily 
to  Fort  Enterprise. 
;  of  what  they  had 
to  go  as  far  as  that 
itain  Middleton  in' 
just  to  the  west  of 


WILBKHFORCK  V\UJ^. 


141 


Fox's  Channel :  but  there  was  no  help  for  it,  nor 
ftny  time  to  be  lost. 

The  Canadians  were  delighted  to  turn  their 
backs  on  the  sea,  and  eagerly  anticipated  the  plea- 
sure of  exchanging  their  one  scanty  meal  of  pemmi- 
can  for  the  eight  pounds  of  meat  daily  allowed  them 
by  the  Company.  Little,  indeed,  they  dreamed  of 
the  miseries  that  awaited  them. 

It  was  on  the  26th  of  August  that  tue  party 
encamped  at  the  first  rapid  on  Hood's  River ;  and 
some  days  before  this  the  thermometer  had  been 
down  to  freezing-point,  and  snow  lay  on  the  ground. 
They  had  already  once  been  reduced  to  sup  on 
berries  and  a  little  country  tea;  but  a  couple  of 
deer  were  killed  soon  after,  which  helped  them  on 

again. 

A  few  miles  up  Hood's  River  they  came  to  a 
magnificent  cascade,  200  feet  high,  which  Franklin 
named  Wilberforce  Falls.* 

About  this  point  they  were  detained  by  the 
necessity  of  making  new  canoes;  and  on  3rd  Sep- 
tember the  last  piece  of  pemmican,  and  a  little 
arrowroot,  were  served  out  for  supper. 

A  terrible  storm  lasted  for  some  days,  during 
which,  having  no  fire  or  food,  they  remained  whole 
days  in  bed. 

On  the  Vth,  when  about  to  proceed,  Franklin 
was  seized  with  a  fainting  fit,  but  recovered  on 
taking  a  little  portable  soup  at  the  urgent  request 
of  some  of  the  men. 

*  See  Frontispiece. 


?i^. 


'HiiiiiiiiitiiMiiugiiMiiiHUiSi 


14*2 


SIK  JOHN  KWANKLIN. 


Tlio  canot'-l)eareru,  weak  from  fasting,  weif 
often  blown  down  ;  and  one  canoe  being  broken  to 
pieces  was  used  to  make  a  fire,  by  wliich  the  remnnpts 
of  portab'e  soup  and  arrowroot  were  warmed  to 
serve  as  a  scanty  meal  afler  three  days'  fast.  A  few 
partridges,  and  the  lichen  called  tripe  ties  rochca, 
for  some  days  saved  them  from  starvation ;  yet  the 
latter  proved  to  many  very  injurious,  especially  to 
poor  Hood. 

On  the  10th  a  musk  ox  was  killed,  to  skin  and 
eat  up  which  was  but  the  work  of  a  few  minutes ; 
and  the  intestines,  which  were  eaten  raw,  were 
pronounced  delicious.  But  no  other  good  meal 
was  tasted  by  thom  for  many  days. 

At  length  many  of  the  Canadians  became  utterly 
wearied  out,  and  reckless ;  so  that,  though  it  may 
scarcely  be  credited,  the  nets  wc*!  thrown  away,  and 
the  floats  burnt. 

Both  the  canoes  also  were  abandoned  ;  and  thus 
they  were  left  without  any  means  of  water  transport. 
It  was  only  now  and  then  that  they  obtained  a 
partridge.  They  lived  on  the  tripe  des  rochea,  mosses, 
pieces  of  skin,  deers'  horns,  burnt  and  boiled  down, 
to  which  sometimes  their  own  old  shoes  were  added. 

Once,  however,  they  found  a  putrid  deer's  car- 
case, which  made  them  an  unexpected  meal,  as  did 
also  the  putrid  marrow  found  in  the  spine  of  another 
which  had  been  devoured  by  wolves. 

The  health  of  the  whole  party  was  now  rapidly 
giving  way :  Franklin  was  fearfully  weak,  and  Hood 
was  reduced  to  a  perfect  shadow,  while  Back  could 


fcrriijiwpi(WirfyKri»rf»r.MM-Wi^).ii*-*fafe» 


I  ...    .:'.J':!^^^if^.^.^-^^'   . 


,t  I 


LIN. 

from  fatiting,  were 
loe  being  broken  to 

wliich  tho  romnnpts 
)t  were  warmed  to 
B  dayH'  fast.  A  few 
d  tripe  des  rochcs, 

starvation ;  yet  the 
irious,  especially  to 

killed,  to  skin  and 

of  a  few  minutes; 

e  eaten   raw,   were 

I   other  good  meal 

8. 

iana  became  utterly 
mt,  though  it  may 
'I  thrown  away,  and 

andoned ;  and  thus 

of  water  transport. 

it  they  obtained  a 

des  roches,  mosses, 

t  and  boiled  down, 

:  slioes  were  added. 

putrid  deer's  car- 

pected  meal,  as  did 

he  spine  of  another 

ires. 

by  was  now  rapidly 
ly  weak,  and  Hood 
,  while  Back  could 


on.  ki('haki)w>n'h  noblk  (^onduci". 


143 


ff' 


only  walk  with  a  stick,  and  Dr.  Richardson  hatl,  in 
addition  to  his  weakness,  fallen  lame. 

On  the  24th  .September,  however,  five  yoimg 
deer  were  killed,  and  this  in  some  measure  restored 
the  spirits  of  the  party.  They  asked  for  a  day's 
rest,  that  they  might  quietly  enjoy  two  substantial 
meals  after  an  eight-days'  fust,  and  so  bo  able  to 
proceed  more  vigonmsly. 

On  the  26th  they  reached  a  lake  on  a  branch  of  the 
Coppermine  River,  and  then  began  bitterly  to  lament 
their  folly  in  destroying  the  canoes  and  floats ;  and 
Rack,  being  still  the  most  active  and  vigorous,  was 
sent  round  with  some  of  the  hunters  to  the  fort  before 
the  rest,  who  lost  several  days  in  trying  to  make 
a  raft ;  which,  when  at  last  finished,  they  had  great 
difficulty  in  launching,  and  which,  when  laimched, 
they  could  not  get  to  move  for  want  of  paddles,  and 
because  it  was  made  of  green  wood.  Yet  they 
knew  that  they  had  no  strength  to  go  round  the 
lake ;  and  Dr.  Richardson,  therefore,  feeling  that 
the  lives  of  the  party  depended  on  the  thing  being 
done,  nobly  volunteered  to  swim  across  the  stream 
with  a  line,  by  which  the  raft  might  be  haided  over. 

But  the  devoted  man  was  too  weak  to  bear  either 
the  exertion  or  the  cold,  and  after  many  brave  efforts, 
the  party  on  shore,  to  their  horror,  saw  him  sink 
just  as  he  had  nearly  gained  the  other  side.  They 
instantly  hauled  him  back,  and,  though  in  an  all  but 
lifeless  stat*,  he  revived  on  l)eing  wrapped  up  in 
blankets  and  placed  before  a  good  fire ;  but  having 
l)een   exposed   to   too   great    heat,  the   whole   left 


■i! .' 


•^BwwsiiiiWwiawiiis^^ 


mmmmm 


144 


8IH  JDIIN  FlUNKMN. 


Bide  wab  fouiul  to  have  loHt  Bennaticii :  niul  tliiH  did 
not  entirely  rfitiini  until  tho  next  Hummer. 

Thera  wu»  nothing  for  it  now  hut  to  construct  n 
canoe ;  and  they  were  reduced  to  thti  hwt  oxtrenuty 
of  Bturvation  hefoio  this  wuh  arcomplis'ied.  The 
Canadiuuf*  Ixjcame  utterly  dei<pt)nding,  refused  even 
to  exert  themselves  to  collect  tnpe  des  roc/ie«,  and  at 
several  stagns  of  this  fearful  journey  one  and  another 
either  refused  to  proceed,  or  went  out  to  hunt  and 
never  returned  ;  so  that  their  party  became  greatly 
diminished. 

But  of  the  four  English  officers,  and  their  brave, 
kind  M'l  cnt,  it  is  impossible  to  speak  too  highly,  die 
and  all  seemed  simply  determined  to  do  their  duty  and 
leave  the  result  to  God.  Their  lives  they  knew  were 
in  His  hands ;  and  in  their  deepest  distress  the)  were 
persuaded  that  He  would  never  forsake  them.  Nor 
would  it  be  possible  to  say  who  was  the  most  ready 
to  run  any  risks,  or  bear  any  amount  of  suffering, 
for  the  sake  of  the  rent. 

At  length  the  strength  of  young  Mr.  Hood  and 
two  or  three  of  the  voyageurs  entirely  gave  way; 
and  afl  it  was  impossible  for  them  to  proceed,  the 
generous  Dr.  Richardson  volunteered  to  remain  with 
them  while  the  others  pushed  on  towards  the  fort, 

Franklin  and  four  others  at  length  reached  the 
spot  on  the  1 1th  of  October,  three  of  the  Canadians 
and  one  Italian  having  broken  down,  and  requested 
leave  to  return  to  Dr.  Richardson.  These  three  were 
Michel,  Belanger,  Perrault,  and  Fontano,  though 
Michel  alone  reached  the  camp. 


if 


N. 

/icn :  and  this  did 
Huinmer. 

but  to  const  met  n 
tlui  hiHt  oxtremity 
complis'ied.  The 
iVmg,  rfifuBed  even 
"/  des  ruchett,  and  at 
By  one  and  another 
i(  out  to  }iunt  and 
rty  became  greatly 

rs,  and  their  brave, 
ak  too  highly,  die 
to  do  their  duty  and 
ves  they  knew  were 
t  distress  they  were 
Drsake  them.  Nor 
was  the  most  ready 
nount  of  suffering, 

lung  Mr.  Hood  and 
entirely  gave  way; 
em  to  proceed,  the 
Bred  to  remain  with 
towards  the  fort, 
length  reached  the 
ee  of  the  Canadians 
iown,  and  requested 
1.  These  three  were 
i  Fontano,  though 


TKIllllHLK  SUKKKUINdS. 


I4A 


At  the  foVt  they  had  fimdly  hoped  to  find  the 
supplies  which  Akaitcho  liad  promised  by  Heptember: 
l<ut  what  tluMr  feelings  wtc  we  must  leave  our 
readers  tc  imagine,  when  they  found  the  place  whcIJy 
deserted  and  no  sign  of  any  kind  of  food. 

At  length  a  note  from  Back  was  found,  stating 
that  ho  had  gone  in  search  of  tiic  Indians ;  and  a8 
tliis  was  very  unsatisfactory,  Franklin  instantly  de- 
cided to  go  himself  in  a  few  days  with  Benoit,  and 
Augustus,  who  seems  to  have  followed  them  to  the 
fort,  straiglit  «m  even  to  Fort  Providence. 

He  made  tlic  nttemrt,  but  so  utterly  broke  down 
that  he  was  obliged  to  let  his  two  companions  go  on 
alone  and  return  to  the  others.  Eighteen  miserable 
days  passed,  during  which  they  had  to  subsist  on 
tripe  ile.8  rochea,  and  »;iy  old  bones  and  skins  which 
they  could  find ;  and  then  one  evening,  when  they 
were  seated  round  the  fire  conversing  on  the  proba- 
bility of  the  speedy  termination  of  their  lives  by 
death,  one  of  the  Canadians  suddenly  and  joyfidly 
exclaimed,  '•Ah,  le  monde!'  but  instead  of  the  In- 
dians, who  ho  thought  were  approaching.  Dr.  Rich- 
ardson and  Hepburn  alone  entered,  looking  fearfully 
emaciated.  Their  fears  for  the  others  were  instantly 
confirmed,  by  his  communication  that  Hood  and 
Michel  were  dead,  and  that  nothing  had  been  heard 
of  the  other  Canadians ;  but  the  gloom  which  im- 
mediately overspread  the  party  prevented  him  from 
at  once  entering  into  the  shocking  details. 

A  partridge  which  Hepburn  had  shot  was  lield 
to  the  fire,  divided  into  six  portions,  and  ravenously 

L 


d^l. 


P 


wssssssisi^': 


I4(i 


Hilt  .lOHN  KHAN K I.I N. 


devoured,  l)<*ii)K  tlip  KthI  aniiiiul  t'iit)d  vtiicli  tlioy  liud 
tRHt«'d  for  (liiriy-ono  d»iyH. 

The  cirouinHtani'i'H  attending  poor  Ho«m1'h  dwUli 
w(!i»'  tlifii  privately  coimniuucatfHl  to  Kraiikliii. 

Ilepliiirii,  it  Heeinn,  liad  found  cnuMe  to  HUHpecl 
the  IrcMpioiH, Michel ;  uiid  on  IiIh  return  t«i  the  Doctor 
and  Hood  tliiH  man  hooii  lieoaine  Kulky,  and  refuHed 
to  do  !UiythinK>  One  «lay  '  iviiig  lieen  out  hunting, 
he  returned,  pretending  to  i.iive  luwl  no  huccchh,  ex- 
cept that  he  had  found  a  dead  wolf,  of  which  he  hod 
brought  them  a  |»iul.  They  helievetl  this  at  first ; 
hut  many  things  afterwanlH  led  them  to  fear  tliut  it 
waH  really  a  part  of  the  body  of  one  of  hin  unfor- 
tunate compuniouH  whom  he  had  probably  nacri- 
ficed. 

They  hod  before  suHpected  that  he  ha<l  Home 
private  store  of  food;  und  now,  with  this  idea  on 
their  minds,  and  so  weak  as  to  Ikj  almost  unfit  for 
any  exertion,  and  certainly  unable  to  resist  any 
attack,  their  situation  was  by  no  meauB  an  enviable 
one. 

It  was  on  the  20th  that  Dr.  Richardson,  having 
gone  out  to  collect  tripe  ilea  roches,  leaving  Mr. 
Hood  sitting  by  the  fire  arguing  with  Michel,  whose 
surly  behaviour  seemed  almost  to  show  a  diabolical 
state  of  mind,  heard  the  report  of  a  gim,  and  soon 
after  the  voice  of  Hepburn,  calling  him  in  great 
alarm. 

On  his  arrival  poor  Hood  was  found  lying  life- 
loss,  a  bullet  having  passed  through  his  head ;  and 
the  first  thought  was  that,  in  a  fit  of  despondency,  he 


n 


I.IN. 

fiM)d  v'fiich  (licy  Iiml 

ip  poor  HtMMl'n  (loath 

ml  lo  Kriuiklin. 

lul  Ciiiim'   to  HiiHpect 

rtttiini  to  the  Doctor 
U!  Hiilky,  and  rcfiiHed 
ifj[  i)e«>n  out  liiinting, 
\  luwl  no  HiicwHH,  ex- 
rnU,  of  which  lu>  hud 
■lievcil  thin  at  tirHt ; 

th(>m  to  fear  thut  it 
>f  one  of  hiH  unfor- 
had   probably   Hacri- 

[  that  ))e  had  uome 
r,  with  this  idea  on 
I  \h3  almoHt  unfit  for 
nable  to  resiHt  any 
o  means  an  enviable 

.  RichardBon,  havinj^- 
roches,  leaving  Mi. 
f  with  Michel,  whoHe 
to  Hhow  a  diabolical 
■j  of  a  gun,  and  soon 
illing  him   in  great 

va«  found  lying  lifo- 
ough  hiti  head ;  and 
it  of  dcHpondeucy,  he 


MK'IIKI,  THK  ,VMHAS.SIN. 


147 


had  dt'Htrovi  *l  hiinnelf.  Ihit,  on  ixiiniiniition,  it  waH 
(|iiite  clear  that  the  hidl  ha<l  entered  from  behind, 
and  could  not  have  l>«>«>n  dlHcharged  by  hiniM'lf. 

Hepburn  Inid  neen  Midul  rining  from  jiint  be- 
hind the  piHir  young  man  immediately  aHer  tie 
report ;  and,  in  fact,  hin  whole  deniennonr  pointed 
him  out  OH  the  aHwiHMin.  Kor  the  three  next  diiyM  he 
kept  alwavH  on  his  j^uiinl,  uwd  tliri'utening  lan- 
guage, and  never  h'ft  IiIh  coinpanionH  together.  \\v 
wiifl  ulwayH  arme<l,  and  utill  powerfid  ;  and  they  f;'lt 
that  they  woidd  be  hitt  next  vietiniH.  The  lirnt  time, 
therefore,  that  the  wretchjnl  man  went  out,  and 
Hepburn  wan  able  to  give  the  Dm-tor  a  full  account 
of  the  affair,  tlKiy  came  to  the  eoncluHioii  that  there 
WOM  *  no  safety  for  them  but  in  Ium  death;'  and 
Hepburn  propoxed  to  Ite  the  instrument  of  it. 
'  But,'  says  KichardHon,  '  I  determined  to  take  the 
who'e  rcHponHibility  on  mym^lf,  and  immediately  on 
Michel'H  coming  up  I  put  an  end  to  IiIh  lif(>  by 
Hhooting  him  through  the  head  with  a  piHtol.  Had 
my  own  life  alone  been  threatened,  I  would  nut  hav«' 
purcliaHed  it  by  hucIi  an  act ;  but  I  conwidered  my- 
self as  entrusted  alno  with  the  protection  of  Hep- 
burn, a  man  who,  by  his  humane  attention  and 
devotedness,  had  so  endeared  himself  to  me,  that  1 
felt  more  anxiety  for  his  life  than  my  own.' 

After  the  arrival  of  these  two  survivors  out  of  a 
party  of  seven  or  eight,  two  of  the  most  faithfid 
Canadians  expired  of  utter  exhaustiim;  and  Frank- 
lin, Richardson,  Hepburn,  and  one  Canadian,  re- 
mained alone  for  another  whole  week,  hoping  almost 


li:; 

iVi 


148 


SIR  JOHN  FRANKLIN. 


i 


Hi 


lii! 
fit  :i) 


liHii 


against  hope  for  the  supplies  of  which  Back  had 
gone  in  search. 

They  were  now  so  thin  that  to  lie  on  the  floor  — 
for  they  had  no  beds  —  produced  soreness  of  the 
body ;  and  so  weak,  that  it  was  quite  a  toil  to  turn 
over.     They  seldom,  however,  spoke  of  their  suffer- 
ings or  of  the  prospect  of  relief:  for  their  minds 
were  too  much  weakened  to  dwell  on  such  things. 
Sometimes  they  would  read  to  each  other,  as  they 
lay  in  bed,  portions  of  some  religious  books,  with 
which  a  lady  had  provided  them  before  leaving  Lon- 
don, one  of  which,  Bickersteth's  '  Scripture  Help,' 
poor  Hood  had  had  lying  open  before  him  at  the 
moment  of  his  death ;  and  the  morning  and  evening 
services  were  never  omitted.     Sometimes,  also,  they 
would  converse  on  religious  subjects;  but   in  the 
daytime  they  commonly  spoke    oiily  of  ordinary 
matters,  as  though  nothing  were  amiss.  In  fact,  each 
one  thought  the  intellect  of  the  other  weakened,  and 
that  they  had  need  of  forbearance  and  advice,  al- 
though it  was  only  in  a  measure  that  they  perceived 
this  in  themselvos.     They  were  fretful  and  pettish, 
too,  in  spite  of  themselves;  and  so  conscious  was 
Hepburn  of  this,  that  he  once  exclaimed, — 'Dear 
me,  if  we  are  spared  to  return  to  England,  I  wonder 
if  we  shall  recover  our  understandings ! ' 

At  length,  on  the  7th  of  November,  the  long- 
expected  relief  arrived  from  Back,  forwavded  by 
three  Indians,  whose  after-care  for  them,  in  cooking 
for  them,  and  tending  them,  would,  says  Franklin, 
'  have  done  honour  to  the  most  civilized  people.' 


!!! 

ill 


■iltt 


NKLIN. 

BS  of  which  Back  had 

lat.  to  lie  on  the  floor  — 
iduced  soreness  of  the 
iras  quite  a  toil  to  turti 
r,  spoke  of  their  siiffer- 
relief:  for  their  minds 
dwell  on  such  things, 
to  each  other,  as  they 
B  religious  books,  with 
lem  before  leaving  Lon- 
Bth's  'Scripture  Help,' 
ipen  before  him  at  the 
le  morning  and  evening 
Sometimes,  also,  they 
1  subjects ;  but   in  the 
)oke    only  of  ordinary 
ere  amiss.  In  fact,  each 
;he  other  weakened,  and 
jarance  and  advice,  al- 
3ure  that  they  perceived 
rere  fretful  and  pettish, 
;  and  so  conscious  was 
ince  exclaimed, — 'Dear 
^n  to  England,  I  wonder 
rstandings ! ' 
)f  November,  the  long- 
m  Back,  forwavded  by 
are  for  them,  in  cooking 
m,  would,  says  Franklin, 
nost  civilized  people.' 


SAVED  BY  BACK  S  SUPPLIES. 


149 


With  the  greatest  caution  against  repletion,  they 
now  gradually  recovered ;  and  on  receiving  a  note 
from  Back  on  the  12th,  that  he  was  about  to  proceed 
to  Fort  Providence,  they  hastened  to  follow  him; 
but  Dr.  Richardson  was  so  reduced  that  they  were 
only  able  to  proceed  slowly.  At  Moose-deer  Lake 
the  two  companies  n>et  again,  and  obtaining  now 
the  requisite  means  of  travelling,  they  passed  from 
station  to  station,  and  at  length  reached  York  Fac- 
tory in  safety,  having  travelled  in  all  5559  miles ; 
and  endured,  with  almost  unparalleled  bravery,  an 
amount  of  hardship  and  suffering  wliich  very  few 
have  had  to  encounter. 

On  their  arrival  in  England  they  found  that 
during  their  absence  Fianklin  had  been  raised  to 
the  rank  of  Captain;  Back  and  Hood  to  that  of 
Lieutenant ;  and  that  Hepburn  had  been  appointed 
to  a  comfortable  position  in  one  of  the  dockyards. 


'I.I 


150 


CHAPTER  VIII. 


SIR  EDWARD  PARRY  .S  SECOND  VOYAGE. 


|;f  ■ 


When  Commander  Parry  returned  home  from  Mel- 
ville Island  in  1820,  he  was  certainly  not  aware  that 
he  had  discovered  the  most  important  part  of  the 
North-west  Passage ;  and  that,  had  he  been  able  to 
persevere  in  his  course,  he  would  have  enjoyed  all 
the  honour,  in  which  Captain  M'Clure  afterwards  so 
justly  claimed  a  share.  He  was,  however,  still  fully 
persuaded  that  such  a  passage  did  exist ;  but  thought 
that  it  must  be  sought  by  way  of  Hudson's,  instead 
of  Baffin's  Bay ;  and  the  parts  which  he  indicated 
were  the  channel  on  the  west  of  Southampton  Island, 
called  Sir  Thomas  Rowe's  Welcome,  on  the  bay 
just  west  of  that  known  as  Repulse  Bay,  where,  a  few 
3'ear8  before  Hearne's  land  journey,  Middleton's  at- 
tempt had  been  defeated.  And  as  his  opinion  had 
now  great  weight  at  the  Admiralty,  he  was  almost 
immediately  appointed  to  explore  those  seas,  beiiig 
made  commander  of  the  'Fury'  bomb;  while  Lieu- 
tenant Lyon,  who  had  recently  distinguished  Inmself 
in  Africa,  was  appointed  to  his  old  favourite,  the 
'  Hecla,'  and  promoted  to  the  rank  of  commander. 


JOHN  GORDON. 


151 


)ND  VOYAGE. 

d  home  from  Mel- 
linly  not,  aware  that 
)ortant  part  of  the 
ad  he  been  able  to 
d  have  enjoyed  all 
Clure  afterwards  so 
however,  still  fully 
exist ;  but  thought 
if  Hudson's,  instead 
nrhich  he  indicated 
outhampton  Island, 
come,  on  the  bay 
ie  Bay,  where,  a  few 
ey,  Middleton's  at- 
as  his  opinion  had 
dty,  he  was  almost 
e  those  eeas,  being 
bomb ;  while  Lieu- 
stinguished  Iiimself 
old  favourite,  the 
ank  of  commander. 


His  former  able  companion,  Captain  Sabine,  did  not 
rtccorapany  him ;  but  was  soon  after  despatched  with 
Commander  Clavering  on  a  voyage  to  Spitsbergen, 
in  the  slow-sailing  'Griper;'  on  board  of  which  he 
made  a  '  series  of  experiments  to  determine  the  figure 
of  the  earth,  by  means  of  the  pendulum  vibrating 
seconds  in  different  latitudes:'  to  which  observations 
he  had  eagerly  devoted  himself  on  his  return  from 
North  Georgia.  And  though  Parry,  no  doubt,  re- 
gretted the  loss  of  so  scientific  an  assistant,  he  must 
have  gladly  changed  the  vessel  which  carried  him 
for  the  'gallant  bomb'  'Fury.' 

The  '  Griper'  was  also  again  employed,  in  1824, 
on  much  the  same  service  as  that  on  which  Parry  was 
now  to  be  engaged,  ^t  was  then  commanded  by  Cap- 
tain Lyon ;  but  we  shall  not  find  space  for  an  account 
of  either  of  these  two  voyages. 

The  '  Fury'  and  '  Hecla'  were  found,  to  Parry's 
great  satisfaction,  to  be  of  very  equal  powers :  and 
many  of  his  old  officers  and  men  again  gladly  accom- 
panied him. 

The  voyage  across  the  Atlantic  was  an  ordinary 
one,  with  the  exception  of  one  melancholy  incident, 
which  happened  as  the  ships  were  sailing  down  the 
Thames. 

In  manning  the  '  Fury,'  Parry  had  gladly  wel- 
comed back  John  Gordon,  one  of  his  old  seamen ;  a 
fine,  tall,  powerful  man,  and  one  always  Called  for 
in  any  case  requiring  unusual  strength  and  activity, 
fhis  man  had,  during  the  long  winter  spent  at  Mel- 
ville Isle,  received  such  benefit  from  the  instruction 


'XI- 


152 


SIR  EDWABIJ  PARRY. 


5     1 


given  on  board,  that  from  a  reckless,  Hwearing  fellow, 
he  had  become  an  entirely  altered  man,  and  great 
benefit  was  now  anticipated  from  his  example. 

•  It  was  just  off  Gravesend,'  says  Parry,  '  that 
Gordon  was  sent  in  a  boat  one  morning  to  lay  a 
kedge-anchor.     In  throwing  the  anchor  out  of  the 
boat,  one  of  the  flukes  caught  the  gunwale,  bringing 
it  to  the  water's  edge.     The  tide  runnintr  strong, 
Gordon  saw  that  the  boat  mnst  be  swamped,  and  the 
crew  greatly  endangered,  if  the  aiHjhor  were  not  in- 
stantly released.    He  flew  from  the  st^rn-sheets  past 
the  other  men,  and,  by  the  utmost  effort  of  his  own 
muscular  power,  lifted  the  anchor  ckar ;  just  in  time 
to  save  the  boat.     But,  in  so  doing,  he  neglected  his 
own  personal  safety.     As  the  anchor  ran  round,  the 
bight  of  the  hawser  got  round  his  body,  and  dragged 
him  out  of  the  boat :  and  we  have  never  seen  John 
Gordon  from  that  moment  to  this.      I  cannot  de- 
scribe the  sensation  this  melancholy  catastrophe  oc- 
casioned in  the  ship  ;  for  Gordon  was  respected  and 
beloved  by  all.' 

No  wonder  that  the  ardent  commander  should 
Boon  after  write  to  his  parents:—*  I  can  safely  say 
I  never  felt  m  strongly  the  vanity,  uncertainty,  and 
comparative  unimportance  of  everything  this  world 
can  give,  and  the  paramount  necessity  of  preparation 
for  another  and  better  life  than  this.' 

But  we  must  hasten  on. 

Near  the  mouth  of  Hudson's  Straits  th<  icebergs 
began  to  beset  their  course:  and  here  the  'Kautilua' 
transport,  which  had  accompanied  them  with  prol 


IRY. 

less,  Hwearing  fellow, 
red  man,  and  great 
m  his  example. 

Bays  Parry,  '  that 
i  morning  to  lay  a 
i  anchor  out  of  the 
e  gunwale,  bringing 
de  running  strong, 
e  swamped,  and  the 
tuchor  were  not  in- 
be  stern-sheets  past 
mt  effort  of  his  own 
■  clear ;  just  in  time 
!ig,  he  neglected  his 
jhor  ran  round,  the 

body,  and  dragged 
re  never  seen  John 
lis.  I  cannot  de- 
loly  catastrophe  oc- 

was  respected  and 

commander  should 
— *  I  can  safely  say 
y,  uncertainty,  and 
jrything  this  world 
Bsity  of  preparation 
lis.' 

straits  th<  icebergs 
lere  the  'Kautilus' 
id  them  with  pro- 


KXAMINATION  OF  THE  COAST. 


153 


It 


visions,  took  her  leave,  and  returned  home  with  tln^ 
last  despatches. 

The  passage-through  the  strait  was  slow  and  dif- 
ficult; but  aa  8(1' )n  as  they  neared  the  land  they  met 
with  some  of  a  tribe  of  Esquimaux,  who  for  about  a 
century  had  held  yearly  intercourse  with  the  English 
ships,  and  so  learnt  European  vices,  without  gaining 
any  knowledge,  either  of  our  civilization  or  of  Ch'-'s- 
tianity.  The  habits  of  these  people  were  so  extremely 
filthy  and  disgusting  tliat  the  men  gave  them  no  en- 
couragement. 

On  approaching  Southampton  Island,  it  was  an 
anxious  point  to  settle  whether  to  make  their  way  to 
Kepulse  Bay  by  the  north  or  south  of  it.  To  go 
round  the  south  was  a  -long  business ;  and  yet  be- 
tween the  island  and  the  bay,  on  the  north,  there  lay 
a  passage  which  Mtddleton  had  called  Frozen  Strait ; 
and  supposing  that  this  y,ere  found  as  he  described 
it,  much  time  might  be  lost  in  making  a  fruitless 
attempt'. 

This,  however,  was  the  course  at  last  decided 
on ;  and  though  much  hindered  by  the  floating 
masses  of  ice,  by  rocks  and  islands,  the  strait  was  at 
length  passed,  and  the  bay  'unconsciously  entered,' 
and  as  no  ice  was  found  there  they  were  able  tho- 
roughly to  investigate  the  shores,  and  so  to  arrive  at 
the  decided  conclusion  that  no  passage  existed  there. 

To  proceed  with  the  examination  of  the  north 
coast  of  the  continent  according  to  his  instructions 
was,  therefore,  Parry's  next  care ;  and  most  diligently 
was  evety  little  inlet  surveyed.      Beyond  Kepulse 


'"Jl^ 


^.  rfiiiiiigiiiifii^^ 


164 


am  EDWAUD  PARRY. 


Bay  another  was  found,  which  was  named  after 
Commander  Lyon, 

But  multitudes  of  amall  islands  obstructed  their 
course;  and  the  exn-rilnation  of  this  piece  of  coast 
was  so  tedious  as  to  occupy  a  month. 

The  season  for  navigation  was  rapidly  drawing 
to  a  olose,  and  the  sea  so  quickly  becoming  covered 
with  young  ice,  that  it  was  evident  that  no  time  must 
be  lost  in  seeking  winter  quarters.  On  the  southern 
coast  of  a  small  island,  at  the  entrance  of  Lyon's 
inlet,  these  were  found ;  and  no  sooner  was  a  canal 
sawed  through  the  ice,  and  the  ships  moved  into 
their  proper  places,  than  they  were  fast  frozen  in. 

It  is  unnecessary  again  to  recount  the  various 
measures  adopted  for  the  health  and  comfort  of  the 
men.  We  need  only  say,  that  ail  that  was  tried  on 
the  last  occasion  was  repeated  on  this,  with  many 
additions  and  improvements. 

A  large  quantity  of  antiscorbutics  had  been 
brought  from  England,  and  were  freely  used;  and 
besides  mustard  and  cress  being  grown  in  con- 
siderable quantities  in  boxes  on  board  ship,  the 
crews  were  not  wholly  destitute  of  vegetables ; 
while  the  ships  were  kept  much  warmer  than 
on  the  former  voyage  by  means  of  Sylvester's 
stoves. 

A  very  large  and  excellent  magic-lantern,  which 
had  been  presented  to  them  by  a  lady,  aflforded 
the  men  much  entertainment;  and  in  addition  to 
their  other  amusements  they  were  often  treated  to  a 
concert,  got  up  by  the  officers,  several   of  whom. 


ijjill 


BY. 

I   was   named   after 

ids  obfltructed  their 
this  piece  of  coast 
ith. 

us  rapidly  drawing 

y  becoming  covered 

t  that  no  time  must 

On  the  southern 

entrance  of  Lyon's 

sooner  was  a  canal 

ships  moved   into 

re  fast  frozen  in. 

recount  the  various 

and  comfort  of  the 

il  that  was  tried  on 

)n  this,  with  many 

!orbutics  had  been 
e  freely  used ;  and 
ng  grown  in  con- 
n  board  ship,  the 
ite  of  vegetables  ; 
luch  warmer  than 
ans    of   Sylvester's 

lagic-luntern,  which 
y  a  lady,  afforded 
and  in  addition  io 
J  often  treated  to  a 
several   of  whom. 


.% 


VISITS  FROM  ESQUIMArX. 


155 


including  I'arry  himself,  •  ere  very  respectable  per- 
formers on  various  musical  instruments. 

But,  besides  these,  regular  employment  was 
provided  for  several  evenings  in  the  week,  V>y  the 
establishment  on  the  lower  decks  of  each  ship  of 
a  school  for  teaching  reading  and  writing;  and  this 
was  so  highly  valued,  and  so  diligently  used  by 
them,  that  when  they  returned  home  'there  was 
not  a  man  on  board  who  could  not  read  his  Bible.' 

Their  position  hero  was,  however,  really  not  so 
isolated  as  it  had  been  at  Winter  Harbour;  for 
during  a  part  of  the  time  they  had  constant  inter- 
course with  some  Esquimaiix,  and  those  of  a  very 
superior  class,  more  simple  and  more  in^^eresting 
than  those  they  had  met  on  their  voyage.  They 
were  perfectly  orderly  and  quiet,  and  at  their  first 
visit  approached  the  ships  only  with  a  few  blades  of 
whalebone,  which  were  intended  jis  a  peace  offering. 

The  women  were  well-dressed  in  clothes  made  of 
the  skin  of  deer ;  and,  to  the  great  surprise  of  the 
officers,  they  immediately  began  to  strip,  although 
the  temperature  was  then  at  2.3°  below  zero.  But 
it  was  soon  discovered  that  they  ha<l  other  garments 
underneath,  and  that  the  upper  ones  had  been 
brought  for  sale. 

A  village  of  five  huts  was  now  perceived  at  a 
little  distance ;  and  it  was  a  matter  of  wonder  how 
this  could  possibly  have  escaped  the  '  look-out '  that 
had  constantly  been  kept ;  until,  at  Parry's  request, 
the  process  of  building  a  hut  was  gone  through 
before  them.     These  were  not  composed   of  skins, 


VI 


156 


SIR  EDWARD  PAHUY. 


like  those  made  in  summer  by  other  tribe«,  but  of 
Bnow  cut  out  in  hoUcI  blocks,  and  built  up,  Htrange 
to  say,  ir  the  form  of  a  dome;  so  that  the  arch  and 
''^m»  ut  the  origin  of  which  there  has  been  so 
.  •'<  ;  iDute,  are  found  even  aradng  these  wifd 
^ih\tJ>!i4U;:    of  the  north. 

\.y  air  '  ade,  and  made  correctly  and  wfU,  in 
the  space  or  .i  .  nv  hoars,  although  they  couHist  of 
several  apartments. 

With  much  curiosity  the  visitors  entered  one  of 
these  huts,  and  found  inside  snow  beaten  into  bed- 
steads covered  with  skins,  and  fireplaces  constructed 
in  the  same  way,  as  well  as  various  other  articles  of 
furniture ;  while  the  whole  was  lighted  by  windows 
of  ice.  A  large  bone  was  fix«d  across  tlie  ceiling,  to 
which  was  suspended  a  stone  lamp :  and  this  the 
captain  desired  to  purchasew  So  the  good  housewife 
took  it  down  and  emptied  out  the  oil,  as  that  was 
net  included  in  the  purchase;  but  as  a  little  was  left 
round  the  sides,  and  she  had  no  mind  to  lose  any, 
she  wiped  it  round  several  times  with  her  apron,  and 
finished  by  giving  it  a  final  lick  with  her  tongue. 

An  almost  daily  intercourse  with  these  poor 
people  proved  a  most  agreeable  interruption  to  the 
dreary  solitude  of  both  parties ;  and  the  many  good 
qualities  of  the  savages  gained  them  great  favour 
with  their  visitors.  They  were  not  only  perfectly 
orderly  and  honest  in  their  dealing  with  the  crews, 
but  also  amiable  and  good-humoured  in  a  remark- 
able degree. 

Everything  seemed  to  please  aud  amuse  then, ; 


lUY. 


<*■< 


other  tribe8,  but  of 

ad  built  up,  strange 

o  that  t\te  arch  and 

there  has  been  so 

among  these  wild 

)rrectly  and  wll,  in 
ugh  they  couHist  of 

itora  entered  one  of 
ow  beaten  into  bed- 
replaces  constnicted 
»us  other  articles  of 
lighted  by  windows 
cross  the  ceiling,  to 
arap:   and  this  the 
the  good  housewife' 
the  oil,  as  that  wan 
it  as  a  little  was  left 
9  mind  to  lose  any, 
with  her  apron,  and 
nth  her  tongue. 
B  with   these    poor 
interruption  to  the 
and  the  many  good 
them  gpreat  favour 
not  only  perfe«jtly 
ing  with  the  crews, 
>ured  in  a  remark- 

aud  amuse  then . ; 


HH 

fiBililiffi'llilililllilfl  'il 

1 

<"I^^^H 

1 

JHHHP^Hnhi  |HHh 

:W. 

lifli 

l^m 

B^ffiHnlHi 

^"""^-^ 

k^Bi  -  iSf*  4,3^! 

inupwii  n»iiiiii|iiHHPBJrniiii8Ww 

r. 

:^'^ 
**^- 


.-^mi 


mmmsm 


i  • 


Mill   i 


mOMCK. 


1.-59 


and  tlie  Buiind  of  the  orjjmi  uiid  MAU-  neiit  them 
ulnuwt  wild  with  delight.  Many  of  tliu  woinon 
posHCHBed  exceUfiit  vuia^H,  uiid  wt-m  fond  of  Hinjj[in^; 
and  OHM  n  pai  ticidnr,  of  whoiM  Parry  had  nujiitHtiHi 
a  song,  di»played  not  only  a  Hoft  voice,  but,  alHo  a 
fine  ear  for  music. 

This  woman,  wluige  name  was  Iligliuk,  was, 
however,  a  remarkabh*  peraou  altogether,  and  would 
have  distinguished  herself  in  any  society,  with  a  very 
small  amount  of  instruction.  She  was  an  excellent 
sompstresB,  and  particularly  neat  and  clean  in  all 
her  work  ;  and  instead  ot  staring  stupidly  at  whatever 
was  new  to  her  in  English  inventions,  like  the  rest 
of  her  companions,  she  always  appeared  anxious  to 
find  out  how  and  why  things  were  done. 

In  fact,  she  Hoon  became  a  general  favourite 
on  board  the  vessels,  where  with  her  husband, 
Okotook,  she  was  a  frecpieut  visitor,  and  where 
she  was  regarde«J  with  even  a  certain  degree  of 
respect. 

It  was  remarked  in  the  dealings  with  this  tribe 
that  they  were  scnipidously  honest,  and  that  they 
would  neither  steal  nor  beg  any  of  the  many  articles 
that  must  have  been  a  great  temptation  to  them. 

On  one  occasion  two  dogs,  which  had  been  pur- 
chased by  some  of  th«  'Hecla's'  officers,  made  their 
escape;  but  the  next  day  when  the  Esquimaux  had 
left  the  ship  the  same  animals  were  found  tied  up 
carefully  on  board.  Iligliuk  was  also  very  careful 
not  only  to  keep  her  word,  but  indignant  if  she 
were  supposed  to  have  failed  in  her  promise.     Parry 


8'ii 


miimmmmmmmmmm 


ino 


Hill  KhWAlin  PAUUV. 


K    1    ' 

11 


relaUw  thitt  hIic  onco  proniiHod  to  cover  for  )iim  n 
little  model  of  a  caxuw,  but  tlmt  throu|{h  Hoiru!  inin- 
take  he  Hiippow?d  tlmt  hIio  hail  not  done  ho,  and 
charged  her  with  the  failure.  He  could  not  un<l<ir- 
Htnnd  hor  vehement  protimtationH ;  ho  she  waiterl  until 
the  Iwarer  of  hor  prenont  ent«»red  the  room,  when  hIic 
laid  her  hand  on  \in  arm,  and  hwkinji;  steadfastly  in 
lUH  face,  charged  him  with  not  having  executcKl  her 
commiHtiion. 

The  mifitake  was  then  ch^ared  up;  and  Parry 
says  *  it  was  iraposMihle  for  him  to  descrihe  tlic  (|uiet 
yet  proud  satisfaetioin  displayed  in  her  count<imnce, 
at  having  thus  cleared  herself  from  a  hniuli  of 
promise.' 

Noticing  the  extraordinary  inlolligenee  of  Ilig- 
liuk,  it  suddenly  struck  I'arry  tliat  from  her  some 
information  respecting  the  direction  of  the  coast 
might  bo  obtained ;  so  he  placed  l)efore  her  several 
sheets  of  paper,  and  describing  to  her  the  direction 
in  which  they  wished  to  sail,  put  a  pencil  into  her 
hand,  and  requested  her  to  trace  the  coast  as  far  as 
she  knew  it.  She  soon  understood  his  meaning  and 
net  to  work  on  a  largo  scale,  naming  the  principal 
places  as  she  went  along,  and  one  sheet  after  another 
had  to  \te  tiicked  on  until  a  dozen  were  filled,  the 
bystiinders  looking  on  with  intense  anxiety,  and 
greatly  relieved  to  see  her  bring  the  coast  short 
round  to  the  west  and  afterwards  to  the  south- 
west. 

This  chart  of  the  north-east  corner  of  America, 
made  by  Iligliuk,  was  afterwards  veritied ;  and  to  her, 


.i*.li. 


tllY. 

to  covor  for  liiin  a 
h  throii|{h  HoiiK*  tnJH- 
i  not  done  ho,  iind 
Ho  oould  not  un<l(>r- 

;  HO  b)h)  wnit«d  until 
1  the  room,  when  hIio 
iM)kJnj{  stciulfuMtly  in 
liavinjj  cxi'cutcHl  her 

re<l  up ;    jind    I'arry 

to  descriho  th(>  (piiet 

in  her  countenance, 

from   u  breach  of 

ip.lel!igeneo  of  Ili);- 
liat  from  her  Home 
ection  of  tht^  coant 
d  l)efore  her  Heveral 
to  her  the  direction 
it  n  pencil  into  her 
0  tlie  coast  an  fiu-  as 
lod  his  meaning  and 
aming  the  principal 
e  slieet  after  another 
)zen  were  filled,  the 
itenso  anxiety,  and 
ng  the  coast  short 
ards  to  the  south- 
corner  of  America, 
verified ;  and  to  her, 


THK  IX)HK  OK  MKDIcrNK, 


161 


therefore,  in  a  great  measure,  iu  due,  as  Harrow  says, 
the  merit  of  the  discov.-ry  of  this  Kne  of  coast. 

Her  son,  Toolooak,  sjems  to  have  inherited  his 
mother's  talentH,  and  would  sit  in  the  eul.in  of 
the  '  Fury'  for  an  hour  or  two  at  a  time,  (piietly 
drawing  animals.  I'arry  invited  him  to  return  to 
England  with  him;  hut  he  repeated,  •iV^ao,'— No 
—  a  dozen  times  over  with  great  empiinsis,  saying 
besiiles,  that  '  if  he  went  away  his  father  would  cry.' 
In  thest)  strong  natural  feelings  he  also  resembled 
his  mother,  who  had  shown  the  greatest  concern  on 
one  occasion  when  her  husband  was  ill,  sitting  by 
him  for  hours  with  her  hair  dishevelled,  and  never 
taking  her  eyes  off  him. 

Okotook  then,  for  the  fiwt  time  in  his  life,  took  a 
dose  of  medicine.  He  drank  it  in  fear  and  trem- 
bling, « holding  on  to  his  wife  by  his  other  hand,  and 
she  on  to  him  with  both  of  hers,  as  if  tin  y  expected 
an  explosion.'  Poor  Iligliuk's  head,  however,  got 
turmni  with  the  attention  that  she  received,  and  Ijy 
April  she  was  a  very  different  person  from  what  she 
had  been  in  February, 

The  lot  of  these  poor  outcasts  of  the  human  race 
is,  at  best,  a  very  hard  one.  They  depend  for  sub- 
sistence, during  the  months  of  March,  April,  and 
May,  on  the  capture  of  the  seal  and  walrus,  and  are 
frequently  in  a  state  of  starvation.  The  hunts  for 
these  animals  are  attended  by  many  dangers,  and  in 
particular  the  bears  are  found  to  be  very  fornddable 
rivals,  as  they  love  seals'  flesh  quite  as  well  as  do  the 
Esquimaux. 


'I 


•I. 


JWIMiiiHM 


MHiiilBI'" 


I#i 


Mi's  ■' 


i|! 


162 


SIR  EDWARD  PARRY. 


A  poor  fellow  was  once  most  unpleasantly  dis- 
turbed while  endeavouring  to  secure  a  seal  which  had 
been  entangled  in  his  net.  He  received  a  violent  slap 
on  the  back,  which  he  supposed  to  have  been  given 
by  his  companion,  until,  on  its  being  repeated,  he 
turned  and  beheld,  to  his  extreme  horror,  a  grim  old 
bear,  which  instantly  took  possession  of  the  prize, 
while  the  man  decamped  as  quickly  as  he  could. 


Esquimaux  Soal-hunter  disturbed  by  a  Bcwr. 

Many  of  the  poor  creatures  would  have  perished 
but  for  the  supplies  which  they  received  from  the 
ships ;  yet,  even  in  this  state,  they  were  marveUously 
good-humoured. 

Curious,  indeed,  are  their  tastes  regarding  food. 
We  are  told  that,  on  one  occasion,  when  the  com- 
mander wished  for  a  portrait  of  the  prettiest  woman 


PARRY. 

most  unpleasantly  dis- 
secure  a  seal  which  had 
e  received  a  violent  slap 
ised  to  have  been  given 
its  being  repeated,  he 
reTiie  horror,  a  grim  old 
possession  of  the  prize, 
I  quickly  as  he  could. 


(listurbed  by  a  Bear. 


ires  would  have  perished 

they  received  from  the 

e,  they  were  marvellously 


jir  tastes  regarding  food, 
occasion,  when  the  com- 
it  of  the  prettiest  woman 


TASTES  OF  THE  ESQUIMAUX. 


163 


in  the  tribe,  he  could  lind  no  present  so  acceptable 
for  herself  and  her  husband  as  a  packet  of  candles, 
which  they  ate  with  avidity;  though  he  had  the  po- 
liteness to  draw  the  wicks  out  of  the  lady's  mouth 
whilst  she  swallowed  the  tallow. 

An  intelligent  young  man,  named  Ayoakitt,  had 
been  invited  by  Lyon  to  dine  with  him,  shown  how 
to  use  his  knife  and  fork,  and  taught  to  wipe  his 
mouth  before  drinking.  Afterwards  he  was  con- 
ducted to  wH^h  his  face  and  hands ;  and  so  anxious 
did  he  appear  afterwards  to  possess  the  cake  of 
Windsor  soap,  that  Lyon  presented  it  to  him :  when, 
to  his  utter  amazement,  Ayonkitt  swallowed  it,  as  if 
it  had  been  a  sugar-plum. 

They  are  generally  very  improvident ;  but  a  few 
of  the  most  careful  make  a  little  pemmican. 

Early  in  April  they  began  to  migrate  westward, 
and  by  the  end  of  May  the  whole  tribe  were  ready  to 
depart.  They  then  received  from  the  commander 
such  presents  as  produced  in  them  the  liveliest  gra- 
titude, which  the  women  evinced  by  *  immoderate, 
and  even  hysterical,  fits  of  laughter ;'  and  then  they 
took  their  leave  by  giving  three  hearty  cheers. 

After  a  residence  of  nine  months  in  what  they 
had  named  Winter  Island,  sickness  began  to  visit 
the  crews  of  the  'Fury'  and  'Hecla,'  and  three 
deaths  occurred  among  the  men.  It  was  not  until 
July  that  the  vessels  were  able  to  put  to  sea :  and 
both  had  very  narrow  escapes  soon  after  starting 
from  the  pressure  of  heavy  floods  of  ice,  borne  down 
upon  them  from  the  north. 


i'l* 


i; 


164 


SIR  EDWARD  PARRY. 


Oa  the  12th  of  July,  however,  they  came  to  the 
mouth  of  a  beautiful  freshwater  river,  named  by 
them  Barrow  River ;  and  here  they  anchored  for  a 
while,  that  parties  might  be  sent  off  in  boats  to  enjoy 
the  luxury  of  a  visit  to  its  banks.  These,  which 
were  sloping  by  the  water's  side,  rose  afterwards  to  a 
considerable  height.  A  splendid  mountain  cataract 
added  greatly  to  the  scenery,  which  was  most  sub- 
lime, and  the  vegetation  rich  and  luxuriant ;  while, 
to  heighten  all,  the  sun  was  shining  biightlj  in  a 
cloudless  sky,  and  several  rein-deer  w^re  grazing 
peacefully  beside  the  stream. 

A  pleasant  run  of  fifty  miles  succeeded  t<j  this 
visit  ashore,  and  the  number  of  walruses  which  they 
observed  pointed  to  this  as  the  ordinary  dwelling- 
place  of'  their  old  friends,  while  information  was 
brought  to  them  by  fresh  Esquimaux  visitors  that 
they  had  now  reached  the  strait  which  was  to  bring 
them  to  the  Polar  Sea,  according  to  Iligliuk's  chart. 

But  an  impenetrable  barrier  of  ice  opposed  their 
progress ;  and,  after  waiting  a  whole  month.  Parry's 
impatience  to  satisfy  his  mind  on  this  point  could 
not  be  restrained,  and  he  therefore  determined  on  a 
journey  across  the  ice. 

By  August  17th  he  reached  the  extreme  point  of 
a  peninsula,  from  which  he  was  able  to  overlook  the 
narrowest  part  of  the  strait ;  and  having  sent  one  of 
the  party  on  for  some  of  the  water,  which  they  found 
to  be  salt,  he  felt  no  doubt  that  he  had  discovered 
the  Polar  Sea,  and  named  the  strait  after  the  '  Fury' 
and  '  Hecla.' 


■  -i1lit<ll«i.>ii|i#»tMtff»i|>|ii^ji-<r,lfgifif|ijay-|i|^ 


■w 


1(1 


IRY. 

sr,  they  came  to  the 
er  river,  named  by 
they  anchored  for  a 
off  in  boats  to  enjoy 
nks.  These,  which 
rose  afterwards  to  a 
d  mountain  cataract 
rhich  was  most  sub- 
id  luxuriant;  while, 
lining  biightlj  in  a 
i-deer  wpre  grazing 

3S  succeeded  to  this 
walruses  which  they 
i  ordinary  dwelling- 
ile  information  was 
limaux  visitors  that 
which  was  to  bring 
2;  to  Iligliuk's  chart, 
of  ice  opposed  their 
rhole  month,  Parry's 
on  this  point  could 
ore  determined  on  a 

the  extreme  point  of 
able  to  overlook  the 
d  having  sent  one  of 
er,  which  tliey  found 
lat  he  had  discovered 
xait  after  the  '  Fury' 


WINTER  QUARTERS. 


165 


% 


A  week  after,  however,  the  bhips  were,  by  the 
aid  of  a  light  breeze,  carried  a  conBiderable  distance 
through  this  channel :  and  being  there  stopped  again 
by  a  barrier  of  what  seemed  fixed  ice,  three  exploring 
parties  were  sent  out  to  complete  tlie  investigation 
as  to  the  termination  of  the  strait,  and  to  return  to 
the  ship  in  four  days. 

The  matter  was  in  this  way  pretty  fairly  settled ; 
but  it  also  became  clear  that  not  only  the  quantity 
of  ice,  but  also  the  strong,  perpetual  current  setting 
down  it,  would  for  ever  prevent  the  strait  from  being 
used  by  ships.  And  as  it  was  now  the  24th  Sep- 
tember, Parry  saw  that  winter  quarters  must  for  a 
second  time  be  sought.  * 

Tlie  ships  were  soon  safely  docked  on  the  coast 
of  Tgloolik,  the  country  of  Iligliuk  find  her  tribe. 
Their  success  had  not  hitherto  been  equal  to  their 
anticipations;  and  it  appeared  to  the  commander 
that,  in  order  to  complete  the  discovery,  he  must  in 
some  way  make  the  provisions  last  for  a  year  longer 
than  at  first  proposed.  The  only  expedient  which  he 
could  think  of  was  a  bold  one,  namely,  that  as  soon  as 
the  ice  thawed  again  the  greater  part  of  the  'Hecla's' 
provisions  should  be  transferred  to  the  *  Fury,'  and 
the  former  sent  home  alone  with  despatches,  while 
the  latter  continued  the  investigation.  Of  this 
proposal,  however,  he  only  spoke  to  Commander 
Lyon,  and  for  the  present  said  nothing  to  the 
men. 

The  two  ships  were  separated  this  winter  by 
such  large  masses  of  ice  that  tlie  crews  could  not 


i#ii 


•■^•^s^^smmummmmmmmmmmmimMmms^:- 


W 


166 


SIR  EDWARD  PARRY. 


ill 


meet  for  their  old  evening  ainusements ;  but  it  is 
pleasant  to  know  that  the  schools  were  established, 
as  before,  on  board  each  ship.  Frequent  visits  from 
their  old  friends  again  enlivened  the  dreary  months, 
and  among  them  frequent  mention  is  made  of 
Toolooak,  the  son  of  Iligliuk,  whose  marriage  took 
place  during  their  stay  ;  the  ceremony  consisting  in 
his  coming  and  seating  himself  outside  the  tent 
with  his  young  bride,  after  which  they  departed 
laden  with  presents. 

The  summer  and  winter  dwellings  of  these 
people  were  both  here  visited,  end  the  former  were 
found  to  be  made  of  skins  perfectly  water-tight,  m.d 
supported  by  a  pillar  of  bones.  Quantities  of  the 
flesh  of  various  animals  were  kept  ineide  tlese 
dwellings,  and  the  smell  inside  was  often  intolorabKi  • 
while  on  the  outside  were  found  heaps  '^f  carcayerj, 
aa  well  as  bones  of  seals,  whales,  bear. ,  He,  ming!!«d 
with  human  skeletons:  of  the  latter  of  w]  c*.  ;i.ej 
were  very  generous,  bestowing  several  -kek+Z'/ns  on 
Parry  and  his  ctrapin^ons. 

Parry  confidentiy  dnt*;!  •«:ed  a  succ^nsful  termi- 
nation to  this  expediHvM',,  asid  wrote  in  a  despatch, 
which  the  '  i!  «Ia'  w;  -  'rn  )i  uf  taken  iiome,  that  he 
trusted  his  next  might  go  via  Kamptschatka.  His 
determination  to  remain  out  with  the  '  Fury,'  when 
made  known,  was  well  received,  and  all  the  men  were 
willing  to  do  just  as  he  should  require  of  them.  But 
his  plans  were  at  the  last  moment  entirely  altered  by 
the  appearance  of  the  scurvy,  hitherto  almost  a 
stranger  amongst  them. 


r^ 


m' 


tRY. 

usements;  but  it  is 
lis  were  established, 
["Vequent  visits  from 
the  dreary  months, 
lention  is  made  of 
fhose  marriage  took 
emony  consisting  in 
If  outside  the  tent 
hich  they  departed 

dwellings  of  these 
nd  the  former  were 
itly  water-tight,  av.d 
Quantilies  of  t(<e 
kept  ineide  tiese 
18  often  intolora'*^*!^  • 
i  heaps  '^f  carcaaerj, 
bear.' ,  He,  ming!!«d 
itter  of  w]  !?■'  (lev 
everai    kekt '/iis  on 

a  succ^  isful  terrai" 
Tote  in  a  despatch, 
:aken  iiome,  that  he 
[amptschatka.  His 
th  the  *  Fury,'  when 
nd  all  the  men  were 
squire  of  them.  But 
t  entirely  altered  by 

hitherto   almost  a 


CAPTAIN  LYON's  VOYAGE. 


167 


The  surgeou,  t,  hose  opinion  was  then  taken,  having 
pronounced  against  a  third  winter  in  the  ice,  and  the 
ice  itself,  even  in  August,  remaining  as  fixed  as  ever, 
he  seemed  to  have  no  choice,  but  was  obliged  to  give 
up  his  cherished  scheme:  and  therefore  took  his 
voyage  home  in  company  with  the  '  Hecla ; '  feeling 
once  more  that  he  was  relinquishing  a  fair  prospect 
of  hciuour,  to  which  he  had  seemed  very  close. 

Franklin  was  by  this  time  home  to  welcome  him ; 
and  very  heartily  did  the  two  friends  exchange  con- 
gratulations on  what  the  other  had  achieved. 

Each  was  now  advanced  to  the  rank  of  Captain ; 
as  was  also  Parry's  late  companion.  Commander  Lyon. 
And  every  one  of  the  three,  so  far  from  being  daunted 
by  what  they  had  undergone,  was  quite  ready  to  go 
out  again  and  renew  the  search. 

Captain  Lyon  was,  therefore,  appointed  to  the 
command  of  the  strong,  but  sluggish  *  Griper,'  and 
sent  to  complete  the  survey  of  the  north-east  part  of 
America,  and,  if  possible,  either  by  sea  or  land,  to 
reach  the  pointat  which  Franklin  had  stopped,  namely. 
Cape  Tumagain ;  his  instructionB  being  to  sail  direct 
either  for  Repulse  Bay  or  Wager  River :  and  he  started 
on  this  expedition  in  July  1824 ;  but,  after  bravely 
encountering  the  most  fearful  perils,  he  was  able  to 
get  no  further  than  Sir  Thomas  Roe's  Welcome. 

In  fact,  his  voyage  only  tended  to  confirm  the 
iihpression  of  the  peculiarly  uninteresting  and  dan- 
gerous nature  of  this  coast. 


m 


tSBmejissm 


!  ■'!? 


V9  ' 


Ml  ,     '' 


111 ' 


■:|ii| 


168 


CHAPTER  IX. 

SIR  EDWARD  PARRY's  THIRD  EXPEDITION,  AND  HIS 
POLAR  VOYAGE. 

Captain  Parry  had  a  dangerous  illness  almost  im- 
mediately on  arriving  at  home,  yet  by  the  spring  of 
the  same  year,  1824,  he  was  eager  for  another  voyage ; 
and  his  own  impression  being  that  the  wisest  way  now 
would  be  to  make  a  further  attempt  on  Regent's  In- 
let, the  Admiralty,  v>lio  had  the  fullest  confidence  in 
his  judgment  and  expericr'^e,  again  placed  the  two 
vesselH — «  F'uiy'  and  'Hecia' — at  his  service. 

He  chose  the  latter  as  his  own  ship ;  while  Com- 
mander Hoppner,  who  had  served  with  him  as  Lieu- 
tenant in  the  '  Alexander,'  as  well  as  in  his  last  two 
voyages,  —a*  placed  in  command  of  the  '  Fury.' 

They  °ailed  from  the  Nor^  on  the  19th  of  May, 
lbi4,  and  in  a  month'iS  time  fell  in  with  the  ice  in 
Davis's  Strait,  where  an  instance  of  Parry's  presence 
of  mind  and  coolness  in  danger  occiared. 

It  was  on  a  Sundaj'  morning,  and,  as  usual,  all 
the  ship's  company  were  mustered  for  Divine  Service, 
which  he  was  conducting ;  when  near  the  cowclusion 
of  the  sermon  which  he  wa.-s  reading,  the  quarter- 
master came  hastily  from  the  hatchway,  and  whis- 


rARRY  S  PllESENCE  OF  MIND. 


169 


PEDITION,  AND  HIS 

B. 

;s  illness  almost  im- 
yet  by  the  spring  of 
•  for  another  voyage ; 
,t  the  wisest  way  now 
mpt  on  Regent's  In- 
fullest  confidence  in 
sfain  placed  the  two 
at  his  service, 
'n  ship ;  while  Com- 
d  with  him  as  Lieu- 
?11  as  in  his  last  two 
I  of  the  '  Fury.' 
n  the  19th  of  May, 
1  in  with  the  ice  in 
!  of  Parry's  presence 
)ccia'red. 

?,  and,  as  usual,  all 
d  for  Divine  Service, 
near  the  cottclusion 
ading,  the  quarter- 
latchway,  and  whis- 


pered a  few  hurried  words  in  his  ear.  Parry,  without 
exliibiting  any  signs  of  emotion,  asked  some  ques- 
tions in  a  low  tone,  and  bade  him  return  to  his  post. 
He  then  re-opened  his  book  and  continued  his  sermon, 
as  though  nothing  had  occuiTed;  concluding  with 
the  blessing.  Theu  raising  his  hand  he  said, —  'Now 
my  lads,  all  hands  on  deck — but  mind,  no  bustle.' 

A  mist,  which  had  been  hanging  over  them,  had 
suddenly  cleared,  and  land  was  seen  just  ahead  ;  and 
the  Captain,  who,  from  the  quartermaster's  report,  had 
judged  the  danger  not  immediate,  now  took  his  post^ 
and  issued  the  nealful  orders  for  altering  the  ship's 
course.        . 

*  We  knew  we  could  trust  nim,'  said  one  of  his 
own  seamen. 

It  will  be  unnecessary  to  describe  again  all  the 
difficulties  of  this,  the  first  part  of  the  voyage.  Suf- 
fice it  to  say,  that  not  until  the  27th  of  September 
had  they  fairly  rounded  the  north-east  comer  of 
Prince  Regent's  Inlet. 

Here,  our  readers  will  remember,  they  were 
stopped  by  a  barrier  of  ice  in  1819;  and  here  also 
they  had,  for  the  first  time,  found  their  compasses 
perfectly  useless. 

Had  they,  on  this  second  occasion,  arrived  some 
weeks  earlier,  they  might  probably  have  sailed  south- 
wards, down  the  inlet,  and  wintere*!  on  the  American 
Continent;  but  the  delays  in  that  tedious  passage 
across  Baffin's  Bay  and  through  I^ancaster  Sound  are 
unavoidable ;  and  as  the  season  was  now  past,  they 
had  at  once  to  look  out  for  winter  quarters. 


170 


SIR  EDWARD  PARRV. 


These  they  found  at  'Port  Bowen,  a  convenient 
harbour  on  the  east  coast  of  the  inlet.' 

One  long  period  of  isolation  at  Winter  Harbour, 
Melville  Island,  another  at  Winter  Island,  off  Lyon's 
Inlet,  and  a  third  at  Igloolik,  had  given  them  a 
pretty  good  idea  of  what  to  do  and  what  to  expect. 
But  this  fourth  winter  was  the  most  trying  of  all ; 
for,  being  on  old  ground,  they  had  neither  the  novelty 
of  place  or  of  situation  to  help  them  on. 

Here,  too,  were  no  Esquimaux,  and  no  animals ; 
so  that  all  resources  must  come  from  within  them- 
selves ;  and  every  conceivable  device  had  to  be  re- 
sorted to  in  order  to  amuse  the  men;  Rational 
occupation,  however,  was  even  more  necessary  than 
amusement ;  and  was  felt  by  all  to  be  so. 

The  schools  were,  therefore,  again  re-com- 
menced, and  were  so  thoroughly  appreciated  that 
all  the  ships'  company  took  part  in  them ;  'making  the 
whole,'  says  Parry,  *  such  a  scene  of  quiet  occupation 
as  I  never  before  witnessed  on  board  a  ship.  These 
schools  were  placed  under  the  superintendence  of 
Mr.  Hooper,  purser  of  the  *Hecla,'  in  whose  own 
words  we  have  an  account  of  the  good  effects  of  that 
aeld  on  Sunda^^  evenings. 

He  writes  in  his  journal  as  follows  :  —  'I  have 
boen,  this  evening,  gratified  beyond  measure  by  the 
conduct  of  my  school.  We  assembled  as  usual,  and 
Captain  Parry  read  to  us  an  excellent  sermon.  We 
then  read  over  three  or  four  times  the  second  lesson 
for  the  day ;  and  I  expounded  it  to  the  best  of  my 
ability.     After  this  we  went  to  prayers,  and  having 


RV. 

owen,  a  convenient 
Qlet.' 

it  Winter  Harbour, 
;r  Island,  off  Lyon's 
had  given  them  a 
and  what  to  expect, 
most  trying  of  all ; 
neither  the  novelty 
em  on. 

IX,  and  no  animals ; 
from  within  thera- 
jvice  had  to  be  re- 
he  men;  Rational 
lore  necessary  than 
0  be  80. 

re,  again  re-com- 
y  appreciated  that 
them;  'making the 
of  quiet  occupation 
ard  a  ship.  These 
superintendence  of 
cla,'  in  whose  own 
good  effects  of  that 

Follows  :  —  'I  have 
md  measure  by  the 
abled  as  iisual,  and 
llent  sermon.  We 
IS  the  second  lesson 
to  the  best  of  my 
rayers,  and  having 


SUCCESS  OF  THE  EVENING  SCHOOLS. 


171 


closed,  I  wished  them  good  night  as  uaual,  when  my 
friend  John  Darke  (one  of  tlie  'Hecla's'  seamen) 
said  he  wished  to  say  a  few  words.  He  then  went 
back  to  his  knees,  and  in  a  few  simple  but  affecting 
words  returned  thanks  for  the  blessing  enjoye<l  by 
himself  and  shipmates  in  a  Christian  captain  and  a 
Christian  teacher,  imploring  the  blessing  of  God  in 
behalf  of  both  Captain  Parry  and  myself.  After 
this  he  desired,  for  himself  and  shipmates,  to  thank 
me  for  the  trouble  I  had  taken,  and  the  counte- 
nance of  every  one  spoke  the  same  thing,  and  showed 
that  they  had  deputed  him  to  do  this.' 

Pleasant,  indeed,  it  is  to  think  of  the  work  that 
was  really  going  on  whilst  the  brave  captains  and 
their  crews  seemed  to  be  wasting  their  time  for  so 
many  months  on  that  barren  coast.  And  a  great 
work  it  was  that  Captain  Parry  was  thus  permitted 
to  carry  out,  while  so  often  allowed  to  suffer  disap- 
pointment in  the  work  which  he  had  set  himself — 
great  not  only  in  itself,  but  because  of  the  effect 
which  his  example  produced  on  the  conduct  of  sub- 
sequent expeditions. 

For  the  officers,  however,  there  was  no  need  to 
make  employment.  They  were  fully  occupied  in 
various  scientific  researches,  especially  on  the  sub- 
jects of  magnetism,  refraction,  and  the  aurora 
borealis. 

Of  the  latter  they  witnessed  but  few  very  brilliant 
displays,  but  one  is  worth  relating. 

The  captain,  with  two  of  his  lieutenants,  were 
admiring  its  beauty  from  the   observatory  on  one 


!| 


172 


SIR  EDWAUn  PARHY. 


occasion,  when  siiddenly  all  three  '  uttered  an  ex- 
clamation of  surprise  at  seeing  a  bright  ray  of  the 
aurora  shoot  suddenly  downward  from  the  general 
mass  of  light,  and  heiiveen  them  and  the  land,  which 
was  there  distant  only  three  thousand  yards.' 

Parry  observes,  that  had  he  been  alone  at  this 
time  he  should  have  attributed  the  phenomenon  to 
fancy ;  but  as  three  persons  saw  it,  he  had  no  doubt 
that  a  ray  of  light  did  pass  within  that  distance  of 
them.  Something  of  the  same  kind  was  observed 
by  poor  Hood  during  ?>anklin'8  journey.  The 
variation  of  the  magnetic  needle  was  foimd  to  have 
increased  since  their  first  visit,  and  a  regular  system 
of  hourly  experiments  on  the  magnetic  intensity  was 
instituted. 

Lunar  observations  for  the  longitude,  and  ob- 
servations for  the  latitude  by  the  sun  and  stars,  were 
constantly  going  on ;  and  these  things  fully  occupied 
their  time. 

The  re-appearance  of  the  sun  was  also  an  event 
anxiously  looked  forwar4  to  as  soon  aa  January  had 
passed  away;  but  it  was  not  until  February  22nd 
that  he  was  seen  at  the  ships,  though  a  glimpse  of 
him  had  been  obtained  many  days  earlier  from  the 
top  of  high  ground.  But  even  then,  for  a  long 
time,  he  was  only  seen,  aud  not  felt ;  nor  was  it  until 
the  1 1th  of  April  that  the  thermometer  rose  above 
zero. 

To  occupy  the  time  that  must  yet  intervene  be- 
fore the  ships  were  released,  parties  were  sent  out  in 
several  directions  to  explore  :  and  as  soon  as  the  ice 


mmssmmM 


RRY. 

iree  '  uttered  an  ex- 
f  a  bright  ray  of  th« 
rd  from  the  general 
<ind  the  land,  which 
bousand  yards.' 
le  been  alone  at  this 
the  phenomenon  to 
'  it,  ho  had  no  doubt 
bin  that  distance  of 
3  kind  was  observed 
lin's  journey.  The 
ie  was  foimd  to  have 
find  a  regvdar  system 
agnetic  intensity  was 

longitude,  and  ob- 
e  sun  and  stars,  were 
things  fully  occupied 

n  was  also  an  event 
30on  aa  January  had 
mtil  February  22nd 
though  a  glimpse  of 
lays  earlier  from  the 
3n  then,  for  a  long 
felt ;  nor  was  it  until 
mometer  rose  above 

ist  yet  intervene  be- 
ties  were  sent  out  in 
id  as  soon  as  the  ice 


THE  ♦  fury'  AnANDONKD. 


173 


bt'gan  to  crack,  plenty  of  active  employment  was 
found  for  the  men  in  the  work  of  enlarging  these 
aplits,  until,  by  the  18th  of  July,  they  were  able  to 
begin  counting  along  the  land  on  the  western  side 
of  the  strait  which  Parry  had  called  North  Somerset, 
feeling  as  they  did  so  that  the  voyage  had  but  now 
commenced. 

They  started  in  high  spirits,  but  were  again 
doomed  to  disappomtment ;  for  both  ships  soon  got 
among  large  floes  of  ice  drifting  in  towards  the  shore. 
The  '  Fury '  was  swept  irresistibly  past  the  •  Heola,' 
almost  running  the  latter  down,  and  both  stuck 
fast.  At  iiigh  water  both  ships  were  got  off;  but 
the  poor  '  Fury'  was  so  damaged  that  four  pumps 
were  countantly  at  work  to  keep  her  afloat.  They 
got  her  into  a  dock  that  she  might  undergo  repairs ; 
but  instantly  the  wind  destroyed  this  basin,  and  the 
'  Hecla'  was  obliged  to  tow  her  out  to  sea.  Sails 
were  passed  under  her  keel  to  stop  the  worst  leaks ; 
but  on  the  2  Ist  of  August  she  was  hopelessly  stranded 
on  an  open  and  stony  beach,  with  her  hold  full  of 
water ;  and  both  crews,  officers  and  men  alike,  were  so 
completely  worn  out,  that  '  sonu;  of  them  fell  into  a 
kind  of  stupor,  which  rendered  the  individuals  so 
affected  incapable  of  comprehending  an  order.' 

There  was  clearly  nothing  for  it  but  to  abandon 
the  poor  vessel  and  return  home ;  which,  as  the  sea 
southward  was  then  very  open,  was  extremely  dis- 
appointing. Howe'er,  as  every  corner  of  the  '  Hecla ' 
was  occupied  by  thv^  reception  of  the  other  crew,  and 
the  'Fury's'  store  >  could  not  be  received,  there  was  no 


i: 


i 
Hi 


i; 
il; 


.1 ' 


'ii« 


174 


SIR  EDWARD  PARRY. 


poHsible  ftlternativei  and  thus  ended  Captain  Parry'i 
third  and  hist  attempt  in  Bearcb  of  a  north-west 
pasHage. 

Ho  had  diflcovered  many  northern  lands,  had 
found  out  that  many  things  could  not  be  done,  and 
BO  spared  his  successors  much  fruitless  labour,  and 
left  them  but  to  find  out  the  one  connecting  link ; 
but  he  was  not  suffered  to  achieve  the  whole. 

We  have  seen,  however,  how  to  some  of  those 
under  his  care  the  time  spent  had  been  far  from 
lost;  and  the  same  thing  may  be  not  less  truly  said 
of  himself. 

Parry's  hojne-ties  hud  been  very  strong  ones; 
and  one  of  these  he  had  found  broken  on  his  return 
from  Igloolik,  where  the  news  of  his  father's  death  had 
been  communicattd  to  him.  This  had  made  a  deep 
impression,  and  had  caused  him  to  look  more  deeply 
into  the  grounds  of  his  own  faith.  Alone,  com- 
paratively, at  Port  Bowen,  or  at  least  shut  out  from 
the  outer  world,  and  forced  into  a  long  retirement, 
the  thought  of  that  eternity  on  which  his  father  had 
now  entered,  and  to  which  every  passing  day  was 
bringing  himself  nearer,  pressed  deeply  upon  his 
mind ;  and  the  question,  of  '  How  a  sinful  man  can 
be  just  with  God  ?'  presented  itself  as  one  that  could 
not  be  satisfactorily  answered  by  any  general  stsite- 
ment  about  the  mercy  of  God. 

From  his  youth  up  he  may  be  said  to  have  been 
♦  a  devout  man.'  To  do  God's  will,  and  to  suffer  it 
aJso  patiently,  seems  to  have  been  his  great  aim ; 
but  the  knowledge  of  that  will  had  been  hitherto  but 


-jdmmmm 


r 


''^^ji 


flRY. 

idcd  Captain  Party's 
rcli  of  a  north-west 

aorthem  lands,  had 
Id  not  be  don«>,  and 
fruitless  labour,  and 
>ne  connecting  link ; 
lievo  the  whole. 
m  to  some  of  those 
had  been  far  from 
e  not  less  truly  said 

very  strong  ones ; 
jroken  on  his  return 
lis  father's  death  had 
lis  had  made  a  deep 
to  look  more  deeply 
iiith.  Alone,  corn- 
least  shut  out  from 
)  a  long  retiremnnt, 
vhich  his  father  had 
ry  passing  day  was 
d  deeply  upon  his 
»w  a  sinful  man  can 
elf  as  one  that  could 
r  any  general  state- 

6  said  to  have  been 
?ill,  and  to  suffer  it 
een  his  great  aim ; 
id  been  hitherto  but 


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'*'! 


I  : 


CHANGE  IN  RELIGIOUS  VIEWS. 


175 


very  imperfectly  comprehended  by  him.  He  had 
read  his  Bible,  and  thought  of  Christ's  love  only  in 
that  general  way  that  too  many  do ;  but  now  that 
his  mind  was  thus  exercised,  he,  as  well  as  his  men, 
found  a  good  friend  in  Mr.  Hooper.  A  close  friend- 
ship was  formed  between  them,  and  many  were  the 
conversations  held  between  them  on  these  all-im- 
portant topics. 

Mr.  Hooper  himself,  in  his  private  journal, 
notices  the  change  which  was  taking  place  in  the 
views  of  his  '  esteemed  friend,'  and  the  delightful 
hours  passed  in  his  company,  but  does  not  appear 
aware  how  helpful  his  own  counsels  had  proved. 
A  regular  study  of  the  New  Testament  seems,  how- 
ever, to  have  been  the  means  to  which  Parry  himself 
attributed  this  change,  more  than  to  anything  else. 
'  The  entrance  of  Thy  words  giveth  light,'  he  wrote, 
in  allusion  to  his  own  state  of  mind ;  and  this  light 
showed  him  one  great  mistake  into  which  he  had 
hitherto  fallen,  namely,  that  of  applying  the  promises 
of  God  indiscriminately,  and  without  considering 
that  they  are  given  only  to  those  who  have  put  on 
Christ,  and  entered  on  the  narrow  way  by  the  *  strait 
gate,'  and  that  alone. 

Naturally,  therefore,  his  zeal  for  the  spiritual 
welfare  of  his  men  assumed  henceforth  a  deeper 
character  than  it  had  borne  before;  nor  were  his 
efforts  suffered  to  be  in  vain.  Of  this  one  interest- 
ing proof,  among  many  others,  was  given  in  a  letter 
received  by  Mr.  Hooper  from  one  of  the  seamen,  John 
Darke,  in  which  he  spoke  of  him  and  the  Captain  as 


t 


111 


I  1 


176 


SIR  EDWARD  PARRY. 


♦  the  means  of  saving  his  soul,'  and  begged  to  know 
how  he  might  send  tliem  lOL,  to  be  appropriated  to 
any  good  object  of  which  they  might  approve,  as  a 
thank-offering  for  the  good  he  had  received  on 
board  the  *  Hecla.' 

Although  once  more  unsuccessful  in  this  his 
third  Arctic  voyage.  Parry,  on  his  return  home,  re- 
ceived fresh  honours  in  testimony  of  his  brave  and 
indefatigable  eflforts,  and  in  acknowledgment  of  the 
services  really  rendered  to  his  country  by  the  ex- 
tensive geographical  discoveries  which  he  had  made. 
But  he  went  home  also  to  begin  that  manly  career 
as  a  Christian  philac^hropist  which  has  rendered 
his  name  familiar  to  many  who  might  scarcely  have 
heard  of  it  in  connexion  with  naval  enterprise. 

This  did  not,  perhaps,  gain  him  any  additional 
favour  among  some  of  his  old  patrons;  indeed  he 
himself  tells  us  that  it  brought  on  him  many  a 
sneer.  But  he  would  have  been  the  last  'man  to 
shrink  from  *  nailing  his  colours  to  the  mast ;'  and 
although  some  share  of  ridicule  was  to  be  espected, 
yet  Parry's  professional  character  stood  too  high  to 
allow  of  any  man  of  sense  being  easily  prejudiced 
against  him. 

Nor  was  his  own  professional  enthusiasm  one 
whit  less  than  it  had  ever  been.  He  longed  to  be 
out  again  on  some  other  service,  and  if  unsuccessful 
in  the  north-west,  he  would  try  the  North  Pole 
itself:  not,  indeed,  with  the  same  view,  for  to  find 
a  passage  that  way  does  not  seem  to  have  been  his 
object.     But  the  magnetic  experiments  which  he 


4'*-?i.'i*jJ?'''t*?j"**Vi'* 


=«'p**5«'p*  *^ii^«''a^'^^'^**.sc:^M?*iah^j.fiS3iwi^  ' 


\RRY. 

,'  and  begged  to  know 

to  be  appropriated  to 

might  approve,  as  a 

he   had   received   on 

I 
uccessful    in  this  his 

his  return  home,  re- 
lony  of  his  brave  and 
iknowledgment  of  the 
8  country  by  the  ex- 
s  i^hich  he  had  made. 
!gin  that  manly  career 

which  has  rendered 
10  might  scarcely  have 
laval  enterprise, 
in  him  any  additional 
id  patrons;  indeed  he 
ght  on  him  many  a 
been  the  last  'man  to 
)urs  to  the  mast ;'  and 
le  was  to  be  expected, 
iter  stood  too  high  to 
Bing  easily  prejudiced 

ional  enthusiasm  one 
jen.  He  longed  to  be 
e,  and  if  unsuccessful 
.  try  the  North  Pole 
lame  view,  for  to  find 
sem  to  have  been  his 
xperimonts  which  he 


■'f^imi^^f^i^--. 


SI.EDaE-BOATS. 


177 


had  witnessed,  and  in  which  he  had  himself  assisted, 
interested  him  deeply,  and  he  now  strongly  desired 
to  follow  these  out  at  the  Pole  itself. 

True,  Captain  Phipps  had  failed,  and  so  had 
Huchan  and  Franklin.  But  then,  in  the  accounts  of 
both  voyages,  mention  had  been  made  of  large 
'fields  of  ice,  free  from  either  fissure  or  hummock,' 
which  a  conch  might  have  driven  over  many  leagues 
in  a  direct  line,  without  obstruction  or  danger;  and 
in  sledge-borno  boats  Captain  Parry  now  proposed 
to  proceed  beyond  the  point  where  a  large  vessel 
could  sail. 

A  most  daring  proposition  it  was,  without 
doubt ;  yet  Parry  was  not  the  man  rashly  and  use- 
lessly to  risk  the  lives  of  those  under  his  command  ; 
and  some  time  before  the  plan  had  been  started  by 
his  friend  Franklin,  now  absent  on  another  Arctic 
expedition.  Both  thought  the  experiment  worth 
trying;  and,  in  accordance  with  the  opinions  of  both, 
Parry  was  once  more  appointed  to  his  favourite 
*  Hecla,'  with  instructions  to  proceed  in  her  as  far 
as  Spitzbergen,  there  to  leave  her  in  some  safe 
harbour  in  c)>arge  of  one  of  the  officers,  while  he 
and  his  men  proceedftd,  according  to  his  plan,  in  two 
boats,  the  '  Enterprise*  and  the  '  Endeavour,'  which 
had  been  specially  prepared  for  the  purpose,  and 
each  of  which  was  twenty  feet  long  and  seven  broad, 
flat-bottomed,  and  very  strong. 

Between  his  return  from  Regent's  Inlet  and  his 
setting,  out  on  this  his  last  Polar  voyage,  he  had 
married  the  fourth  daughter  of  Sir  John  Stanley,  u 

N 


I  i  < 


1 1 ' 


I'   ' 
..I 

Hi  J 


178 


SIR  EDWARD  PARRY. 


lady  who  had  long  taken  great  interest  in  the 
subject  of  Arctic  enterprise,  and  she  it  vim  who  went 
through  the  form  of  commissioning  the  ship  by 
hoistiug  the  pendant,  to  the  great  delight  of  the 
seamen.  Parry  was  determined  to  take  none  but 
first-rate,  hands;  but,  notwithstanding  this,  the 
*  Hecla'  was  manned  in  three  days. 

And  this  voyage  may  be  said  to  have  begun  in 
the  ice ;  for  at  Deptford,  where  the  vessel  lay  while 
preparing,  the  river  was  frozen  over,  and  Mrs. 
Parry,  who  was  on  board  with  her  husband  for  a 
month,  had  an  opportunity  of  hearing  something 
of  the  grating  of  the  ice  against  the  ship's  sides,  and 
afterwards,  when  it  became  harder  and  firmer,  of 
seeing  liow  the  boats  cut  their  way  through,  in  order 
to  communicate  with  the  shore. 

'  Mr.  Ross  and  the  officers  seemed  to  delight  in 
it,'  she  observed ;  and  her  own  an^l  her  family's  en- 
thusiasm, happily  for  them,  appears  to  have  been 
almost  equal  to  that  of  the  Captain  himself. 

The  Mr.  Ross  of  whom  she  speaks  was  Lieute- 
nant James  Ross,  nephew  to  Captain  Ross,  who 
commanded  the  second  boat. 

The  'Hecla'  sailed  direct  to  Hammerfest,  in 
Norway,  where  they  stopped  to  take  in  eight  rein- 
deer with  a  supply  of  moss,  their  ordinary  provender, 
and  also  to  learn  how  to  manage  these  beautiful 
creatures,  on  which  they  depended  to  draw  their 
sledge-boats  when  they  got  on  the  ice. 

These  intelligent  and  docile  animals  are  most 
wonderfully  adapted  to  this  kind  of  labour.     They 


HRY. 

■eat  interest  in  the 
she  it  wjiH  who  went 
lioning  the  ship  by 
rreat  delight  of  the 
d  to  take  none  but 
hstanding  this,  the 
days. 

lid  to  have  begun  in 
(  the  vessel  lay  while 
izen  over,  and  Mrs. 
li  her  husband  for  a 
f  hearing  something 
;  the  ship's  sides,  and 
larder  and  firmer,  of 
way  through,  in  order 

Ik 

seemed  to  delight  in 
anil  her  family's  en- 

uppeara  to  have  been 

laptain  himself. 

le  speaks  was  Lieut  e- 

>   Captain  Ross,  who 

!t  to  Hammerfest,  in 
o  take  in  eight  rein- 
jir  ordinary  provender, 
anage  these  beautiful 
pended  to  draw  their 
in  the  ice. 

jile  animals  are  most 
cind  of  labour.     They 


RBIN.DEER. 


179 


'■l 


eat  about  four  pounds  of  moss  a-day,  but  can  go 
even  five  or  six  days  fasting  without  injury  : 
snow  serves  them  for  water  and  ice  for  a  bed.  A 
collar  of  skin  round  the  neck,  one  trace  and  one 
rein,  form  the  whole  of  their  trappings,  and  under  a 
skilful  driver  they  will  thus  make  extraordinary 
journeys,  even  in  soft  snflw.  A  shake  of  the  rein  is 
all  the  urging  that  they  need ;  and  perhaps  no  ani- 
mals are  so  easily  managed.  Our  party  soon  became 
quite  attached  to  them,  so  that  the  possibility  of  being 
obliged  to  feed  on  these  very  rein-deer  was  anything 
but  agreeable. 

After  being  beset  in  the  ice  for  four-and-twenty 
days  the  vessel  was  at  length  brought  to  anchor  in 
Treurenberg  Bay,  on  the  north  of  Spitzbergen,  where 
so  many  Dutch  graves  were  found,  tliat  Parry  rightly 
surmised  the  name  of  the  place  to  be  taken  from 
•  treuren,''  to  lament.  . 

At  lengili  the  two  boats  left  the  ship,  taking  with 
them  only  seventy-one  days'  provisions,  as  the  season 
was  far  advanced,  and  his  strict  instructions  were  to 
return  before  winter — in  time,  indeed,  for  the '  Hecla' 
to  get  away  before  she  became  frozen  in.  But  the 
appearance  of  the  ice  telling  them  plainly  that  it 
would  be  long  before  either  rein-deer,  snow-shoes,  or 
wheek  could  be  of  any  use.  Parry  left  the  poor 
animals  behind,  after  all ;  and  what  became  of  them 
we  do  not  know.  Of  the  snow-shoes,  which  our 
readers  will  remember  to  be  very  large  affairs,  they 
made  little  sledges  to  carry  some  of  their  luggage, 
these  were  found  very  useful. 


in 


'1 


1 


vmmmm 


180 


SIR  KDWABl)  PAIIRY. 


The  rest  of  the  voyage  was  perfectly  tinicine  in 
its  character,  and  Parry's  own  wordH  will  best  describe 
the  plan  of  travelling  :  — 

♦  It  was  my  intention,"  he  Hays,  'to  travel  wholly, 
at  night,  and  to  rest  by  day ;  there  beiiig,  of  course, 
constant  daylight  in  these  regions  during  the  summer 
season.     The  advantages  ct  this,  plan,  which  was  oc- 
caaionally  deranged  by  cirmimstances,  consisted,  first, 
in  our  avoiding  the  intense  and  oppressive  glare  from 
the  snow  during  the  time  of  the  sun's  greatest  alti- 
tude; so  as  to  prevent,  in  some  degree,  the  painful 
inflammation  in  the  eyes,  called  'snow-blindness,' 
which  is  common  in  all  snowy  countries.     We  also 
thus  enjoyed  greater  warmth  during  the  hours  of  rest, 
and  had  abetter  chance  of  changing  our  clothes;  be- 
sides which,  no  small  advantage  was  derived  from  the 
snow  being  harder  at  night  for  travelling.     The  only 
disadvantage  of  this  plan  was,  that  the  fogs  were 
somewhat  more  frequent,  and  more  thick  by  night 
than  by  day.    Even  in  this  respect  there  was  less  dif- 
ference than  might  have  l)een  supposed ;  the  tempe- 
rature during  the  twenty-four  hours  undergoing  but 
little  variation.  .  .  .  WJien  we  rose  in  the  morning, 
we  commenced  our  day  V>y  prayers ;  after  which  we 
took  off  our  fur  sleeping-dresses,  and  put  on  those  for 
travelling  ...  We  made  a  point  of  always  putting 
on  the  same  stockings  and  boots  for  travelling  in, 
whether  they  had  dried  during  the  day  or  not ;  and 
I  believe  it  was  only  in  live  or  six  instances  that  tliey 
were  not  either  still  wet,  or  hard  frozen.     This  wafl, 
indeed,  of  no  consequence ;  as  they  were  sure  to  be 


lY. 


>erfectly  uni(ino  in 
1h  will  befit  describe 


H, 


to  travel  wholly . 
re  beiAg,  of  course, 
during  the  Bummer 
>lan,  which  was  oc- 
ices,  consisted,  first, 
>pre8Hive  glare  from 

sun's  greatest  alti- 
degree,  the  painful 
I  •snow-blindness,' 
lountries.  We  also 
ng  the  hours  of  rest, 
ing  our  clothes;  be- 
vm  derived  from  the 
avelling.     The  only 

that  the  fogs  were 
aoro  thick  by  night 
ct  there  was  less  dif- 
ipposed ;  the  terape- 
ours  undergoing  but 
tise  in  the  morning, 
fera  ;  after  which  we 
and  put  on  those  for 
it  of  always  putting 
»ts  for  travelling  in, 
the  day  or  not ;  and 
X  instances  that  they 
•d  frozen.  This  waft, 
they  were  sure  to  be 


iU 


iiKuiiiiWMiMMiiHWiiiiriniiiiiiiliiiTfiTirB 


mmmm 


im^' 


mmmmmm^^^iaKm 


mmmmmmmm 


mamifaifmmmii'iismmmm^tBsmaaeamBFmKmm 


HLOW  PKOUBK>«, 


ist 


:i 


thoroughly  wet  in  a  quarter  of  an  hour  after  com- 
mencing our  journey;  while,  on  tlie  other  hand,  it 
wa8  of  vital  importance  to  keep  dry  thinga  to  sleep 
in.' 

He  then  goes  on  to  tell  how,  after  breakfasting 
on  biscuit  and  warm  cocoa,  they  mi  off;  and  usually, 
after  travelling  four  or  five  hours,  came  to  a  halt  for 
dinner;  after  which  they  went  on  again  for  some 
hours. 

When  they  hauled  up  the  boats  for  the  night  it 
was  always  on  the  largest  floe  of  ice  in  sight ;  and 
then,  by  putting  these  boa  alongside  each  other, 
with  their  stems  to  the  wind,  and  placing  the  sails 
over  them,  supported  by  the  masts  for  an  awning, 
they  got  a  more  comfortable  sleeping-place  than 
might  have  been  imagined.  Before  lying  down  both 
officers  and  men  smoked  their  pipes ;  and  the  latter 
told  long  yarns :  and  this  was  often  the  only  com- 
fortable part  of  their  waking  hours. 

Their  only  fuel  was  spirits  of  wine ;  and  their 
only  use  for  it  to  boil  their  cocoa. 

But  the  state  of  the  ice  disappointed  them  much. 
Here  was  no  smooth  level,  but  quantities  of  loose 
rugged  masses,  over  which  they  travelled  slowly; 
having  to  go  backwards  and  forwards  to  fetch  their 
provisions  and  luggage ;  so  that  sometimes  their  pro- 
gress was  but  very  slow.  Once  it  was  only  half  a 
mile  in  four  hours;  and,  indeed,  from  the  25th  of 
June,  when  they  started,  to  the  30th,  they  had  only 
reached  to  82*^  40'  23" ;  or  '  eight  miles  of  direct 
northing.' 


I 


i 


-;:| 


y^ 


IH4 


NIK  KilWAKI)  I'AHItY. 


With  nil  (»l»j»)ctH  hut  icn  imd  Hky  for  the  oyo  to  rt>nt 
on,  thry  hu<hriiv«'lh!<l  until  tht-  27»h,  whrn  it  ii|»iM'iir«!(l 
thiit,  InMliMiil  of  mtviuicin;;,  Ihcy  wcto  ntnlly  K'*'">( 
hiickwiini.  ()u  thf23nl  tht^  hiH;h('Mt point  v\m  rouohwl 
W(iH  atdiini'd,  vi/.  H'2°  4.'/ ;  just  172  inih-n  from  fin- 
'n«!(lii;'  and  now  it  H<'»'nnMl  iimdrHH  lo  prorec^il. 
I'mry  hntl  lonj,'  htforc  jfivfii  up  all  hop*'  of  (^fiiininj^ 
th<!  Pole;  iumI  for  Hornc  (hiyn  hud  only  ur)j[»'d  on  thn 
men  to  iittcmpt  to  niuh  hit.  H.'J"  N.  :  at  wluoh  point, 
if  they  could  havi^  ;i;ain(d  it,  they  would  have  h(!en 
entithid  to  the  nwurd  of  1(M)()/.  ThiH  fact,  however, 
ho  had  kt^pt  from  them  ,  hut  had  they  known  it,  they 
<M»uId  not  have  made  mi>re  vehement  effortH.  It 
waH  the  offieerH  ahtiie  who  could  take*  the  obrtorva- 
tions,  who  were  aware  that  no  pcireeptihie  pro;^re«H 
waH  hein^'  made.  On  the  27th  thi-y  dined  with  fla^H 
flying  in  hoth  houtn,  and  drunk  the  kinjr'H  liealth  in 
a  higher  latitiuhf  than  it  had  ever  heim  drunk  before; 
and  after  a  day'w  rest  they  hej^an  thrsir  journey  Houth- 
war<l,  with  leHs  Hati«fuction  than  they  had  ever  turned 
homeward  before. 

They  had  a  little  anuiHement  in  hunting  bearH  on 
their  return ;  and  us  their  proviHions  were  getting 
low,  they  were  n(»w  and  then  glad  U}  feast  on  one. 
Not  until  the  4th  of  August  did  they  hear  the  swell 
of  the  open  sea;  and  on  arriving  at  Table  Island, 
when*  th(!y  had  defmsited  some  provisions,  they 
foimd  that,  as  one  of  the  men  said,  'the  bears  had 
been  wpiare  with  them  ;'  having  eaten  all  the  bread. 
Their  W((lcome  at  the  •Ileela'  was  a  very  warm  one; 
and  on  tlie  2Hth  of  August  she  weighed  anchor  for 


'I)»'ry«'  fo  rnut 
II  it  iippcartxl 
finally  K*''"K 
fV(T  rouclii'd 
ilcH  from  t  Ill- 
lit   proi-ecd. 
)<■  ni'  i^uiiiini^ 
iir^«-il  on  tli)> 
wliich  point, 
(1  litive  hfvu 
'act,  howt'vor, 
nown  it.tliny 
I'ffortH.      It 
Mio  oliHorva- 
ililn  pro;^r«!«H 
t'd  with  flajjfH 
ij^'h  healtii  ill 
luiik  brfoic ; 
•unioy  Hoiitli- 
1  ever  turned 

ting  benrH  on 
were  getting 
feast  on  one. 
ear  the  hwoII 
Pftblo  iHland, 
Msions,  they 
ho  hearw  had 
dl  the  broad. 
y  warm  one ; 
d  anchor  for 


u 

■A 


V'. 

o 
u 


w 

a 


"'•Mtmm 


miiwiii 


^\^ 


*1 


RETURN  HOMK, 


187 


England ;  ana  by  the  end  of  September  Parry  was 
able  to  present  himself  at  the  Admiralty,  v/here  he  had 
the  joy  of  meeting  his  old  friend,  (Captain  Franklin, 
who  had  exactly  at  the  same  time  returued  from  a 
second  Polar  land  expedition ;  of  which  we  have 
now  to  speak.  ^ 


■1 


r^ 


188 


CHAPTKR  X. 

sin  JOHN  FUANKLIN's  .second  KXPKDITIOjf. 

Sir  John  Bauhow  remarks,  that  a  tliorougli-brt  d 
En«jli.sh  seaman  will  soiicelj  ever  Kuccumb  under 
any  amount  (»f  danger  or  suffering,  and  that,  instead 
of  being  disheartened,  he  will  only  grow  more  and 
more  anxious  to  persevere  in  his  career,  in  the 
hope  of  meeting  with  ultimate  succefs;  and  he 
justly  holds  up  Captain  Franklin  as  an  example  of 
this  kind  of  undaunted  spirit.  To  any  ordinary 
person  it  must  be,  indeed,  inconceivable  how,  after 
enduring  such  almost  unheard-of  sufferings,  he 
should  have  been  not  only  willing,  but  eager,  to 
pursue  his  researches  in  the  very  same  regions : 
nevertheless,  such  is  the  fact.  And  what  is  more 
extraordinary  still,  his  enthusiasm  was  not  confined 
to  his  own  breast,  but  w.os  so  fully  and  warmly 
shared  by  his  wife,  that  althc -.igh  she  was  lying  on 
what  she  knew  must  be  her  death-bed,  when  the 
preparations  were  complete  she  would  not  keep  him 
a  single  day  beyond  that  fixed  for  departure,  Ijut 
entreated  him,  'as  ho  valued  her  peace  of  mind  and 


i 


IPKDITION. 

thorougl»-brc  d 
Kuccumb  under 
[id  that.,  instead 
grow  more  and 
canser,  in  the 
iccef-H ;  and  he 
I  an  example  of 
)  any  ordinary 
able  how,  after 

suflFerings,  he 

but  eager,    to 
Hame   regions  : 

what,  iH  more 
»s  not  confined 
ly  and  warmly 
i  was  lying  on 
•bed,  when  tlu; 

not  keep  him 
departure,  but 
ice  of  mind  and 


1 


KXTRAORDINAUY  KNTHIISIASM. 


189 


his  own  glory,  not  to  delay  a  moment  on  her  ac- 
count ;'  adding,  '  that  it  could  be  but  to  close  her 
eyes.' 

It  was  a  heroism  worthy  of  the  highest  cause  — 
too  high,  perhaps,  most  persons  will  think,  for  a 
matter  of  mere  discovery :  but  such  men  as  Franklin, 
and  such  women  as  Franklin's  wife,  are  apt  to 
regard  the  interests  and  glory  of  their  profession, 
and  still  more  of  their  country,  as  far  beyond  any 
considerat/ons  of  private  interest  or  feeling.  We 
mudt  remember  that,  after  all,  had  not  our  country- 
men posnessed  this  spirit  of  devotion  to  her  honour, 
England  had  never  risen  to  her  present  place 
among  thu  nations.  And  it  is  cheering  to  think 
that  both  our  own  and  other  lands  can  furnish  a  few 
examples  of  as  high  a  courage  in  a  atili  higher 
cause — witness  the  names  of  Mans  Egede^  of  Cap- 
tain Allan  Gardiner,  John  Williams,  Adoniram 
Judson,  and  others. 

Captain  Franklin's  wife,  however,  was  not  the 
only  one  who  participated  in  bis  ardour ;  for  no 
sooner  had  Government  given  consent,  and  directeti 
him  to  prepare  for  his  new  enterprise,  than  many 
distinguished  officers  volunteered  their  services,  and 
amongst  others  Lieutenant  Back  and  Dr.  Richardson. 
They,  too,  had  forgotten  their  sufferings,  and  were 
aa  eager  as  their  capfciin  to  complete  the  geography 
and  natural  history  of  the  shores  of  the  Polar  sea ; 
and  probably  also  they  were  equally  sanguine  a.-;  to 
their  escape  from  a  repetition  of  those  suflTerings  on 
the  present  occ^vaion.     Dr.  Richardson  even  left  a 


\ 


fi 


J{  # 


iiliiliilli 


rt<imiiii)i'iiiiiiiiiif[>iilii(rg!ii(|i| 


lOU 


SIR  JOHN  FRANKLIN. 


ij 


wife  and  family,  and  a  comfortable  position  at  home, 
to  accompany  his  old  friend. 

They  were  now  to  go  direct  to  the  Mackenzie 
River — the  '  Great  River,'  as  it  has  l>een  called  by 
the  settlers  —  and  thence  to  proceed  to  its  mouth,  to 
examine  the  coasts  westward  as  far  as  Icy  Cape,  and 
eastward  to  (he  month  of  the  Coppermine  River;  and 
as  Parry  was  then  out  on  his  third  voyage  it  was 
once  more  hoped  that  they  might  meet  with  and 
assist  him. 

Profiting  by  experience,  they  did  not  trust  to 
such  canoes  as  might  be  obtained  at  the  Company's 
stations,  but  sent  out  by  way  f  Hudson's  Bay 
large  boats  constructed  for  the  puipose,  and  a  little 
one  called  the  *  Walnut-Shell,'  to  be  used  on  certain 
occasions.  Supplied  with  all  kinds  of  comforts  in 
the  way  of  tents,  bedding,  clothing,  waterproof 
dresses,  and  eatables  of  all  possible  descriptions, 
and  with  abundance  of  ammunition,  as  well  as  of 
scientific  instruments,  they  had  no  fear  of  en- 
countering their  former  difficulties. 

On  the  16th  of  February,  1825,  Captain 
Franklin,  Lieut.  Back,  Dr.  Richardson,  Mr.  Kendall, 
the  draughtsman  of  the  party,  and  Mr.  Drummond, 
the  assistant-naturalist,  embarked  at  Liverpool  for 
New  York  with  four  marines,  and  on  the  1.5th  of 
July  they  arrived  safely  at  Fort  Chipewyan,  on  the 
north  of  the  Athabaska  Lake.  As  on  the  former 
occasion,  they  took  every  opportunity  of  engaging 
the  necessary  assistants — Canadian  voyageurs,  and 
Indian  hunters  from  various  tribes — while  the  ser- 


it 


>Hition  at  home, 

the  Mackenzie 
l»een  called  by 
to  its  mouth,  to 
8  ley  Cape,  and 
line  River ;  and 
voyage  it  was 
meet  with  and 

id  not  trust  to 
the  Company's 
Hudson's  Bay 
[)8e,  and  a  little 
used  on  certain 
of  comforts  in 
ng,  waterproof 
e  descriptions, 
,  as  well  as  of 
0   fear    of  en- 

1825,  Captain 
1,  Mr.  Kendall, 
[r.  Drummond, 
Liverpool  for 
m  the  I 5th  of 
tewyan,  on  the 
on  the  former 
;y  of  engaging 
ifoyageurs,  and 
-while  the  ser- 


THEY  I<:MBARK  ON  THE  MACKENZIE. 


191 


vices  of  their  former  excellent  Esquimaux  guide  and 
,  interpreter,  Augustus,  were  also  secured ;  and  Mr. 
Dease,  one  of  the  chief  traders  of  the  Hudson's  Bay 
Company,  was,  happily,  found  willing  to  join  them. 
The  nume  of  this  latter  gentleman  is  now  to  be  met 
with  in  our  niaps  of  North  America  in  several  places. 
Travelling  steadily  on,  the  whole  party  soon 
mustered  in  force  on  tlie  Great  Bear  Lake  river, 
which    falls    into    the   Mackenzie ;  and   while   Dr. 


View  on  t)ie  Hookonxio  Kivoi'. 

Richardson  crossed  the  lake  to  that  point  which  is 
nearest  to  the  river  Coppermine,  and  Lieutenant 
Back  was  left  to  superintend  the  preparation  of  winter 
quarters,  afterwards  named  Fort  F'ranklin,  the  Cap- 
tain himself,  with  another  party,  embarked  on  the 
Mackenzie,  and  sailed  towards  the  ocean. 

As  Mackenzie  has  mentioned  in  his  account,  they 
found  along  the  banks  of  this  river  a  (luantity  of  wood- 
coal,  which  wsia  on  fire,  and  gave  out  a  very  disagree- 


1. 


*-j 


.|iJ 


1^ 


16^ 


sin  JOHN  FUANKI.IN. 


able  smell,  but,  little  lieiit.  There  was  also  a  kind  of 
unctuous  mud,  which  the  Indians  now  and  then  use 
for  food,  or  even  chew  m  an  amusement.  It  has  a 
milky  taste,  and  is  not  unpleasant.  They  noticed, 
too,  a  dark  bituminous  fluid  oozing  from  the 
rocks,  and  two  streams  of  sulplnireous  wat*r  pouring 
into  the  river.  At  a  place  called  the  Ramparts, 
where  it  is  rapid  and  obstructed  by  limestone-rocks, 
they  met  with  some  of  the  Hare  Indians,  laden  with 
fish,  berries,  and  meat.  Both  men  and  women  were 
dressed  in  leathern  clothes,  and  wore  as  ornaments 
beads  and  porcupine  quills.  They  were  entertained 
at  midnight  by  Mr.  Dease  at  P'ort  Good  Hope,  and 
by  means  of  a  half-caste  yoimg  man,  named  Baptiste, 
they  endeavoured  to  open  a  communication  with 
these  people:  but  it  was  unsuccessful,  until  Augustus 
presented  himself.  But  no  sooner  had  tbey  per- 
ceived him  than  they  welcomed  him  with  the  live- 
liest demonstrations  of  affection,  which  appears 
somewhat  singular  when  we  remember  the  hatred 
that  exists  between  the  two  races.  The  river  was 
so  very  broad  at  its  mouth  that  it  was  some  time 
before  Franklin  could  ascertain  that  he  had  really 
reached  the  sea. 

They  landed  as  boon  as  they  had  done  so ;  and  when 
the  tent  was  pitched  on  shore  he  caused  the  silk  Union 
flag,  which  his  wife  had  made  and  presented  to  him 
as  a  parting  gift,  to  be  hoisted  and  unfurled,  forcing 
himself,  against  his  natural  feelings,  to  join  in  the 
cheers  with  which  the  men  saluted  the  British  flag. 

In  fact,  he  was  now  compelled  to  keep  up  the 


IS  also  a  kind  of 
w  und  then  UHe 
lent.  It  Ims  a 
They  noticed, 
sing  from  the 
8  wat*r  pouring 

the  RampartH, 
imeatone-rocks, 
ians,  laden  with 
nd  women  were 
B  as  ornaments 
rere  entertained 
rood  Hope,  and 
lamed  Baptiste, 
unication   witli 

until  Augustus 

had  they  per- 
I  with  the  live- 
which  appears 
ber  the  hatred 

The  river  was 
was  some  time 
,  he  had  really 

te  so ;  and  when 
1  the  silk  Union 
esented  to  him 
:ifurled,  forcing 
to  join  in  the 
e  British  flag. 
:o  keep  up  the 


WINTERINO  AT  THE  FORT. 


spirit*  of  the  party,  for  some  of  t.ie  Canadians  were 
losing  heart  at  this  their  first  sight  of  the  ocean ; 
and,  besides,  an  attack  was  hourly  expected  from  the 
Esquimaux,  whose  territory  tliey  liad  now  entered. 

Unfortunately,  however,  the  water  w  lich  had 
been  mixed  wi'Ji  the  brandy,  with  which  they  were 
to  drink  the  King's  health,  turned  out  to  be  salt 
water ;  and  they  were  obligetl  to  pour  the  whole  on 
the  ground  as  a  libation,  instead  of  enjoying  the 
then  unusual  draught. 

PVanklin  would  have  rejoiced  at  once  to  proceed 
westward,  which  was  to  be  his  share  of  the  explora- 
tion, but  the  -Beasou  was  too  advanced,  and  the  wea- 
ther too  rough:  so  they  returned  to  the  fort,  where 
they  found  all  the  others  assembled,  and  where  very 
comfortable  huildings  had  been  prepared  for  their 
winter  imprisonment  of  eight  or  nine  months.  There 
all  soon  settled  down  to  their  various  employments. 

As  before,  the  officers  naturally  found  work 
enough ;  but  for  the  men  it  had  to  be  made.  In 
the  establisliment  of  schools,  which  proved  very  suc- 
cessful, and  in  which  the  officers  taught,  Franklin 
seems  to  have  taken  a  lesson  from  his  friend  Parry ; 
and  the  Sundays  were  kept  as  days  of  rest,  when  the 
whole  party,  except  two  or  three  of  the  Canadians, 
attended  Divine  service  twice. 

On  other  evenings  a  sort,  of  hall  was  given  up  to 
the  men  for  any  games  that  they  chose,  and  in  these 
the  officers  invariably  joined.  So  an  excellent  feel- 
ing was  preserved  between  all  parties;  while  the 
great  admiration   and   esteem  which  were  felt  for 

O 


*t' 


i. 


if , 


■■■:ifmsnm?»mmam 


mmim 


JBH'tmiiii"'' 


194 


HIR  JOHN  FRANKUK. 


their  ciiptain  proved,  moreover,  a  strong  bond  of 
union  between  them. 

Tlicy  got  through  tlie  winter  comfortably ;  tI)ough 
for  a  Hhort  time  tlicy  were  without  both  fn«h  and 
dried  meatH,  and  but  little  fiBh  was  caught :  so  that 
they  were  obliged  to  resort  to  their  pemmican, 
arrowroot,  and  porUible  soup,  which  were  to  have 
been  wholly  reserved  for  the  sea  voyages. 

Dr.  Richardson  kept  a  regidar  record  of  the 
migrations  and  return  of  the  various  animals  and 
birds:  — 

'  September  1  Ith.  Mosquitoes  cease  to  be  trouble- 
some. 

October  2nd.  Swans  seen  in  flight. 
October  5tli.  Last  swans  seen. 
January  3rd.  All  animals  gone  southward,  except 
the  wolf  and  fox. 

On  the  shortest  day  the  sun  seen  above  the 
horizon,  2''  38"". 

(We  must  remember  tliat  this  was  only  latitude 
65°  11' 56'' N.) 

April  10th.  A  house-fly  seen  out  of  doors. 
May    6th.  The  first  swans  seen, 
„       7th.  The  geese  appeared. 
„       8th.  The  ducks  return. 
„       9th.  The  gulls. 
„     11th.  The  first  rain  fell. 
„     17th.  Various  singing-birds  appeared. 
„     27th.  First  laughing  geese  seen. 
„     Slst.  The  goatfluckier.' 
And  so  on. 


itrong  bond  of 

trtubly ;  though 
both  fnmh  uiid 
AUght :  so  thut 
eir   pemniican, 

wer«  to  have 
yagc». 

record  of  the 
8  animalfl  and 

le  to  be  trouble- 


ithward,  except 
een  above  the 
a  only  latitude 
»f  doors. 


appeared. 
3en. 


HKI'AHATK  INTO  TWO  l'AHTII<X 


190 


Thc!y  were  now  preparing  for  tlieir  voyage ;  an- 
other boat  had  been  made,  and  in  June  till  tlie 
boats  were  got  afloat. 

P'ranklin  and  Back  took  possession  of  the  'Lion' 
and  *  Keliance,'  which  were  manned  by  fourteen  men  ;• 
and  Augustus  went  with  thein.  Dr.  Kichardson, 
who  had  secured  another  Es<|uimaux  guide,  named 
Ooligback,  had  the  'Dolphin'  and  'Union;'  and 
Mr.  Kendall  went  with  him,  and  nine  men. 

It  wiuf  a  hot  day  in  the  end  of  June  when  they 
emlmrked,  and  the  thermometer  stood  at  71°  in  the 
shade.  The  ice  was  drifting  down  so  rapidly  that 
they  were  obliged  to  lie  to  until  next  morning ;  and 
in  the  evening  they  reached  the  Mackenzie. 

On  the  2nd  of  July  they  arrived  at  Fort  Good 
Hope,  on  the  border  of  the  Esquimaux  territory ;  and 
here,  therefore,  each  man  was  armed  with  a  gun  and 
a  dagger,  and  provided  with  ammunition. 

Next  day  they  came  to  that  broad  part  of  the 
river  where  it  divides  into  two  branches,  and  where 
they  were  to  separate— Richardson  taking  the  eastern, 
and  Franklin  the  western  branch  ;  the  aim  of  the 
latter  being  to  reach  Icy  Cape,  where  he  hoped  to 
meet  Captain  Beechey  in  the  ♦  Blossom;'  and  of  the 
former  to  sail  along  the  coast  to  the  mouth  of 
the  Coppermine,  and  then  proceed  by  land  to  the 
north-east  point  of  the  Great  Bear  Lake,  where 
a  boat  was  to  meet  him  to  convey  him  back  to  the 
fort. 

By  the  7th  of  July  Franklin  reached  the  mouth 
of  the   river,  and,  landing,   he   soon  discovered  a 


i  i 


ii^ 


m 


Ml. 


1U() 


MIU  .JOHN  FItANKLlN. 


whole  eiK'iiiiipiiit'iit  of  the  KH<]uitnaiix  on  an  ad- 
joining inland.  liiHtantly  he  retiirned  to  the  hoats  to 
prepare  pienentH,  and  arrange  how  in  the  witiefit 
way  to  open  a  conunnnication  with  theui.  Strict 
ortlers  were  iHHiied  not  to  tirt!  until  tlio  word  was 
given  either  hy  hiniHelf  or  Baek,  and  tlie  boats 
iniiuediately  nteered  towards  the  tents,  with  their 
Hags  tlying;  hut,  unfortunately,  they  ran  aground 
when  about  a  mile  from  the  shore,  and,  without 
\vaiting  to  get  afloat  again,  they  made  signs  to  the 
natives  to  eome  oft".  Ah  soon  as  this  was  under- 
stood, canoes  were  humched  in  such  cpiick  succession 
that  the  sea  seemed  to  Iw  full  of  them.  Elderly 
men  were  in  tlie  first  canoes,  and  seemed  to  have 
been  sent  on  purpose  to  negociate  about  trading,  for 
which  they  were  most  eager. 

Augustus  went  forward  to  meet  them  with  a 
present  in  his  hand,  and  explained  that  the  boats 
litul  come  to  look  for  a  passage,  and  that  probably  if 
(hey  were  suecepsfid  a  large  ship  would  soon  come 
and  begin  a  profitable  commerce  with  them.  On 
hearing  this  they  set  up  a  deafening  shout  of 
applause,  and  all  seeme<i  to  be  going  on  smoothly, 
until,  imfortunately,  one  of  the  kajaks  got  upset 
by  one  of  the  'Lion's'  oars,  and  an  K8«]uimaux 
thereby  placed  in  danger  of  drowning,  as  his  head 
was  stuck  in  the  mud.  The  crew,  however,  has- 
tened to  get  him  out,  and  took  him  into  tlieir  boat, 
where  Augustus  wrapped  him  in  Ids  own  great-coat, 
and  he  soon  became  pacified.  But  once  in,  he  got  a 
sight  of  the  many  treastires  which  were  concealed 


IX  on  an  ad- 
to  the  lionta  to 
in  tl-(;  wiHest 
them.  Strict 
tlio  wt)rd  WAS 
iU(\  tlu)  b<>at8 
t«,  with  their 
r  rnn  ngruiind 
and,  without 
e  8igU8  to  tlie 
iH  WH8  under- 
lick  Hucceasion 
lein.  Elderly 
■emed  to  have 
ut  trmling,  for 

them  with  a 
that  tiin  lioats 
I  at  probably  if 
dd  soon  come 
th  them.  On 
ing  shout  of 
'  on  smoothly, 
aks  got  upset 
\n  KB«]uimaux 
r,  a8  his  head 
however,  has- 
nto  tJjoir  boat, 
wn  great-coat, 
ce  in,  lie  got  a 
'ere  concealed 


I 

I 


.( 


!.i 


(4i 


I 


•raef^-^w^imnmmtemt 


\'l 


:>J 


r^ 


■•■W" '"  ■WW.iiifjHiu  i..«wwi^im  timy-i^tw-ti^- ■ 


noATS  rurNDKnKI)  HY  TIIK  KHgUIMAHX. 


190 


from  till!  iiiitivi'H  by  ooverinf(M,  nrul  liitt  account  of 
tlii«w(  to  liiH  countrymen  cuiiwmI  hucIi  h  iiihIi  on  tin* 
hofitd  tiiiit  for  a  tiino  tliu  |H)Mition  of  tlu>  crcwH  waH 
by  nu  nit'anH  {ilraHunt. 

At   Utn^th  tbo  nativcH  HcixtHl   itack'n  bont,  the 

•  Ucliancc,'  and    Ite^iHi    (lra^^infJ;    it  aHhorc.      Tha 

*  Lion'  attomptt'd  to  follow,  but  Iming  a^rourul,  it 
wa8  unable  to  procftul  until  almt  taken  in  band  by 
the  dovagm;  and  then  they  pi  rcuived  that  tbo 
Ki«]uiniaux  who  had  Inntn  taken  in  had  Ntolen  a 
pi«tol  from  Lieutenant  Back.  Finding?  that  IiIh  theft 
waH  diHcoven^d,  the  fellow  jumptni  overboard  and 
joined  hit4  companionM,  carryiufj  ofT  AujifUMtUM*  jj[reat- 
coai;.  At  the  Humo  moment  two  t)f  tla;  stronj^ewt 
men  jumped  on  board,  and  Heizin^  Franklin  by  the 
wriBtH,  forced  him  to  mt  iMstween  them :  a  third 
8«)on  followed  a«  he  attempted  to  Hhako  tliem  of!', 
Rud  all  kept  repeating  •  Teyma,*  and  boating  gently 
on  his  left  breast,  while  they  premised  IiIh  liandH 
agaiuMt  their  brea(tt«. 

Ah  soon  m  they  reached  the  shore  the  three  men 
leaped  out  and  made  their  escape,  while  others 
stripping  themselves  to  their  waists,  and  drawing 
their  knives,  l)egan  a  regular  pillage  of  the  'Re- 
liance,' all  the  articles  being  handed  to  the  women 
as  soon  as  secured,  and  they  as  quickly  making  off 
with  them.  It  was  a  violent  contest,  and  at  length  Lieu- 
tenant Back  ordered  his  men  to  level  their  nmskets, 
but  not  to  fire  until  the  word  was  given.  Happily, 
it  was  not  necessary,  for  the  natives  all  took  to  their 
heels;  but  Franklin  believed,  that   had  a   man   of 


t 


!■ 


iiiliiiiiiliM8rililTiiiT1Tli1I1tiiTWiiil''l 


W0 


i,^;l 


III 


1  if'' 


200  SIR  JOHN  FRANKLIK. 

thein  fallen,  a  deadly  revenge  woidd  have  l)e<^n  taken 
by  his  cotintrymen. 

The  boats  wore  then  got  afloat,  and  soon  seven 
or  eight  of  the  natives  returned,  and  held  a  con- 
versation with  AugustuR,  inviting  liim  to  a  con- 
ference fm  shore.  Perfectly  fearless  an  to  himself, 
the  lion-hearted  fellow  hugged  so  earnestly  to  go, 
that  at  last  Franklin  consented  ;  and  as  they  watched 
the  effect  of  hia  speech  I  hey  could  perceive  that  it 
was  approved  by  his  compatriots,  by  the  loud  shouts 
of  applause  with  which  it  was  received. 

On  his  return  he  told  the  crews  that  he  had 
reproved  the  natives  for  tl)eir  bad  conduct,  that  it 
had  been  different  from  that  of  any  other  Esquimaux ; 
and  that  he  had  furtiier  told  them  how  much  better 
off  they  would  be  were  they  in  connexion  with 
Europeans,  like  his  own  tribe;  that  tliey  never 
could  expect  to  see  white  men  again  anless  thry 
instantly  brought  back  all  the  stolen  aRicles;^and 
that,  further,  it  was  not  fear,  but  compassion  that 
had  withheld  the  English  from  firing  that  day. 

This  bold  conduct  had  the  desired  effect,  for 
the  natives  strove  to  exctise  themselves  on  the 
ground  of  never  having  seen  white  men  before,  and 
not  being  able  to  resist  so  m»'  7  fine  ar  icles.  They 
brought  back  the  stolen  thmga,  and  thus  by  a  wise 
management  all  bloodshed  was  avoided,  and  affairg 
placed  on  an  amicable  footing. 

The  Esquimaux  are  not  generally  a  warlike 
people,  but  these  perhaps  had  hecomo  so  by  their 
constant  collisions  with  the  Dog-rib  Indians. 


1.    •:!<■ 


CLIV. 

ould  have  Ikm^u  iiikvM 

floaf,  and  soon  seven 
ed,  and  held  a  cou- 
ting  him  to  a  con- 
earless  an  to  hiraself, 
I  8o  earnestly  to  go, 

and  as  they  watched 
ould  perceive  that  it 
:»,  by  the  loud  shouts 
received. 

i  crews  that  he  had 
bad  conduct,  that  it 
ny  other  Esquimaux ; 
lem  how  much  better 

iu  connexion  with 
>e;  that  they  never 
1  again    .'inless  thr j 

stolen  aniclea ;  ^nnd 
but  compassion  that 
Sring  that  day. 
e  desired  effect,  for 

themselves  on  the 
lite  men  before,  and 
fine  ar  icles.  They 
I,  and  thus  by  a  wise 

avoided,  and  affairs 

generally  a  warlike 
':ecoBi(ij  so  by  their 
Dg-rib  Indians. 


/ 


KSQITIMAUX  OF  THE  NOnTII-WRST. 


201 


As  they  proceeded  westward  they  found  them 
more  and  more  like  the  Chinese  Tartars,  and  witli 
small,  oblique  eyes.  Their  ornaments  were  of  a  sin- 
gular character,  and  were  so  highly  valued  tliat  they 
would  not  sell  them.  These  consisted  in  a  piece  of 
bone,  worn  by  every  man  through  his  nose,  and  a 
circular  piece  of  ivory,  with  a  blue  bead  in  the 
centre,  fixed  into  holes  in  the  under-lip,  so  as  to 
keep  the  mouth  open.  Some  of  the  women  were 
good-looking,  and  dressed  their  black  liair  in  u 
tasteful  manner,  turned  up  on  the  top  with  strings 
of  blue  beads  or  white  cord,  and  divided  in  front 
into  two  long  bands  to  the  waist,  ornamented  witli 
beads. 

Lieutenant  Back  took  a  likeness  of  one,  who  was 
highly  flattered  by  the  compliment. 

On  the  13th  they  pursued  their  voyage;  but  not 
till  they  came  to  Herschel  Island  did  tliey  find  a  safe 
anchorage  for  a  ship.  Here  Franklin  visited  Mount 
Conybe&re,  and  had  a  good  view  of  the  various  ranges 
of  the  Kocky  Mountt.ins.     . 

On  the  boundary  of  the  British  dominion  (for  all 
this  land  was  considered  ours ;  we  suppose,  in  virtue 
of  the  grant  to  Prince  Eupert)  they  found  a  river, 
which,  in  honour  of  the  then  Lord  High  Admiral, 
afterwards  William  IV.,  they  named  Clarence.  They 
also,  however,  took  the  liberty  of  naming  one  further 
on,  which  was  in  the  Russian  dominions :  this  they 
called  Canning.  '  „ 

On  the  4th  of  August  they  fell  in  with  apeacffable 
tribe  of  Esquimaux,  with  whom  they  traded ;  but  the 


202 


SIR  JOHN  iBANKLlN. 


further  westward  they  went,  the  more  were  they 
troubled  by  fogs,  gales,  rain,  and  drifts  of  ice.  By 
the  middle  of  this  month  winter  had  really  set  in ; 
and  the  men  having  already  suflfered  much  from  cold 
and  fatigue,  in  dragging  or  carrying  the,  boats, 
Franklin  reluctantly  decided  to  return;  having 
reached  no  further  than  a  point  in  long.  149°  37'  W; 
which  he  named  « Return  Reef:'  little  knowing  that 
at  that  very  time  a  boat's  crew,  sent  by  Captain 
Beechey  from  the  '  Blossom,'  which  liad  rounded  Icy 
Cape,  were  actually  within  160  miles  of  them. 

It  hjid  been  a  harassing  voyage  along  the  coast 
from  MackeiKu'  River,  and  it  was  an  equally  trying 
one  back  again.  Indeed,  in  a  violent  squall  near 
Herschel  Island  they  all  had  a  narrow  escape  of  their 
lives. 

By  the  2 1st  September  they  reached  Fort  Frank- 
lin, where  the  other  party  had  already  arrived,  after 
a  most  piosperous  voyage  and  journey. 

Starting  from  Point  Separation,  Dr.  Richardson 
and  his  crews  had  passed  along  a  low,  flat  coast,  where 
they  had  the  gratification  of  seeing  m*ny  sand- 
martins  thinning  the  ranks  of  their  great  foes,  the 
mosquitoes. 

Rein-deer  Hills  beyond  were  clothed  with  trees  to 
their  very  tops.  At  one  spot,  where  was  an  immense 
spruce-fir  tree,  seven  feet  in  circumference  at  four 
feet  from  the  ground,  they  encamped ;  and  next  day 
they  came  to  a  small  island,  which  being  evidently 
one  of  the  Esquimaux  burial-places,  they  named 
Sacred  Island. 


NATIVKS  PACIFIED  BY  BARTER. 


203 


ore  were  they 
Is  of  ice.  By 
really  set  in ; 
lucli  from  cold 
ng  the,  boatd, 
jtum ;  having 
ar.  149°37'W; 
)  knowing  that 
it  by  Captain 
id  rounded  Icy 
>f  theui. 
long  the  coast 
equally  trying 
it  squall  near 
escape  of  their 

d  B'ort  Frank- 
arrived,  after 

•r.  Kichardsou 

it  coast,  where 

m+ny  sand- 

jfreat  foes,  the 

i  with  trees  to 
«  an  immense 
rence  at  four 
and  next  day 
sing  evidently 
they  named 


A  little  further  on  they  met  with  some  Esqui- 
maux, who  used  threatening  gestures,  and  whom,  at 
Ooligback's  recommendation,  they  avoided  by  in- 
stantly embarking.  The  Indians  in  the  party  spoke 
of  a  large  lake  just  beyond,  which  they  call  Esqui- 
maux I^ake;  and  on  t lie  15th  they  crossed  an  inlet, 
supposed  to  be  connected  with  it,  which  they  called 
Russell  Inlet.  Low  coasts  and  shallow  water  lay 
beyond;  and  on  the  18th,  whilst  sailing  between 
the  little  islands,  a  party  of  Esquimaux  ruslied  out 
upon  them,  brandishing  knives,  and  forbidding  them 
to  land.  But  when  the  Doctor  shouted  *  barter,'  they 
were  instantly  peaceable ;  and  the  presents  they  re- 
ceived soon  rendered  them  almost  frantic  with 
delight. 

A  bundle  of  beads,  caught  by  one  old  woman, 
sent  her  into  transports;  while  another,  who  stood 
by,  became  the  picture  of  despair.  It  was  divided, 
however,  on  Richardson's  recommendation,  and  a 
pleasing  song  was  sung  in  token  of  gratitude;  to 
which  they  kept  time  with  their  oars. 

Tlie  women  *  drew  their  children  out  of  their  wide 
boots,  where  they  are  accustomed  to  keep  them,'  in 
order  to  obtain  beads  also  for  them :  but  at  length 
the  crew  succeeded  in  getting  free,  and  again  pur- 
sued their  voyage.  Having  rounded  Point  Bathurst 
they  came  to  a  bay,  which  Richard8<:)n  named  Franklin 
Bay  ;  and  on  the  opposite  side  of  it  was  a  point,  which 
they  named  Parry  Cape.  Passing  through  a  channel, 
which  was  called,  after  their  boats,  the  Dolphin 
and   Union  Straits,  they  reached  a  spot  at  which 


■rriVBt\i?!tm'm 


204 


SIU  JOHN  KHANKLIN. 


there  was  much  ice :  and  the  '  Dolphin'  woh  so  neiiily 
crualied  between  two  masses,  that  tliey  had  to  Ktop 
until  she  was  again  rendered  seaworthy.  'This 
strait  would  always  be  dangerous  for  ships,'  says 
Bichardson,  '  from  the  number  of  sunken  rocks  which 
it  contains.' 

One  more  rocky  point  was  named  by  him  Cape 
Krusenstern,  after  the  Russian  hydrograplier,  and  tlien 
tliey  -^aine  to  Cape  Heame;  and  their  arrival  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Coppermine  was  announced  to  the  men, 
who  were  quite  unprepared  for  so  speedy  a  termina- 
tion of  the  voyage. 

All  were  in  excellent  heulth,  and  ready  to  com- 
mence their  journey  back.  They  soon  reached  the 
Bloody  Falls  of  Heame,  and  found  the  river  here 
80  full  of  rapids  that,  the  boats  l)eing  utterly  useless, 
they  left  them  stowed  with  a  few  such  articles  as 
Esquimaux  would  like;  and,  dividing  their  provi- 
sions, proceeded  on  foot  to  Deaso's  Fiiver,  on  the  Bear 
Lake,  where  the  expected  boat  soon  arrived ;  f^Z  cliey 
speedily  reached  the  tort  of  whi<h  Mr.  Dease  had 
been  lefi,  iu  charge,  and  found  him  ready  to  receive 
them. 

It  was  thought  necessary  to  pass  a  part  of  the 
following  winter  at  the  fort:  and  so  severe  did  it 
prove,  that  on  the  7th  of  Febmary  the  thermometer 
had  gone  down  to  58*^  below  zero.  But  even  iu 
December  Dr.  Richardson  had  gone  on  to  join  Mr. 
Drummond  in  his  botanising  explorations  on  the 
Saskatchewan  River,  in  order  that  he  might  be  ready 
earlier  in  the  spring  for  making  his  collections. 


^h 


i'  was  so  nearly 
vy  liad  to  stop 
I'ortliy.  ♦  This 
jr  Bhips,'  says 
:eii  rocks  which 

1  by  him  Cape 
ipher,  and  tlien 
■  arrival  at  the 
:ed  to  the  men, 
sdy  a  termina- 

ready  to  com- 
n  reached  the 
fclie  river  here 
utterly  useless, 
ich  articles  as 
?  their  provi- 
er,  on  thu  Bear 
ived;  wd  cliey 
ir.  Dease  had 
!ady  to  receive 

I  a  part  of  the 
severe  did  it 

i  thermometer 
But  even  iu 

n  to  join  Mr. 

ations  on  the 

night  be  ready 

llections. 


DR.  UICHAUDSON  KNIOHTKD. 


205 


In  the  end  of  February  Franklin  followed,  while 
Back  was  sent  on  with  the  English  party  and  the 
Canadians,  whom  he  was  to  send  to  Montreal,  pro- 
ceeding himself  with  the  otiiers  to  York  Factory,  and 
so  to  England.  v  r. 

The  two  Esquimaux  guides  were  carefully  sent 
back  to  their  families  at  Churchill ;  and  the  parting 
with  Augustus  was  quite  affecting.  Their  pay  was 
to  be  handed  over  to  the  Directors  of  the  Company, 
to  be  paid  annually  as  they  re(|iiired  it. 

As  far  as  navigation  went  the  result  of  this  ex- 
jiedition  was  discouriiging ;  for  all  that  northern 
coast  appeared  dangerous,  and  without  any  natural 
harbours  for  large  ships :  but  science  luid,  on  the 
(contrary,  gained  much ;  and  to  Dr.  Richardson's 
exertions,  in  a  great  measure,  was  this  owing.  He 
was,  as  he  well  deserved,  eventually  rewarded  with 
the  honour  of  knighthood. 


906 


CHAPTER  XI. 

sill  JOHN  ROas'  SECOND  VOYA(JE. 

One  expedition  had  thus  succeeded  to  another  in 
quick  Huocession  during  ten  years ;  and  althougli  the 
great  point  had  not  yet  l)een  gained,  yet  every  effort 
had  produced  some  rosuUs,  and  had  been  a  step 
towards  the  attainment  of  the  desired  end. 

Captain  Ross,  meantime,  had  hiin  under  a  cloud 
in  public  estimation,  and  had  long  been  fretting  for 
an  opportunity  of  retrieving  his  lost  reputation  by 
making  another  and  bolder  attempt  in  the  same 
direction. 

Government,  however,  was  almost  tired  of  the 
heavy  expense,  and  seemed  to  feel  that  if  Parry  and 
Franklin  did  not  succeed,  no  one  else  was  likely  to 
do  so.  At  least,  it  would  not  listen  to  any  proposi- 
tion made  by  Captain  Ross.  His  only  resource  was, 
therefore,  to  do  the  thing  on  his  own  account,  simply 
as  a  matter  of  private  speculation.  But  the  difficulty 
was,  how  to  find  the  funds;  and  this  would  have 
proved  an  insuperable  obstacle  bad  he  not  had  a 
wealthy  friend,  who  not  only  felt  great  sympathy  for 


■Hlj 


Mu.  Bcxyrn's  liukrality. 


207 


AGE. 

to  another  in 
d  althougli  the 
et  every  effort 
1  been  a  st«p 
i  end. 

under  a  cloud 
en  fretting  for 

reputation  by 
■  in  the  same 

t  tired  of  the 
it  if  Parry  and 

was  likely  to 
»  any  proposi- 

resource  was, 
scount,  simply 
;  the  difficulty 
s  would  have 
^e  not  had  a 

sympathy  for 


his  own  uncomfortable  position,  but  hIho  took  con- 
siderable interest  in  all  such  discoveries. 

The  promised  reward  of  20,0001.,  offered  by  Go- 
vernment to  the  discoverer  of  the  passage,  deterred 
this  friend  from  coming  forward  at  first,  for  he 
feared  lest  any  unworthy  motive  H?!0'.<]d  be  imputed  to 
him;  but  when,  in  1S2»,  that  offer  was  withdrawn, 
Mr.  Felix  Booth  at  omje,  to  the  Captain's  great  de- 
light, laid  down  the  sum  of  17,000^.,  to  which  Ross 
added  3000^.,  and  immediately  set  about  making 
preparations. 

Having  looked  at  several  vessels,  he  finally  se- 
lected the  'Victory,'  a  Liverpool  merchant-ship, 
which  he  bought  and  sent  into  dock  at  Limehouse, 
to  be  strengthened  for  the  hard  service  to  which  it 
was  destined,  and,  moreover,  to  be  turned  into  a 
steam-vessel ;  for,  though  these  were  the  early  days 
of  steam,  yet  Captain  Ross  was  enthusiastic  on  the 
subject,  and  quite  convinced  that  this  newly-disco- 
vered power  would  prove  very  valuable  on  the  icy 
seas. 

It  was  on  the  23rd  of  May  that  the  'Victory' 
left  the  docks  and  steamed  down  the  river ;  but  the 
engine  soon  proved  faulty,  and  caused  several  de- 
lays, 80  that  it  was  past  the  middle  of  June  before 
they  fairly  left  the  British  shores.  At  Douglas,  in 
the  Isle  of  Man,  they  had  to  put  in  for  repairs ;  and 
again  at  Port  Logan,  in  order  to  send  Hardy,  the 
stoker,  ashore,  the  poor  fellow  having  had  one  of 
his  arms  nearly  torn  off  by  one  of  the  spur-wheels, 
whilst  in  the  act  of  oiling  the  piston-rod. 


If 


906 


81 R  JOHN  ROSH. 


Another  vesael,  named  the  'John,'  had  been 
engaged  to  join  them  hereabouts,  and  to  accompany 
the  '  Victory' aH  far  m  to  the  wreck  of  the  'Fury,' 
carrying  stores  out,  and  returning  witli  her  cargo. 
But  the  season  was  now  getting  advanced ;  and  a 
suspicion  having  ent«red  the  minds  of  the  '  John's' 
crew  that  they  would  be  required  to  winter  in  the 
ice,  they  demanded  from  Captain  Ross  some  security 
that  tliis  should  not  Ix)  the  case.  He  refused  to  give 
it;  and  the  'Victory'  had,  therefore,  to  proceed 
alone  on  her  voyage. 

Long  before  they  reached  Cape  Farewell  the 
whole  crew  were  heartily  tired  of  their  engine,  which 
was  constantly  out  of  order ;  so  that  sometimes  the 
captain  and  engineers  were  up  all  night  endeavour- 
ing to  repair  the  leaks  in  it,  while  the  men  were 
kept  constantly  at  the  bellows  to  keep  the  steam 
up,  or  gathering  ice  for  the  purpose  of  feeding  the 
boilers. 

At  length  the  ship  was  got  into  a  fine  harbour 
in  South  Greenland,  and  made  fiist  to  the  rocks. 
The  Danish  governor  and  minister  came  on  board ; 
and  they  had  some  pleasant  intercourse  with  a  few 
of  the  Esquimaux  of  this  settlement,  who  appeared 
particiilarly  honest  and  well-behaved. 

It  was,  however,  a  dangerous  coast;  and  the 
wreck  of  a  London  vessel,  the  'Rookwood,'  lay  in 
the  same  harbour. 

A  bargain  was  soon  struck  with  the  governor  for 
her  stores,  among  which  were  many  things  of  which 
they  stood  greatly  in  need:    and  after  purchasing 


'  WIW»^l>»«IJWgPW!f»iHili.MiW<iLIBiMi.  IMX  V 


v^fiV!^!>^'i!f}rt!fmiiS^^:^^^T''[:r^r>'^-t::.'2  •■:• 


FnUITLESS  SEARf'H  FOU  THE  '  FURY.' 


209 


>hn,'  had  been 
i  to  accoiiiptuiy 
of  the  '  Fury,' 
with  her  cargo. 
Ivanced ;  and  a 
ofthe' John's' 
)  winter  in  the 
8  Home  security 
refused  to  give 
re,  to  proceed 

Farewell  the 
r  engine,  which 

sometimes  the 
sfht  endeavour- 

the  men  were 
[eep  the  steam 

of  feeding  the 

a  fine  harbour 

to  the  rocks. 

arae  on  board ; 

rse  with  a  few 

who  appeared 
I. 

oast;  and  the 
•kwood,'  lay  in 

le  governor  for 
:hings  of  which 
ter  purchasing 


some  warm  winter  clothes  and  skins  they  pursued 
their  course,  passing  Disco  Island,  and  running 
across  Davis's  Straits  into  Lancaster  Sound,  and  up 
Barrow's  Straits  with  a  fair  wind,  and  little  or  no 
obstruction  from  the  ice. 

On  the  10th  of  August,  having  turned  south- 
wards, land  was  seen  on  both  sides,  and  it  was  found 
that  they  were  actually  in  Prince  Regent's  Inlet. 
The  next  day  they  passed  Port  Bowen  ;  and,  crossing 
over  to  the  western  side,  they  arrived  on  the  12th  in 
sight  of  the  very  spot  where  the  '  Fury '  should  have 
lain.  All  the  officers  went  ashore  and  made  a 
careful  search,  but  no  •  Fury '  being  visible,  it  was 
concluded  that  the  moving  ice  had  carried  her  down, 
and  that  she  had  gone  to  the  bottom. 

From  the  appearance  of  the  tents  under  which 
her  provisions  had  been  stowed  away,  it  was  evident 
that  bears  had  visited  the  spot ;  but  the  hermetically 
sealed  casks  had  entirely  prevented  these  creatures 
from  getting  the  least  notion  of  what  they  contained ; 
and  the  stores  of  meat,  flour,  sugar,  cocoa,  &c.,  were 
consequently  as  good  as  when  left  there  by  Parry 
some  four  years  before. 

This  addition  to  their  supplies,  though  not  per- 
haps of  much  apparent  value  at  the  time,  as  the 
'Victory'  came  out  with  provisions  for  1000  days, 
turned  out  in  the  end  a  most  providential  one ;  and 
without  it  the  whole  crew  of  twenty-three  persons 
would  most  likely  have  perished.  But  little  did 
they  then  imagine  how  long  it  would  be  before  they 
again  reached  their  native  shores ;  and  Ross  had  no 

P 


21U 


HIR  JOHN  ROHH. 


mind  to  linger  lii>rp;  for  juHt  jih  I'ftrry  hiul  HJicceeded 
wlu^ro  \w,  failed,  mo  whh  he  now  unxiouH  to  Hucceed 
witere  Parry  had  failed. 

It  waH  a  remarkably  favourul'ln  Heason,  and  the 
vessel  continued  her  voyaj^e  all  down  the  western 
Hide  of  this  inlet,  the  northern  part  of  which  had 
been  named  by  Parry,  North  SoraerHet. 

They  found  that  the  Htrait  led,  aH  the  EHqui- 
maux  lady,  Iligliuk,  had  Haid  it  did,  into  a  large 
gulf;  and  tluH  gulf  Hohh  now  namtni  after  IiIh  friend, 
the  Gulf  of  Boothia :  though  Sir  John  Barrow  says 
that  it  should  be  the  Gidf  of  Akkolee,  because  all  its 
western  shores  are  called  by  the  Esquimaux  the  land 
of  Akkolee.  At  the  bottom  of  this  gulf,  on  the 
western  side,  and  just  opposite  to  the  Fury  and 
Hecla  Strait,  was  a  convenient  *iarbour,  to  which  the 
captain  gave  the  name  of  Felix,  also  a/ter  his  friend, 
and  there  it  was  soon  evident  they  would  have  to 
winter.  In  fact,  by  the  8th  of  October  they  were 
fast  frozen  in. 

It  was  necessary,  however,  to  get  the  vessel 
further  i  shore ;  as,  where  she  lay,  she  was  exposed 
to  the  violence  of  severe  gales.  It  was  a  work  of 
considerable  diflSculty  to  get  a  canal  cut,  through 
which  she  might  be  hauled  up,  and  also  to  get  many 
of  her  stores,  and  especially  the  powder,  removed  to 
a  secure  spot  on  the  land.  This  done,  it  was  next 
discovered  that  the  heavy  snow  which  fell  was  pene- 
trating through  the  decks  into  the  berths ;  and,  to 
remedy  this  inconvenience,  the  crew  were  set  to  dig 
holes  on  shore  in  search  of  gravel,  which  at  length 


WWp»^wi«i  1 1  >iiiii.nw  ammi  iiimjBiimw  u.  jfwfom'- 


I 


PHKCAimoNH  AOAINHT  DAMP. 


911 


luul  Hucc'ceded 
uUH  to  Hucceed 

Hea8on,  and  the 
n  th«  western 

of  which  ^lad 
set. 

aH  the  Esqui- 
,  into  a  hirgo 
iter  hin  friend, 
in  Barrow  says 

becauHe  all  its 
ima)ix  the  land 
i  gulf,  on  the 
the  Fury  and 
r,  to  which  the 
liter  his  friend, 
would  have  to 
iber  they  were 

?et  the  vessel 
le  was  exposed 
was  a  work  of 
I  cut,  through 
BO  to  get  many 
er,  removed  to 
fie,  it  was  next 
fell  was  pene- 
lerths ;  and,  to 
ivere  set  to  dig 
hich  at  length 


they  very  fortunately  found,  tnd  with  that  they 
covered  the  upper  deck.  Then  they  adopted  the 
curious  expedient  of  putting  a  thick  layer  of  snow 
over  the  gravel ;  and  thus  the  danger  of  the  berths 
becoming  damp  from  any  drift  penetrating  into 
them  was  obviated. 

They  had  now  wupplies  left  for  thirty  months; 
but  not  HO  large  a  stock  of  fuel  as  they  could  have 
wished,  the  engine  having  couKunuHl  no  snuiU  portion 
of  it. 

Tlie  '  Victory'  was  very  inferior  to  botli  the '  Heela' 
and  '  Fury'  in  point  of  comfort  and  convenieuoe;  so 
that  the  men  suffered  far  more  from  cold  than  the 
crews  of  those  vessels  had  done.  Btit  Captain  Rons 
did  his  best  with  the  means  in  his  power,  and  imi- 
tated the  examples  that  had  been  set  by  Parry  and 
Franklin  in  the  establishment  of  schools,  and  in  the 
enforcement  of  exercise  when  no  active  work  was  re- 
quired. He  had  not,  however,  the  same  genial  na- 
ture which  had  rendered  them  so  belovcnl  by  their 
men ;  coula  not  descend  from  the  captain  to  the 
friend ;  and  though  he  attended  to  their  welfare  in 
the  main,  he  does  not  seem  to  have  unclerstood  that 
in  this  dreary  spot  they  required  all  the  little  plea- 
sures and  indulgences  that  could  be  afforded  them. 
It  was  well,  therefore,  perhaps,  that  so  much  labour 
was  absolutely  necessary  in  order  to  make  themselves 
comfortable,  and  that  thus  they  had  less  leisure  on 
their  hands. 

A  few  bears  and  wolves  now  and  then  afforded 
them  a  little  sport;  and  the  men  used  at  times  to 


wmm 


/• 


212 


HIR  JOHN  ROHH. 


iiinu«o  tliernHflveH  Ity  Retting  trnp^  for  foxf!H  and 
Hoiiln,  the  HkinM  of  wliicli,  an  wrll  an  tli«»  oil  of  the 
Uttwr,  were  very  valuut)l«  to  thorn.  Conunnnder 
JaiiieH  UoMH,  who  had  accoinpunicd  hU  uin-lo,  wm 
particuliirly  HitccoHNftd  witli  IiIh  seal-trapH ;  and  he 
aim)  Hhot  a  few  grotme,  gullH,  and  ptarnii(j;an ;  the 
two  latter  Itelongin^f  to  v«ry  iKtaiitiful  Hpticies. 

Tho  nuile  ptarmigan  wiw  perfectly  white,  with 
large  Hcarlet  eyebrows,  and  the  legs  and  feet  of  hoth 
male  and  female  were  covered  with  long  white 
featherH  down  to  the  claws.  One  of  the  gidU  was  a 
kittewake,  the  most  elegant  bird  in  the  species.  Its 
bill  is  lemon-colour,  its  plumage  ash,  black  and 
whito,  and  its  legs  a  livid  shade. 

In  November  the  aurora  borealis  began  to  appear 
in  the  lieavens  with  uncommon  splendour.  It  would 
be  seen  first  in  broad  masses,  and  then  suddenly 
break  out  into  columns  and  streamers,  which  spread 
all  over  the  sky  ;  and,  in  the  absence  of  the  sun,  it 
must  have  been  a  never-ending  amusement  to  watch 
its  varying  forms  and  colours.  The  rays  vary  in 
colour,  and  are  sometimes  of  a  steel-j^rcy,  yellowish- 
grey,  pea-green,  golden,  violet,  or  purple ;  at  others 
every  description  of  red,  pink,  or  orange ;  sometimes 
the  beams  tpke  the  form  of  arches,  and  are  t'nged 
with  black ;  sometimes  it  appears  very  high  ir  the 
heavens,  while  at  others  it  seems  to  flash  acres",  the 
earth  like  lightning. 

Commander  James  Roas  endeavoiu'ed  to  ascer- 
tain the  truth  regarding  the  noises  wliich  some 
persons  speak  of  as  accompanying  tliia  appearance, 


■■litWi)l<IW:l!tiiWU,j^i.niigUijy^j|,j_^^j^^,,^i,,,,,,.y^.,,,^^^^,,^^^^ 


for  foxeH  And 
tli«»  oil  of  the 
(."<>?»mnn(ler 
IiIh  uiK'lc,  waM 
trapH ;  and  he 
tHrniigan ;  the 
il  Hpi^cieH. 
\y  white,  with 
id  feet  of  l)oth 
Il  long  white 
the  gidln  was  a 
[)  HpecieH.  It8 
Hh,  black   and 

egan  to  appear 
our.  It  wotild 
then  stiddenly 
,  which  Hpread 

of  the  8un,  it 
ment  to  watch 

rayH  vary  in 
rey,  yellowish- 
pie  ;  at  others 
ge;  sometimes 
md  are  I'nged 
ry  high  ir  the 
ash  acrosi  the 

iired  to  ascer- 
<  wiiicli  some 
lis  appearance, 


I 


OLD  KS^iriMAlX  AND  HIS  I.AMK  SOX. 


218 


hut  he  could  come  to  uo  conclusion.  Its  influ*'iic<< 
on  the  magnet  had,  however,  Inien  pretty  well  mcer- 
tBined,anil  i-liietly  liy  ohhervation'  made  hy  Fn  nkliti, 
UichardMuii,  and  Hack,  as  we  Iwive  iiet'ort'  ftiitetl. 
Kariy  in  .luiiiiiiry,  liowever,  they  hud  a  phusautfr 
and  more  cheering  interruption  to  their  solitud  •, 
for  the  report  of  one  of  their  guns  brought  them 
some  human  visitorM. 

Captaiti  UoHH  was  on  shore  when  Allan  .M'lnnisR, 
the  second  engint«r,  siiouted  <hat  he  heard  strange 
voices,  and  a  few  minutes  after  a  tribe  of  Ksijuiinaux 
were  seen  on  the  beach.  Ho  tlie  officers  instantly 
went  off  in  search  of  tlie  captain  ;  and  a  friendly 
intercourse  was  soon  established  with  tliese  "people, 
although  at  first  they  were  rather  shy. 

An  old  man,  who  had  to  be  drawn  on  a  sledge, 
wan  introduced  first,  together  with  his  sonTiillooachia, 
who  had  but  one  leg.  They  were  found  to  have 
come  fntm  the  south,  and  to  be  well  acijuainted 
with  th?  surrounding  country,  and  when  introduced 
into  the  cabin,  and  shown  the  various  pictures  and 
charts,  they  were  easily  made  to  comprehend  their 
meaning  and  use.  Like  those  whom  Parry  had 
met,  they  were  soon  ready  enough  to  contribute 
charts  themselves ;  and  in  drawing  them  it  was  re- 
marked that  they  always  noted  the  places  where 
provisions  were  to  be  found,  necessity  having 
sharpened  their  wits  in  this  matter.  They  de- 
scribed the  land  to  the  south  as  only  a  narrow  strait 
dividing  two  seas,  the  correctness  of  which  state- 
ment it  was  determined  to  ascertain  as  soon  as  the 
spring  returned. 


m 


.■iJiaUifinflrt 


214 


SIR  JOHN  ROSS. 


These  poor  people  were  very  different  from 
those  whom  Franklin  had  met  in  the  north ;  they 
were  good  -  humoured,  peaceable,  and  evidently 
ploiised  with  their  visitors.  They  also  gave  token 
of  possessing  a  vir.ae  not  common  among  savages, 
namely,  gratitude ;  for  in  return  for  the  presents  be- 
stowed on  them  they  seemed  anxious  to  perform  any 
acts  of  kindness  in  their  power.  They  were  an 
ingenious  people,  too ;  and  their  clothes  and  various 
domestic  implements,  sledges,  knives,  and  spears, 
showed  considerable  skill.  The  men  and  women 
dressed  exactly  alike,  and  in  winter  t^ey  wore  a 
double  suit  of  clothes,  both  sets  being  made  of 
skins;  the  fur  of  one  against  the  flesh,  and  of  the 
other  outside.  These  clothes  were  neatly  made, 
being  sewed  firmly  with  bone  needles  and  moss 
thi-ead.  The  women  carried  their  infants  either  in 
their  hoods  or  in  their  enormous  boots,  the  latter 
of  which  served  as  general  store-rooms,  even  food 
being  kept  in  them. 

It  was  a  curious  sight  to  watch  these  Esquimaux 
when  hunting  for  seals.  Tlie  first  thing  they  did 
was  to  build  a  semicircular  snow-hut  near  to  a  seal's 
hole ;  and  in  this  they  would  sit  crouched  down  for 
hours,  no  matter  how  great  the  cold,  watching  for 
the  appearance  of  the  desired  snout,  like  a  cat 
watching  for  a  mouse.  When  it  came  up  the  hunter 
would  niake  no  movement,  but  remain  still  and 
quiet,  almost  holding  his  breath,  until  the  animal 
had  got  to  some  distance  from  its  hole,  when  he 
suddenly  rushed  upon  him  and  killed  him  with  his 
spear. 


l..,ll|»ll>jyi|UIH.WllB 


^. 


TAKING  OFF  A  LEG. 


215 


very  different  from 
t  in  the  north;  they 
able,  and  evidently 
Phey  also  gave  token 
mon  among  savages, 
n  for  the  presents  be- 
Qxious  to  perform  any 
wer.  They  were  an 
ir  clothes  and  various 
,  knivea,  and  spears, 
he  men   and   women 

winter  <;Jhey  wore  a 
sets  being  made  of 
the  flesh,  and  of  the 

were  neatly  made, 
e  needles  and  moss 
heir  infants  either  in 
tons  boots,  the  latter 
ore-rooms,  even  food 

itch  these  Esquimaux 
first  thing  they  did 
w-hut  near  to  a  seal's 
lit  crouched  down  for 
le  cold,  watching  for 
ed  snout,  like  a  cat 
it  came  up  the  hunter 
mt  remain  still  and 
ith,  until  the  animal 
m  its  hole,  when  he 
i  killed  him  with  his 


Some  persons  may  possibly  be  curious  to  know 
how  savages  amputate  a  broken  leg;  so  it  may  be 
worth  while  to  describe  the  manner  in  which  the 
operation  was  performed  on  TuUooachia.  In  the 
first  place,  the  upper  part  of  the  leg  had  been  bound 
tightly  with  leathern  thonga  ;  then  all  the  flesh 
stripped  off  the  lower  part  wita  their  rude  knives, 
the  bone  placed  in  a  hole  in  the  ice  and  snapped 
asunder.  The  surgeon  of  the  'Victory,'  however, 
thought  that  a  new  one  might  be  made  for  the  poor 
fellow  ;  so  he  called  the  carpenter  to  come  and  „ake 
his  measure.  As  soon  as  TuUooachia  und*^' stood 
what  was  proposed  he  went  into  a  rapturous  fit  of 
delight,  and  when  it  was  finished  and  fitted  on,  his 
joy  was  still  more  extravagant,  and  he  walked  about 
with  it  in  the  proudest  manner. 

In  April,  Commander  James  Ross  began  his 
journeys  across  the  Ian '  of  which  he  made  five  or 
six,  discovering  at  different  times  the  narrow  isthmus 
oi  Boothia,  its  width — only  about  fifteen  miles,  with 
a  lake  in  the  centre— and  the  strait  to  the  west,  which 
bears  his  name.  He  seems  to  have  been  the  only 
man  on  board  at  all  acquainted  with  geology, 
natural  history,  and  botany,  and  in  each  depart- 
ment he  collected  numerous  specimens.  In  fact, 
most  of  the  discoveries  of  every  kind  that  were  made 
during  this  voyage,  if  not  all,  were  made  by  him. 
On  his  journeys  some  of  the  Esquimaux  generally 
accompanied  him  as  guides ;  but  on  the  tliird  occa- 
sion, when  visiting  their  village  before  starting,  for 
the  purpose  of  securing  some  compai^ions,  a  most 


>" 


216 


SIR  JOHN  ROSS. 


extraordinary  change  seemed  to  have  come  over 
the  people.  Perfect  silence  reigned  there,  and 
instead  of  the  usual  welcome,  a  number  of  Es- 
quimaux were  soon  perceived  approaching,  fully 
armed,  and  all  the  women  and  children  set  on  pne 
side  behind  them — a  sure  sign  of  war.  AH  at 
once  an  old  man  sprang  out  of  a  hut,  and  began 
brandishing  his  knives  in  the  air  with  the  most 
furious  gestures.  He  looked  wild  and  furious,  and 
would  have  rushed  on  his  visitors  had  not  his  two 
sons  pinioned  his  arms. 

Commander  Ross  attempted  in  vain  to  obtain  an 
explanation;  but  when  others  appeared  ready  to 
second  the  old  man,  and  formed  themselves  into  two 
lines,  in  order  to  cut  off  his  retreat  to  the  vessel,  he 
and  his  companion,  the  surgeon,  lowered  their  guns, 
and  were  about  to  fire.  Happily,  this  motion  was 
sufficient ;  for  the  whole  company  took  to  their  heels 
and  fled. 

After  some  time  one  woman  timidly  approached ; 
and  from  her  they  learnt  that  aybung  adopted  son  of 
the  old  man,  having  died  in  consequence  of  a  stone 
falling  on  his  head,  the  English  were  suspected  of 
having  caused  the  disaster  by  magic,  in  which  the 
Esquimaux  have  a  firm  belief;  and  therefore  they 
determined  to  have  their  revenge.  After  a  consi- 
derable expenditure  of  eloquence.  Commander  Ross 
persuaded  them,  however,  that  it  was  all  a  dream  of 
their  own  imagination ;  and  then  he  started  off  with 
his  three  guides. 

In  the  month  of  June  the  crew  began  to  be  em- 


Wl'lP*  MWJi.l  llUM|i,»)  l,|ii.ij.j|Jim)! 


mum 


re  come  over 
Mi  tliere,  and 
imber  of  Es- 
oaching;  fully 
en  set  on  pne 
war.  All  at 
lit,  and  began 
rith  the  moBt 
d  furious,  and 
i  not  his  two 

n.  to  obtain  an 
ired  ready  to 
elves  into  two 
the  vessel,  he 
ed  their  guns, 
is  motion  was 
;  to  their  heels 

y  approached; 
idopted  son  of 
nee  of  a  stone 
suspected  of 
in  which  the 
therefore  they 
A.fber  a  consi- 
nmander  Koss 
ivU  a  dream  of 
arted  off  with 

fan  to  be  em- 


\f^ 


IJ»!  i,H*ininl»Jiji  ".|"H!'?.K." 


THE  '  VICTOKY'  LKAVES  FELIX  HARBOUR.        219 

ployed  in  preparing  the  '  Victory'  for  her  departure 
from  Felix  harbour,  although  it  must  he  some  time 
yet  before  the  ice  open'jd.  But  there  was  plenty  of 
amusement  as  well  as  work  at  that  season,  when  all 
kinds  of  animals  and  birds  flock  back  to  their  usual 
haimts. 

Both  Captain  Ross  and  his  nephew  made  varior 
expeditions  into  the  country :  and  the  latter  was  in- 
defatigable in  his  endeavours  to  find  out  more  of  the 
geography  of  the  country,  in  order  that  they  might 
be  prepared  to  sail  in  the  most  eligible  direction  as 
soon  as  the  ice  broke  up. 

He  used  to  go  out  with  sledges  drawn  by  dogs, 
but  on  the  14th  of  this  month  he  came  back  with 
only  two  out  of  nine  of  these  animals :  theit  pro- 
visions having  fallen  so  short,  that  he  had  been  ob- 
liged to  kill  the  others.  Thus  the  labou-  '  r  the 
men  bad  been  greatly  increased,  and  on  iheir 
return  *hey  looked  almost  ghastly  from  want  and 
fatigue. 

The  Commander  was  also  disheartened,  because 
he  had  failed  to  discover  a  passage  out  of  the  gulf; 
and  he  determined  now  to  try  in  a  more  southerly 
direction  for  an  opening. 

It  was  not,  however,  until  the  4th  of  September 
that  the  vessel  was  able  to  leave  Felix  ha?bour,  al- 
though it  had  appeared  probable  that  she  might  get 
out  in  July;  and  even  when  off,  she  had  scarcely 
gone  three  times  her  own  length  before  she  grounded 
on  a  rock,  slipped  off,  and  grounded  again  on  the 
bottom  of  the  water. 


^ 


820 


SIR  JOHN  ROSS. 


As  quickly  as  possible  her  stores  were  got  out, 
and  placed  on  shore,  in  order  to*  lighten  her;  but  the 
most  intense  anxiety  waa  felt  as  to  whether  she  would 
float  next  high  tide.  It  was  almost  a  question  of 
life  and  death  to  the  crew;  and  at  any  rate,  should 
she  remain  fixed,  their  only  alternative  must  be  to 
proceed  in  their  boats  to  Baffin's  Bay,  and  there  ob- 
tain a  passage  home  in  some  whalor.  But  no  whaler 
could  be  looked  for  that  season ;  and  so  there  would 
be  no  alternative  but  to  winter  once  more  on  that 
dreary  coast. 

The  tide,  however,  came  rolling  in;  the  ship 
began  to  heave;  and  intense  wls  the  relief  expe- 
rienced when  the  watch  on  the  mows  shouted,  '  She 
floats  1  she  floata  1 ' 

But  September  was  getting  on,  and  the  young  ice 
again  forming;  so  that  there  waa  no  time  to  belost. 
On  the  17th,  however,  a  strong  w'nd  opened  the  ice; 
and  the  ship  was  got  under  sail,  and  proceeded  about 
four  miles.  Then  it  was  fastened  to  an  iceberf*',  to 
wait  until  next  morning. 

This  step  seems  to  have  been  a  false  one ;  at  least 
it  was  thought  by  some  that  the  Captain  might,  by  a 
bolder  course,  have  been  able  to  clear  the  narrow 
passage,  and  get  out  into  the  open  sea. 

No  doubt  the  position  T/ns  a  difficult  one ;  but 
the  opportunity  was  certainly  lost :  and  soon  the  pres- 
sure of  the  ice  became  so  great,  that  there  remained 
no  alternative  but  to  get  the  '  Victory'  back  into  her 
old  quarters ;  and  how  the  hearts  of  the  crew  sank 
within  them,  may  not  be  easily  imagined. 


mmmiimmmm 


AiNW*'»-i»»t'iWA-iWiWi,»:j!g.<.'i>!9fi; 


T!'^%?;.*i!!".V-S.Si&: 


were  got  out, 
in  her ;  but  the 
!ther  she  would 

a  question  of 
ay  rate,  should 
ve  must  be  to 
,  and  there  ob- 
But  no  whaler 
so  there  would 

more  on  that 

in ;  the  ship 
e  relief  expe- 
shouted,  'She 

1  the  young  ice 
ime  to  be  lost, 
pened  the  ice ; 
oceeded  about 
an  iceberg,  to 

5  one ;  at  least 
in  might,  by  a 
ir  the  narrow 
3ea. 

cult  one;  but 
soon  the  pres- 
liere  remained 
back  into  her 
;he  crew  sank 
ined. 


DISCOVERY  OF  WESTERN  MAGNETIC  POLE.       221 

The  consequence,  however,  was  the  discovery  of 
the  Western  Magnetic  Pole ;  of  which  Parry  had  been 
in  search  during  his  several  voyages.  He  had,  as 
we  have  related,  observed  the  sluggishness  of  the 
magnet  about  long.  93°  30',  and  lat.  70°  N.,  and 
surmised  that  they  were  near  that  point ;  but  in 
order  to  discover  tiie  exact  spot  it  was  necessary  to 
have  placed  the  needle  where  it  should  not  move  at 
all. 

This  Commander  James  Ross  accomplished ; 
and  having  done  so,  ho  writes  that  he  *  leaves  his 
readers  to  imagine  his  transports,'  and  how  '  all  his 
perils  and  fatigues  were  forgotten  ;'  while  he  *  felt  as 
if  he  had  nothing  to  do  but  to  go  home  and  be  happy 
for  the  rest  of  his  days.' 

That  winter  passed,  and  August  came  again,  when 
they  must  try  once  more  to  get  the  *  Victory'  out  of 
its  harbour. 

Yet  once  more  were  they  doomed  to  disappoint- 
ment ;  for  she  came  out  only  to  be  forced  to  enter 
another  harbour,  and  pass  a  third  winter  there. 

It  was  in  the  month  of  April,  1832,  that  they 
came  at  last  to  the  sorrowful  conclusion  that,  if 
saved  at  all,  it  must  be  by  abandoning  their  poor 
vessel,  and  proceeding  northward  with  their  stores, 
partly  in  boats,  carried  overland,  and  partly  in 
sledges. 

This  course  was  now  decided  on  ;  but  so  terrible 
was  the  labour  of  the  undertaking,  and  so  often  had 
they  to  return  to  the  ship,  that,  by  the  end  of  the 
month,  although  they  had  traversed  1 10  miles,  yet 


I 


MZSr  ^'i^y?'feff^y?j??,#j^w.yayi^?*'M->y'^  .^-^^-ff^figaFtg?.^,.  ■. 


^ 


229 


HtK  JOHN  ROSS. 


they  were  only  eighteen  from  the  spot  whence  they 
started. 

On  the  28th  of  May  they  drank  a  final  glass  of 
grog  on  board  the  ship,  and  sadly  bid  adieu  to  their 
old  friend,  [t  was  the  1  st  of  July  when  they  reached 
Fury  Point,  where  still  some  supplies  remained,  and 
anxiously  did  they  watch  the  ice  in  the  vaii  hope  of 
getting  into  Davis's  Strait  before  the  whalers  went 
home.  A  fourth  winter  had  to  be  passed  at  Fury 
Point ;  and  July  came  round  again  before  they  could 
make  another  effort.  This  time  they  got  half  way 
lip  the  inlet  to  Batty's  Gulf;  but  there,  again,  they 
had  to  stop  awhile,  watching  the  weather  in  agonies 
of  hope  and  fear. 

At  length  a  clear  passage  opened  one  evening ; 
and  by  four  next  morning  all  the  crew  were  cutting  a 
passage  through  the  brush  ice  on  the  bank,  and  once 
more  the  boats  were  launched.  It  was  truly  a  last 
attempt ;  for  if  again  driven  back  to  Port  Fury  they 
must  all  have  perished  by  starvation,  or  by  the  jaws 
of  wild  beasts ;  but  this  time  the  channel  continued 
to  open  and  to  widen.  They  went  on  and  on,  past 
Leopold  Isle,  and  the  eaat  point  of  the  strait. 

Forced  once  by  a  hurricane  to  land  at  York 
Cape,  they  went  on  next  day,  and  did  not  rest  again 
until  the  25th  of  August. 

They  then  landed  again,  set  up  their  tents,  and 
were  repairing  their  boats,  when  the  joyful  word,  *  A 
sail  I'  was  heard  from  the  watch  ;  and  every  one 
sprang  to  his  feet,  asking,  '  Is  it  a  sail,  or  only  an 
iceberg?' 


mmm'. 


wmmmmmmm'n.  mm 


•KSBPSSSSETBr? 


'^■:vvs,.'mAS-m:tt'km--i:.7wi 


THE  '  ISABELLA'  SAVKS  f'BEW  OF  THE  'VKTORV.'    223 


3t  whence  they 

1  final  gloHs  of 
adioii  to  their 
n  they  reached 
remained,  and 
e  vai'i  hope  of 
!  whalers  went 
assed  at  Fury 
ore  they  could 
J  got  half  way 
re,  again,  they 
;her  in  agonies 

I  one  evening ; 
were  cutting  a 
lank,  and  once 
as  truly  a  last 
ort  Fury  they 
T  by  the  jaws 
nel  continued 
and  on,  past 
strait. 

and  at  York 
aot  rest  again 

leir  tents,  and 
S^ful  word,  *  A 
3d  every  one 
il,  or  only  an 


Quickly  their  boats  were  laurt-hed  once  more ; 
but  there  was  little  wind,  and  their  progress  was  but 
slow.  But  no  disappointment  await«d  them  this 
time :  their  doubts  were  soon  at  an  end,  for  a  ship 
was  distinctly  seen.  Mure  than  that,  a  second  at 
the  same  time  appeared  from  the  north,  and  the 
crew  believed  that  they  were  seen. 

But  no;  on<  vessel,  at  least,  has  not  perceived 
them  :  for  she  spreading  her  sails,  and  is  soon  out 
of  sight. 

It  was  a  moment  almost  of  despair;  but  the 
captain  cheered  his  men  by  declaring,  what  he 
scarcely  believed,  that  they  were  now  nearing  the 
other. 

A  calm,  however,  providentially  saved  them : 
they  pushed  on  vigorously,  and  were  perceived. 

A  boat  was  lowered  from  the  vessel,  and  ap- 
proached Koss's  boat. 

'  Y^ju  liavt;  lost  your  vessel?'  said  the  officer  in 
command. 

*  Yes,'  replied  Ross ;  *  and  we  entreat  you  to 
receive  us  on  board.  What  is  the  name  of  your 
vessel  ?' 

*  The  "  Isabella,"  once  commanded  by  Captain 
Russ,'  answered  the  officer. 

*  I  am  that  Captain  Ross,'  replied  the  latter ; 
*  and  these  men  were  the  crew  of  the  "  Victory." ' 

'  Impossible  I'  returned  the  other ;  •  for  Ross  has 
been  dead  these  two  years  I ' 

We  need  not  enter  on  the  means  taken  to  con- 
vince him.     Suffice  it  to  say,  that  Ross  was  bOon  on 


i»e#^v?i  i-^4■--F'iB?aJV•«Y"l  '-^ 


224 


8IU  JOHN  BOSS. 


board  his  old  vesHel,  receiviug  tlie  enthusiastic  cheers 
of  the  whole  crow,  and  that  all  the  rescued  men  were 
treated  by  Captain  Humphreys  with  the  greatest 
kindness. 

The  scene  that  followed  could  only  l)e  described 
by  an  eye-witness;  so  we  will  not  attempt  it. 

Every  one  had  to  talk,  and  every  one  had  to 
listen.  There  was  news,  public  and  private,  to  be 
inquiied  into  and  communicated.  The  rescued  orew, 
too,  had  to  eat,  wash,  shave,  and  dress,  at  one  and 
the  same  time.  It  waa  a  scene  of  delightful  con- 
fusion. 

But  in  the  *  Victory's'  crew,  which  had  already 
been  diminished  by  some  deaths,  there  were  several 
sick  men.  These  were  overpowered  with  attention, 
for  every  one  was  anxious  to  serve  them. 

lo  t' ose  who  had  so  long  been  used  to  hardships, 
and  to  sleeping  on  rocks  and  snow,  the  ordinary 
comforts  of  life  had  lost  their  charm. 

They  could  not  sleep  in  beds;  and  even  the 
captain  states  that  he  was  obliged  to  throw 
himself  into  an  arm-chair,  in  order  to  get  any 
Bleep. 

On  the  19th  of  October  they  ai'rived  in  London, 
where  the  case  of  Ross  waa  brought  before  a  Com- 
mittee of  the  House  of  Commons,  who  immediately 
voted  him  a  sum  of  5000^.  to  make  up  for  his  losses, 
while  double  pay  was  given  to  the  men  up  to  the 
time  of  their  abandonment  of  the  ship,  and  full  pay 
after  tliat  time  till  their  arrival  in  England.  Good 
situations  in  the  dockyards  were  also  given  to  them. 


>«ll 


thusiaetic  cheerH 
pscued  men  were 
itU  the  greatest 

nly  lie  described 

attempt  it. 
'ery  one  had  to 
private,  to  be 
le  rescued  crew, 
Iress,  at  one  and 

delightful  cou- 
ch had  already 
?re  were  several 

with  attention, 
em. 

led  to  hardships, 
T,  the  ordinary 
n. 

;  and  even  the 
iged  to  throw 
ler  to  get  any 

ved  in  London, 
before  a  Com- 
bo immediately 
ip  for  his  losses, 
men  up  to  the 
p,  and  full  pay 
agland.  Good 
given  to  them. 


tl 


I 


ma 


^ 


mmmmmmmmm 


msmmmmim 


mmmmmmmm 


iioNoriw  <;()Ni'KUi{Ki». 


327 


('oniiuaiiiicr  Rohm  wiih  apimiiitc*!  to  tin;  coiniimiid  uf 
tho  •  Victory'  fur  ii  y«'ur,  that  he  mi^jlit  at  the  end 
of  that,  time  rrceivd  poHt-raiik ;  whiUs  iVIr.  Hooth, 
tlje  jHitroii  tit"  thi-  cxpciiition,  wm  crcatt'd  a  liiinnu-t. 
(■uptaiii  UoHM  iitltt)rwartlH  uhtu'iuHl  tUv  lionoiir  of 
kiiii<hthoo(I. 


, 

ii 


fci 


1 


li.^ 


1 1  ■'.  '■ 


■■  ■  K . 


228 


CHAPTER  XII. 

SIR  GEORGE  BACK'S  JOURNEY,  AND  MESSRS.  DBASE 
AND  SniiSON's  DISCOVERIES. 

We  have  seen  Captain  Ross  and  his  party  through 
ail  their  difficulties,  and  once  more  safely  at  home, 
receiving  the  congratulations  of  their  friends,  as 
well  as  the  rewards  and  honours  which  were  freely 
lavished  up  .n  them.  But  we  must  remember,  that 
from  the  time  that  they  entered  Regent's  Inlet  until 
the  'Isabella'  returned  with  her  double  crew,  the 
British  public  knew  nothing  either  of  their  proceed- 
ings or  their  fate.  Consequently,  almost  as  general 
a  state  of  excitement  prevailed  on  the  subject  as  has 
since  been  felt  about  Sir  John  Franklin. 

Ross's  was  not,  it  is  true,  a  Government  expedi- 
tion ;  but  for  all  that,  when  the  duty  of  seeding  an 
expedition  to  the  rescue  of  so  many  brave  English- 
men was  pressed  on  the  nation,  first  by  Dr.  Rich- 
ardson, and  then  by  numerous  other  persons  of  weight 
and  standing,  Government  was  by  no  means  back- 
ward to  lend  its  assistance.  A  committee  of  those 
most  deeply  interested  was  aoon  formed,  and  public 
meetings  on  the  subject  held.  Capttin  Ross's  friends 
were  willing  to  put  down  a  large  sum  towards  the 


IsfffeSili 


•liAf^Bmsxs"    'Mi^£SA::xSBM:ssA£ismiai^^i-.S3Ljs£xs£.'.x:^ 


CAPTAIN  BACK  VOLUNTEERS. 


229 


XII. 

AND  MESSRS.  DBASE 
COVERIES. 

nd  his  party  through 

more  safely  at  home, 
of  their  friends,  as 
)urs  which  were  freely 
must  remember,  that 
d  Regent's  Inlet  until 

her  double  crew,  the 
ither  of  their  proceed- 
atly,  almost  as  general 
1  ou  the  subject  as  has 

Franklin. 

1  Government  expedi- 
te duty  of  seeding  an 

many  brave  English- 
ion,  first  by  Dr.  Rich- 
other  persons  of  weight 
Eis  by  no  means  back- 

A  committee  of  those 
on  formed,  and  public 

Capttin  Ross's  friends 
arge  sum  towards  the 


necessary  expenses,  and  a  considerable  addition  was 
laised  by  subscription ;  while  the  Hudson's  Bay 
Company  most  readily  offered  supplies  of  provisions, 
and  every  assistance  in  their  power. 

But  all  this  would  have  been  very  useless,  had 
not  a  suitable  leader  early  volunteered  his  own  per- 
sonal services;  for,  indeed,  except  under  an  able 
man,  no  one  would  then  have  dared  to  risk  other 
lives  in  search  of  those  which,  for  aught  any  one 
could  tell,  had  been  already  sacrificed. 

An  able  man,  probably  the  ablest  that  could  be 
foi  d  for  this  service,  had,  however,  offered  himself 
as  soon  as  he  heard  of  the  anxiety  that  prevailed. 
This  was  no  other  than  Captain  Back,  once  tlie 
young  and  ardent  companion  of  Captain  Franklin, 
whc,  being  in  Italy  at  the  time,  immediately  has- 
tened home,  and  put  himself  into  communication 
with  the  leading  parties. 

His  offer  was  promptly  and  thankfully  accepted, 
and  a  scheme  rapidly  proposed  and  matured  for  an 
Arctic  land  expedition  to  the  shores  of  the  Polar 
Sea,  and  primarily  to  those  parts  which  it  was  known 
that  Captain  Ross  intended  to  visit. 

By  the  usual  track  of  fur-dealers,  and,  it  may  be 
added,  by  the  very  route  taken  by  Sir  Alexander 
Mackenzie,  the  party  were  to  proceed  as  rapidly  as 
possible  to  Norway  House,  on  Lake  Winnipeg,  from 
thence  on  to  Great  Slave  Lake,  somewhere  in  tlie 
neighbourhood  of  which  it  was  known  that  tliere 
was  a  river  called  by  the  Indians  Thlew-ee-choh- 
desseth,  or  Great  Fish  River — desseth  meaning 
river ;  and  this,  it  was  supposed,  emptied  itself  into 


S.^SS'^^S?^/" 


mmmismmmm 


mmmmmm'-- 


230 


silt  GEORGK  BACK. 


the  sea  somewhere  in  the  neighbourliood  of  Rosh's 
proposed  circuit  of  exploration. 

Back  had,  as  we  have  seen,  accompanied  Franklin, 
first  on  his  visit  to  the  Coppermine,  and  afterwards 
to  the  Mackenzie  River  ;  and  altliough  thirteen  years 
older  than  when  we  first  made  his  accpiaintauce,  he 
had  evidently  lost  nothing  of  his  enthusiastic  ardour, 
although  he  had  added  to  it  a  large  amount  of 
knowledge  and  experience. 

Mr.  Richard  King,  a  surgeon  and  naturalist,  was 
appointed  to  accompany  hipa,  and  three  men  only 
were  to  be  taken  from  England;  but  those  three 
had  all  been  out  with  Franklin. 

On  the  9th  of  p'ebruary,  1833,  they  started  from 
Liverpool  for  New  York,  which  they  at  length 
reached  safely,  though  after  an  unusually  tedious 
and  boisterous  passage.  It  will  be  remembered  that 
New  York  was  Franklin's  starting-place  on  the  last 
occasion,  as  P'ort  York,  on  Hudson's  Bay,  had  been 
the  first  time. 

Here  Back  was  received  with  every  demonstra- 
tion of  esteem,  and  of  sympathy  in  his  imdertaking; 
yet  he  delayed  not  a  moment,  but  at  once  proceeded 
by  steamboat  to  Albany,  and  from  thence  to  Montreal 
by  coaches  and  waggons,  eveiy  hour  being  precious. 

It  was  not  till  the  9th  of  April,  however,  that 
they  reached  Montreal,  where  the  Captain  received  a 
communication  from  Mr.  Keith,  the  principal  officer 
of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  at  La  Chine,  stating 
that  *  all  preparations  were  hurrying  on,  and  that 
provisions  were  being  hoarded  for  tliem  at  every 
station  in  their  route ;'  liut  he  added,  that  the  best 


rliood  of  Rosh'h 

lanied  Franklin, 
,  and  afterwards 
h  thirteen  years 
c(iuaintauce,  he 
iusiafitic  ardour, 
irge  amount  of 

[  naturalist,  was 
:hree  men  only 
)ut  those  three 

ley  started  from 
hey  at  length 
usually  tedious 
jmembered  that 
ace  on  the  last 
Bay,  had  been 

ery  demonstra- 
is  undertaking ; 
once  proceeded 
nee  to  Montreal 
being  precious. 
,  however,  that 
ptain  received  a 
principal  officer 
a  Chine,  stating 
g  on,  and  that 
tl)em  at  every 
d,  that  the  best 


PAUL,  THE  OLl>  IROQUOIS. 


231 


assistants  would  be  obtained  at  the  still  distant 
Norway  House,  among  the  '  old  winterers.'  All  was 
so  far  favourable;  but,  on  the  other  hand.  Back 
had  the  mortification  of  discovering,  during  this 
short  delay  at  Montreal,  that  two  of  his  three  men 
had  lost  heart,  imder  the  impression  that  the  sym- 
pathy which  was  everywhere  manifested  betokened 
coming  danger ;  and  it  was  with  difficulty  that  their 
services  could  be  retained, —  only,  in  fact,  by  sending 
them  on  at  once  to  begin  their  journey. 

Meantime,  four  fine  fellows  in  the  Koyal 
Artillery  there  Itad  volunteered  their  services ;  and 
Back,  who  was  now  particularly  glad  to  secure  any 
checks  on  his  own  refractory  men,  procured  their 
kave  of  absence ;  and  thus  reinforced,  they  embarked 
at  La  Chine  in  canoes,  on  the  noble  river  St. 
Lawrence,  down  which  they  shot  rapidly  under  the 
able  conduct  of  Paul,  an  old  Iroquois,  whose  know- 
ledge of  all  the  rapids  in  their  route  made  him  a 
valuable  servant,  in  spite  of  his  propensity  for  strong 
drink. 

At  a  short  distance  down  the  St.  liawrence  they 
turned  off  into  the  Ottawa,  one  of  its  branches ;  and 
afl»r  passing  the  rapid  St.  Anne,  encamped  on  an 
island  in  the  lake  of  the  Two  Mountains ;  beyond 
which,  by  permission,  they  paddled  through  the  go- 
vernment canal,  in  order  to  escape  the  dangerous 
rapid.  Long  Sault. 

At  the  next  portage  they  were  entertained  by  an 
old  dealer,  who  so  warmly  entered  into  their  under- 
taking that  he  said  it  was  with  difficulty  that  he 
could  restrain  himself  from  bearing  them  company. 


it- 


it 


i^^ 


tmrnmnm*' 


UO: 


ri 


^ 


382 


Sm  GEORGE  BACK. 


Through  Lake  Nipising  they  passed  into  one  of  the 
five  larger  ones, —  Lake  Huron,  and  so  into  Lake 
Superior,  whose  deep,  clear  waters,  and  abundant 
fish,  well  justify  its  name.  But  the  navigation  on  this 
lake  is  sometimes  very  f'ingerous,  on  account  of  the 
thick  fogs  which  suddenly  envelop  the  voyager ;  and 
in  one  of  these  they  were  entangled  for  a  time :  but 
after  a  good  many  narrow  escapes,  the  guide,  in  some 
incomprehensible  manner,  and  without  the  aid  of  the 
compass,  contrived  to  steer  them  through.  So,  on  the 
20th  of  May,  under  a  salute  of  guns,  the  party  landed 
at  Fort  William ;  at  which  place,  in  anticipation  of 
the  many  coming  portages,  they  exchanged  their 
larj'er  cnnvjes  for  others  that  could  be  more  easily 
carried ;  and  Captain  Back  made  a  regular  distribu- 
tion of  crews  and  *  pieces.' 

This  was  a  point  which  it  was  by  no  means  easy 
to  settle  to  the  satisfaction  of  the  voyageurs,  as  they 
well  knew,  by  painful  experience,  what  a  vast  dif- 
ference even  a  small  addition  to  the  weight  of  any 
package  might  make:  accordingly,  a  great  deal  of 
balancing  and  disputing  went  on,  as  the  Captain 
made  it  to  be  understood  that  nothing  then  settled 
could  afterwards  be  altered. 

Their  next  encampment  was  at  a  spot  of  extra- 
ordinary beauty  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Mountain 
P'alls,  which  are  but  little  smaller  than  those  of 
Wilberforce  or  Niagara,  and  even  superior  to  them 
in  respect  of  picturesque  effect. 

Just  beyond  this  they  received,  at  Savannah 
portage,  letters  from  England. 

On  the  river  of  the  same  name  they  obtained 


t4^«k. 


nto  one  of  the 
80  into  Lake 
and  abundant 
igation  on  this 
account  of  the 
)  voyager ;  and 
•r  a  time:  but 
guide,  in  some 
s  the  aid  of  the 
gh.  So,  on  the 
le  party  landed 
anticipation  of 
:changed  their 
be  more  easily 
»ular  distribu- 

no  means  eaay 
igeurSf&a  they 
at  a  vast  dif- 
weight  of  any 
,  great  deal  of 
.8  the  Captain 
g  then  settled 

spot  of  extra- 
i  of  Mountain 
than  those  of 
•erior  to  them 

at   Savannah 

they  obtained 


SAUTOUS  INDIANS. 


233 


from  some  Satitous  Indians  an  abundance  of  large 
sturgeon.  For  a  fish  weighing  fifty  pounds,  one  of 
the  men  only  paid  a  pint  of  peas ;  though  it  after- 
waids  appeared  that  the  Indians  expected  some  pay- 
ment beyond  that  which  they  named,  for  when 
Back's  party  were  taking  leave  they  were  suddenly 
assailed  by  a  volley  of  fishes'  heads  and  pieces  of  turf. 

These  Indians  dressed  their  hair  in  plaits,  orna- 
mented with  feathers,  and  wore  brass  rings  in  their 
ears  and  on  their  fingers ;  but  although  they  had 
evidently  been  in  the  habit  of  trading  with  white 
people,  they  went,  during  the  summer,  almost  naked. 

On  the  6th  of  June  they  had  reached  the  bottom 
of  Lake  Winnipeg ;  but  as  Governor  Simpson,  who 
was  to  meet  him  there,  had  not  yet  arrived.  Captain 
Back  was  obliged  to,  content  himself  with  making 
observations  for  the  dip  of  the  horizon  in  the  interval. 

On  the  lOth  Mr.  Simpson  came,  and  his  report 
of  the  assistance  to  be  provided  for  them  was  very 
encouraging.  In  paiticular, —  in  order  to  induce 
certain  desirable  persons  to  accompany  them,  they 
were  promised  early  promotion,  and  an  increase  of 
salary  at  once. 

But,  notwithstanding  all  that  could  be  done,  it 
was  evident  that  it  must  be  a  work  of  time  to  reach 
the  sea ;  and,  indeed,  few  of  the  party  even  hoped  to 
do  so  before  the  summer  of  1834.  The  Captain's  im- 
patience was,  however,  fully  equalled  by  that  of  the 
poor  voyageurs,  who,  in  addition  to  their  heavy 
work,  had  to  bear,  while  on  land,  the  dreadful  tor- 
ment caused   by  mosquitoes  and   sand-flies,  which 


^1 


i  i 
I'M 


iiU 


234 


8111  UEOnOK  HACK. 


came  in  such  myriiula  that  all  defence  was  injjws- 
sible:  and  sometimes  caused  the  blood  to  stream 
down  their  faces.  So  all  parties  were  anxious  to  get 
afloat  once  more ;  and  having  embarked  on  the  lake 
they  reached  its  opposite  end  on  the  17th,  and  were 
gladly  received  at  Norway  House,  where  they  suc- 
ceeded in  hiring  men,  though  at  a  very  high  rate 
of  wages. 

Here  the  real  journey  was  to  begin ;  and  here, 
therefore,  Captain  Back  entrusted  the  command  of 
the  boats,  containing  the  chief  part  of  the  heavy  lug- 
gage, to  Mr.  King,  and  prepared  to  go  on  himself,  as 
soon  as  he  had  completed  his  crew,  in  search  of  the 
Thlew-ee-Choh  river. 

On  the  28th  of  June  he  was  able  to  leave  Norway 
House,  proceeding  in  a  light  canoe,  and  with  a  heart 
'  full  of  hope  and  joy.'  In  his  journal  he  called  this 
'a  happy  day  for  him;'  'for  now,'  he  says,  'he  was 
in  a  fair  way  to  verify  the  anticipations  of  i^is 
frjends:'  and,  he  added,  that  his  spirits  were  raised 
to  a  more  than  ordinary  pitch  of  excitement. 

It  was  his  first  great  object  to  push  on  to  the 
Atbabaska  and  Slave  Lakes,  and  on  his  way  to  ascer- 
tain, if  possible,  the  direction  of  the  Thlew-ee-Choh 
river. 

A  strong  gale,  however,  obliged  him  to  land  and 
wait  awhile ;  arid  as  '  a  moody  fit  was  gathering,'  he 
took  his  gun  and  plunged  into  a  thick  wood,  until  the 
weather  became  calm.  However,  next  day  he  over- 
took Mr.  King's  boats  in  Sturgeon  River,  which  is 
one  continuous  rapid,  and  beheld  them  '  sometimes, 


encn  was  iiiipoH- 
blood  to  stream 
re  anxious  to  got 
rked  on  the  lake 
e  17th,  and  were 
where  they  suc- 
a  very  high  rate 

legin;  and  here, 
the  command  of 
of  the  lieavy  lug- 
go  on  himself,  as 
in  searcli  of  the 

to  leave  Norway 
and  with  a  heart 
nal  he  called  this 
he  says,  'he  was 
3ipations  of  i>i8 
jirits  were  raised 
iitement, 
push  on  to  the 
liis  way  to  ascer- 
3  Thlew-ee-Choh 

him  to  land  and 
18  gathering,'  he 
k  wood,  until  the 
ext  day  he  over- 
River,  which  is 
iem  *  sometimes, 


I'OUTAOK  LA  HOfHK. 


335 


unable  to  resist  the  impetuous  force  of  tiie  current, 
swept  back ;  at  others,  suspended  on  tiie  arched  back 
of  a  descending  wave,  struggling  and  labouring,  until 
again  in  the  shelter  of  a  friendly  eddy.'  They  were, 
however,  working  safely  and  steadily,  »?>  he  saw  at  a 
glance :  nevertheless,  his  own  frail  canoe,  witii  its 
motley  crew  of  English,  Canadians,  Metifs  (half- 
breeds),  and  Indians,  glided  quickly  past  them,  under 
the  wonderful  guidance  of  De  Charloit,  a  Metif 
steersman. 

On  the  21st  of  July,  after  passing  through  some 
small  lakes  and  portages,  they  arrived  wearied,  foot- 
sore, and  neai-ly  maddened  by  the  attacks  of  their 
tiny  persecutors,  at  Portage  ha  Roche,  a  high  ridge 
of  ground,  where,  after  labouring  tlirough  thick 
woods,  they  came  suddenly  out  on  to  a  wondrous 
prospect — alargeextentof  country,  all  in  its  summer 
dress,  lying  spread  out  below  them,  at  the  distance 
of  a  thousand  feet. 

Even  the  most  jaded  of  the  party  stood  here  a 
moment,  lost  in  silent  astonishment ;  but  Back  had 
passed  this  romantic  spot  twice  before,  and  all  his 
desire  now  seemed  to  be  to  get  on. 

On  the  borders  of  Little  Lake  they  were  abliged, 
however,  to  encamp ;  for  the  men  were  utterly  ex- 
hausted. Disposing  quickly  of  their  burdens  they 
threw  themselves  on  their  faces,  and  remained  for  an 
hour  perfectly  motionless.  Then  the  canoe  was  re- 
gummed,  and  all  embarked  again. 

At  Pine  Portage,  on  the  other  side,  they  obtained 
a  welcome  addition  to  their  number  in  the  person  of 


fj5 


r" 


236 


SIR  nEORGE  BACK, 


Mr.  M'Leod,  wliom  Governor  Siinp«on  hud  go  much 
deaired  to  Join  thera  ;  and  his  help  was  quickly  found 
to  be  moat  valuable,  as  they  soon  met  with  some 
Indians,  from  whose  old  chief,  'the  Camarade  de 
Mandeville,'  as  he  was  called,  they  hoped  to  obtain 
intelligence  respecting  their  route  to  the  river ;  and 
Mr.  M'Leod  soon  showed  them  that  he  knew  the 
way  to  manage  him. 

A  formal  meeting,  commenced  by  the  Indians' 
beloved  social  puff,  was  convened ;  and  patiently  did 
Mr.  M'Leod  listen  to  his  long  stories,  until  at  length 
the  Camarade  was  induced  to  sketch  the  position 
of  the  Thlew-ee-Choh,  and  the  river  which  he  called 
the  Teh-Ion,  or  Little  Fish  Rivor,  which  ran  parallel 
to  it,  and  by  his  account  was  far  safer. 

It  was  afterwards  found  all  along  the  route  that 
the  Indians  had  everywhere  the  same  abhorrence 
of  this  Thlew-ee-Choh ;  and  the  Camarade  at  length 
impatiently  declared,  that  '  if  the  Great  Chief  cv- 
sisted  in  going  by  it  he  must  travel  alone,  as  no 
Indians  would  accompany  him.' 

Afterwards  the  reports  of  other  Indians  were 
taken ;  and,  much  perplexed  by  their  conflicting  ac- 
counts, Back  determined  to  go  himself  in  search  of 
it :  so,  leaving  five  men  to  escort  Mr.  M'Leod  to  the 
east  part  of  Slave  Lake,  where  he  was  to  prepare 
them  winter  quarters,  and  saying  that  he  might  be 
expected  in  September,  he  embarked  once  more  on 
the  lake  with  four  men,  after  having  left  written  di- 
rections fi,r  Mr.  King,  to  be  delivered  to  him  when 
he  should  come  up  with  the  boats.  ^ 


va 


son  had  so  much 
as  quickly  found 
met  with  some 
he  Camarade  de 
hoped  to  obtain 
i  the  river  ;  and 
it   he  knew  the 

by  the  Indians' 
nd  patiently  did 
i,  until  at  length 
ch  the  position 
which  he  called 
lich  ran  parallel 
:r. 

g  the  route  that 
ame  abhorrence 
larade  at  Ipngth 
rreat  Chief  ^ci'- 
'el  alone,  as  no 

r  Indians  were 
•  conflicting  ac- 
lelf  in  search  of 
.  M'Leod  to  the 
was  to  prepare 
at  he  might  be 
i  once  more  on 
left  written  di- 
}d  to  him  when 


PORTAGE  ON  IIOAHFROST  lUVER. 


287 


It  was  now  the  Utli  of  August,  and  on  the  19th, 
having  passed  under  mountain  heights  of  Alpine 
(grandeur,  they  reached  the  entrance  of  the  stsep 
and  rocky  Hoarfrost  Kiver;  and  after  a  most  fa- 
tiguing journey  of  a  week,  through  several   little 


I*; 


Portnge  on  HoarfVoat  River. 


lakes  and  over  many  portages,  they  landed ;  and,  on 
ascending  a  very  high  hill.  Captain  Back  saw  before 
him  an  immense  expanse  of  water,  in  which  were 
many  small  islands,  and  which  he  named  Aylmer 
Lake,  after  the  Governor-General  of  Canada. 


-.-tlWWWWtflWWiftrWilwaWIIIWMIiWW 


238 


HIR  OEOI((JK  HACK. 


Several  paitioH  of  IndiunB  h;ul  liofti  panwod  in  the 
latter  part  of  tlie  w,'>,y,  and  soiue  iiud  boi-n  induced 
to  accompany  (liom;  so  from  thin  lake  Maiifelity, 
the  iuterprt'ter,  with  throe  othor  Indians,  wore  sent 
on  t«)  look  for  the  river,  Iniing  victualled  for  throe 
days ;  but  meantime  Jiack  himself  accidentally  dis- 
covered its  source;  on  which,  (hrowinjf  himself  on 
the  ground,  he  says  lie  rapturously  drank  a  hearty 
draught  of  its  clear  waters. 

The  men  returned  scon  after  laden  witli  game, 
i«nd  having  found  the  river ;  so  this  event  wa«  ctle- 
brat(  d  by  a  draught  of  grog  divide  1  amongst  the  crew. 

The  Thlew-t'p-Choh  has  since  received  the  name 
of  Back's  River,  b>  which  it  is  now  known. 

On  the  Slat  of  Aa^  tst  they  embarked  on  it,  and 
continued  to  meet,  with  many  Indians  as  they  pro- 
ceeded up  its  courKc;  among  whom  were  two  of 
these  whom  Captain  Back  had  formerly  known,  and 
wiiO  belonged  to  his  old  friend  Akaitoho's  party. 

They  soon  came  to  a  series  of  such  rapids  as  fully 
justifled  the  Indians'  dread,  and  which  their  canoe 
was  too  weak  to  run,  in  spite  of  all  Cliarloit's  skilful 
management;  so  they  were,  therefore,  obliged  to 
return  to  their  encampment,  having,  indeed,  been 
compelled  to  abandon  the  canoe,  and  finish  their 
joiMiey  on  foot. 

They  met  Mr.  M'Leod  at  the  junction  of  a  small 
river  with  Great  Slave  Lake,  and  found  that  their 
winter  house,  Fort  Reliance,  was  almost  complete; 
but  that,  unhappily,  it  was  constantly  surrounded, 
and  the  hall  almost  filled,  with  crowds  of  starving 


Ci-^. 


imm^BPKsa 


Ol'I'ORTl'NK  ARRIVAL  OF  AKAITCIIO. 


230 


if'ti  paHWDfl  in  the 
k1  boi-n  induced 
lake  Madfelify, 
diann,  were  sent 
nailed  for  throe 
iccidentttlly  dis- 
s'inp'  himself  on 
drank  a  hearty 

iden  witli  game, 
event  wa«  c»le- 
mongst  the  crew. 
3eived  the  name 
tnown. 

irked  on  it,  and 
iiH  as  they  pro- 
ra  were  two  of 
3rl;'  known,  and 
[iho's  l)arty. 
1  rapids  as  fully 
lich  their  canoe 
Iharloit's  skilful 
ore,  obliged  to 
g,  indeed,  been 
.nd   finish  their 

ction  of  a  small 
Dund  that  their 
most  complete; 
tly  surrounded, 
wds  of  starving 


Indians.  Their  own  stock  of  provisions  was  by  no 
moans  too  large,  and  they  had  wished  to  reserve  tho 
pemmicanand  dri.sd  meats  till  they  reached  the  sea; 
but  Captain  Back  was  not  the  man  to  turn  a  deaf 
ear  to  the  entreaties  of  hungry  people,  and  ae  could 
never  resist  the  cry  of  a  c'  ild  for  food. 

The  adults,  it  is  true,  rarely  complained,  though 
worn  to  mere  skeletons ;  btit,  nevertheless,  a  strong 
feeling  took  possession  of  them  that  the  various  ob- 
servations made  with  the  scientific  instruments  were 
for  the  purpose  of  •  raising  the  Devil,'  and  that  this 
wa«  the  real  cause  of  the  scarcity :  so  that  it  was  al- 
most essential  to  mollify  them  with  gifts. 

In  the  end  of  November  4k»>itvho  himself 
very  opportunely  arrived,  and  brought  with  hi..i 
a  little  meat.  This  curious  old  man,  Indian-like, 
did  not  ask  after  either  Captain  Franklin  or  Dr. 
Richaidsor,  though  he  seemed  pleased  to  hear  about 
them,  and  to  receive  little  remembrances  from  them. 
He  was  a  great  assistance  to  the  party,  as  liis  influ- 
ence helped  to  maintain  order ;  and  with  him  some 
of  the  party  were  at  last  persuaded  to  leave  the  fort, 
while  others  went  out  to  fish  at  a  lake,  of  which  one 
of  his  Indians  had  told  them.  De  Charloit  and  some 
of  the  men  were  also  now  discharged,  according  to 
agreement ;  besides  it  being  important  to  save  the 
pemmican,  they  were  glad  to  reduce  the  party. 

It  waa  a  fearful  winter ;  yet  but  for  Akaitcho's 
firm  friendship  things  would  have  been  far  worse. 
He  regularly  st^irted  every  morning  on  a  hunt,  and, 
being  an  excellent  huntsman,  often  procured  sup- 


i.'s 


.0=' 


240 


HiR  (JEonoK  nArK. 


<**^" 


j)li»'H.  ytill,  with  (ivory  allovitttion,  it  wjwi  n  drcadftil 
time.  A  (loe|i  rncluucholy  fixed  itHelf  on  the  mind, 
evMi  of  Back  hiniHflf,  in  H])ite  of  all  hin  effortH  to 
cheer  othtTM.  TIuh  wa«  eupccially  tho  case  when, 
early  in  April,  he  learnt  that  AiigUKtiis,  his  old  and 
faithful  Ewjiiimaux  interpreter,  had  been  on  hi8  way 
to  jrin  him,  hut  that  it  wbh  apprehendwi  that  he  had 
been  starved  to  death  on  Iuh  road ;  for  this  intelli- 
gent young  man  imd  come  to  be  regarded  quite  aa 
a  friend. 

A  sharp  knock  at  the  door  on  the  2.'ird  of  April, 
the  anniverBary  of  their  departure  from  La  Chine, 
terminated  thin  moody  state.  The  knock  was  in- 
stantly follow<;d  by  the  entrance  of  the  man  without, 
who,  thrusting  an  English  despatch  into  the  Captain's 
hand,  exclaimed, — 

•  He  is  returned,  sir  I ' 

'Whatl  Augustus?  Thank  God!'  answered 
Back. 

'  Captain  Ross,  sir !  Captain  Ross  is  returned ! ' 
replied  the  man. 

They  could  scarcely  believe  the  good  news,  but 
two  extracts  from  English  papers  confirmed  the 
despatch  now  hastily  read ;  and,  '  in  the  fulness  of 
their  hearts,  they  aasembled  together,  and  humbly 
offered  up  their  thanks  to  God'  for  *  so  wonderful 
a  preservation.' 

The  whole  day  was  passed  in  a  state  of  feverish 
excitement,  a  treat  given  to  the  men,  and  the  joyful 
occasion  turned  into  a  festival. 

Free,  therefore,  from  this  great  anxiety,  Back 


^..i^.„::^...^^„,„Y'riii^\r~ 


it  WM  a  (irondt'ul 
elf  on  the  mind, 
iill  hiri  oiTortM  to 

tlio  fH8e  when, 
itiiH,  hJH  old  and 
been  on  liio  way 
iidfHl  ihut  lie  had 

for  thJH  intelli- 
egarded  quite  an 

e  23rd  of  April, 
from  La  Chine, 
knock  was  in- 
he  man  without, 
tito  the  Captain'* 


Jod !'    answered 

SB  is  returned!' 

good  news,  but 

confirmed  the 

n  the  fulness  of 

er,  and  humbly 

r  •  so  wonderful 

state  of  feverish 
I,  and  the  joyful 

;  anxiety,  Back 


back's  RIVKn. 


241 


prepared,  as  early  as  posHible,  to  pumue  the  othor 
object  of  his  journoy;  and  on  tho  Ist  of  June,  the 
weather  being  tlien  very  Hultry,  th«'y  Irft,  Fort  Re- 
liance—  not,  however,  in  n»  good  Hpirits  ii»  might  be 
eKpooted,  for  the  news  of  t lie  melancholy  ond  of  poor 
Augustus  had  just  ))een  contirmed,  while  there  wus 
reason  to  fear  that  Williamson,  one  of  the  artillery- 
men, had  perished  on  his  way  home  with  the  de- 
spatches with  which  he  had  been  entrusted. 

On  the  2Hth  their  boat  was  launcluMJ  on  Hack's 
River ;  and  soon  after  they  had  to  take  Itiivo  of  their 
excellent  friends,  Mr.  M'Leod  and  the  chief  Akait- 
cho.  The  former,  besides  being  a  very  good  friend 
in  other  ways,  was  a  first-rate  hunter,  and  had  ))een 
of  the  greatest  service  to  the  party,  which  he  pro- 
mised to  rejoin  in  September. 

The  voyage  down  this  rivor  was,  indeed,  difficult. 
For  a  time  the  ice  impeded  their  progress ;  but  on 
its  breaking  up  they  entered  on  a  course  of  rapids, 
lakes,  and  cascades,  such  as  they  had  never  seen  be- 
fore. A  less  determined  man  would,  probably,  never 
have  reached  the  sea ;  but  Back  had  resolved  to  do 
so,  and  nothing  short  of  absolute  impossibility  could 
ever  stop  him. 

He  had  imagined  that  the  mouth  of  the  river 
would  be  found  in  Bathurst's  Inlet;  and,  therefore, 
its  turnings  and  twistings,  eastward  and  southward, 
rendered  him  almost  frantic  with  impatience.  The 
roar  of  the  water  of  some  of  the  cascades  could  be 
heard  a  mile  off;  and  not  a  single  tree  adorned 
its  course  for  more  than  five  hundred  miles. 

R 


fc  * 


* 

\ 


itma^mmttam 


iiMW«»MwiiWPiiiin»niiwitriii 


tmemm 


mmmm^' 


242 


SIR  GEORGE  BACK. 


Pelly,  Garry,  and  MacDougal  lakes  being  passed 
and  named,  they  came  lastly  to  Lake  Franklin, 
where  they  met  with  some  very  friendly  Esquimaux, 
who  assisted  the  crew  over  the  last  and  most  difficult 
portage ;  and  thus  they  reached  Point  Victoria,  and 


Eiqulmauz  at  the  Portage. 

found  themselves  on  the  sea-coast,  no  very  great  dis- 
tance from  the  farthest  points  attained  by  Sir  James 
Eoss. 

Naming  the  various  points  of  the   western  pen- 
insula of  Adelaide,  Back  attempted,  according  to 


'-""  -■  -'-"'''tTi"1i'fiit1i'ir 


rmnmntiCTafiQutia 


«wi». 


LCK. 

jal  lakes  being  passed 
r  to  Lake  Franklin, 
friendly  Esquimaux, 
[ast  and  most  difficult 
1  Point  Victoria,  and 


at,  no  very  great  dis- 
ttained  by  Sir  James 

of  the  western  pen- 
mpted,  a'jcording  to 


RAISING  THE  BRITISH  FLAG. 

his  instructions,  to  reach  the  Point  Tumagain  of 
Franklin ;  but  the  state  of  the  ice  rendered  this  im- 
practicable, even  to  him.  A  land  journey  along  the 
coast  was  next  planned  and  attempted  ;  but  as  they 
sank  knee-deep  at  every  step,  and  had  scarcely  any 
water  to  drink,  this  idea  also  had  to  be  rt'linquished. 
After  raising  and  saluting  the  British  flag,  they  re- 
I  turned,  therefore,  by  the  former  route ;  that  is,  up 
the  same  wild  and  turbulent  nver. 

Faithful  to  his  promise,  Mr.  M'Leod  met  him 
at  Musk-Ox  Lake;  and  during  the  ensuing  winter 
Akaitcho  proved  himself,  as  of  old,  a  most  excellent 
ally. 

An  hour  every  other  night  was  devoted  to  the 
instruction  of  the  men,  and  Sunday  was  always  a 
day  of  rest.  They  were  not  lonely,  having  again 
plenty  of  Indian  society:  nevertheless,  the  early 
arrival  of  the  packet  from  England  was  a  great  treat, 
and  with  the  first  breaking  up  of  the  cold  all  were 
eager  to  get  away. 

Mr.  King  was  directed  to  proceed  with  the  Eu- 
ropeans to  York  Factory,  at  the  proper  season ;  and 
Captain  Back  himself,  being  obliged  to  return  through 
Canada,  left  Fort  Reliance  on  the  2l8t  of  March,  and 
reached  Norway  House  by  the  end  of  June. 

As  he  proceeded  exactly  by  the  old  route,  no- 
thing worthy  of  note  occurred  on  this  homeward 
journey,  except  a  visit  which  he  paid  at  one  place 
to  a  mission  station  amongst  the  Indians,  whidi  ap- 
pears to  hdve  excited  great  interest  in  his  mind. 

•  Two  hundred  converts,'  he  writes,  '  had  been 


244 


SIR  OEOROE  BACK. 


gathered  into  the  Church  by  the  worthy  missionary 
during  the  space  of  only  two  years ; '  and  it  is  impos- 
sible to  help  regretting  that  this  visit  had  not  been 
paid  on  his  journey  out.  For  if  all  Christian  men,  and 
some  of  these  Arctic  officers  we  believe  to  have  been 
really  such  —  if  all  these,  who  were  thus  compelled 
to  pass  whole  months  in  the  company  of  Indians  and 
Esquimaux,  had  but  set  themselves  heartily  to  the 
work  of  preaching  the  Gospel  among  them,  what 
grand  results  might  not  have  been  the  fruit  of  the 
Arctic  voyages ! 

Captain  Back  bad  been  absent  from  England,  as 
we  have  seen,  for  two  years ;  yet  his  ardour  was  not 
abated,  and  he  was  quite  ready  for  any  other  reason- 
able expedition  that  might  be  proposed. 

One  was  suggecited  almost  immediately  by  the 
Royal  Geographical  Society,  and  the  idea  adopted 
by  the  Admiralty. 

Its  object  was  to  sail  direct  to  Wager  River  or 
Repulse  Bay,  and  from  thence  to  proceed,  by  means 
of  several  land  parties,  to  examine  the  bottom  of 
Prince  Regent's  Inlet,  the  coast  towards  Fury  and 
Hecla  Strait,  and  that  to  the  westward  as  far  as 
Cape  Turnagain. 

And  their  L.)rd8hips  of  the  Admiralty,  in  their 
instructions,  gave  it  as  their  decided  opinion,  that  all 
this  might  be  done  in  one  season ;  and  *  that  this 
Arctic  expedition  might  be  distinguished  from  all 
others,  by  the  promptness  of  its  execution,  and  by 
escaping  the  gloomy  and  unprofitable  waste  of  eight 
months'  detention.' 


WEDGED  UP  IN  THE  ICE. 


245 


i{\'i 


•thy  missionary 
knd  it  is  impus- 
it  had  not  been 
istian  raen,  and 
e  to  have  been 
thus  compelled 
of  Indians  and 
heartily  to  the 
ig  them,  what 
the  fruit  of  the 

tm  England,  as 

ardour  was  not 

y  other  reason- 

d. 

diately  by  the 

s  idea  adopted 

ager  River  or 
;eed,  by  means 
the  bottom  of 
irds  Fury  and 
irard  as  far  as 

iralty,  in  their 
pinion,  that  all 
ind  *  that  this 
shed  from  all 
;ution,  and  by 
waste  of  eight 


No  doubt,  if  the  thing  could  have  been  done,  Back 
was  just  the  man  to  do  it :  but  it  seems  to  be  of  very 
little  use  to  make  plans  regarding  time  for  people 
who  are  destined  to  work  in  these  icy  seas.  The  ex- 
pedition was  certainly  distinguished  from  all  others ; 
but  not  in  the  way  that  these  gentlemen  expected. 

It  started  in  June,  1836,  and  returned  not  until 
the  autumn  of  1837 ;  and  then  without  having  ac- 
complished anything! 

For  nine  whole  months  were  they  wedged  up  in 
the  ice ;  not,  however,  in  any  chosen  harbour,  but  on 
a  floating  mass  of  ice,  driven  about  at  the  mercy 
of  the  elements,  and  without  being  able  to  control 
the  ship  in  the  slightest  degree.  Indeed,  for  four 
months  of  the  time  they  were  fixed  in  a  sort  of  icy 
cradle.  Yet  no  blame  seems  to  have  been  attached 
to  any  one ;  while  *  the  tranquillity  and  constant 
good-humour  of  Captain  Back,  and  the  unremitting 
exertions  of  Lieutenant  Smyth,'  are  spoken  of  by 
Sir  J.  Barrow  as  *  above  all  praise.' 

Captain  Back  had  been  told  that  he  might  choose 
between  Frozen  Strait  and  the  Welcome  in  pro- 
ceeding to  the  point  at  which  his  first  sea-voyage 
was  to  terminate;  and  he  chbse  the  former,  because 
Parry  had  been  so  successful  there :  while  from  the 
Welcome  Captain  Lyon  had  escaped  with  difficulty 
and  danger. 

On  entering  Davis's  Strait  they  saw  an  enormous 
iceberg,  of  300  feet  high ;  and  shortly  after  beheld  the 
fall  and  formation  of  another.  This  was  near  Savage 
Islands,  in  the  neighbourhood  of  which  they  were 


-'..aMiwiwaMMSiffiiaKio 


246 


SIR  GEORGE  BACK. 


hailed  by  a  fleet  of  kajaks  and  oomiaks,  with  the  cry 
of  'Teyma — Peace;'  and  a  curious  kind  of  barter 
was  opened.  Some  of  the  native  articles  proved, 
however,  more  unsaleable  than  their  owners  ex- 
pected :  as,  for  instance,  children  offered  in  exchange 
for  a  few  needles,  by  their  own  mothers;  and  a 
young  woman's  hair  generously  offered  by  its  possessor 
to  a  rather  bald  officer,  at  the  low  price  of  a  curtain 
ring  I 

Past  Salisbury  and  Nottingham  Isles  they  sailed 
smoothly  and  easily ;  and  now,  keeping  to  his  reso- 
lution. Captain  Back  steered  to  the  north  of  the 
large  one,  known  as  Southampton  Island;  to  the 
north  of  which  was  Middleton's  Frozen  Strait  and 
Repulse  Bay,  into  which,  like  Parry,  he  hoped  to 
sail  easily. 

But  Middleton's  difficulties  were  small  compared 
^ith  the  troubles  that  awaited  Captain  Back;  for, 
by  the  5th  of  September,  they  were  firmly  fixed  in 
the  ice:  the  weather  was  foggy,  and  tlie  compasses 
not  to  be  trusted. 

Here,  therefore,  they  wer^  'thumped  about 
amidst  the  hummocks  of  ice,  and  severely  nipped, 
apparently  only  about  four  miles  from  land;  but 
closely  blocked  in  by  packed  ice,  and  not  a  pool  of 
water  visit  le  anywhere.' 

*  To  the  mercy  of  Providence  alone,'  Back  says, 
•  could  they  look  for  rescue  from  their  perilous  situa- 
tion ; '  and  he  adds,  *  that  none  but  they  who  have 
experienced  it  can  judge  of  the  weariness  of  heart, 
the  blank  of  feeling,  the  sickliness  of  taste,  which 


^r^-w:'^^!^Vf^^-'-9 1.?*  ■■■<,''.■  's*fr^ 


4« 
.1^ 


FEARFUL  DANOFRS. 


247 


ks,  with  the  cry 
kind  of  barter 
articles  proved, 
eir  owners  ex- 
red  in  exchange 
lothers ;  and  a 
I  by  its  possessor 
ice  of  a  curtain 

sles  they  sailed 
ing  to  his  reso- 
e  north  of  the 
Island;  to  the 
>zen  Strait  and 
y,  he  hoped  to 

small  compared 

ain  Back;  for, 

firmly  fixed  in 

the  compasses 

humped  about 
jverely  nipped, 
rom  land;  but 
1  not  a  pool  of 

ne,'  Back  says, 

perilous  situa- 

they  who  have 

'iness  of  heart, 

of  taste,  which 


get  the  better  of  the  whole  man,  under  circumstances 
such  as  these.' 

All  September  were  they  thus  whirled  about  in 
the  vicinity  of  old  Baffin's  Cape  Comfort,  and  by  the 
end  of  it  the  captain  and  all  the  officers  had  come 
to  the  conclusion  that  nothing  more  could  be  at- 
tempted in  that  direction.  Seeing,  then,  no  prospect 
of  escape  for  months  to.  come,  they  were  about  to  cut 
a  dock  for  the  ship,  when  suddenly  a  violent  commo- 
tion took  place  in  the  ice ;  one  large  mass  coming 
in  contact  with  a  smaller  one,  and  crushing  it  to 
powder,  while  the  ship  was  driven  about  in  immi- 
nent danger. 

'  Thus,'  says  Back,  '  ended  a  month  of  vexation, 
disappointment,  and  anxiety ;  to  me  personally,  more 
distressing  and  intolerable  than  the  worst  pressure 
of  the  worst  evils  which  had  befallen  me  in  any 
expedition.' 

This  was  strong  language  for  one  who  had  been 
in  the  navy  since  he  was  twelve  years  old ;  who  had 
seen  mucb  service  in  the  Peninsular  War;  been 
taken  prisoner;  had  accompanied  Franklin  on  his 
•  '  A-'tic  land  journeys,  and  made  one  himself: 
,; :«;  consider  his  position  we  shall,  perhaps, 

i^Ekn^':    vi-:    him. 

lu  Irst  place,  there  was  the  hourly  danger  of 
wreck  i.  destruction  from  the  violent  collision  of 
the  ship  with  the  ice;  then  the  crew  themselves  had 
little  or  no  work,  and  were  a  constant  source  of 
anxiety.  There  were  only  a  few  '  men-of-war  men ' 
among  them,  he  tells  ua  :  *  the  rest  were  chiefly  un- 


.'mitiesssmmiiesm 


BswnaBiiHte 


248 


SIR  Giatjitur  BACK. 


disciplined  whale-fishermen,  or  colliers;  ard  instead 
of  the  hearty  good-will,  sociability,  and  above-board 
manner  of  regular  tars,  there  prevailed  a  spirit  of 
suspicion,  which  was  anything  but  conducive  to 
comfort  and  quiet.' 

One  man  died,  and  sickness  prevailed  to  some 
extent :  while  the  cold  was  intense. 

The  officers,  however,  did  their  best  both  to 
amuse  and  instruct  the  crew;  and  their  eflforta  seem 
to  have  been  not  altogether  unavailing. 

But  still  more  alarming  circumstances  were  yet 
to  take  place. 

In  February  an  opening  in  the  floe  was  noticed ; 
and  soon  the  crack  widened  and  lengthened  until 
it  passed  directly  through  the  centre  on  which  the 
ship  stood. 

A  hoarse,  rushing  sound  waa  heard ;  the  ship 
groaned  and  strained;  and  the  crashing,  grinding, 
and  rushing  noises  underneath  were  appalling.  At 
length  all  communication  with  the  shore  was  cut  oflf 
by  the  breaking  up  of  the  floes  into  masses;  and 
though  the  ship  was  now  in  the  water,  she  could  not 
move. 

The  ice  formed  again,  however,  under  the  vessel, 
and  other  similar  convulsions  took  place;  so  that  it 
seemed  often  little  short  of  a  miracle  that  the  ship 
could  live. 

Sometimes  enormous  waves  of  ice,  like  the  side 
of  a  house,  were  dnshei'  against  the  vessel ;  and  still, 
even  in  June,  it  stuck  to  the  ship  in  such  a  manner 
that  she  seemed  in  a  mould. 


HWIMItWWIM»JMW*)l»lllt.lWlliailllBI»- 


RETURN  HOME. 


249 


ers ;  ard  instead 
md  above-board 
liled  a  spirit  of 
it  conducive  to 

evailed  to  some 

r  best  both  to 

teir  efforts  seem 

ling. 

itances  were  yet 

oe  was  noticed ; 
^ngthened  until 
e  on  which  the 

eard;  the  ship 
hing,  grinding, 
appalling.  At 
lore  was  cut  off 
to  masses;  and 
',  she  could  not 

nder  the  vessel, 
•lace ;  so  that  it 
I  that  the  ship 

3,  like  the  side 
issel ;  and  still, 
such  a  manner 


Early  in  July  the  crew  began  to  work  at  cutting 
this  away,  and  making  a  trench ;  and  j  the  1 1th, 
when  her  deliverance  was  effected,  Back  was  just  in 
the  act  of  descending  to  his  cabin,  when  a '  loud  rum- 
bling noise  announced  that  she  had  broken  her  icy 
bounds,  and  was  sliding  gently  down  into  her  own 
element.'  '  It  was  a  sight,'  he  says,  *  not  to  be  for- 
gotten,' and  hastily  did  he  run  on  deck  to  join  in  the 
general  cheers. 

Still,  there  ehe  lay  for  several  days  en  her  beam- 
ends,  so  that  no  one  could  walk  on  deck  without 
holding  on  to  the  ropes.  Quite  suddenly,  at  last, 
she  righted ;  and  a  scene  followed  which  no  one  who 
saw  it  could  ever  forget. 

Nothing  remained  then  but  to  make  the  best  of 
the  way  home  with  the  poor  battered  vessel,  which 
was  in  such  a  crazy  condition  that,  had  not  a  favour- 
able wind  blown  them  quickly  to  their  native  shores, 
the  '  Terror'  must  have  foundered  before  she  reached 
them. 

So  ended  this  extraordinary  voyage,  and  Captain 
Back  soon  after  was  rewarded  for  all  his  troubles  by 
the  honour  of  knighthood ;  which,  notwithstanding 
that  this  voyage  waf.  an  utterly  fruitless  one,  no  man 
ever  more  entirely  merited. 

He  was  not  on  this  occasion  able  to  contribute 
anything  towards  the  completion  of  the  survey  of 
this  northern  coast ;  but  that  work  was  finished  du- 
ring the  next  two  years  by  two  gentlemen  belonging 
to  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  Mr.  Dease  and  Mr. 
Simpson. 


iHBlM>9B!limillll»l|l  -• 


250 


MESSRS.  DKASK  AND  SIMPSON. 


In  1837  they  traced  the  whole  space  left  between 
the  utmost  point  westward  attained  by  P'rankiin  on 
hiH  second  journey,  and  that  to  which  the  boat  sent 
round  Icy  Cape  to  meet  him  by  Captain  Beechey  of 
the  'Blosson  '  had  ;.'^  ned,  a  distance  of  160  miles. 
Encoura^/,  si  %  a.^Bucoess,  they  started  again 
next  year  froi..  " ,.»!  (  :; :«5denceon  Great  Bear  Lake, 
and  reaching  tfc  .^   Tease's  River,  encamped  at 

the  mouth  of  the  Ooppe.  ^,  whence,  after  being 
imprisoned  by  the  ice  for  some  days,  tliey  succeeded 
in  pursuing  their  course  westward  past  Cape  Barrow, 
round  Arctic  Sound,  for  they  could  not  cross  its 
opening;  past  Barry  Isles  and  Cape  Flinders,  just 
beyond  Franklin's  furthest  encampment  eastward, 
where,  for  twenty-two  days,  they  were  utterly  blocked, 
up  by  the  ice. 

Determined,  however,  not  to  go  back,  and,  in 
fact,  unable  to  do  so,  Mr.  Simpson  started  oflF  with 
an  exploring  party  on  .foot,  with  a  wooden-framed 
canvas  canoe  and  tent,  which  they  carried  with  them, 
in  addition  to  their  provisions. 

Thus  they  quickly  reached  Cape  Franklin  ;  and, 
in  three  days  after,  on  ascending  some  high  ground, 
Mr.  Simpson  suddenly  came  in  sight  of  the  welcome 
view  of  an  open  ocean  rolling  beneath  his  feet.  He 
had  reached,  in  fact,  to  the  further  extremity  of 
Dease's  Strait,  and  stood  on  a  headland,  to  which  he 
gave  the  name  of  Cape  Alexander;  while  he  named 
the  whole  country  northward  Victoria  Land. 

But  a  short  distance,  comparatively  speaking, 
now  remained  between  that  point  and  t'he  late  dis- 


limjuiWjlUr 


PwwwwsswiwjrrT'^jrwTrcBsr 


S5.W.V«J(«(BI1  ksib™ 


'SOX. 

pace  left  between 
(1  by  PVankiin  on 
lich  the  boat  sent 
ptain  Beechey  of 
ince  of  160  mileH. 
ley  started  again 
Great  Bear  Lake, 
ver,  encamped  at 
ence,  after  being 

8,  tliey  succeeded 
►aat  Cape  Barrow, 
lid  not  cross  its 
pe  Flinders,  just 
pment  eastward, 
re  utterly  blocked. 

go  back,  and,  in 
1  started  off  with 

9.  wooden-framed 
arried  with  them, 

3  Franklin ;  and, 
ne  high  ground, 
t  of  the  welcome 
th  his  feet.  He 
ler  extremity  of 
and,  to  which  he 
while  he  named 
)ria  Land, 
tively  speaking, 
ind  tlie  late  dis- 


WONDERFUI  .SUCCESSES. 


m 


coverier.  of  Captain  Back  and  Captain  James  Rosh  ; 
but  this  line  of  coast  had  to  be  left  for  a  future 
voyage,  as  the  season  was  far  advanced,  and  some  of 
the  men  had  fallen  lame. 

The  next  season  happened  to  be  a  favourable 
one,  so  that  they  reached  Cape  Alexander  a  month 
earlier  than  in  1838,  and  by  the  11th  of  August 
reached  Simpson's  Strait ;  and,  passing  Points  Kich- 
ardson  "and  Ogle,  came,  on  the  16th,  to  Montreal 
Island,  where  a  cache  of  pemmican,  left  by  Sir 
George  Back  five  years  before,  was  found. 

Encouraged  by  this  wonderful  success,  the  two 
enterprising  explorers  determined  to  ascertain  still 
more  about  the  country  beyond.  So  round  the  pen- 
insula of  Adelaide  they  sailed,  past  Mctoria  Head- 
land, which  they  knew  at  once  from  Back's  drawing, 
and  so,  crossing  a  fine  bay,  ran  about  forty  miles  to 
the  north-east,  till  they  came  in  sight  of  what  was 
probably  a  part  of  Boothia. 

The  wind  changed  then,  so  they  were  forced  to 
return.  By  the  24th  of  September  they  once  more 
reached  Fort  Confidence,  after  a  voyage  along  this 
northern  coast,  with  which  no  previous  one  can  be 
compared  in  length,  having'  bravely  battled  with 
dangers,  and  successfully  overcome  difficulties,  of 
which  it  is  impossible  for  those  who  have  not  expe- 
rienced similar  ones  to  form  any  idea. 


1 

1 


>.*i 


HUH 


w«69iiMigaSiiBiigBjff»wr-jWi;« 


?*r»SBSlll!H,3t^?V«X«|P'*' 


259 


CHAPTER  XIII. 

4 

SIR  JOHN  franklin's  I  A.ST  VOYAGE,  AND  SOME  OF  THE 
EXPEDITIONS  SENT  IN  SEARCH  OF  HIM. 

Captain  Back's  melancholy  voyage  in  1836  seems 
to  have  had  the  affect  of  somewhat  damping  the 
courage  of  our  countrymen ;  for  it  was  not  until 
eight  years  later  that  another  Arctic  expedition  was 
proposed. 

Meantime,  however,  the  'Terror'  had  been  put 
into  thorough  repair,  and  in  company  with  the 
♦  Erebus '  had  been  again  encountering  ice  and  storms 
in  Antarctic  regions,  under  the  commarid  of  Sir 
James  Ross ;  while  the  successes  of  Messrs.  Deaso 
and  Simpson  once  more  whetted  men's  appetites  for 
fame  and  distinction:  so  that  Sir  J.  Barrow's  new 
proposition  for  one  final  attempt  to  find  the  passage 
was  pretty  sure  to  meet  with  supporters. 

It  must  be  remembered,  too,  that  although  much 

had  been  suffered  in  former  attempts,  and  some  of 

these  had  been  attended  with  little  or  no  success,  yet 

jn  modern  times  no  exploring  party  had  been  lost. 

Nor  was  Sir  John  Barrow  the  only  one  who  still 


FRANKLIN  H  ENTHUSIASM. 


AND  SOME  OF  THE 
H  OF  HIM. 

e  in  1836  Bcems 
iat  damping  the 
it  waa  not  until 
c  expedition  was 

r'  had  been  put 
npany  with  the 
ig  ice  and  etorras 
ommarid  of  Sir 
)f  Messrs.  Deasc 
m's  appetites  for 
J.  Barrow's  new 
find  the  passage 
orters. 

;  altbotigh  much 
ats,  and  some  of 
r  no  success,  yet 
had  been  lost, 
ly  one  who  still 


retained  all  hiH  former  eagerness  about  the  complete 
settlement  of  the  old  puzzle.  He  was  fully  supported 
by  Lieut.-Colonel  Sabine,  who  thought  that  thert^by 
great  service  would  be  rendered  to  those  scientific 
subjects  to  which  he  had  almost  devoted  his  life ; 
and  the  enthusiism  of  Sir  John  Franklin  himself 
was  such,  that  when  a  doubt  was  raised  about  the 
propriety  of  stiiding  out  so  old  a  man,  his  friend, 
Sir  Edward  Parry,  said,—  *  If  you  do  not  let  him  go, 
the  man  will  die  of  disappointment.' 

Sir  John  Franklin  wa«,  however,  spared  that 
kind  of  death. 

In  May,  1845,  he  sailed  as  commander  of  the 
'  Erebus,'  and  of  the  expedition ;  Captain  Crozier, 
who  had  accompanied  Sir  James  Ross  in  his 
Antarctic  voyage,  being  appointed  captain  of  the 
•Terror;'  and  the  transport  *  Barretto,'  under  the 
command  of  Lieutenant  Griffiths,  being  ordered  to 
afcoompany  them. 

This  latter  was  laden  with  extra  supplies,  and 
was  to  be  sent  home  as  usual  from  Davis's  Straits. 
The  vessels  were  in  every  way  fitted  for  the  expedi- 
tion, and  each  was  provided  with  a  steam-engine  and 
screw-propeller,  to  be  used  only  in  case  of  pushing 
through  ice  with  an  adverse  wind.  They  were  pro- 
visioned for  more  than  three  years ;  and  the  two 
crews  consisted  of  138  men. 

The  instructions  given  to  Sir  John  before  sailing, 
directed  him  to  take  the  course  followed  by  Sir  Edward 
Parry  on  his  first  voyage,  namely,  through  Barrow's 
Straits,  Melville  Sound,  Banks'  Straits,  and  so  onward 


>UWWM^W-    iMWHIIIIII 


■IS 

i 
i 


954 


■ 


%'"' 


BIR  JoilV  FIUNKIJN. 


towanlH  H.hring'8  StraitH.     Thiw  coumo.  afVer  many 
expcriinentH,  HwiniuK  t..  promiiM'  tho  monf  fairly. 

H..  would  thuH.aff.T  paKHiiiK  Harrow's SfraltH.havo 
on  hiH  north  th.-  Purry  JhI«h;  of  which  the  three  prin- 
cipal are  Nortli  Devon,  CornwalliH,  and  Melville  Igles : 
and  an  tho  shores  of  these  were  generally  encompassed 
by  ice,  he  wiw  adviswl  to  keep  close  to  the  southern 
land ;  which,  however,  it  must  be  remembered,  con- 
sisted of  still  larger  islands,  and  not  of  the  continent 
Itself.  He  had,  liowever,  the  choice  of  passing  up 
Queen's  Channel,  between  North  Devon  and  Corn- 
wallis'  Isles,  and  so  rotmd  the  north  of  all,  should 
the  sea  appear  to  be  more  op«n  there,  or  southward 
towards  the  mainland,  if  he  cotdd  find  a  passage. 

When  this  (expedition  started,  it  was  not  expected 
that  news  could  be  received  for  nearly  two  years  after 
entering  the  ice.  Lieutenant  (Griffiths,  of  the  '  Har- 
retto'  transport,  left  'all  well  and  in  good  spirits:' 
and  the  'Prince  of  Wales'  whaling-vessel  saw  them 
shortly  afterwards  moored  to  an  iceberg  in  the  middle 
of  Baffin's  Bay :  but  from  that  time  a  dead  silence 
ensued. 

It  was  a  terrible  silence,  without  doubt,  to  the 
pnvate  friends  of  the  party;  but,  for  the  first  two 
years,  only  the  expected  time  of  suspense. 

Wlien,  however,  the  allotted  time  had  fully  ex- 
pired, this  suspense,  we  know,  rapidly  grew  into  a 
fearful  anxiety,  and,  in  some  hearts,  even  to  agony. 

But  Sir  John  Ross  had  returned  after  all  hope 
concerning  him  had  been  given  up,  and  why  might 
not  Sir  John  Franklin  ? 


T—H'iWJ.Hj.wlUM.nnui.j.i 


course,  ftf>or  many 
10  moHt  fairly. 
•row'HSfriiitH.have 
it'll  tlio  three  prin- 
lul  Melville  IhIoh  : 
rally  encornpftHHed 
le  to  the  southern 
remembered,  con- 
t  of  the  continent 
CO  of  paHHing  up 
t)evon  and  Com- 
•th  of  all,  should 
3re,  or  southward 
nd  a  pasHuge. 
was  not  expected 
ly  two  years  after 
iths,  of  the  '  Har- 
in  good  rtpirits : ' 
-vessel  saw  them 
erg  in  the  middle 
e  a  dead  silence 

ut  doubt,  to  the 
for  the  first  two 
uspense. 

le  had  fully  ex- 
dly  grew  into  a 
even  to  agony, 
d  after  all  hope 
and  why  might 


HIH  JOHN  UK  lIAIinsoS. 


2S5 


80,  by  the  beginning  of  184H,  it  wan  fully  deter- 
mintHl  that  search  must  be. made  ;  and  ma<h>  not  only 
(juiokly,  but  thoroughly. 

In  three  directions  it  was  to  be  made;  and  vo- 
lunteers for  tlic  service  wert^  not  wanting  Sir  .loliu 
was  too  well  known,  and  too  much  beloved,  for  that; 
and  his  old  companion,  Dr.  (now  Sir  John)  Hichard- 
Hou,  was  among  the  tirst  to  otfer  himself. 

He  proposed  to  go,  and  was  sent  in  the  direction 
which  he  knew  best — that  straight  o\er  from  New 
York,  across  by  the  old  trading  route,  and  so  down 
to  the  Mackenzie's  mouth,  to  examine  the  coast  east- 
ward, in  case  the  missing  party  shouhl  have  made 
their  way  so  far  south.  And  in  company  with  him 
went  Dr.  Rae,  lately  the  conductor  of  an  important 
expedition  sent  out  by  the  Ifudson's  Hay  ("ompany. 

At  the  sjime  time  two  other  parties  were  to  search 
in  the  Polar  Sea ;  one  entering  it  by  Behrinj,'s  Straits, 
where  they  were  to  arrive  by  the  Ist  July,  and  the 
other  following  exactly  in  Sir  John's  own  wake,  and 
so  proceeding  to  meet  the  former. 

The 'Herald'  and  'Plover,'  under  Captain  Kel- 
lett  and  Commander  Moore,  were  the  vessels  destined 
to  enter  by  the  west ;  and  the  '  Enterprise'  and  *  In- 
vestigator,' under  Sir  James  Ross  and  Captain  Bird, 
were  those  ordered  to  enter  by  Lancaster  Sound : 
and  this  last  was,  perhaps,  the  most  important  of  the 
three  expeditions. 

It  was  hoped  that  Sir  J.  Richardson  might  pos- 
sibly make  the  voyage  in  one  season  ;  but,  in  case  of 
not  doing  so,  he  was  directed  to  make  deposits  of 


-j^r  ' 


^-~,!..j^,,(^.;-.. 


lit;! 


i 


Hi 

mill 

;*  '1  ■ ' 

jii 


I!  i 

liij 
Si  '■ 

iil: 


256 


SIR  JOHN  FRANKLIN. 


pemmican  at  various  points^  for  the  use  of  a  party 
to  be  sent  southward  from  the  ships,  by  Sir  James 
Boss,  next  spring. 

One  winter  only  was  to  be  passed  away  from  home 
in  any  case,  and  that  was  to  be  at  Great  Bear  Lake. 

At  the  delta  of  the  Mackenzie's  mouth  bottles 
were  to  be  buried  in  a  circle,  from  the  point  of  a 
broad  arrow  painted  on  the  signal-post;  and  land- 
marks were  to  be  painted  white  or  red,  cr  with  black 
stripes. 

Sir  John  Hichardson  was  at  this  time  sijsty-two 
years  of  age ;  but  still  full  of  ardour  and  energy,  and 
of  love  for  his  old  friend,  he  pubhed  on  his  way  so 
rapidly  that,  in  three  months,  he  had  reached  the  sea. 

The  openings  between  those  large  islands  on  the 
northern  side  of  the  narrow  chaunel  which  bounds  a 
good  part  of  the  northern  coast,  namelj',  Banks' 
Land,  WoUaston,  Prince  of  Wales'  and  King  "Wil- 
liam's Lands,  were  to  him,  he  tells  us,  very  full  of 
'interest.  And  as  Sir  John  Franklin's  instructions 
had  been  to  steer  south-west  after  passing  Cape 
Walker,  he  "elt  convinced  that  the  ships  were  pro- 
bably blocked  up  in  one  of  these  passages. 

The  first  point,  however,  to  be  ascertained  was 
.vhether  any  ships  had  passed  along  the  coast ;  and 
this,  during  a  voyage  between  the  Mackenzie  and 
Coppermine  Eivers,  he  was  pretty  well  able  to  settle 
in  the  negative,  through  his  frequent  communications 
with  the  Esquimaux. 

The  remaining  part  of  the  examination  he  was 
obliged  to  leave  to  Dr.  Rae,  who  had  volunteered 


NKLIN. 


CAPTAIiN  KELLETT  S  EXPEDITION. 


257 


,  for  the  use  of  a  party 
he  ships,  by  Sir  James 

passed  away  from  home 
<e  at  Great  Bear  Lake, 
kenzie's  mouth  bottles 
ie,  from  the  point  of  a 
signal-post;  and  land- 
:e  or  red,  cr  with  black 

at  this  time  sijcty-two 
ardour  and  energy,  and 
pushed  on  his  way  so 
he  hud  reached  the  sea. 
se  large  islands  on  the 
launel  which  bounds  a 
coast,  namely.  Banks' 
iVales'  and  King  Wil- 
e  tells  us,  very  full  of 
Franklin's  instructions 
it  after  passing  Cape 
it  the  ships  were  pro- 
these  passages, 
to  be  ascertained  was 
.  along  the  coast ;  and 
n  the  Mackenzie  and 
Btty  well  able  to  settle 
^uent  communications 

3  examination  he  was 
who  had  volunteered 


to  search  the  passage,  as  Sir  James  Richardson's 
time  was  expired ;  and  he  was,  therefore,  compelled 
to  return  to  Euniland. 

Let  us  now  follow  the  second  expedition. 

Its  commander.  Captain  Kellett,  waa  with  his 
vessel,  the  '  Herald,'  at  Oahu,  in  the  Sandwich  Isles, 
when  it  was  planned  at  home  ;  and  there  the  'Plover,' 
a  miserable  sailer,  had  to  join  him. 

It  was  August  before  the  two  ships  met;  and, 
therefore,  too  late  to  think  of  proceeding  that  year :  so 
the  *  Plover'  wintered  in  a  Kamptschatkan  port ;  and 
in  June  the  *  Herald'  joined  her  at  Chamisso  Island, 
in  the  bottom  of  Kotzebue's  Sound.  There  they 
were  joined  also  by  a  yacht,  named  the  *  Nancy 
Dawson,'  which  belonged  to  Robert  Shedden,  Esq., 
a  wealthy  gentleman,  who  happened  to  be  in  China 
when  he  heard  of  the  expedition,  and  resolved  to 
turn  aside  from  his  pleasure-trip  round  the  globe 
to  join  it. 

By  July  20th  they  had  passed  Beh ring's  Straits, 
and  were  in  sight  of  Cape  Lisbume.  There,  boats 
were  put  oflf  to  examine  the  coast,  and  hold  inter- 
course with  the  natives,  who  soon  began  fearlessly 
to  visit  the  ships,  and  seemed  well-disposed.  Seals, 
walruses,  and  whales,  were  blowing,  grunting,  and 
barking  all  around ;  and  immense  flocks  of  ducks 
were  also  seen. 

Icy  Cape  was  next  passed,  the  old  point  which 
had  been  so  seldom  attained ;  and  it  was  lioped  that 
the '  Plover'  might  winter  in  Wainwright  Bay  beyond 
it ;  but  the  water  was  found  too  sli  allow. 

s 


;SfSi;.®s»;»i 


JBi'ifmnitfiMiiriM 


niiiiitiiiiar^^i>'ri;Miiiiia;t.Mi 


";rv-^"rt-t-f,^\it^t».-^<*^_.i-.».--;.^. 


mr- 


258 


SIR  JOHN  FRANKLIN. 


\  i  ■( 


Four  boats  were  now  put  out;  and  tbey  and 
the  ships  weighed  anchor  in  company.  A  fog  soon, 
however,  came  on,  and  they  were  separated  for  a 
time,  and  seem  to  have  got  out  of  their  direct  course ; 
for  hereabouts,  but  far  to  the  northward,  two  little 
islands  were  discovered  by  Captain  Kellett,  which 
were  called  tlie  Herald  and  the  Plover. 

Some  of  the  boats  were,  however,  sent  on  to  make 
their  way  to  some  of  the  stations  on  the  Mackenzie 
Eiver,  but  as  soon  as  winter  approached  the  *  Plover,' 
which  was  a  depot  ship,  went  into  a  good  anchoring 
to  await  the  return  of  the  boats,  while  the  'Herald' 
was  obliged,  according  to  her  instructions,  to  return 
to  the  south,  in  company  with  Mr.  Shedden  and  his 
yacht. 

This  latter  gentleman  fell  a  victim  to  his  ex- 
ertions, and  died  on  the  homeward  voyage. 

Sir  James  Boss  had,  meantime,  left  England 
in  June,  1848,  with  the  two  splendid  vessels, 
'  Enterprise'  and  ♦  Investigator,'  each  at  his  own 
special  request  being  provided  with  a  launch 
fitted  with  a  small  engine  and  screw.  He  pre- 
ferred this  plan  to  that  of  having  the  machinery 
attaclied  to  the  vessels  themselves.  Now  the 
quantity  of  work  appointed  to  this  able  com- 
mander was  certainly  very  considerable.  All 
the  coasts,  north  and  south  of  Lancaster  Sound, 
Barrow's  Straits,  and  Wellington  Channel,  were 
to  be  tlioroughly  explored  by  the  *  Enterprise ;'  and, 
meantime,  the  '  Investigator'  was  to  be  left  to  winter 
in  some  harbour  of  North  Somerset,  in  order  to  be 


RUMOURS  OF  INTELLIGENCE. 


U6» 


t ;  and  tbey  and 
my.  A  fog  soon, 
i  separated  for  a 
leir  direct  course ; 
:hward,  two  little 
n  Kellett,  which 
lover, 

,  sent  on  to  make 
)n  the  Mackenzie 
;hed  the  *  Plover,' 
I  good  anchoring 
lile  the  'Herald' 
iictions,  to  return 
Shedden  and  liis 

ictim  to  his  ex- 
1  voyage, 
le,  left  England 
splendid  vessels, 
jach  at  his  own 
with  a  launch 
crew.  He  pre- 
f  the  machinery 
ves.  Now  the 
this  able  com- 
isiderable.  All 
rancaster  Sound, 
Channel,  were 
Interprise;'  and, 
be  left  to  winter 
t,  in  order  to  be 


ready  to  examine,  next  spring,  the  shores  of  that 
ice-bound  country  and  Boothia,  sending  her  steam 
launch  to  meet  the  whaling-vessels  and  to  forward 
despatches  home. 

When  the  '  Enterprise'  reached  either  Winter 
Harbour  or  Banks'  Land,  parties  were  to  be  started  in 
all  directions  to  continue  the  search.  Of  this  vessel 
Sir  James  Boss  himself  took  the  command,  and  with 
it  he  seems  to  have  piirposed  remaining  out  alone, 
even  after  the  second  winter,  should  he  not  pre- 
viously have  met  with  the  desired  success.  But 
when  news  of  this  scheme  reached  the  Admiralty  in 
a  letter  sent  home  by  a  whaling-vessel,  they  imme- 
diately sent  out  further  supplies,  in  order  to  enable 
the  '  Invebiigator'  to  remain,  and  so  prevent  so  ven- 
turesome a  proceeding. 

The  large  rewsird  of  20,000Z.  was  offered  to 
any  successfid  party;  Lady  Franklin  adding  to 
this  3000^.  more:  but  these  offers  were  made  too 
late  to  be  carried  on  that  year  to  the  various 
crews. 

It  was  in  the  end  of  1849,  when  the  anxiety 
felt  for  the  missing  vessels  was  becoming  intense, 
that  two  gleams  of  hope  flashed  across  our  country, 
and  as  quickly  disappeared. 

The  first  was  the  rumour  of  news  received  by 
means  of  a  sealed  bottle,  which  had  been  picked  up 
in  Davis's  Strait,  and  brought  home.  When  opened, 
however,  it  was  found  to  contain  only  tidings  of  a 
still  earlier  date  than  those  last  received. 

But  before  people  had  recovered  from  this  dis- 


AMiiS« 


illf!! 


m 


¥i 


I 


m 

tj  ;    '1 


260 


SIR  JOHN  FRANKLIN. 


appointment,  the  '  True  Love'  whaler  arrived,  whose 
captain  lad  learnt  from  a  brother  captain  that  an 
Esquimi.ux  had,  on  board  his  ship,  sketched  four 
vessels  oeset  in  the  ice.  iu  an  inlet  supposed  to  be 
Regent's  Inlet ;  and  two  of  these  ships  he  described 
as  shut  up  for  four  years,  the  others  for  one  only. 

It  may  be  imagined  how  eager  many  would  be 
to  verify  this  report ;  but  the  captain  was  only  able 
to  tell  them  that  a  solid  bar  of  ice  had  prevented  his 
doing  so  himself. 

It  was  a  mysterious  matter ;  but  the  Admiralty 
soon  discovered  many  inconsistencies  in  the  story, 
which  has  since  proved  to  have  been  an  entirely 
false  one. 

Sir  James  Ross  made  his  investigation  most, 
carefully,  firing  guns  every  half  hour,  and  keeping 
up  a  scrutinising  examination  with  glasses  when 
near  any  shore ;  for  they  hoped,  and  constantly  ex- 
pected, he  says,  to  see  .those  of  whom  they  were  ' ,» 
search. 

In  Possession  Bay  they  landed,  and  found  the 
papers  left  there  in  1819  by  hit  E  iward  Parry  still 
legible ! 

At  Cape  York  a  very  conspjcuoug  ra'^'k  wap 
fixed  up,  with  a  paper  of  v.ritten  iristnicli-uid  as  to 
where  their  missing  friends  might  find  them  or  the 
depots  of  food.  Rockets  and  blue-lights  were  used 
as  signals  during  the  night,  and  everywhere  papers 
were  distributed,  begging  Sir  J.  Franklin's  party,  if 
possible,  to  make  for  Port.  Leopold  in  North  So- 
merset, where  a  large  depot  of  provisions  was  to 


er  arrived,  whose 

captain  that  an 

p,  sketched  four 

t  supposed  to  be 

lips  he  described 

for  one  only. 

many  would  be 

in  was  only  able 

ad  prevented  his 

it  the  Admiralty 
ies  in  the  story, 
been  an  entirely 

vestigation  most 
)ur;  and  keeping 
•  h  glasses  when 
id  constantly  ex- 
am they  were  '  j 

,  and  found  the 
Iward  Parry  still 

iuous  jv!>''k  wftp 
■mt»'U('liv),:.H  as  to 
md  them  or  the 
-lights  were  used 
'erywhere  papers 
mklin's  party,  if 
d  in  North  So- 
rovisions  vras  to 


DRIFTINO  IN  THE  PACK. 


261 


be   provided.      And  there   the   two  ships   had   to 
winter ! 

It  is  not  difficult  to  picture  to  ourselves  the  dis- 
appointed feeling  of  vexation  witli  which  the  crews 
had  at  last  to  settle  down  to  an  all  but  inactive 
state.  One  thing,  however,  they  did  during  the 
whole  time.     Many  foxes  visited  them,  and  for  these 


Uril'tiiig  ill  the  Puvk. 


traps  '/ere  set;  and  because  these  creatures  roam 
over  a  vast  extent  of  country  after  food,  copper 
collars  were  fastened  round  their  necks,  on  which 
v«iw  engraved  notices  of  the  position  of  the  ships 
ami  stores. 

Early  in  spring  many  land  journeys  were  made, 
and  as  soon  as  possible  they  tried  to  push  westward  ; 
but  in  vain. 


i 


262 


SIR  JOHN  FRANKLIN. 


Scarcely  had  they  got  free  from  the  dangerous 
shores  of  North  Somerset  than  the  ships  were  caught 
in  a  drifting  pack,  and  fairly  swept  with  it  back  into 
Baffin's  Bay.  It  was,  in  fact,  a  narrow  escape  from 
destruction  ;  and  with  his  enfeebled  crews  Sir  James 
Ross  was  forced  to  givt,  up  the  search  and  return  to 
England,  earnestly  hoping  that  Sir  John  Richardson 
had  been  more  successful. 

This  hope  was,  however,  dissipated  two  days  after- 
wards, when  he  also  arrived. 

The  failure  of  the  three  expeditions  could  not 
but  cast  a  sad  gloom  over  the  public  mind.  There 
was  no  dispoHition,  notwithstanding,  to  give  up  the 
Keaich  ;  and,  in  a  few  months,  the  '  Enterprise'  and 
'  Investigator'  were  again  in  readiness  to  accompany 
the  '  riover'  on  another  voyage,  by  way  of  Behring's 
Straits. 


i    j; 


The  timp  was  now  approaching  when  ihe  labours 
of  many  brave  men,  during  a  lengthened  course  of 
years,  were  to  be  broi'ght  at  length  to  a  successful  ter- 
mination. That  result,  and  that  alone,  we  may  safely 
say,  could  ever  have  K'tf Ivd  the  minds  of  English- 
men ;  and  yet-  after  >11,  it  was  expedited  by  the 
melancholy  disajjpearance  of  one  of  her  bravest  sons. 

Sir  John  Franklin  h;id  gone  forth  in  1845, 
ardently  hoping  to  be  the  favoured  man  ;  and  though 
not  peimJtted  to  return  to  tell  his  story,  he  yet,  as 
now  appears,  succeeded :  while,  had  he  never  gone 
out,  this  North-west  Passage  might  still  be  a  thing 
to  be  sou^t  for. 


n  the  daDgeroiis 
liips  were  caught 
with  it  back  into 
rrow  escape  from 
crews  Sir  James 
ch  and  return  to 
John  Bichardson 

id  two  days  after- 

litions  could  not 
ic  mind.  There 
',  to  give  up  the 
Enterprise'  and 
iss  to  accompany 
way  of  Behring's 


vheu  the  labours 
hened  course  of 
)  a  successful  ter- 
tie,  we  may  safely 
inds  of  English - 
xpedit^-d  by  the 
her  bravest  sons, 
forth  in  1845, 
lan ;  and  though 
story,  he  yet,  as 
I  he  never  gone 
still  be  a  thing 


NUMKKOUS  EXl'EniTIONS. 


sea 


Never,  certainly,  had  those  icy  seas  been  ho  in- 
dustriously and  thoroughly  searched  ;  for  never  had 
there  been  such  a  motive  for  searching  them :  and 
thus  it  came  to  pass  that  *  the  matter  which  was  so 
near  Sir  John  Franklin's  heart'  came  at  length  to  be 
settled. 

Nor  was  there  any  difficulty,  at  that  time,  in 
finding  men  or  leaders  for  these  searching  voyages ; 
for  England  was  then  very  rich  in  men  and 
officers,  well  qualified  both  to  direct  and  carry 
tlsem  out. 

Each  previous  voyage  had  been  a  school,  of  which 
the  results  wore  now  to  be  seen. 

In  fact,  there  were  so  many  volunteers  that  Go- 
vernment could  not  employ  them  all;  and  many 
private  voyages  were  therefore  planned:  so  that, 
from  1850  to  1854,  Barrow's  Straits  and  Wellington 
Channel  became  quite  an  inhabited  region  of  the 
globe. 

Captain  Austen  was  there  with  his  two  sailing 
and  two  steam-vessels,  wintering  at  the  extreme 
south-west  of  Cornwallis'  Island.  His  was  a  Go- 
vernment expedition. 

Captains  Penny  and  Stewart  were  there  from  the 
merchant  s«rvioe,  in  a  port  of  Wellington  Chanuel, 
with  'the  Lady  Franklin'  and  '  Sophia,'  equipped  by 
private  means ;  Sir  John  Ross  himself  was  there,  in 
the  neighbourhood  of  Regent's  Inlet,  with  his  yacht ; 
and  the  '  Prince  Albert,'  fitted  out  at  Lady  Franklin's 
expense,  and  commanded  by  Captain  Kennedy,  was 
there  too:    while,  not  far   off,  were  the  American 


II'  .,  I 
iV!; 


MfMHyaNllMMM 


264 


SIR  JOHN  FRANK  MX. 


i\S 


Captains  Haven  and  Griffin,  and  their  vesat^s,  sent 
by  the  United  States  to  lend  their  aid. 

In  the  expedition  of  1848,  under  Sir  James 
Ross,  there  had  sailed  two  lioutenants,  who  were 
soon  to  become  distinguished  men — the  one  as  the 

.  solver  of  the  old  problem ;  the  other  as  the  finder 
of  the  relics  of  the  missing  party.  The  latter,  Lieu- 
tenant M'Clintock,  was  now  with  Captain  Atistcn : 

.while  the  former,  Captain  M'Clure,  was  engaged  in 
an  expedition  of  which  we  shall  have  to  speak 
almost  immediately. 

But  first,  let  us  take  a  glance  at  Captain  Austen's 
proceedings. 

Previous  to  his  arrival,  he  tells  us.  Captain  Penny 
had  discovered,  on  Beechey  Island,  at  the  entrance 
of  Wellington  Channel,  three  sailors'  graves,  and  an 
immense  number  of  cases  of  preserved  meats;  ap- 
parently discarded  because  they  had  turned  putrid. 
And  from  these  things  the  captain  gathered  that,  at 
some  time  or  other,  this  spot  had  been  the  wintering- 
place  of  his  unfortunate  countrymen ;  as,  indeed,  we 
now  know  to  have  been  the  case ;  while  the  quan- 
tity f  the  abandoned  food  raised  very  melancholy 
appiv-hensions  as  to  the  state  of  their  provisions. 

Having  passed  the  winter  as  comfortably  as  they 
could,  Captai.i  Austen  prepared  for  active  operations 
early  in  spring ;  and  on  the  15th  of  April,  four- 
teen sledges,  raanned  by  104  men,  and  victualled 
for  six  week»,  started  off  in  all  directions ;  after 
having  first  united  in  prayer  for  the  success  of  their 
undertakings. 


-^  ] 


jjmmmm 


leir  vessels,  sent 
r  aid. 

nder  Sir  Jamos 
ants,  who  were 
—the  one  as  the 
or  aa  the  finder 
Phe  latter,  Lieu- 
Daptain  Austen: 
was  engaged  in 
have  to  speak 

'aptain  Austen's 

1,  Captain  Penny 
at  the  entrance 
'  graves,  and  an 
ved  meats;  ap- 
i  turned  putrid, 
gathered  that,  at 
a  the  wintering- 
;  as,  indeed,  we 
while  the  quan- 
'ery  melancholy 
ir  provisions, 
ifortably  aa  they 
ctive  operations 
of  April,  four- 
and  victualled 
irections;  after 
success  of  their 


r 


'.am 


SI,EIM)E  JOlfllNKVB. 


867 


Tlie  ,s!»idgeH  wvre  drawn  by  some  of  tlun  iiiwi, 
two  offii-ers  wulki;><i;  in  front  to  point  otit  tho  diroo 
f  ion  :  but  theso  and  tho  tnon  hod  to  bo  clmnf^ed  every 
hulf-bour,  beciiuae  they  couhl  not  lonj^er  tiiipport  W\t> 
intenHe  glare  of  the  sun  on  the  ice.  When,  Jiowever, 
the  wind  was  strong,  the  sledgPH  wore  borne  tth)ng 


A  HIwIku  Jouruoy. 

by  means  of  tbe  teut-curtains,  which  were  transformed 
into  sails. 

Their  sufferings  from  cold  were  intense,  and  the 
health  of  many  suffered  greatly  in  consequence.  The 
wine  froze  in  the  bottles;  and  when  sufficiently 
thawed  to  allow  of  its  being  drunk,  all  kinds  of  pre- 
cantions  had  to  be  used  by  the  meii  to  avoid  leaving 
part  of  their  lips  attached  to  the  V-ottle. 


I 


2(58 


sill  .lOlIN  niANKMN. 


Coff.'c  wuH  found  to  wurin  tliein  morn  tliiui  aiiy- 
tliiiifrHHt' ;  but,  by  Homo  of  the  partioH,  tho  bi'8t  unti- 
(lot.)  .i^TiiiuHt  eoI(J,  numely,  fresh  meat,  won  not  once 
obtaiiiod. 

Some  were  attacked  by  oplithalmia;  gome  j^ot 
their  lim'  frost-bitten  :  and  on(<  officer,  George  Mul- 
eomo,  C()mnwmd)r  of  the  nledgi-  •  Excellent,'  actually 
died  on  duty. 

Lieut«nant  M'tUintock'H  party  vinited  Melville 
Island,  and  found  them«elve8  better  off.  It  proved, 
indeed,  juHt  the  privileged  upot  of  the  animal  creation* 
in  the  Arctic  Uegions  which  Parry  had  dewcribed 
it.  Bimrn.  rein-deer,  musk-oxen,  foxes,  haren,  and 
ptarmigan«,  abounded  there;  and  though  it  v/an 
cmly  May,  the  snow  had  n>»ltfd  from  many  slopeH, 
and  moHflos  and  green  turf  appeared  on  then) 
instead. 

In  Bushman's  Cove  many  Indications  of  Parry's 
residence  still  remained;  and  in  Winter  Harbour  they 
found  the  rock  engraved  by  him  in  1820,  to  which 
they  added  a  record  of  their  own  visit. 

Meantime  Captain  Penny's  party  were  in  the 
flame  manner  exploring?  the  coasts  of  Wellington 
Channel ;  but  with  no  better  success.  And  by  the 
end  of  1851,  the  strength  of  all  the  crews  being 
exhausted,  Captain  Austen,  Captain  Penny,  and 
Sir  John  Ross,  returned  to  England;  while  the 
American  vessels  would  gladly  also  have  gone :  but 
they,  after  being  made  the  playthings  of  wind  and 
storm,  to  such  an  extent  that  they  could  keep 
neither  fire  nor  lights  on  board,  at  length  became 


<mmmm 


fmmm 


•iguuiiwjf  ij.waiiatt.yi^ 


iiiort'  than  aiiy- 
ioH,  tho  lu'Ht  uuti- 
•af,  wuH  not  „iie,. 

Iinia;  koiiui  ^r^,t 
cor,  (Jeorjfe  Mal- 
cell<nit,'  actually 

viHited  Mt'lvillt' 
off.      It  provt'd, 

animal  creation 
r  luul  (ifHcrilx'd 
bxoH,  ImrcH,  and 

though  it  v/a« 
itn  many  Hlopctt, 
oared    on   them 

itions  of  Parry'H 
er  Harbour  they 

1820,  to  which 
^isit, 
ty  were   in    thii 

of  Wellington 
w.  And  by  the 
he  crews  being 
n  Penny,  and 
nd  ;  while  the 
have  gone :  but 
?8  of  wind  and 
sy  could  keep 
length  became 


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DEATU  OK  BELLOT. 


2fi9 


frozen  in,  and  could  not  escape  from  their  imprison- 
ment for  the  next  ten  months. 

The  'Prince  Albert'  (Captain  Kennedy)  had, 
meanti  .ne,  been  prevented  by  the  ice  from  commu- 
nicating with  the  other  vessels.  It  had  been  fixed 
in  the  entrance  of  Regent's  Inlet,  and  had  win- 
tered in  Batty's  Bay,  whence  excursions  had  been 
made  around  North  Somerset,  and  the  little 
strait  thus  discovered  which  separates  that  country 
from  Boothia,  and  which,  strangely  enough,  had 
been  passed  unperceived  by  both  the  Captains 
Ross. 

This  little  strait  was  named  after  Bellot,  an  ar- 
('.ent  young  Frenchman,  who  had  entreated  to  be 
allowed  to  join  the  expedition,  and  who  proved  a 
most  valuable  assistant. 

This  unfortunate  young  officer  was  engaged  also 
in  the  expeditions  of  1852,  and  perished  among  the 
ice  over  which  he  was  travelling  in  a  sledge,  in  the 
following  manner: — 

Several  vessels  were  then  out,  under  the  com- 
mand of  Captain  (afterwards  Sir  Edward)  Belcher, 
pursuing  their  investigations  in  all  directions.  The 
'  Phoenix'  was  afterwards  sent  from  England  with 
despatches  to  Captain  Belcher,  who  was  then  very 
far  north.  To  carry  these  on  over  the  ice  was  a 
dangerous  service;  but  Lieutenant  Bellot  volun- 
teered. He  started  with  a  siedge  and  four  men ;  but 
one  day  the  ice  cracked,  and  left  him  and  two  of 
•the  men  alone  on  one  piece,  which  lirifted  fast  away. 
Ho  attempted  to  cheer  his  companions,  and  to  cross 


270 


SIR  JOHN  FRANKLIN. 


again  over  some  narrow  part  in  order  to  make  their 
situation  known. 

It  was  blowing  a  violent  storm ;  but  after  wait- 
ing a  little  for  his  return,  and  listening  in  vain  for 
his  answer  to  their  shouts,  the  men  followed,  and 
perceived  on  the  opposite  side  nothing  but  his  staff 
lying  on  the  ice;  its  master  being,  no  doubt,  far 
below  under  the  dreadful  masses.  Without  food  or 
fire,  the  others  spent  twenty-four  hours  on  this 
dreary  island  of  ice  before  they  succeeded,  as  they 
did  at  last,  in  crossing  and  regaining  their  com- 
panions. 


er  to  make  their 

;  but  after  wait- 
ning  in  vain  for 
m  followed,  and 
ing  but  his  staff 
J,  no  doubt,  far 
Without  food  or 
■  hours  on  this 
cceeded,  as  they 
Qing  their  com- 


$n 


CHAPTER  XIV.     .   ■ 

SIR  ROBEIIT  M'CLURe's  VOYAGE. 

Never,  perhaps,  did  this  country  show  greater  eai-- 
nestness  about  anything  than  it  did  in  this  search 
after  the  Franklin  expedition. 

Sir  James  Ross  only  returned  late  in  1849  with 
his  two  ships;  and  yet,  by  the  10th  of  .January,  18cO, 
the  '  Enterprise'  and  '  Investigator'  were  once  more 
putting  to  sea,  under  the  command  of  Captain 
Richar-l.  CoUinson  and  Commander  Robert  Le  Me- 
surier  M'Clure ;  the  former  having  gained  a  reputa- 
tion in  China,  and  the  latter,  as  well  as  his  vessel, 
having  only  recently  returned  with  Sir  James  Ross. 

He  was  promoted  for  his  good  services  during 
that  voyage,  and  gladly  turned  back  again  to  resume 
the  work,  though  he  had  only  spent  a  few  months 
in  England. 

A  long  and  tedious  sail  of  six  months  lay  before . 
the  two  vessels  before  they  could  begin  their  Arctic 
work ;  for  whilst  others  were  searching  in  the  eastern, 
and  no\f  well-known  openings,  these  were  once  more 
to  try  a  course  which  had  never  yet  succeeded,  and 
along  which  no  large  ship  had  ever  passed  ;  though. 


272 


SIR  ROBEUT  M'ClArRE. 


of  latti  yeara,  at)  we  have  seen,  some  boats  had  done 
so.  They  were  to  enter  by  Behring's  Straits,  and 
return  home,  if  possible,  from  west  to  epst.,  passing 
from  ocean  to  ocean  by  any  openings  that  they  could 
tind. 

Accordingly,  having  first  been  senl  into  dock  to 
repair  the  injuries  which  they  had  sustained,  the 
noble  jhips  were  liberally  furnished  with  everything 
that  could  possibly  facilitate  their  work ;  gunpowder 
for  blasting  the  ice,  poles,  hatchets,  and  ice-saws, 
and  a  sharp-pointed  machine  of  about  fourteen 
pounds  weight,  attached  by  a  tackle  and  fall  to  the 
extreme  end  of  the  bowsprit ;  which,  being  worked 
on  deck,  and  allowed  to  drop  suddenly,  would  pene- 
trate any  ordinary  ice,  and  so  open  a  passage  for  the 
ships.  They  had  also  provisions  for  three  years; 
and  finally  left  Plymouth  on  the  20th  of  January. 

We  shall,  however,  have  only  to*  do  with  the 
'Investigator'  in  this  chapter.  She,  being  a  slow 
sailer,  could  not  keep  up  with  her  consort;  and 
when  she  reached  the  Straits  of  Magellan,  she  found 
that  the  '  Enterprise'  had  already  passed,  having 
been  towed  through  by  H.  M.  S.  V.  'Gorgon,'  which 
had  received  orders  to  be  in  readiness  for  that  pur- 
pose, and  was  now  prepared  to  take  them  on.  They 
were,  however,  mortified  to  find  that,  as  the  '  Enter- 
prise' had  taken  all  the  bullocks,  there  was  no 
chance  of  fresh  meat  until  they  reached  the  Sand- 
wich Islands. 

Soon  after  rounding  Cape  Horn  they  met  with 
their  consort  lying  at  anchor  in  P^ortescue  Bay  ;  but, 


tE. 


SHOUT  STAY  AT  OAHU. 


urn 


le  boatfl  had  done 
ing's  Straits,  and 
t  to  epst,  passing 
gs  that  they  could 

sent  into  dock  to 
[id  sustained,  the 
d  with  everything 
work ;  gunpowder 
its,  and  ice-saws, 
f  about  fourteen 
le  and  fall  to  the 
ich,  being  worked 
snly,  would  pene- 
a  passage  for  the 
for  three  years; 
th  of  January. 
T  to'  do  with  the 
Ihe,  being  a  slow 
ler  consort ;  and 
igellan,  she  found 
y  passed,  having 
'.  'Gorgon,'  which 
ness  for  that  pur- 
e  them  on.  They 
at,  as  the  '  Enter- 
ks,  there  was  no 
sached  the  Sand- 

rn  they  met  with 
rtescue  Bay ;  but, 


being  sjon  separated  in  a  gale,  tliey  met  no  more 
during  the  voyage :  but  the  idea  that  the  ♦  Enter- 
prise' wiia  ahead,  continually  urged  the  Captain  of 
the  'Investigator'  to  hurry  on. 

Before  reaching  the  Sandwich  Isles  a  leak  in  the 
bread-room  was  discovered,  and  more  than  a  thou- 
sand pounds  of  biscuit  found  to  bo  mouldy ;  but  at 
Honolulu  they  were  happily  able  to  replenish  their 
stores,  the  work  of  getting  these  on  board  being 
generously  undertaken  by  tlie  crew  of  another  vessel 
lying  there,  in  order  that  the  seamen  of  the  '  In- 
vestigator'might  have  a  holiday;  and  during  their 
stay  in  the  beautiful  island  of  Oahu  the  men  had 
free  leave  to  go  where  they  would. 

The  '  Enterprise'  had  already  called  there,  and 
passed  on.  In  eager  haste  to  overtake  his  superior 
officer.  Commander  M'Clure  anxiously  looked  out 
for  the  shortest  passage  to  the  straits,  every  day 
being  now  precious. 

The  old  course  was  to  rim  to  the  north-west, 
across  the  north-east  trad^-wind,  and  into  the  Asiatic 
coast ;  then,  with  the  westerly  winds,  to  run  along  that 
shore,  and  so  keep  clear  of  the  dangerous  cliannels 
between  the  Aleutian  Isles.  But  M'Clure  had  heard 
of  a  shorter  route  ;  and  by  the  advice  of  an  intelli- 
gent sailor,  whom  he  met  at  Honolulu,  he  resolved 
to  run  directly  northward.  He  was  hastened  also 
by  a  rumour  in  the  island  of  Captain  CoUinson's 
intention  to  take  the  'Plover'  on  into  the  ice,  and 
leave  the  'Investigator'  in  her  place. 

Through  fogs  of  imusual  density,  tiierefore.  he 

T 


274 


SIR  noilKllT  M'CLUIIE. 


Ktill  prococcU'd  under  a  press  ctf  sail,  until,  in  Kotzc- 
bue  8ound,  tlu^y  wore  j,'ieotc(l  l»y  tlie  '  Plover'  lierHelt. 
This  vessel,  wliicli,  as  wo  bave  said,  was  used  ns 
a  depot  ship,  had  received  orders  to  remain  in 
that  capacity  for  the  assistance  of  this  expedition 
somewhere  near  the  entrance  ta  the  ice.  She 
had  not  seen  the  '  Enterprise '  pass  ;  but  they 
supposed  that  this  wa«  owing  to  the  dense  fogs : 
the  'Investigator,'  therefore,  continued  her  course 
through  the  straits,  and  to  Cape  Lisburne,  which 
had  been  fixed  on  by  Captain  CoUinson  as  the  next 
rendezvous.  All  letters  were,  however,  first  trans- 
ferj-ed  to  the  '  Plover,'  and  with  them  M'Clure's 
despatch,  explaining  his  intentions  should  he  have 
to  proceed  alone. 

He  wrote  in  his  jt)urnal  the  same  night, —  'I 
consider  that  we  have  said  adieu  to  the  world  for  the 
next  two  years.  May  that  arm  which  has  conducted 
us  so  far  in  safety  still  continue  its  protection  upon 
a  service  where  all  else  is  weakness  indeed  !' 

All  the  implements  for  dealing  with  ice  were  now 
brought  on  deck;  and  by  the  3lst  of  July  they  fell 
in  with  the  'Herald,'  which  annually  came  that 
way  t«  replenish  the  '  Plover,'  and  to  communicate 
with  her,  and  whose  captain  was  now  cruising  there 
in  the  hope  of  falling  in  with  Sir  John  Franklin  ; 
and  whilst  so  occupied,  Captain  Kellett  soon  after 
discovered  not  only  a  small  group  of  islands,  but 
an  extensive  land,  very  m)ich  to  the  north  of  any 
hitherto  seen  in  that  direction.  But  neither  had  he 
seen  the  '  Enterprise;'  and  so,  after  receiving  three 


SB^^S* 


v.. 

I,  until,  in  Kotzc- 

1  ♦  Plover'  herHi'lt. 

iid,  WHS  nst'd    as 

8    to    remain    in 

f  tliirt   expedition 

)   the   ice.      She 

pass  ;    but   they 

the  dense    fogs: 

inued  her  course 

Lisburne,  which 

inson  as  the  next 

tvever,  first  trans- 

.   them    M'Cbire's 

»   should  he  have 

same  night, —  'I 
» the  world  for  the 
ich  has  conducted 
ts  protection  upon 
3  indeed ! ' 
with  ice  were  now 
t  of  July  they  fell 
anally  came  that 
i  to  communicate 
low  cruising  there 
Lr  John  Franklin  ; 
Kellett  soon  after 
iip  of  islands,  but 
the  north  of  any 
But  neither  had  he 
'ter  receiving  three 


-J 


'  h^^f^'^^h^^.-.^ 


TIFK  KASTKRN  COAST  ROlTNDM). 


27V 

new  volunteers  and  furtlifir  supplies  on  hoard,  Cap-  ' 
tain  M't'lure  determined  to  proieed  alone. 

He  entered  the  ice  on  tl.  2nd  of  August,  and  fell 
in  with  an  immense  herd  of  walruses,  some  of  which 
were  so  large  as  to  he  supposed  to  weigh  35  cwl., 
and  the  ice  rose  two  feet  when  they  moved  off  a  mass 
of  ji.  The  men  would  have  shot  some  of  them,  but 
witnessing  the  affection  evinced  between  the  mothers 
and  their  great  babes,  (Captain  M'Clure's  feelings 
were  touched,  and  he  forbade  it. 

After  running  on  some  way  he  discovered  that 
his  vessel  was  in  a  cid-de-aac,  and  having  to  turu 
back  once  more,  he  again  sighted  the  '  Plover'  off 
Wainwright  In'et. 

Point  Barrow  was  their  next  landmark,  and  that 
once  past,  all  the  men  felt  that  they  were  now  really 
on  their  way  home,  having  thoroughly  rounded  this 
f  astern  coast,  and  reached  a  point  which  no  large 
vessel  had  previously  succeeded  in  gaining. 

Gladly  would  they  have  steered  their  course 
directly  across  for  Melville  Island ;  but  the  ice 
northward  was  perfectly  impregnable,  and  they, 
therefore,  had  no  other  way  than  to  get  into  the 
space  between  the  continent  and  the  heavy  ice, 
which  is  called  ♦  land-water.' 

The  Esquimaux  hsid  spoken  to  Dr.  Richardson 
of  an  open  sea  off  Mackenzie  River  ;  so  for  this  sea 
they  made  with  all  the  haste  which  numerous 
himimocks  of  ice  and  heavy  fogs  would  allow.  To 
have  mastered  the  difficulty  of  reaching  the  Arctic 
Ocean  from  the  Pacific  wa«  a  great  triumph ;  and 


"■# 


./' 


•' 


276 


sin  ROBERT  M'CLURE. 


in  the  iitmost  excitement  both  men  and  officers 
laboni-C'd  on,  Hometimes  Hailing  in  a  denHe  fog, 
and  at  otherH  towing  the  siiip  with  all  the  boats 
ahead,  while  tluit  dreary  coast  was  continually  en- 
livened by  loud  songs  and  hearty  clieers.  It  was 
important  now  to  obtain  some  intercourse  with  the 
natives,  in  order  that  they  might  learn  from  them 
whether  Franklin's  ships  had  passed. 


iJiSt  mwHit*' 


Tlie  '  Invoatigator '  in  tow  on  the  Ice. 


The  first  were  met  with  at  Point  Pitt,  about 
120  miles  east  of  Point  Barrow,  where  some  men  had 
been  sent  ashore  with  an  officer  to  erect  a  cairn,  and 
place  a  notice  there  of  the  'Investigator's'  voyage. 

They  had  with  them  an  excellent  interpreter, 
Mr.  Mierching,  who  had   for  many  years  been  a 


*w 


5. 

nen  and  officerH 
in  a  (lenBO  fog, 
th  all  the  boats 
^  continually  en- 
clieers.  It  was 
ercoiirfle  with  the 
learn  fro»n  them 
1. 


I.KTl'KU  l-KM'  WITH  TIIK  NATIVI-X 


277 


e  loe. 

oint  Pitt,  about 
sre  some  men  had 
'rect  a  cairn,  and 
fator's'  voyage, 
llent  interpreter, 
ly  years  been  a 


Moravian  iniMsionary  among  the  KH(}iiin)aux  of 
Labrador,  and  was  tlu^reforo  well  ac(|iiuinted  witli 
tht'ir  linbitH  and  the  best  method  of  getting  intii 
their  confidence. 

These  three  njen  whom  they  now  met  were 
at  first  very  timid,  Init  gained  courage  when  the 
friendly  act  of  nd)bing  noses  had  been  perfornu'd. 
Their  astonishment  at  the  sight  of  the  vessel  with 
its  *  three  great  moving  trees'  was  imbounded,  and 
they  could  find  no  name  for  it,  except  '  oomiack,'  or 
large  canoe. 

Captain  M'Clure  obtained  trom  these  people  tlie 
best  encouragement  regarding  his  voyage,  for  they 
spoke  of  a  continuous  open  channel  of  water  all  the 
way  to  the  east.  He  left  with  them  a  letter  to  be 
given  to  any  Europeans  who  might  visit  the  coast. 
This  letter  reached  Englantl  at  length,  but  not  till 
after  the  first  despatches  from  the  expedition  had 
been  received. 

He  told  them  that  he  was  looking  for  a  lost 
brother,  and  made  them  promise  to  be  kind  to  any 
Europeans  who  might  visit  them  hereafter. 

Working  slowly  along  this  coast,  which  is  a  low 
monotonous  plain,  variegated  at  that  season  with 
moss,  grass,  and  flowers,  and  broken  here  and  there 
by  fine  sheets  of  water,  they  kept  a  constant  look  out 
for  any  trace  of  Franklin's  crew,  and  fre«iuently 
received  visits  from  the  natives.  But  of  any  land 
to  the  northward  they  coirid  hear  nothing:  the 
seal-skin  kajaks  could  not  go  so  far ;  and  the  ice 
forbade  any  progress  up  the  inlets.     The  '  Investi- 


i 


27fl 


MIR  HOUKItT  M'CU'KK. 


jjatorM*  tried  by  all  po8«il»lo  inmiiH  to  Mprt-ad  the 
intc'llijjeiictf  of  tlu!ir  vJHit  uh  fur  n»  tlio  imtivt'g 
(ra\«'llt'(I,  by  ^jfivin;,'  tlicin  pn-HcntM  of  kuivoH  and 
lookin^-glaMHt>H,  oii  wliicli  tlio  Hliip'M  uuintt  >va« 
engravt'd.  > , 

Tobacfo  waH  found  a  very  good  trading  in'^diuni ; 
and  ovi'rywlieri'  tin"  |>«'ople  Httcinrd  {uNuealile  and 
friendly.  This  differeneo  in  their  niannern  fn»ra 
thoHo  of  the  nativeH  met  by  Kranltlin  wu«  pn)l)ably 
owing  entirely  to  Mr.  Mierehing'H  inHuence. 

The  navigation  ahing  tluH  coant  was  very  danger- 
ous; and  fogH,  rapid  eurrtsntH,  and  Hhoals,  Honie- 
tiineH  liidden  by  floe«  of  ice,  kept  the  commander 
in  a  conHtant  Htate  of  anxiety. 

At  last  the  '  Investigator'  beiaine  completely 
iHJset, — grounded,  and  wan  only  got  afloat  again  by 
their  trauflferring  the  deck  atoreH  to  the  boatH,  one 
of  which  capHized  in  the  opc^ration,  and  thus  they 
lost  ehfven  caskH  of  salt  meat. 

Ah  far  as  the  eye  could  reach  northward,  the  ico 
was  driven  close  together  in  inunense  niasses;  the 
edge  of  which  looked  like  a  line  of  chalk  cliffs. 
And  yet,  while  they  found  it  difficult  to  keep  clear 
of  this  packed  ice,  the  atmosphere  became  heavy 
and  sultry,  dark  clonds  gathered,  and  a  thunder- 
storm came  on  ;  the  first.  Commander  M'Clure  tells 
us,  that  he  had  ever  seen  in  so  high  a  latitude, 
namely,  70"  N. 

It  was  hard  work  t  get  along,  alid  only  accom- 
plished by  dint  of  towing  and  warping  pretty  con- 
stantly ;  though,  whenever  the  wind  served,  the  sails 


m' 


UK.         '■'■■1^';".  ■',.;"■ 

iiiH  to  Npicad  the 
ir  AS  tho  nntivoH 
t«  of  knivoH  uihI 
hIiIp'm    nuintt    v/t\n 

\  tradinj;  inodiutn ; 
I'd  pciuealilu  and 
•ir  inantitM-H  fnun 
klin  WU8  probably 
iiiHiifnce. 
t  wiiH  vory  dutiger- 
iid  HboalH,  Hoinc- 
it  the  conitnandiT 

H-tiiiK'  complftely 

;t»t  athiat  ngniti  by 

to  the  I)uat8,  one 

•II,  and  thuH  thi'y 

loi-thward,  tiie  ice 
icnw  inaHses;  tlie 
B  of  I'lialk  cliffn. 
juU  to  keep  clear 
ire  became  heavy 
,  and  a  thunder- 
ider  M'Clure  tells 
high  a  latitude, 

atid  only  accom- 
^rping  pretty  con- 
d  served,  the  sails 


•  INVI'-MTtyATott'  IN  A  THAI*. 


270 


were  hoiHted  again,  and  the  '  InveHtigator*  urged  to 
encoiuilerH  with  the  ice,  which  Het  all  the  HJiip'w 
bellH  ringing. 

Although  nt)w  only  the  17th  of  Augiint,  even  the 
ojien  Mea  wiw  U-ginning  to  be  coated  over  with  ice. 
Next  day  they  pattwd  KlaxniiurH  iHland,  and  began 
to  feel  the  iiiHuence  of  the  INIiukeiizie  Kiver  on  the 
ocean;  for,  even  at  thiHclistanci-,  the  outpouring  of  ho 
large  a  body  of  water  had  repelled  tho  main  body  of 
ice  no  far  to  the  northward  that  M'Clure  felt  templed 
to  run  straight  acroHH  in  the  direction  of  Manks'  Land. 
lie  Hoou,  how«iver,  diwovered  his  miHtake,  and  a 
fatal  one  it  hiul  nearly  [)roved  ;  for,  after  apparently 
making  good  progrenn,  they  fouixl  that  the  nhip 
waH,  as  it  were,  in  a  kind  of  trap,  amid  the  packed 
ice,  and  the  fearful  thought  that  this  might  chisc 
behind  theui,  and  bo  shut  them  in  for  ever,  tuged 
the  necessity  of  innnediately  retracing  their  way. 
Ihit  they  had  nui  ninety  miles  into  this  niiiss  of 
stupendouH  hummocks,  deceive<l  by  the  passage  ef 
open  water  in  the  midst  of  it,  and  by  the  pitching 
motiim  of  the  ship ;  and  perhaps  not  a  man  on  board 
ever  felt  nmre  grateful  in  his  life  than  when  once 
more  the '  Investigator'  was  steering  her  course  along 
the  coast.  They  found  the  sea  across  the  wide  angle 
of  the  Mackenzie's  mouth  comparatively  clear,  and 
passed  ttichard's  Island  on  the  (Cistern  side  of  the 
river  ou  the  22nd,  keeping  a  strict  look  out,  as  we 
nuiy  be  sure,  and  yet  utterly  imaware  that  a  boat's 
crew  from  Lieutenant  Pullen's  vessel  were  only  a 
few  miles  oflfl 


a   ^ 


m 


■  I..'  It 


hi 


iit";."Mih.8iU 


■■vv.^ft^. 


280 


SIR  UOBKRT  M'CI.URK. 


They  passed  each  other  unseen;  and  undiscou- 
raged,  therefore,  by  the  report  whicli  Lieutenant 
PuUen  would  certainly  have  given  of  the  state  of 
the  ice  near  the  next  prominent  point,  Cape  Bathurst, 
M'Clure  passed  on  ;  and  by  the  beginning  of  Sep- 
tend)er  had  rounded  that  point,  and,  sweeping  along 
Franklin's  Bay,  reached  Pariy  Point  by  the  6th,  and 


View  of  Cnpo  nathurst 

next  day  had  crossed  the  channel  and  landed  at  a 
point  of  Banlcs'  Land,  which  they  named  Nelson's 
Point. 

Not  knowing,  however,  that  this  was  a  part  of 
Banks'  Land,  they  gave  it  the  name  of  Baring's 
Island,  after  Sir  Francis  Baring,  then  iirst  Lord  of 
the  Admiralty ;  which  name  it  has  since  borne. 


RT  M'CLURK. 

her  unseen ;  and  undiHcou  - 
B  report  whicli  Lieutenant 
have  given  of  the  state  of 
linent  point,  Cape  Bathurst, 
hy  tlie  beginning  of  Sep- 
point,  and,  sweeping  along 
Pari-y  Point  by  the  6th,  and 


po  nachurst 

I  channel  and  landed  at  a 
hich  they  named  Nelson's 

3r,  that  this  was  a  part  of 
1  it  the  name  of  Baring's 
Baring,  then  first  Lord  of 
ne  it  has  since  borne. 


SIXTV  MILES  FUOM  MELVILLK  SOUND. 


2' 


It  was  a  rocky  and  picturesque  coast  on  v  .ioh 
tliey  had  landed,  and  many  traces  of  rein-deer  and 
hares  were  visible ;  while  wild  geese  were  even  then 
soaring  overhead.  But  late  in  the  season  though 
it  was,  the  sea  to  tlie  north-east  was  still  open ;  and 
they  continued,  therefore,  working  round  the  coast, 
up  the  strait  now  known  as  Prince  of  Wales's,  or 
M'Clure's,  knowing  well  that  hours,  and  not  Jays 
now,  would  probably  end  the  season  for  Arctic  work. 

Land  soon  after  seen  on  the  eastward,  was  hastily 
named  Prince  Albert's  Land ;  and  on  the  9th  Sep- 
tember, 1850,  Jie  observations  taken  showed  them 
to  be  only  sixty  miles  from  Melville  Sound. 

It  is  impossibifl  to  imagine  the  eager  excitement 
that  then  ^.revailed  on  board.  '  Only  give  us  time,' 
they  said, '  and  we  i.nust  make  the  North-west  Pas- 
sage;* and  the  Captain  writes  in  his  journal  that  he 
could  not  describe  his  anxious  feelings.  *  Can  it  be 
possible,'  he  says,  *  that  this  water  communicates 
with  Barrow's  Straits,  and  shall  prove  the  long- 
sought  North-west  Passage?  Can  it  be  that  so 
humble  a  creature  as  I  am  will  be  permitted  to  per- 
form what  has  baffled  the  talented  and  wise  for  hun- 
dreds of  years  ?  But  all  praise  be  ascribed  unto 
Him  who  hatli  conducted  us  so  far  in  safety.  His 
ways  are  not  our  ways,  nor  the  means  that  He  uses 
within  our  comprehension,  Tlie  wisdom  of  the 
world  is  foolishness  with  Him.' 

'  Oh,  for  another  week  of  summer  v.'eather !'  was, 
notwithstanding,  the  cry  of  all  on  board.  *Then 
we  might  finish  the  work  this  year.'     But  no  ;  ducks 


Tf 

y 


i-'i 


■  g* 


!     ! 


282 


SIR  llOHERT  M'CLUllE. 


were  already  flying  southward;  and  winter  was, 
therefore,  certainly  begun:  besides,  ice  began  to 
block  them  in.  Now,  on  the  1 6th,  they  were  oidy 
thirty  miles  from  the  open  sea;  but  a  heavy  pack 
of  ice  blocked  up  th«  entrance  of  the  strait,  and  the 
'  Ir  'estigator'  was  carried  back  twenty-four  miles 
in  three  days.     There  it  remained  stationary ;  and 


'  liivestiiritor,'  neai'  UariiiK'a  Ulauil. 

the  question  then  had  to  be  decided  whether  they 
should  return  to  the  south,  or  remain  to  winter  in 
the  pack. 

Tue  latter  plan  wj\8  one  which  had  never  been 
tried,  and  which  had  been  pronounced  to  be  certain 
destruction  by  many  great  authorities  on  the  matter. 
And  3'et,  to  lose  a  single  mile  of  Arctic  work  seemed 


i 


lIltE. 

;  nnd  winter  was, 
sides,  ice  began  to 
16tli,  they  were  only 
i ',  but  a  heavy  pack 
)f  the  strait,  and  the 
c  twenty-four  miles 
ned  stationary ;  and 


a  Ulaui). 

;cided  whether  they 
remain  to  winter  in 

lich  bad  never  been 
lunced  to  be  certain 
rities  on  the  matter. 
Arctic  work  seemed 


?■■ 


i 


WINTETUNO  IN  THE  PACK. 


9,H3 


so  preat  a  loss  that  it  was,  at  length,  decided  on. 
But  the  ice  moved  so  incessantly  that,  for  a  con- 
siderable time,  no  firm  spot  could  be  found  to  which 
to  attach  the  ship,  so  that  the  curtains  might  be 
nailed  down  over  her  to  protect  them  from  the  nip- 
ping, northern  blasts. 

Not  until  the  10th  of  October  did  the  ice  finally 
settle  down;  md  the  harassing  anxiety  which  Com- 
mander M'Clure  ucderwent  whilst  still  uncertain 
whether  the  vessel  could  be  kept  safe  amidst  its 
buffetings,  T/as  terrible. 

At  one  time  it  seemed  as  if  she  must  be  wrecked ; 
and  all  liauds  were  occupied  in  preparing  to  assist 
her  should  she  strike. 

The  sun  was  now  making  eacb  clay  a  smaller 
}\nd  a  smaller  arcb  in  the  heavens,  preparatory  to 
taking  his  leave  for  many  weeks ;  but  the  aurora 
WJ19  also  beginning  to  shine  out  with  wondrous 
brilliancy,  and  this  formed  a  very  considerable  sub- 
stitute for  his  light,  though  not  for  his  hei? 

Both  men  and  officers  were,  notwithstanding  the 
danger  of  their  position,  in  the  best  of  healtu  and 
spirits;  and  Captain  Parry's  plans  were  once  more 
followed  as  regarded  devices  for  their  amusement 
and  employment. 

Rambles  on  the  ice  iMScanie  frequent.  On  one 
occasion  Captain  M*Clure  and  a  party  had  netirly 
lost  their  lives  in  this  way,  having  wandered  far 
from  the  ship  and  lost  their  way. 

Much  of  the  preserved  meats  which  htui  been 
brought  with  them  becam6  putrid  also,  in  conse-r 


"IT 


$ 


,    »  SIR  ROBERT  M'CLURK.         ^-^      ^  ^ 

quence  of  injuries  received  by  .the  tins  (Hiring  tlie 

"  buffetings  wliich  tlie  sliip  liad  undergone ;  and  there 

was  already  a  danger  of  suffering  from  want  of  food. 

On  the  22nd  of  October,  the  Captain  determined 
on  attempting  to  reacli  the  sea  by  means  of  sledges ; 
and  leaving  the  ship  under  the  command  of  Lieu-, 
tenant  Haswell,  he  started  off  himself  with  a  party 
of  men.  It  would  be  too  long  a  story  to  describe  all 
tiie  hardships  which  they  endured  on  this  jouniey 
from  cold,  iiunger,  and,  above  all,  from  thirst.  Fre- 
quently the  pemmican  was  frozen  when  they  stopped 
for  a  meal;  and  sometimes  no  water  could  be  ob- 
tained to  slake  their  thirst ;  and  tli  snow  which  sur- 
rounded them  being  composed  of  salt-water,  only 
added  to  their  sufferings.  But  at  night,  when  the 
tent  was  pitched  and  the  candles  lighted,  the  Captain 
would  read  them  a  tale  out  of  « Chambers'  Miscel- 
lany,' whilst  they  mended  their  torn  garments  and 
boots ;  and  so  the  troubles  of  the  day  were  forgotten. 

At  length,  on  the  26th  of  October,  on  ascending 
a  small  hill,  the  sight  which  they  longed  to  see  burst 
upon  them.  There  were  the  two  coasts  of  Banks'  and 
Prince  Albert's  Lands  clearly  deiSned  on  either  side ; 
so  there  could  no  longer  be  any  doubt  as  to  the  water 
communication  all  the  way  up  the  strait  into  that 
broad  piece  of  water  known  as  Melville  Sound,  or 
Strait,  on  which  Parry  had  sailed  some  thirty  years 
before.  The  passage  was  there/ore  discovered ;  so, 
once  safely  back  in  their  native  land  without  loss  of 
ship  or  crew,  and  Captain  M'Clure's  voyage  would 
not  have  been  a  fruitless  one! 


Is 


db 


^'• 


he  tins  (Hiring  tin; 
dergone ;  and  there 
from  want  of  food. 
Daptain  determined 
r  means  of  sledges  ; 
command  of  Lieu- 
niself  with  a  party 
itory  to  describe  all 
ed  on  tliis  journey 
,  from  thirst,  Fre- 
wlien  they  stopped 
vater  could  be  ob- 
lii'  snow  which  sur- 
o{  salt-water,  only 
it  night,  when  the 
ighted,  the  Captain 
Chambers'  Miscel- 
torn  garments  and 
day  were  forgotten, 
ober,  on  ascending 
longed  to  see  burst 
ioasts  of  Banks'  and 
aed  on  either  side ; 
ubt  as  to  the  water 
he  strait  into  that 
VIelville  Sound,  or 
some  thirty  years 
>re  discovered ;  so, 
ind  without  loss  of 
re's  voyage  would 


RKIN-DKEll  SKKN  IN  WINTEIl. 


285 


Encamping  that  night  on  RusseU's  Point  they 
lighted  a  small  bonfire,  made  of  a  broken  sledge  and 
dwarf  willow,  and  enjoyed  an  extra  glass  of  grog  in 
celebration  of  the  event. 

One  strange  thing  happened  during  the  winter 
passed  by  the  '  Investigator'  near  Princess  Royal's 
Island,  which  must  be  related ;  while  others  —  be- 
cause similar  to  what  has  been  often  described  in 
these  pages  —  are  passed  by  ;  and  it  is  this.  A  man 
named  John  Eames  was  walking  out  on  the  floe, 
towards  the  end  of  January,  when,  to  his  utter  sur- 
prise, he  met  a  small  herd  of  rein-deer.  No  animals 
had  been  seen  for  a  long  time  ;  and  he,  like  all  the 
rest  of  the  world,  l)elieved  that  every  living  creature 
had  long  ago  migrated  southw.ards. 

John  Eames'  tale  was  good  news  at  the  ship: 
too  good  almost  to  be  true !  V)ut  there  were  many 
ready  to  go  and  see.  Hunters  sallied  forth  in  all 
directions ;  but  to  no  purpose ;  for  no  other  deer 
were  to  be  found  —  as  Captain  M'Clure  thought,  be- 
cause there  was  not  light  enough  to  see  them. 

Later  travellers  also  have  thought  with  him ;  and 
the  subject  having  been  pursued,  much  doubt  has 
been  thrown  on  the  subject  of  these  migrations  of 
the  animal  creation. 

The  great  object  of  the  expedition,  namely,  the 
search  for  Sir  John  Franklin,  was  not  meantime  for- 
gotten ;  and  no  sooner  did  the  sun  re-appear,  and  the 
weather  begin  to  break  a  little,  than  sledge-parties 
were  arranged  to  go  in  search.  And  very  gallantly 
did  the  men  bear  the,  to  them,  strange  sledge-drawing 


tm 


48u 


SIR  HOHKRT  M'CIJfllE. 


\^ 


iili! 


m 

8*1 


11: 

¥' 


work  —  the  frost-bites,  and  numberless  dangers  and 
liardsbips  of  the  journey ;  each  in  tlie  hope  of  stum- 
bling on  some  poor,  lost  fellow-countryman.  Banks' 
or  Baring's  Land  was  regularly  examined,  and  found 
to  be  an  island ;  Prince  Albert's  Land  was  crossed  as 
'  far  as  to  a  deep  inlet  in  WoUaston's  Land,  and  eagerly 
those  at  the  ship  watched  for  the  open  water,  which 
should  enable  them  to  proceed  on  their  voyage. 

Meantime,  during  all  these  months,  no  human 
beings  had  been  seen,  nor  any  other  trace  of  them  dis- 
covered, except  some  very  old  and  mosa-grown  ruins 
of  former  Esquimaux  dwellings.  Bnt  now  Lieutenant 
Haslar,  on  his  return  from  his  southern  journey,  met 
with  a  few,  from  whom  they  learnt  that  WoUaston 
and  Victoria  Lands  were  united ;  a  fact  which  was 
not  previously  known. 

Captain  I'T'Ciure  took  great  interest  in  these  poor, 
desolate,  and  yet  often  merry-hearted,  children  of  the 
north,  who,  since  the  lull  in  Arctic  discovery,  have 
been  thought  but  little  of  in  Christian  lands;  and  in 
his  journal  he  more  than  once  expresses  his  wish 
that  many  missionaries,  like  Mr.  Mierching,  could  be 
sent  among  them;  as  well  as  that  the  Hudson's  Bay 
Company  could  be  brought  to  recognise  their  duty 
with  regard  to  them,  as  representing  the  British  Go- 
vernment in  so  vast  a  territory. 

Spring  passed,  summer  came,  and  early  in  July 
the  floe  began  to  break  up.  On  board  the  'Inves- 
tigator' there  was  great  anticipation  regarding  that 
completion  of  tha  voyage,  which  they  fondly  believed 
to  be  close  at  hand.     But  the  breaking  up  of  the  ice 


ik=. 


niE. 


I)erles8  dangers  and 
I  the  hope  of  stuin- 
mtryman.  BankH' 
cainined,  and  found 
jand  was  crossed  as 
8  Land,  and  eagerly 

open  water,  which 
I  their  voyage, 
months,  no  human 
ir  trace  of  them  dis- 
I  moss-grown  ruins 
lut  now  Lieutenant 
ithern  journey,  met 
rnt  that  Wollaston 

a  fact  which  was 

erest  in  these  poor, 
ted,  children  of  the 
tic  discovery,  have 
itian  lands ;  and  in 
expresses  his  wish 
lierching,  could  be 
the  Hudson's  Bay 
cognise  their  duty 
ag  the  British  Go- 

and  early  in  July 
board  the  *  Inves- 
ion  regarding  that 
ley  fondly  believed 
king  up  of  the  ice 


■■■  f' ' 


■.PU 


^'^  ^4 


m 


I 


par.i5Siasms«iS2s^sE^^s 


iteisSSEAii."- 


$ 


ML 


■:;^K;r.A--^V^,,.5 


,Lu:-.:  p. 


— m-^^-la2J:^^y.;.,.i^'-ti--^  ,-.!-i1r/-f,t^^Xi-- 


•        'f- 


"iJSV^SWIKHPar^MUJtJH,--! 


THE  BAY  OF  MERCY. 


289 


only  renewed  the  old  dangers  of  the  last  autumn. 
Again,  by  no  possible  means,  could  the  '  Investigator' 
approach  tho  open  sea  nearer  than  a  distance  of 
twenty-five  miles. 

At  length,  therefore,  seeing  that  the  season  would 
soon  once  more  close  in,  Captain  iM'Clure  determined 
to  return  to  the  moutii  of  the  strait,  and,  coasting 
round  Banks'  Land,  attempt  the  passage  that  way. 
Accordingly  the  ship  was  put  about;  and  after  a 
number  of  hair-breadth  '  escapes  she  succeeded  in 
reaching  the  north-east  point  of  Banks'  Land,  where 
she  was  again  beset. 

While  waiting  to  proceed,  the  officers  landed, 
and,  rambling  into  the  interior,  discovered  a  great 
number  of  fossil  trees,  which  evidently  formed  a  part 
of  some  ancient  forest.  They  found  also  many  lakes, 
some  of  which  were  full  of  fish. 

Struggling  along  this  coast  they  at  length  fairly 
arrived  on  the  shore  of  Melville  Sound,  beyond  Capes 
M'Clure  and  Austen.  But  the  poor,  brave  vessel's 
voyage,  was  nearly  at  an  end.  In  attempting  to  pass 
through  some  narrow  passage  between  the  cliflfs  and 
the  old  ice,  the  •  Investigator'  one  night  ran  ashore  ' 
on  a  steep  bank.  It  was  only  by  dint  of  the  most 
violent  exertions  that  she  could  be  floated  again,  and 
got  into  harbour  in  a  large  bay ;  which,  in  gratitude 
for  their  deliverance,  was  named  '  the  Bay  of  Mercy.' 
Here  the  second  winter  waa  passed,  and  passed  on 
shorter  rations ;  this  having  now  become  necessary, 
in  consequence  of  their  precarious  situation.  Hap- 
pily, however,  the  land  was  found  to  teem  with  rein- 

U 


i  >■  :J 


■■:,\H 


% 


SP 


190 


SIR  ROHPniT  M'CLURE. 


deer  and  hares;  tlio  former  of  wliicl»  went  in  herds  of 
Bouietimea  a  Imndred  and  fifty  at  a  time. 

The  Hecond  Christimis-day  wan,  therefore,  a 
merry  one,  in  spite'  of  the  dreary  situation  of  thy 
crew  and  the  howling  of  the  numerous  wolves  whicli 
infested  that  land.  Indeed,  years  afterwards  some 
of  the  petty  ofificers  of  the  ship  declared  that  they 
had  never  passed  a  merrier  one.  The  doctor  also 
had  but  four  trifling  cases  on  his  sick  list ;  and  the 
sporting,  which  was  renewed  as  early  as  possible  in 
1852,  helped  to  preserve  this  comfortable  state  of 
things. 

One  non-commissioned  officer  greatly  distin- 
guished himself  as  a  sportsman  during  this  season, 
and  was  foun(i  also  to  be  a  man  '  good  at  need'  on 
other  occasions.  This  was  Sergeant  Woon,  an  in- 
stance of  whose  generous  bravery  may  here  be 
given.  There  was  a  coloured  man  among  the  crew, 
who  had  gone  out  sporting,  woundt^d  a  deer,  and 
then  lost  liis  way  in  a  fog.  Fatigued  and  half- 
frozen,  the  poor  fellow  lost  his  presence  of  mind,  and 
wandered  about  until  he  happened  to  be  discovered 
by  Sergeant  Woon.  But  the  horror  of  his  situation 
had  quite  taken  possession  of  the  man's  mind.  He 
fell  into  fits,  and  could  not  be  reassured  by  either 
promise  or  3ncouragement  of  any  kind.  Induced 
at  last  to  try  and  walk  a  little,  he  soon  sank  again 
on  the  ground,  bleeding  at  the  nose  and  mouth,  and 
writhing  in  convulsions.  It  was  evidently  vain  to 
think  of  his  saving  himself;  so  he  must  either  be 
abandoned  as  the  prey  of  wolves,  or  Sergeant  Woon 


L'RE. 

ich  went  in  herds  of 

u  time. 

waM,  therefore,  a 
iry  situation  of  tliy 
iierouH  wolvefl  wiiicli 
U'H  afterwanlH  mww 
\  declared  that  tliey 
;.  The  doctor  ulmt 
is  sick  list ;  and  the 
early  aw  possible  in 
omfortahle    state  of 

cer  greatly  diet  in - 
during  this  season, 
n  '  good  at  need'  on 
jeant  Woon,  an  in- 
vevy  may  here  be 
Hi  among  the  crew, 
)un(l»?d  a  deer,  and 
Patigued  and  half- 
esence  of  mind,  and 
Qed  to  be  discovered 
rror  of  his  situation 
i  man's  mind.  He 
reassured  by  either 
,ny  kind.  Induced 
he  soon  sank  again 
lose  and  mouth,  and 
,8  evidently  vain  to 
I  he  must  either  be 
s,  or  Sergeant  Woon 


SKROEA>'^  WOON. 


21)1 


must  drag  him  home.  But  lie  was  a  heavy  man, 
and  the  sergeant  had  to  carry  his  own  rmisket,  witli 
which  lie  dared  not  part.  He  hesitated  not,  how- 
ever, but  slinging  the  latter  over  his  shoulder,  and 
taking  the  man's  arms  round  his  neck,  he  set  out 
towards  the  slnp. 

He  gained  some  relief  by  rolling  the  poor 
fellow  down  every  ravine,  and  thus  succeeded  in 
getting  to  within  a  mile  of  the  ship;  then,  finding 
his  own  strength  utterly  fail,  he  tried  once  more  tins 
effect  of  entreaties,  that  the  man  would  try  and 
arouse  himself,  but  the  only  reply  was  a  retpiest  to 
be  left  alone  to  die. 

Nothing  remained,  tlierefore,  but  to  lay  him 
down  in  the  deep  snow,  and  start  off  himself  for 
assistance,  which,  happily,  he  soon  met.  But  when 
the  party  who  accompanied  Woon  returned  to  where 
he  had  left  his  companion,  they  found  him  stitF  and 
rigid,  with  his  mouth  so  tightly  closed  that  it  had 
to  be  violently  forced  open  in  order  to  administer 
restoratives.  His  life  was  saved  after  all;  and 
seldom  perhaps  has  any  life  been  saved  under  such 
circumstancea. 

Early  in  April,  Captain  M'Clure  determined  on 
crossing  the  ice  in  a  sledge,  and  paying  a  visit  to 
Melville  Isbnd,  where  he  hoped  to  find  some  of 
Captain  Austen's  ships,  which  might,  he  thought, 
be  able  to  give  them  assistance.  By  the  28th  they 
reached  the  spot  where  Parry  had  left  his  monu- 
mental stone;  but,  to  their  bitter  disappointment, 
they  read  also  thereon  the  addition  inscribed  by  Lieu- 


-  i- 


i 

1 


■m^:'mKmm>^.- 


KIR  BOBEIIT  M'CLURK. 


II", 
1  (ji.- 


w 


i 


i 


tenant  MTlintock,  who  liad  conductod  to  the  spot  one 
of  the  Mlcdgc-partied  sent  on  by  Gaptuin  Atuten. 

Thin  hope  having,  therefore,  vnniHlied,  they  re- 
turned apfftin  to  the  Bhip,  where  all  were  Btill  well, 
and  fotind  that  to  their  stock  of  proviHions  had  l»een 
added  during  their  absence  twenty  hc^ad  of  fine  deer. 
Mercy  Bay   had   proved,   indeed,  a  good   harbour 


Molvlllo  Inland. 

for  them,  and  had  sometimes  yielded  them  three 
fresh  meals  a-day.  And  yet,  by  the  lOtli  of  May, 
scurvy  had  made  its  unwelcome  appearance  among 
the  men  ;  and  notwithstanding  all  the  care  of  the 
doctor  and  captain,  it  continued  to  make  progress. 

The  next  summer  was  a  dreary  one,  and  less 
game  wa«  shot,  so  that  not  until  the  stock  of  venison 
was  exhausted  did  Sergeant  Woon  succeed  in  shooting 


««ii»mi»im»iiM,t 


IJRK. 

uctod  to  tlie  spot  one 
!!aptuin  AiiMten. 
,  vaniMlied,  tlit>y  re- 
!  ull  worn  Btill  woll, 
proviHions  liad  \)een 
ty  liciud  of  fine  defr. 
d,  a  good   luirbour 


yielded  them  three 
y  the  10th  of  May, 
5  appearance  among 
all  the  care  of  the 
to  make  progress, 
reary  one,  and  less 
tlie  stock  of  venison 
1  succeed  in  shooting 


TWO  PAIITIK.S  TO  00  H<>MK. 


2i):\ 


nome  tine  miiHk-oxcn,  who»i«  flt-nh  yiolded  (!47  llic  of 
good  food,  for  which  all  were  grutoful. 

Until  nearly  the  end  of  AugUHt  there  wiw  not 
oven  a  hope  of  getting  the  niiip  into  optn  water ; 
and  that  hope  Hoon  died  out  l)y  thf  duHing  up  again 
of  the  one  narrow  open  lead  of  water  whicli  had 
ftppeari'd,  and  hy  the  fulling  of  the  temperature. 

It  now  iH'cauje  a  pn^HHing  ([UfHlion  whether  or 
not  the  Hhip  should  bo  abandoned ;  jw  it  wu« 
doubtful  how  long  the  crt-w  could  hold  out  on  their 
present  store  of  provisions,  and  all  were  thinner  and 
weaker  than  they  used  to  Ik;. 

Captain  M'Clure,  however,  determined  himself 
to  stick  l)y  the  ship  to  the  very  last;  so,  aftt-r  due 
deliberation,  he  assembled  his  men,  and  told  them 
that  in  April  two  parties  should  go  home  —  one  via 
the  Mackenzie  Kiver,  and  the  other  by  Beochey 
Island,  where  Captain  Auften's  notice  at  Melville 
Isle  told  them  they  would  find  provisions,  and  a 
bout  with  which  they  might  gain  the  Danish  settle- 
ments of  Greenland.  Meantime  he  would  stay 
himself,  with  thirty  of  tho  strongest  men,  spend  a 
fourth  winter,  and  then  retreat  on  Lancaster  Sound, 
ehould  no  help  have  previously  come  to  them. 

All  the  men  acquiesced  cheerfully  in  this  ar- 
rangement, and  so,  much  in  the  same  manner  a< 
before,  passed  this  third  winter ;  except,  we  must 
add,  that  less  game  was  caught  than  during  the 
last. 

When  much  hard  work  had  to  be  done  on  their 
present  short  rations  hunger  was  felt,  it  is  true  ;  but 


.    '    ,'i 


WLWgHwmw.a 


■s^/^iis**^ 


^94 


SIR  ROBERT  M'CLURE. 


"1 


when  once  shut  in  during  the  actual  winter,  and 
with  little  to  do,  the  'health  of  the  crew,  to  some 
extent,  improved,  and  the  most  praiseworthy  good- 
humour  still  reigned  on  board. 

April  came ;  the  preparations  for  the  two  jour- 
neys had  gone  on,  and  all  was  now  ready.  The 
poor  sickly  fellows  were  trying  to  brace  themselves 
up  for  the  Journeys,  which  were  certainly  their  only 
hope  of  escape — though  a  poor  one  it  was,  after  all; 
and  those  to  be  left  had  been  giving  into  their 
comrades'  charge  the  letters  to  wives,  mothers,  or 
friends,  who  probably  were  even  then  mourning 
them  as  dead ;  while  their  iron-hearted  captain  had 
been  endeavouring  to  cheer  up  the  spirits  of  his 
whole  crew,  just  then  depressed  by  the  occurrence 
of  the  first  death,  when  the  most  extraordinaiy 
and  entire  change  in  the  state  of  affairs  took 
place. 

The  captain  and  first  lieutenant  were  walking 
near  the  ship,  and  talking  of  the  possibility  of 
digging  a  grave  for  the  poor  fellow  who  had  just 
died,  in  ground  which  was  so  hard  frozen,  when 
suddenly  a  man  was  perceived  coming  towards 
them,  who  appeared  unlike  any  of  tiieir  own  men. 
Feeling  certain,  however,  tb-';  no  others  were  near, 
and  supposing  that  some  one  had  been  trying  on  a 
new  travelling  dress,  they  continued  io  advance 
while  Rtill  conversing  together.  A  strange  figure  he 
was,  with  a  face  black  as-  ebony^  gesticulating  like 
an  Esquimaux,  and  shouting  :n  a  jaanner  which 
biought  the  two  officers  to  a  stand-fitill. 


RT  M'CLURE,  .' 

ing  the  actual  winter,  and 
lealth  of  the  crew,  to  some 
le  most  praiseworthy  good- 
board, 
iparations  for  the  two  jour- 
all  was  now  ready.  The 
trying  to  brace  themselves 
ch  were  certainly  their  only 
a  poor  one  it  was,  aft«r  all; 
ad  been  giving  into  their 
itters  to  wives,  mothers,  or 
were  even  then  mourning 
ir  iron-hearted  captain  had 
iheer  up  the  spirits  of  his 
epressed  by  the  occurrence 
3n  the  most  extraordinary 
the    state    of  affairs  took 

st  lieutenant  were  walking 
cing  of   the    possibility  of 

poor  fellow  who  had  just 
was  so  hard  frozen,  when 
jerceived  coming  towards 
ike  any  of  tiieir  own  men, 
•,  th-';  no  othjrs  were  near, 
e  one  had  been  trying  on  a 
hey  continued  io  advance 
ether.  A  strange  figure  he 
as-  ebony^  gesticulating  like 
uting  fn  a  jaanner  which 

to  a  stand-still. 


T" 


THE  RFSCUE. 


295 


At  length  the  young  fellow  came  near  enough 
for  them  to  hear  his  words. 

'  I  'm  Lieutenant  Prim,  late  of  the  *  Herald,' 
and  now  in  the  *  Resolute.'  Captain  Kellet  is  in 
her  at  Dease's  Island.' 

And  such  a  rush  took  place,  and  such  a  grasp- 
ing of  hands  followed,  as  probably  Lieutenant  Prim 
would  never  forget.  The  news  spread  like-  wild- 
fire; sick  men  leapt  from  their  beds;  workmen 
dropped  their  tools ;  and  all  pressed  forward  to  learn 
how  relief  had  come,  and  to  meet  the  two  dog- 
sledges  which  were  following  on  their  visitor's  steps. 

We  must  now  explain  how  all  this  was  brought 
about. 

Captains  Eoss,  Austen,  and  Penny  had  been 
unsuccessful  in  their  efforts,  as  has  been  stated  some 
pages  back ;  but  Lady  Franklin  could  not  be  satis- 
fied, nor  could  she  rest  until  another  expedition  was 
resolved  upon.  There  were  also  now,  not  one,  but 
two  missing  expeditions  to  search  after,  and  others 
to  be  anxious  about  beside  Sir  John  and  his  gallant 
crew.  Others,  therefore,  besides  herself,  were  urging 
this  matter  on,  and  amongst  them,  Mr.  Cresswell, 
whose  son  was  with  Commander  M'Clure. 

This  gentleman  not  only  rightly  judged  of 
the  course  taken  by  the  '  Investigator,'  but  also  as 
correctly  conjectured  whereabouts  she  then  lay,  as 
well  as  that  some  of  her  crew  would  visit  Melville 
Island.  His  letter  addressed  to  the  Admiralty  decided 
the  matter  ;  and  it  was  determined  to  send  out  four 
more  ships,  under  the  command  of  Captain  Belcher  ; 


^ 


SIR  KOBERT  M'CLURE. 

two  of  which  were  to  proceed  up  Wellington  Chan- 
nels and  two  direct  to  Melville  Island.  These 
latter  vessels  were  commanded  by  Captains  Kellett 
and  M'Clintock,  and  very  promptly  they  fulfilled 
their  taflk.  They  went,  and  formed  a  depot,  but 
found  no  cairn  or  notice  of  M'Clure's  party  having 
preceded  them,  and  unable  to  do  more  that  season, 
they  returned  to  winter  quarters ;  but  were  no  so(>ner 
settled  down,  than  Captain  Kellett  beg-an  to  send  out 
parties  to  scour  the  country. 

One  of  these  visited  Winter  Harbour,  and  on  a 
close  inspection  of  Parry's  famous  sandstone  rock  a 
new  inscription  lu^i,  their  astonished  eyes  ;  and  they 
C'jjld  scarcely  credit  their  senses  when  they  read  of 
Commande'-  M'Clure's  visit,  of  his  having  really 
accomplished  thepas^agw.  and  of  his  present  position. 

It  was,  however,  too  lat«  to  proceed  that  season ; 
and  they  feared  that  before  they  could  reach  Mercy 
Bay  in  the  spring,  the  crew  of  the  '  Investigator' 
would  already  have  left  it  ly  some  other  way.  We 
have  seen  that  the  relief  was,  notwithstanding,  in 
time,  and  that  by  this  means  the  lives  of  manj  brave 
men  were  probably  saved. 

The  sledge-journeys  might  now  be  abandoned, 
and  almost  the  first  thought  was  how  the  good 
news  could  be  most  quickly  forwarded  to  England. 

It  was  ;»oon  decided  to  send  Lieutenant  Cress- 
well  on  to  Beechey  Isle,  with  this  view  ;  and  there, 
fortunately,  the  'Phoenix'  happened  to  touch,  so 
that  he  very  soon  had  the  honour  of  presenting  his 
despatches. 


THE  'investigator'  ABANDONED. 


297 


jllingtoD  Chan- 
Island.  These 
!:!aptain8  Kellett 
r  they  fulfilled 
i  a  depot,  but 
i's  party  having 
ore  that  season, 
were  no  socner 
gan  to  send  out 

rbour,  and  on  a 
mdstone  rock  a 
eyes ;  and  they 
en  they  read  of 

having  really 
resent  position. 
!ed  that  season ; 
Id  reach  Mercy 

'  Investigator' 
ther  way.  We 
itbstanding,  in 
I  of  manj  brave 

be  abandoned, 
how  the  good 
;d  to  England, 
jutenant  Cress- 
ew ;  and  there, 
i  to  touch,  so 
presenting  his 


It  was  on  the  7th  of  October,  1853,  that  the 
tidings  thus  reached  the  Board  of  the  Admiralty. 

Having  now  obtained  supplies  for  his  men, 
Compiander  M'Clure  earnestly  desired  to  remain 
with  his  vessel  until  she  could  be  got  out  of  the 
ice. 

But  he  felt  obliged,  before  coming  to  any  de- 
cision, to  submit  the  matter  of  the  men's  health  to 
a  medical  examination,  and  the  report  was  so  un- 
favourable that  he  felt  himself  compelled  to  abandon 
the  vessel  and  return  home  with  all  his  men. 

When  this  much-enduring  orew  and  its  com- 
mander reached  England,  they  found  the  nation 
almost  engrossed  wiib  the  Russian  war ;  and  many 
of  them,  therefore,  felt  that  the  honours  which  they 
received  were  hardly  proportioned  to  the  sufferings 
which  they  had  undergone,  or  o  what  they  had 
accomplished. 

Commander  M'Clure,  however,  received  his  com- 
mission at  once,  and  it  was  dated  back  from  the 
day  of  the  great  discovery;  as  were  also  those  of 
some  of  his  officers.  Nor  was  it  long  before  Her 
Majesty  conferred  on  him  the  customary  honour 
of  knighthood. 

The  question  next  to  be  taken  into  considera- 
tion, waa  that  of  the  reward  of  10,000^.,  offered  by 
Government  to  the  first  finders  of  the  passage.  And 
it  might  have  been  expected  that  this  would  have 
been  immediately  decided  in  favour  of  the  *  Inves- 
tigator's' crew.  But  a  letter  addressed  to  the 
Government  by  Lady  Franklin,  who  was  naturally 


:   ? 

'  i' 
■  \ 


p\--^ 


mmm 


I 


mti^t^ 


SIR  ROBERT  M'C'LURE. 

jealous  for  her  Imsband's  fame,  caused  some  little 
delay.  She  argued  that,  until  his  papers  came  to 
hand  and  his  course  had  been  traced  out,  it  would 
be  impossible  to  decide  to  whom  this  honour 
belonged. 

This  plea  was  admitted,  ana  after  passing  a 
high  encomium  on  the  courage  and  zeal  shown  by 
Sir  Robert  M'Clure  and  his  men,  a  committee  of  the 
House  of  Commons  at  length  decided  that  the  '  In- 
vestigator's'  crew  having  discovered  a  north-west 
passage,  merited  the  10,000^.  as  their  just  reward. 

The  uncertainty  of  Arctic  voyages  was  after- 
wards shown  by  the  result  of  Captain  Gollinson's 
voyage.  His  ship,  the  '  Enterprise,'  notwithstand- 
ing her  superior  sailing  qualities,  did  not  succeed  in 
rounding  Point  Barrow  during  the  same  season  as 
did  her  consort. 

The  next  year  he  followed  exactly  in  the  '  In- 
vestigator's '  track,  as  far  as  to  the  Pri'ace  of  Wales' 
Straits,  but  neither  was  he  able  to  carry  his  vz,„^i 
that  way  into  the  ocp?.n.  He  wintered  m  1851  on 
the  western  coast  of  Prince  Albert's  Land,  and  in  • 
1852  in  Cambridge  Bay,  U>  the  north  of  Dease's 
Strait,  and  while  explo'-ing  the  eastern  coasL  of 
Victoria  Land  he  caroo  on  traces  of  Dr.  Rae's  expe- 
dition of  the  previous  year,  and  also  bought  from 
the  Esquimaux  some  articles  which  he  believed 
to  have  belonged  to  the  'Erebus'  and  'Terror.' 
Captain  CoUinsou  returned  by  the  same  wav  that 
he  had  come,  afiber  passing  a  third  winter  on  the 
north  coast  of  America. 


MHUMMHWW 


ised  some  little 
papers  came  to 
i  out,  it  would 
1    this    honour 

ifter  passing  a 
.  zeal  shown  by 
)mmittee  of  tlie 
1  that  the  '  In- 
l  a  north-west 
just  reward. 
ges  was  after- 
ain  Gollinson's 
'  notwithstand- 
not  succeed  in 
iiame  season  as 

ly  in  the  '  In- 
ri'ace  of  Wales' 
arry  his  ^'z,atii 
ei  in  1851  on 
Land,  and  in  • 
rtb  of  Dease's 
3tern  coasL  of 
Dr.  Rae's  expe- 
>  bought  from 
h  he  believed 
and  'Terror.' 
ame  way  that 
winter  on  the 


NEWS  FROM  DR.  RAF. 


990 


It  was,  of  course,  for  the  assistance  of  his  vessel, 
as  well  as  of  that  of  her  consort,  and  the  Franklin 
expedition,  that  the  four  ships  under  the  command  of 
Sir  Edward  Belcher  and  Captain  Kellett  had  been 
sent  out  from  England.  These  had  all,  more  or  less, 
got  into  difficulties;  but  as  they  were  nothing 
compared  with  what  other  crews  had  endured,  the 
surprise  of  the  '  Investigators '  was  great  indeed, 
when  they  found  that,  contrary  to  the  opinion  of 
all  his  officers,  and  in  spite  of  the  remonstrances  of 
Captain  Kellett,  Sir  Edward  Belcher  was  determined 
to  abandon  all  four  vessels,  as  well  as  the  *  Investi- 
gator,' and  crowding  all  the  men  on  board  of  three 
depot  and  store-ships,  to  return  at  once  to  England. 

The  result  of  such  a  step  was,  of  course,  that  a 
general  feeling  of  gloom  and  depression  filled  the 
minds  of  all  interested  in  the  still  missing  crews; 
and  a  court-martial  sat  to  examine  into  this  conduct 
of  Sir  Edward  Belcher.    • 

Just  at  this  moment,  however,  news  arrived  from 
a  quarter  whence  they  were  least  expected.  Dr.  Rae, 
lately  the  companion  of  Richardson,  haAang  been 
appointed  by  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  in  1853  to 
complete  the  survey  of  the  western  shore  of  Boothia, 
fell  in  with  a  party  of  Esquimaux  in  Pelly  Bay, 
which  lies  in  the  south  of  the  gulf  of  Akkolee ;  and 
from  one  of  them  he  learnt  that  a  party  of  Kabloonaa 
— white  men — had  died  of  hunger  a  long  way  to  the 
west  of  where  he  then  was,  and  beyond  a  great  river. 
But  the  man  said  that  he  had  never  been  there  him- 
self, and  could  not  travel  with  them  so  far.     Dr.  Rae 


r 
t 


U  WtffiWimiiMifilglMillllilMIBl 


mmm^ 


■\9 


300 


SIR  ROBERT  M'CLUHE. 


pursued  his  inquiries,  and  elicited  from  different 
persons  other  particulars,  which  led  him  to  helieve 
that  the  river  spoken  of  was  no  other  than  Back's, 
or  the  Great  Fish  River,  and  also  that  these  un- 
fortunate persons  were  certainly  a  part  of  Franklin's 
expedition. 

When  first  seen  they  were  about  forty  in  number, 
and  headed  by  a  man  who  seemed  to  be  an  officer ; 
they  were  dragging  a  boat  and  sledges  southward 
over  the  ice.    They  could  not  speak  the  Esquimaux 
language  well  enough   to  be   understood;   but  by 
signs  they  made  the  natives  understand  that  their 
ships  had  been  crushed  by  the  ice,  and  that  they 
were  going  where  they  hoped  to  find  deer.     This 
was  about  the  year  1850 ;   and  later  in  the  same 
season,  but  before  the  breaking  up  of  the  ice,  some 
graves  were  found   by  the  Esquimaux,  and  about 
thirty  corpses,  «ome  in  a  tent,  others  under  a  boat, 
and  others  scattered  about.     But  the  most  dreadful 
fact  of  all  was,  that  from  the  mutilated  state  of  some 
of  the  bodies,  as  well  as  from  the  contents  of  the 
cooking-vessels,  there  was  reason  to  believe  that  the 
unhappy  men  had  been  reduced  even  to  cannibalism. 
At  the  same  time  there  was  nothing  to  lead  Dr.  Rae 
to  suppose  that  any  violence  had  been  offered  to 
them  by  the  natives ;  although  some  of  the  articles 
thrown  away  by  the  white  men  were  iii  their  posses- 
sion ;  and  Dr.  Rae  purchased  several  things  of  them : 
amongst  others,  a  silver  star,  on  which  were  en- 
graved the  words  *  Sir  John  Franklin.'     No  writingr 
or  papers  of  any  kind  had  come  to  hand ;  and  many 


u  ^WHtJtMiiTftiTTi^riiiiinriWATWii'riitwniwiiiTiiwa 


THE  REWARD. 


801 


from  different 

I  him  to  believe 

ler  than  Back's, 

that  these  un- 

ktt  of  Franklin's  % 

forty  in  number, 
to  be  an  officer ; 
dges  southward 
the  Esquimaux 
rstood;    but  by  • 
itand  that  their 
,  and  that  they 
nd  deer.     This 
?r  in  the  same 
>f  the  ice,  some 
aux,  and  about 
i  under  a  boat, 
>  most  dreadful 
3d  state  of  some 
contents  of  the 
relieve  that  the 
to  cannibalism, 
to  lead  Dr.  Rae 
)een  offered  to 
of  the  articles 
iu  their  posses- 
hings  of  them : 
hich  were  eu- 
'     No  writingr 
md ;  and  many 


were  the  treasures  supposed  to  be  still  lying  on 
the  desert  ice.  While,  therefore,  to  Dr.  Rae  and 
his  men,  was  adjudged  the  promised  reward  of 
10,000^  as  the  first  discoverers  of  some  traces  of  the 
expedition,  a  very  general  desire  was  felt  to  pursue 
the  research  still  further. 

Before,  however,  we  go  on  to  relate  the  successful 
termination  of  this  deeply  interesting  inquiry,  we 
must  turn  aside  for  a  while  to  speak  of  an  American 
expedition,  which  came  first  in  order  of  time,  and 
which,  besides,  was  one  of  the  most  extraordinary  and 
daring  on  record.    ,,    ,  ,     , 


M'".^^>  :■:»«.. 


'■      . 


rl 


lit? 


tm 


fgfftr 


h 


302 


'  I    • 


^"  '- 


,  ^ .   , 


■>,-■  c'l 


CHAPTER  XV. 

Jj;     ^;  DR.   KANE'S  EXPEDITIOy.      ' 

Dr.  Elisha  Kane,  who,  under  Lieutenant  De  Haven, 
had  sailed  three  years  before  in  the  first  Orinnell 
expedition,  was  appointed  by  the  American  Admiralty 
to  the  command  of  a  new  Arctic  expedition  in  1853. 
It  had  for  its  object,  like  the  first,  the  discovery 
of  Sir  John  Franklin's  crews ;  and  though  chiefly 
supported  by  Mr.  Grinnell,  it  was  also  very  greatly 
assisted  by  the  generous  donations  of  the  well-known 
Mr.  Peabody  of  London. 

The  plan  proposed  was  to  sail  straight  up  Baffin's 
Bay,  and  thus  enter  the  Arctic  Ocean  through  what 
was  called  Smith's  Sound;  and  this  idea  seems  to 
have  originated  with  Dr.  Kane  himself,  whose  mind, 
since  his  first  voyage,  had  been  constantly  occupied 
with  the  matter. 

He  thought  that  he  should  thus  more  quickly 
reach  the  ocean ;  that  he  should  have  tei-rajirma  as 
the  basis  of  his  operations ;  animal  life  to  sustain 
travelling  parties ;  and  the  co-operation  of  Esquimaux 
almost  to  the  extreme  north,  as  it  was  known  that 
settlements  of  them  were  to  be  found  even  as  hijrh 
as  Whale  Sound. 


m 


'<kr 


■iimi'iiniii|imii»piii|iijii_ 


•/•> 


nant  De  Haven, 
e  first  Orinnell 
rican  Admiralty 
edition  in  1853. 
t,  the  discovery 
though  chiefly 
so  very  greatly 
the  well-known 

ight  up  Baffin's 
I  through  what 
idea  seems  to 
If,  whose  mind, 
antly  occupied 

more  quickly 
ter'rafirma  as 
life  to  sustain 
1  of  Esquimaux 
as  known  that 

even  as  high 


VISIT  TO  LICHTENFELS. 


Ml 


In  the  'Advance'  brig,  and  accompanied  by  only 
seventeen  men,  including  offieern,  Dr.  Kane  there- 
fore left  New  York  on  the  30th  May,  1853.  Of 
tliese,  Mr.  Brooks  was  the  first  officer,  Mr.  Hayes 
was  the  surgeon,  and  Mr.  Sontag  the  astronomer ;  a 
Dane,  named  Carl  Petersen,  undertook  to  act  as  inter- 
preter ;  and  oa  reaching  Greenland,  an  Es(]uimaux, 
called  Hans  Christian,  was  engaged  as  a  hunter, 
after  having  first  shown  his  skill  by  spearing  a  bird 
on  the  wing.  .      >u  ■"■:' 

In  eighteen  days  the  '  Advance '  arrived  at  New- 
foundland, and  there  obtained  some  stores  of  fresh 
beef  to  add  to  their  rather  slender  stock.  The 
Governor,  also,  made  them  the  valuable  present  of 
a  team  of  Newfoundland  dogs. 

From  Newfoundland  they  steered  for  the  Green- 
land harbour  of  Fishernaes,  which  is  situated  on  the 
south-west  coast,  and  is  famous  both  for  its  dry  and 
healthy  climate  and  for  its  cod-fisheries.  Here  their 
arrival  was  quite  an  event;  and,  accordingly,  the 
whole  population  came  out  to  receive  them.  The 
officers  were  hospitably  entertained  by  Mr.  liassen, 
the  governor  of  the  place ;  and  from  thence  Dr. 
Kane  went  to  visit  Lichtenftls,  the  ancient  seat  of 
Greenland  missions,  of  which  he  had  read  much. 
The  old  house  seemed  to  have  been  built  in  the 
time  of  Hans  Egede  himself.  It  was  a  sober,  old- 
fashioned  building ;  and  he  tells  us,  that  '  it  was 
almost  with  feelings  of  devotion '  that  he  approached 
it.  The  inmates  appeared  to  be  frugal  in  their 
habits,  and  very  poor ;  yet  of  so  independent  a  spirit 


y  ■ 


! : 


1 ,  f  -^ 


■■'•ui-r^j.-  niu . . - i^k^^^^ . t.B^at:--.=.-» ■ir^-<\.ii£ia,^ifi^.j^,  .^^r"'. 


804 


DR.  KANE. 


that  they  could  scarcely  be  prevailed  on  to  accept  a 
Binall  prettent  of  potatoes.  They  were,  however, 
people  of  some  education  and  intellifcfence. 

Much  of  this  Greenland   coast  is  very  pictur- 
esque, especially  during  the  summer  season. 

The  Danish  settlements  have  l)een,  for  the  most 
part,  fixed  on  remarkable  points ;  and  each  one  is 
famous  for  some  article  of  trade.  Cliffs,  which 
sometimes  assume  the  grandest  forms,  and  which 
are  composed  of  variously  coloured  strata  of  earth 
and  rocks,  with  sometimes  a  glimpse  of  the  red  snow 
between  their  chasms,  edge  the  coast ;  while  all  the 
back  coimtry  seems  to  be  one  great  exi)an«e  of 
glaciers,  which  here  and  there  shed  off  their  mighty 
icebergs  into  the  sea.  To  these,  for  want  of  any- 
thing more  secure,  they  were  at  times  obliged  to 
fasten  the  vessel,  in  order  to  avoid  being  beset  in  the 
ice;  yet  it  proved,  on  one  occasion,  but  a  sorry 
alternative. 

After  eight  hours'  hard  labour  in  heaving, 
planting  ice  ->,nchors,  and  so  on,  they  had  scarcely 
succeeded  in,  m  they  thought,  securing  the  ship, 
wlken  a  series  of  loud,  cracking  sounds  above  her, 
and  the  dropping  of  a  shower  of  small  pieces  of  ice, 
excited  alarm;  and  only  just  time  had  they  to  get 
free  again  when  the  whole  face  of  the  berg 
fell,  '  crashing  like  near  artillery.'  On  the  5th  of 
August  they  passed  the  crimson  cliffs  noticed  by  Sir 
John  Ross,  and  perceived  them  even  at  ten  miles  off. 
Next  day  they  reached  Hakluyt's  Island,  with  its 
tall  spire  of  gneiss,  which   forms  a  valuable  land- 


01  >i  J I  nil  uiiiuuinaMmMMUMnaMK! 


T 


i  on  to  accept  a 
were,  however, 
lilfence. 

is  very  pictur- 
iT  Beasoii. 
jn,  for  the  most 
.nd  each  one  is 
CliffH,  which 
rafl,  and  which 
strata  of  earth 
of  tlie  red  snow 
:;  wliile  all  the 
eat  ex])anAe  of 
>ff  their  mighty 
T  want  of  any- 
mes  obliged  to 
ing  beset  in  the 
n,  but  a  Borry 

ir  in  heaving, 
y  had  scarcely 
iring  the  ship, 
nds  above  her, 
11  pieces  of  ice, 
lad  they  to  get 
of  the  berg 
On  the  5th  of 
noticed  by  Sir 
it  ten  miles  off. 
sland,  with  its 
valuable  land- 


I'UI-USHINd  Nt)UTHWAHI». 


•M)o 


mark  for  u  long  ditttunee  round.  '  It  would,'  Dr. 
Kane  observes,  'have  formed  a  fine  study  of  colour 
for  an  artist,  being  covered  with  this  crimsim  snow, 
interHperned  with  lovely  green  patches  of  moss,  and 
now  aud  then. a  piece  of  the  bare  brown  sandstont'.' 

On  the  7th  they  passed  Cape  Alexander,  and 
when  fairly  within  Smith's  Sound  began  to  nmke 
caches  of  provisions  in  various  places,  to  facilitate 
their  future  onward  march,  and  to  build  cairns  as 
signs  by  which  others  might,  if  necessary,  follow 
them.  Signs  of  winter  were  already  visible;  and 
though  determined  to  push  as  far  to  the  north  that 
seanon  as  possible,  Dr.  Kano  felt  that  one  place  must 
be  storwl,  to  serve  as  a  retreat  in  case  of  necessity, 
and  he  selected  Littleton  Islaiul  for  the  purpose.  On 
it  the  lifeboat,  provisions,  and  a  few  blankets,  were 
left,  while  a  further  depot  was  made  on  the  mainland. 

Greatly  to  their  surprise,  traces  of  human  beings 
were  visible  even  here;  and  from  some  tombs  va- 
rious little  implements  were  carried  away  as  speci- 
mens of  native  ingenuity.  E8(|uimaux,  not  being 
able  to  dig  graves  for  their  dead,  place  them  in  a 
sitting  posture  in  little  cairns,  and  these  they  hold 
too  sacred  to  be  disturbed. 

Keeping  to  his  purpose,  Dr.  Kane  resolutely 
pressed  on  amid  floes  and  icebergs,  which  almost 
hourly  threatened  the  party  with  destruction ;  and 
towards  the  end  of  the  month  a  storm  came  on,  which 
greatly  increased  their  danger.  For  many  days  the 
gale  blew  on  ;  and  when  at  last  it  subsided,  most  of 
the  men  were  for  returning  to  winter  in  the  soutlu 

X 


,* 


-.j  If 


f 


I 


^■imm 


.KM) 


DR.  kanf:. 


1 1l 


It  wiiM  (ill  that  thuir  mptuin  c»)ultl  tlo  to  porMrndf 
rliPin  to  iM^rwovoro  for  a  whiU'  longer,  hikI  tlu  n  Ia) 
(iHtal)liHli  tlu'mw>lv«>H  in  tlio  iiumt  uvuiluhhi  npol, 
in  oniiT  that  they  might  he  reaiiy  for  work  wlieu 
Mpring  canio.  At  lengtli  he  (leterinined  on  pro- 
ceechiig  in  a  hoi't,  witii  a  few  njcii,  in  order  to  judge 
whereabout*;  wouhi  l)c  the  hent  wintering  ground  ;  and 
he  choHo  MesHrn.  IkookM,  Hontag,  HonHall,  M'dary, 
Uihy,  Hhike,  an<i  Morton,  to  form  the  erew  of  the 
'  Forlorn  Hope,'  aa  being  Home  of  tho  ntrongoHt, 
and  most  (hiring  of  hiu  eompanionfl.  lieHideH  tlie 
olotheH  tliat  tliey  wore,  they  had  butrah)-robeH  for 
Hleeping-dreHHeH,  while  each  carried  hiH  girdle  full  of 
woollen  sockH,  and  a  tin  cup,  with  a  Bheath-knife  at 
the  belt ;  and  a  Houp-pot  and  lamp  were  taken  for 
the  nieHH  in  general. 

After  a  time  the  icy  belt  roujid  the  coiwt  became 
impracticable,  and  the  boat  had  to  Ijo  hauletl  up 
under  the  Hhelter  of  a  hummock,  while  they  puBlied 
on  in  the  nledge. 

No  place,  however,  was  found  8o  » ligible  as  tho 
bay  in  which  the  •  Advance'  lay,  so  it  waw  resolved  to 
winter  in  Rensselaer  Harbour.  Hitherto  it  had 
been  one  constant  bkze  of  daylight;  but  now  the 
heavens  began  co  wear  more  sober  tints,  and  a  i^w 
stars  appearerl.  The  change  was  very  agreeable  i 
tirst.  It  was  expected  that  the  sun  woidd  disapp.tar 
in  this  latitude  about  the  10th  of  October,  and  much 
work  had  to  be  done  during  the  daylight  that  re- 
maineti,  as  it  was  advisable  to  empty  the  hold,  and 
ileposit  its  contents  in  Butler  Island.     Besides  this, 


I    ilk. 


iliii 


lifei 


MM 


I'NSAI/riNO  PIU)VISI()NS. 


m 


A  ilo  to  pcrMuulf 
>K«'r,  hikI  then  U) 
t  Hvuiliil)I(;  Hpot, 
y  for  work  wlieu 
L)riiuni!(l  on  pro- 
in  order  to  judj^e 
riiiff  gntiiiid  ;  and 
HonHull,  iVI'Uary, 
1  tlio  crew  of  the 
of  the  HtronguHt 
iifl.  ]U;Hid(!H  thu 
hutTiih)-rohc>H  for 
I  hiH  girdlo  full  of 
a  Hhcath-knife  at 
ip  were  taken  for 

the  coiuit  became 
to  Ijo  hauled  up 
vhilo  they  puHhod 

80  eligible  as  the 
it  waH  resolved  to 

Hitherto  it  hod 
lit;  but   now  the 

tints,  and  a  kw 
very  agreeable  i 
I  woidd  diHapp.tar 
utober,  and  much 
daylight  that  re- 
pty  the  hold,  and 
id.     HoHidcs  this. 


they  Wfi<    ahvady  at  a  Iomh  about  winter  provlnlonM, 
an  no  game  hiul   b.en  wen  in  SniitirH  Sound,  and 
they  ha*l    lonu-  out  entirrly  without  the  prewrvnl 
im-atH  g.Mcrally  uwil ;  ho  that  all  their  Halt  meat  had 
to  be  iniMiilti'il  by  u  twelve  liourH'  imnierHiun  in  an 
mljoining  frenh-water  pond,  on  which  the  icy  covering 
had  to  \w  broken  for  that  purpoH*'.     The  Halt  tiwij 
and  pickled  cabbage  were  treate«l  in   like  manner. 
Here,  then,  in  thiu  harbour  of  HeuHnelaer,  in  the 
midut   of  Home   little    iHlandn,   which  pntteeted    her 
from  the  violent  anHanltH  of  moving  maHHcn  of  the 
ice,  the  •  Advance'  was  mxtn  frozen  in,  and  her  crew 
had  to  resign  theiuHelveH  to  the  long  (hirk  wint<tr 
which  woidd  soon  come  on  them,  in  a  more  noi-therly 
latitude  than  any  previouMly  reached  by  a  European, 
except  in  S|)itzbergen,  where  the  clinmte  is  much 
modified  by  the  circtimstanco   of  its  conniHting  of 
inlands,   ;ind    also   by    the    influence    of    the   Gulf 
Streanj,  which  reaches  even  those  shores. 

All  the  rest  of  the  daylight  was  occijpied  in 
makicj<  caches  of  provisions ;  for  it  was  Dr.  Kane's 
plan  to  have  a  chain  of  these  depots,  from  each  of 
which,  unencumlK-red  by  heavy  leads,  he  hoped  to 
travel   far    in    different  directions. 

The  jtmrneys  were  to  be  performed  in  sledges 
drawn  by  dogs,  of  which  he  had  a  number,  botli 
Ewiuimaux  and  Newfoundland.  The  latter  he  em- 
ployed himself  in  training  to  draw  in  a  regular  har- 
ness, two  a-breast,  giiided  by  the  voice  alone,  without 
the  whip;  and  six  made  a  powerful  tean>.  The 
sledge  was    made  of  American  hickory,   carefully 


IBWIIIiii 


■ii 


w  P 


308 


DR.  KANE. 


jointed  in  its  various  parts  by  thongs  of  seal-skin,  so 
that  it  had  no  stiff  hinges,  but  yielded  to  the  least 
inequality  of  surface.  It  proved  a  very  satisfactory 
little  carriage,  and  was  named  *  Little  Willie.' 

The  Esquimaux  dogs,  which  were  ir  a  half-wild 
state,  and  much  resif  nibled  wolves,  were  kept  for  the 
long  tough  journeys,  in  which  their  patient  en- 
durance, their  speed,  and  their  sagacity,  proved 
invaluable.  A  larger  sledge  was  used  for  the  heavy 
parties,  which  was  named  '  Faith.' 

To  drive  an  Esquimaux  team  is  a  serious  affair, 
and  so  fatiguing  that  Esquimaux  drivers  tra"el  in 
couples,  and  change  continually.  The  whip  used  is 
of  seal-hide,  six  yards  long,  with  a  very  short  handle 
of  only  sixteen  inches.  It  must  be  used  with  a 
masterly  sweep,  and  the  driver  must  be  able  to  hit 
any  particular  dog,  and  to  accompany  the  stroke 
with  a  resounding  crack,  bringing  the  whip  clearly 
back  again ;  which,  of  course,  is  not  easy,  as  it 
is  apt  to  get  entangled  among  the  dogs  and  lines ; 
and  sometimes  in  travelling  over  the  ice  the  sledge 
will  come  to  immense  rents  and  fissures,  which 
have  to  be  leapt  by  the  whole  team.  On  one  occa- 
sion the  poor  dogs  failed,  and  all  fell  in,  so  that 
their  drivers  had  to  cut  the  traces  and  haul  them 
out,  which  was  done  with  difficulty.  Another  time 
one  of  the  drivers  was  flung  out,  and  narrowly 
escaped  being  drawn  under  the  ice  by  the  rapid  tide. 

This  winter  was,  indeed,  a  dark  one  ;  and  in  Dr. 
Kane's  journal  we  read  neither  of  snow-blink  nor 
aurora  lights  as  substitutes  for  the  sun,  though  the 


wi«iJHMi»gni'mfiiji,>'ini.!ju  T»g? 


ANE. 


ABSOLUTE  DARKNESS. 


309 


by  thongs  of  seal-skin,  so 
,  but  yielded  to  the  least 
proved  a  very  satisfactory 
lied  *  Little  Willie.' 
(rhich  were  ir  a  half-wild 
wolves,  were  kept  for  the 
which  their  patient  en- 
l  their  sagacity,  proved 
je  was  used  for  the  heavy 
Faith.' 

X  team  is  a  serious  affair, 
uimaux  drivers  tra"el  in 
iiaily.  The  whip  used  is 
,  with  a  very  short  handle 
tt  must  be  used  with  a 
•iver  must  be  able  to  hit 
o  accompany  the  stroke 
bringing  the  whip  clearly 
ourse,  is  not  easy,  as  it 
aong  the  dogs  and  lines ; 
ig  over  the  ice  the  sledge 
snts  and  fissures,  which 
lole  team.  On  one  occa- 
and  all  fell  in,  so  that 
le  traces  and  haul  them 
iifficulty.  Another  time 
flung  out,  and  narrowly 
the  ice  by  the  rapid  tide. 
I,  a  dark  one  ;  and  in  Dr. 
jither  of  snow-blink  nor 
s  for  the  sun,  though  the 


moon  and  stars  often  shone  out  with  wonderful  bril- 
liancy. This  was  only  in  fine  weather,  however  ;  at 
other  times  it  was  absolutely  dark ;  and  men  and 
dogs  alike  felt  the  depressing  influence  of  so  long  a 
night.  Many  of  the  latter  soon  died,  indeed,  from  an 
anomalous  disease,  produced.  Dr.  Kane  says  he  firmly 
believes,  by  no  other  cause.  This  disease  seemed 
to  be  entirely  mental,  and  no  amount  of  anxious 
care  availed  to  save  the  valuable  creatures.  It  began 
with  a  kind  of  epilepsy,  whicli  was  soon  followed 
by  a  state  of  lunacy,  or  rather  idiocy.  The  poor 
animals  wovdd  bark  frenziedly  at  nothing,  walk 
about  in  straight  or  curved  lines  with  the  utm^ot 
perseverance,  move  about  in  the  most  senseless 
manner,  and  then  relapse  into  hours  of  moody  si- 
lence. Generally  symptoms  of  lock-jaw  came  on 
before  they  died. 

By  the  time  when  perpetual  daylight  had  suc- 
ceeded to  this  perpetual  night,  only  six  dogs  remained 
of  the  nine  Newfoundlands  and  thirty-five  Esqui- 
maux ;  and  the  men  were  many  of  them  suffering  from 
scurvy,  and  generally  debilitated.  They  had  occupied 
themselves  as  best  they  could  by  lamp  or  moonlight, 
some  in  writing,  some  in  drawing  or  making  maps, 
some  in  ship- work  or  in  attending  to  the  business  of 
freshening  the  meats;  others  in  working  up  the 
skins  into  various  articles  of  clothing;  others  in 
writing  up  the  journals  or  books  of  observations; 
while  chess  and  other  games  often  finished  the 
monotonous  days. 

The  cold,  as  may  be  imagined,  had  been  intense, 


i-ji  S 


■ ..  liiWifmmfiiiiiiiiiiWiiiiBiiiiimwiiiti 


1 

.ill. 


mmsmm-^' 


Wi",: 


310 


DUt.  KANE. 


the  thermo,netor8  ranging  from  60°  to  75°  below 

mtigated  darkness,'  which  niade  the  midnight  of 
Sir  Edward  Parry  i»  lat.  74°  47',  so  that  Lb  a 
winter  was  probably  never  passed  b;  any  Europeans 

more  -n  ':k'''"'"''^^  ^'"^«  coast  becamfon" 
more  .«,ble,  the  ice-foot,  or  belt  as  Kane  prefers  to 
caU  It,  wa«  perceived  to  have  undergone  many 
changes.  This  ice-belt  consists  of  an  immense  Tone 
of  ice,  ^incli  extends  all  along  the  shores  from  the 

highest  latitudes,  though  somewhat  reduced  in  thick! 
ness  in  summer,  it  never  disappears.  It  served  our 
^avellers  for  a  kind  of  high  ro^,  and  was  aTsom" 
seasons  a  tolerably  level  one 

soon^as'ThT"'''  ^^^"^  ''''^'  «"^  ^"^^  ^-^t'""  '•^ 
soon  as  the  spring  appeared;  and  in   the  end  of 

March   preparations    were   making    for    a    genera 

advance,  when    tlie    appearance  of  three  of    heir 

number,  who  had  been  absent,  startled  the  worke 

m  the  cabin.     These  were  Messrs.  Sontag,  Oh  sen 

and  Petersen  who,  swollen  and  haggard,  and  scarce"; 

Pour  of  tlieir  companions  were  still  in  the  ice 
unable  to  come  on,  being  frozen  and  disabled    tJey 

notd^f  t  T  "'"  "^  '""^  "'«  news,  but  coJd 
mtht T  f  V^"'/'"  "'^  '^^^^««»  '-  ^»^i«h  they 
ttlll  t".  '  ^"^  ""''^  «"^^°"3^  «»king  fast 

lost,  HO,  while  a  hasty  meal  was  being  got  ready,  and 


"■-" lili^ijlJHWwnigwytiii.iyji^i)^.,,..,,..,^,-,    , 


-»?i>i  •<ii«ii^ki>fa««v 


S()°  tu  75°  below 
Pply  of  fuel.     By 
Kich  *  the  state  of 
tlie  inidniglit  of 
,  so  tliat  suob  a 
y  any  Europeans. 
)a8t  became  once 
1  Kane  prefers  to 
indergone   many 
an  immense  zone 
shores  from  the 
1> ;    and   in   the 
■educed  in  tbick- 
s.     It  served  our 
nd  was  at  some 

t  and  return  as 
in   the  end  of 
for    a    general 
three  of  their 
led  the  workers 
3ontag,  Ohlsen, 
trd,  and  scarcely 
alarming  story, 
ill   in   the   ice, 
disabled:  they 
news,  but  could 
1  in  which  they 
y  sinking  fast 
instant  must  be 
got  ready,  and 


■i 


mtmmmm 


!*>     I' 

!¥■<'  3 

Vf 
If:- 


":':afAcg$nTii  «;i  DuaMtijftiiiiiiiijwauwiii 


THE  KEStUE  PARTY. 


313 


•  Little  Willie,'  a  tent,  &c.  propared,  OliLsen,  the  most 
conscious  of  the  party,  having  had  some  refrewh- 
nient,  was  strapped  on  to  the  sledge  in  a  fur  biig, 
wrapped  in  dog-skins  and  eider-down  ;  and  Dr. 
Kane  with  nine  men  set  out. 

The  temperature  was  7^**  below  zero,  and  they 
knew  not  wliich  way  to  go.  Mr.  Ohlsen  fell  asleep 
almost  immediately,  but  soon  awoke  in  a  confused 
state  of  mind,  and  could  give  no  help.  There  was 
nothing  for  it  but  to  abandon  the  sledge  and  dis- 
perse in  search  of  footprints ;  but  it  was  absolutely 
requisite  to  keep  constantly  moving  in  order  to 
avoid  freezing;  and  so  they  continued  for  some 
hours,  till  Mr.  Ohlsen,  being  a  little  recovered,  was 
liberated  from  his  bag  and  set  on  his  feet :  but  now 
some  others  of  the  party  were  seized  with  trembling 
tits  and  short  breath,  and  Kane  himself  fainted  t"-'  '? 
upon  the  snow.  And  so  for  eighteen  hours,  withoi.v 
food,  they  wandered  on,  until  suddenly  Kane  ex- 
claimed that  lie  thought  he  saw  a  broad  sledge- 
track.  They  followed  it,  and  soon  came,  first  to 
footsteps,  then  to  a  small  American  flag  hung  on  a 
hummock,  and  then  to  the  tent  close  by,  where  lay  in 
the  darkness  the  four  poor  fellows  stretched  on  their 
backs,  whose  burst  of  gratitude  was  felt  fully  to 
repay  every  one  for  the  twenty-one  hours'  march. 

The  tent  would  only  hold  eight  men  ;  so  those  of 
the  fifteen  who  could  not  scjueejse  in  were  obliged  tp 
keep  from  freezing  by  incessant  exercise.  A  two-hours' 
sleep  for  each  of  the  two  parties  was  all  the  halt  that 
could  be  managed  ;  and  then  the  sick  were  carefully 


i 


ss^- 


mmmmmmi 


m^ 


ill 


T" 


314 


DH.  KANh:. 


>^^ 


sewed  up  m  fur«   and  packed  in  a  ba!  of  buffalo 
r.je8,  the  whole  being  tightly  lashed  together  and 
covered  over  so  ,ia  only  just  to  leave  breathing-room  ; 
and  fhe  party  8tart«.l  back  again.     Strange  to  say 
they  marched  on  for  six  hours  cheerfully;  but  at  the 
end  of  tlmt  time  all  began  to  feel  a  most  alarming 
failure  of  strength ;   and  some  of  the  poor  fellows 
even  entreated  to  be  allowed  to  sleep..    No  efforts 
or  commands  indeed  sufficed  to  hinder  it;  so  with 
much  difficulty,  for  they  had  scarcely  strength  enough 
loft,   the  tent  was   pitched,  and  all   who  could  be 
crowded  in  were  left  under  Mr.  M'Gary's  charte 
Kane  himself,  with  one  companion,  pushing  on  to' 
the   half-way    tent,    in.  order  to   t.iaw    woter  and 
pemmican  by  the  time  the  others  came  up      For 
four  hours  these  two  walked   on,   never   suffering 
themselves  to  cease  talking,  that  they  might  keen 
themselves  awake,  yet  scarcely  knoxving  what  they 
said  or  did,  or  why  they  took  any  particular  direc- 
tion.    In  fact,  neither  of   them   was  in  his  right 
senses;  and  when   they  reached  the  tent  they  iust 
crawled    into  their    sleeping-bags,   and    slept    on 
Qreamily  for  tlie  next  three  hours.      When  Dr.  Kane 
awoke,  his  long  beard  was  frozen  to  his  buffalo-skin  • 
and  his  companion  had  to  cut  him  out  with  his 
jack-knife      The  others  came  ^r.  ;^  due  time  much 
better,  and  after  partaking  of  the  food  which  had  been 
prepared,  all  proceeded  again  on  their  way,  and  now 
comfortably,  under  a  clear  sun  and  without  wind. 

Ifc  was  desperate  work,  notwithstanding,  to  per- 
form the  rest  of  the  journey.   They  lost  their  strength 


"samammmmmmr 


Mi 


a  heil  of  l)ii<ralo 
bed  together  and 
3  breathing-room ; 

Strange  to  say, 
irfuliy ;  but  at  tlie 
a  most  alarming 
the  poor  fellowH 
leep..     No  efforts 
nder  it ;  «o,  with 
>■  strength  enougli 
11   who  could  be 
I'Gary's  charge, 
I,  pushing  on  to 
.law    wpter  and 
came  up.     For 
never   suffering 
hey  might  keep 
wing  wha*  they 
particular  direc- 
as  in  his  right 
3  tent  they  just 

and  slept  on 
When  Dr.  Kane 
(lis  buffalo-skin ; 
n  out  with  his 
due  time  much 
which  had  been  , , 
ir  way,  and  now 
ithout  wind, 
:anding,  to  per- 
it  their  strength 


PKOPLE  HOLLOAINO  ASHDUE!' 


315 


and  their  self-control ;  and  to  assuage  their  thirst 
could  not  resist  eating  8no>v,  though  it  burnt  and 
bliMered  their  mouths,  and  caused  many  to  become 
speechless.  When  they  reached  the  brig,  none  of 
them  were  in  a  sane  condition ;  but  all,  under  ju- 
dicious treatment,  recovered,  except  two,  who  died 
in  spite  of  every  effort  to  save  them.  Some,  how- 
ever, were  obliged  to  have  parts  of  their  feet  ampu- 
tated. One  of  the  poor  fallows  who  died  was  seized 
with  lock-jaw  on  the  day  before  his  death.  It  was 
whilst  watching  beside  him  that  they  received  their 
first  visit  from  the  Esquimaux.  '  People  holloaing 
ashore  1 '  cried  the  deck-watcli ;  and  there  they  were 
truly,  dotting  the  snow  in  considerable  numbers, 
and  vociferating,  '  Hoah,  ha,  haP  '  Ka,  kaah!^ 
'  Ka,  kaahr  but  in  no  friendly  tones  :  indeed  their 
violent  gesticulations  were  at  first  alarming.  It  was 
soon  perceived,  however,  that  no  weapons  were  in 
their  hands :  and  Dr.  Kane  therefore,  calling  Petersen 
to  be  his  interpreter,  went  forth  unarmed  to  parley 
with  them. 

A  tall,  powerful  fellow,  with  a  swarthy  skin  and 
jet-black  eyes,  came  forward  to  meet  him;  and 
others,  at  his  signal,  soon  crowded  round,  seemingly 
in  a  perfectly  peaceable  mood ;  so,  after  awhile, 
many  were  admitted  on  board  ship.  They  had 
sledges  drawn  by  dogs,  which  they  managed  ad- 
mirably, and  were  a  very  strong  set  of  men,  some 
of  them  able  to  combat  singly  with  the  Polar  bear. 

The  first  who  came  was  named  Metek ;  he  was 
dressed  in  a  sort  of  fur-hooded  jacket,  with  l)ear- 


:  r 


mmmi 


mm 


mm^' 


316 


nn.  KANt:. 


Hkin  breecJies,  and  Iwofs  in  wliidi  were  concealed 
knives.  He  and  liis  companions  remained  for  a 
considerable  time  on  board,  examining  everytliinic 
stealing  wliatever  they  could,  and  laughing  loudly  at 
the  Ignorance  of  the  whit«  men,  Iwcause  they  could 
not  understand  their  language.     Tiusy  saw  a   great 


Uetek. 


deal  of  these  people  that,  winter;  and  though  at  first 
they  were  shy  and  suspicidus,  yet  they  afterwards  l)e- 
came  the  firm  friends  of  the  whites,  Dr.  Kane  takinP- 
care,  from  the  first,  to  impress  them,  by  eveiy  possible 
means,  with  an  idea  of  his  own  and  his  companions' 


^ismmmmm 


^^'"■''^^ffSS*M^k^l'  "^ " 


FOLLOWING  TIIK  KHQIIMAUX. 


m 


h  were  coiiocaled 
i  romninetl  for  h 
iiiin^r  everything; 
iiughing  loudly  at 
ecause  they  could 
rhey  saw  a  great 


d  though  at  first 
!y  afterwards  l)e- 
Dr.  Kane  takimar 
)y  every  possible 
his  companions' 


superior  strength,  in  order  to  keep  up  a  salutary  awo 
in  their  minds. 

As  soon  as  the  ice  broke  iip  a  little  the  Esqui- 
maux took  their  departure :  but  they  were  afterwards 
met  with  again.  In  fact,  it  was  sometimes  found 
advisable  to  follow  in  their  track ;  as  they  always 
knew  where  food  was  to  be  had.  The  whole  country 
wiw,  indeed,  as  well  lown  to  Ihem  as  a  si  .?p  v-alk 
is  to  a  shepherd ;  ley  noted  every  change  of  wind, 
or  season ;  studied  the  heavenly  bodies ;  and  could 
even  predict  certain  changes  in  the  weather :  while 
their  advice  about '  unts  was  often  invaluable.  The 
flesh  of  the  walrus  seemed  to  form  their  principal 
food:  but  more  to  the  south  they  also  procured 
whales  and  sea-unicorns. 

During  the  summer  many  parties  were  sent  out 
from  the  bay  in  which  the  '  Advance'  was  impri8or?d ; 
one,  led  by  Mr.  lionsall  and  Mr.  M'Gary,  was  sent 
to  endeavour  to  surmount  an  enormous  glacier,  named 
after  Humboldt,  which  lay  at  twelve  days'  journey 
from  the  brig,  in  a  large  bay,  which  they  named 
after  Mr.  Peabody:  but  that  proved  perfectly  im- 
practicable ;  besides  which,  as  the  disagreeable 
discovery  was  then  rotlde  that  the  bears  had  been 
committing  great  depredation  on  the  depots  which 
they  bad  made  on  the  way,  they  could  not  remain 
qi^t  long. 

These  creatures  also  more  than  once  interrupted 
their  progress  during  their  marches:  and  on  one 
occasion  a  monstrous  fellow,  t'o  their  great  dis^nist, 
paid  them  a  visit  in  the  tent  when  all  were  asleep. 


tf'^t^r? 


"if-tamrnktmi 


ai8 


HR.  KANK. 


after  n  long  (fnyV  j„„r„.y.  a  Hcmtcl.ing  n«iH«  on 
the  Hnow  o„.«ido  tirnt  diHturhed  Mr.  M'Sary ;  and 
r<.UH,„g  .„,„HeIf,  1,0  p,.rceived  that  the  hear  ZSk- 
2-nd  the  tent.  A  loud  cry  aroused  Iuh  com- 
panionn;  l,„t  not  oefore  the  creature  had,  to  their 
Ju'rror,  preHeute<l  himnelf  at  the  entrance; where  he 
Htood  quietly  Hurveyiug  the  inmateH.  Th^re  Z  an 
iiiHtant  blaze  of  paper  torcheH  fh^Jr  .«i 
def«n,.o  ..II  fi,  •  tore  les,  tJieir  only  weapons  of 

hu[  of  M        M  "ir'"'  ''«^'"«»^«"  •«»  in  the  Hledgo; 

mt  of  these  Mr.  Bear  took  no  notice  whatever,  though 

^y  were  thn.Ht  under  his  nose.      In  this  terrlSe 

ddemma,  a  man  named  Tom   Hiokey  saved  them 

knit''  ouTof't"?  ?  '"''  "  '""^  ^"^  ^'■^'^  •»«  <='-P 
knife,  out  of  winch  he  contrived  to  squeeze  himself- 

.on  se.mg  one  of  the  supports  of  the  tent,  he  gave 

e  beast  such  a  vigorous  blow  on  the  nose  wi«.  il 

that  he  was  g.ad  to  retreat.     On  this.  Tom,  pursuing 

-advantage,  rushcxi  to  the  sledge,  an'd  sna'tZg  up 

the  brute  s  head  was  pierced  through  with  a  ball 
and  all  were  safe.  It  was  the  last'time  that  they 
slept  unarmed  in  a  tent.  ^ 

Han:"r)'"V'''T'""  '''''  ™"*^"  ^'y  ^'-  Morton  and 
Hans  Chnstmn  towards  the  north.     This  was  the 

most  remarkable  of  all  their  journeys.      TraTdlLg 

over  the  ,ce,  which  in  some  places  Z  found  tlbe  J 

unsafe  that  the  dogs  had  to  be  coaxed  along  tZ 

which  had  been  named  Tennyson's  Monument,  and 
got  among  bergs  whi^h  stood  so  closely  together  ^ 
to  obstruct  all  view  in  front.     These  past,  ttylZ 


i'Jmm 


ratohing  noi«e  on 
ir.  M'Oary;  and 
lie  Iwiir  wiiH  wulk- 
krousecl  IiIh  com- 
•re  had,  to  Mieir 
itrancc,  wliero  lie 
'•     There  was  an 

only  weapons  of 
eft  in  the  sledgo ; 
whatever,  though 

In  this  terrible 
key  saved  them 
it  with  his  clasp 
squeeze  himself: 
he  tent,  he  gave 
he  nose  with  it 
i,  Tom,  pursuing 
nd  snatching  up 
1  another  instant 
?h  with  a  ball, 

time  that  they 

^r.  Morton  and 
This  was  the 
s.  Travelling 
i  found  to  be  so 
ted  along,  they 
atural  minaret, 
»fonument,  and 
iely  together  as 
past,  they  soon 


H 


i 


■  iiBIHMIIiW 


Brvmniiwiiiiiniiimiiiii 


nMIIIPtnMMMKi 


HOISTINr  THK  AMKRICAN  KI,A(». 


321 


peneivfKi  land  on  iho  w« Htcrn  Hule ;  iinil  named  the 
pajwaK*'  KonniHly  Channel. 

Hero  they  encountered  a  \mir  and  her  luh,  and 
a  fierce  com  hat  onHuod  between  her  lind  the  dogg. 
The  ohi  one  wum  at  hist  killed  by  a  Hhct  from  Hans; 
and  the  little  one  then  hi»  fiercely  defended  its  mother's 
body  from  the  dogn,  that  it  was  obliged  to  be  de- 
Bpatched  with  HtoncH. 

On  tlii»  journey  they  reached  their  most  northerly 


Duck's  Caiio,  in  Koiiiiuily  C'liiuuml, 

point,  and  named  it  Mount  Parry.  Here,  with  pa- 
triotic pride,  they  hoisted  the  American  flag,  and  sa- 
luted it.  Dr.  Kane  believed  the  water  here  to  be 
open  sea  :  a  part  of  the  Arctic  Ocean,  in  fact. 

The  summer  was  wearing  away,  and  still  the  ice 
did  not  break  up  :  ho  that  anxious  fears  were  felt  lest 
another  winter  should  have  to  be  passed  at  Rensselaer 
Harbour,    as   their   health   was  greatly  weakened; 

y 


.-^-.*ai»*a>v:'ss?,3j^h*^ 


n:^r^: 


•!;-5Ks 


^^dJ>i<«.-V  :^: 


•32^: 


322 


PR.  KANK. 


and  f'"iy  1 1  ail  neither  fuel  nor  provisions  to  enable 
them  wifely  to  do  so.  But  Dr.  Kane  could  not  as 
yet  think  of  deserting  the  brig,  and  therefore  formed 
a  plan  for  communicating  with  Sir  Edward  Belcher's 
squadron  (m  Beechey  Island.  He  started  with  five- 
of  the  strongest  men  in  an  open  boat;  a  kind  of 
navigation  especially  dreaded  in  tlie  open  sea  by 
experienced  seamen ;  but  they  soon  encoxintered 
storms,  such  jvs  they  had  not  been  prepared  for.  The 
ice  also  blocked  them  ut  ;  and  it  wius  found  impos- 
sible even  to  reach  Ca,  f>  Parry :  so  there  was  no 
alternative  but  to  return  to  the  brig  and  put  up  a 
beaon,  in  case  any  rescue-party  should  be  looking 
for  them. 

On  arriving  at  the  brig,  however,  it  was  found 
tliat  many  thov  ght  an  escape  overland  possible  that 
year ;  and  broken  down  by  scurvy  as  they  were,  with- 
out provisions,  or  hope  of  provisions,  suited  to  their 
circiUTJstances,  Dr.  Kane  felt  that  he  had  no  right  to 
control  the  men  in  this  matter,  and  therefore  deter- 
mined to  allow  each  one  to  act  for  himself.  Tbe 
residt  was  that  eight  determined  to  stay,  and  nine 
to  go.  These  latter  went  with  an  assurance  given 
that,  should  they  wish  to  return,  they  would  be  wtil- 
comed  back.     They  remained  away  several  months 

—  lorg  and  weary  months,  too,  they  must  have  been 

—  and  at  length,  after  having  suffered  what  it  wo"ld 
fill  a  volume  to  describe,  they  were  obliged  to  go 
back  to  their  comrades. 

Those  who  remained  endeavoured  to  accommo- 
date themselves  to  circumstances,  and  to  adopt  the 


9mm 


mmmftm 


^iwr^-mmjimmii'^m 


\NK. 


nor  provisions  to  enable 
it  Dr.  Kane  could  not  as 
rig,  and  therefore  formed 
^itli  Sir  Edward  Belcher's 
d.  He  started  with  five 
n  open  boat;  a  kind  of 
led  in   the   open  sea  by 

tliey  soon  encountered 
t  been  prepared  for.  The 
md  it  was  found  impos- 
Parry:  so  there  was  no 
>  the  brig  and  put  up  a 
party  should  be  looking 

af,  however,  it  was  found 
e  overland  possible  that 
iurvy  as  they  were,  with- 
rovisions,  suited  to  their 
that  he  had  no  right  to 
ter,  and  therefore  deter- 
0  act  for  himself.     The 
nined  to  stay,  and  nine 
?ith  an  assurance  given 
urn,  they  would  be  wt^I- 
ed  away  several  months 
)o,  they  must  have  been 
?  suffered  what  it  wo"ld 
aey  were  obliged  to  go 

ieavoured  to  accommo- 
inces,  and  to  adopt  the 


■I- 


.  ^; 


i1 


gjni't'BwaMaeiiaaaaiwiii 


irmstn 


"•"""""" -'i^rnvsasigs 


ETAH. 


325 


habits  of  the  EHquimaux  —  filth  aud  extravagaiicb 
excepted.  They  thus  tried  wliether  white  nieu 
could  live  like  these  people;  but  the  experiment 
could  not  be  called  a  successful  one. 

A  place  called  Etah  was  the  regular  haunt  of  the 
Esquimaux ;  and  there  our  party  often  visited  them, 
and  became  ac(|uainted  with  M etek  and  his  relations ; 
Accomodah,  his  fat  young  son  ;  Paulik,  his  nephew ; 
and  many  others  with  curious  names,  and  still  more 
curious  ways. 

Dr.  Kane  once  went  even  so  far  as  to  enter  one 
of  their  tents,  and  throw  himself  down  amongst  the 
heap  of  human  beings  to  sleep.  The  hut  was,  indeed, 
e.>  hot,  that  sleep  came  naturally  to  him.  It  was 
but  wven  feet  by  six,  and  contained  thirteen  persons , 
some  of  whom  —  that  is,  the  women  —  were  cooking, 
each  in  her  '  kothok,'  slices  of  meat  cut  from  a 
walrus. 

Dr.  Kane  was  always  saluted  as  '  Nalegak,'  or 
Great  Chief,  wherever  he  went :  and  so  pleased  were 
they  with  this  visit,  that  they  almost  deafened  him 
with  shouts. 

A  woman,  whose  name  he  translates  as  Mrs. 
Eider-duck,  constituted  herself  his  attendant,  and 
prepared  his  breakfast — a  lump  of  boiled  blubber 
and  a  choice  cut  of  meat 

These  poor  children  of  the  North  differ  most 
wonderfully  from  (hose  who  have  become  civilized 
and  christianized,  as  the  southern  tribes  have. 

If  they  have  no  laws,  they  are  certainly  bound 
by    their   own  peculiar  customs;    which    have,  no 


,  « 


i 


n 


MB.j».iMWmwwt»MMWif,»inimmiuM' « 


.M^ 


326 


DR.  KANE. 


doubt,  been  those  of  their  ancestors  from  time 
immemorial.  One  of  these  singular  customs  is,  that 
of  holdmg  weeping  meetings,  not  only  for  the  death 
of  a  friend,  but  for  that  of  a  dog,  the  failure  of  a 
hunt,  the  breaking  of  a  walrus-line,  or  any  other' 
calamity. 


Mrs.  EMur-ducIc 

They  hold  theiv  angekolcH,  or  magic-men,  in  great 
esteem.     These  angekoks  are  the  general  counsel- 
lors m  time  6f  trouble;  in  sickness  they  powwow 
or  prescribe;  and  when  death  follows,  they  direct  as 


-S^-A/jslSK^Br!  '■"'JiS-S--";" 


estors  from  time 
ir  customs  is,  that 
>nly  for  the  death 
,  the  failure  of  a 
ine,  or  any  other 


[ic-men,  in  great 
;eneral  counsel- 
I  they  powwow, 
s,  they  direct  as 


THK  ANGKKOKS. 


.J27 


to  the  raatiner  in  which  grief  is  to  be  aliown.  A 
husband,  for  instauQC,  after  burying  his  wife,  may 
be  obliged  alwaya  to  wear  his  nessak,  or  hood,  or 
forbidden  to  eat  some  kind  of  food,  or  even  to  ab- 
stain from  seal  or  walrus-hunting  for  a  year.  They 
seem  to  have  but  little  that  can  be  called,  religious 
belief  of  any  kind,  though  they  evidently  do  believe 
in  certain  supernatural  influences. 

When  they  were  once  thoroughly  persuaded  of 
the  superior  powers  of  the  whites,  a  treaty  between 
the  two  partiej  was  proposed  by  Dr.  Kane,  in  which 
it  was  stipulated  that  certain  mutual  kindnesses 
should  be  exchanged^  and  no  harm  done  by  either 
to  the  other  party.  This  treaty  was  solemnly  ratified  ; 
'  and,  to  the  honour  of  the  natives,  strictly  kept. 

We  cannot  follow  the  poor  travellers  through 
the  sufferings  of  this  winter.  Getting  sometimes  a 
supply  of  the  eider-ducks,  sometimes  some  walrus- 
flesh,  sometimes  a  little  fish,  but  often  wanting  food, 
they  struggled  through,  though  not  without  further 
losses  by  death:  But  when  the  next  June  came, 
there  was  no  doubt  as  to  the  duty  of  abandoning  the 
vessel,  and  attempting  the  long  and  perilous  voyage 
back  in  boats.  When  preparing  for  departure,  they 
received  much  assistance  from  their  Esquimaux 
friends,  who  evidently  took  leave  of  them  with  sin- 
cere sorrow.  Hans,  indeed,  had  already  deserted  to 
them;  and  it  is  not  improbable  that  they  tempted 
him  away. 

Dr.  Kane  says  also,  that  he  and  his  companions 
had  received  so  many  kindnesses  from  them,  and  had 


% 


''■f. 


•  : 


n 


m 


^-   , 


328 


DR.  KANE. 


got  to  know  them  individually  so  well,  that,  as  he 
took  leave,  his  heart  warmed  towards  them. 

Every  birth,  marriage,  or  death,  which  had  hap- 
pened  of  late  in  this  tribe,  though   scattered  over 
Home  SIX  hundred  miles,  had  been  discussed  and  re- 
ported to  him;  for  every  man  knows  every  other  in 
this  tribe:  so  that  scarcely  one  seemed  a  stranger 
o  their  famishing  visitors.     The  poor  people  took 
the  greatest  pains  to  instruct  them  which  would  be 
the  safest  and  shortest  route;  and  on  the  18th  of 
June  the  three  boats  started.     Not,  however,  until 
Dr    Kane  had  told  them   what  he  knew  of  their 
southern  brethren,  of  their  wonderful  and  their  far 
happier  condition,  and  tried  to  persuade  them  to 
march  southward,  season  by  season,  until  they  joined 

^  To  this  parting  address  they  listened  with  in- 
tense  interest,  and  in  their  turn  tried  to  persuade 
hun  to  come  back  some  day,  and  carry  a  boat-load 
of  them  to  the  stations;  and  a  happy  result  of  his 
stay  among  them  would  it  indeed  be  should  these 
poor  people  ever  follow  Dr.  Kane's  advice 

„nH  ^*  r*l?  'r^  *"•*  weary  journey  for  half-famished 
and  enfeebled  men-that  along  the  Greenland  coast. 
Plenty  of  birds  were  seen,  it  is  true,  flying  about  the 
rocks  along  the  shores ;  but  it  was  not  often  possible 
to  reach  them,  and  they  sufFered  much  for  want  of 
fresh  meat.  Once  they  were  all  nearly  lost  in  a 
sudden  break  up  of  the  ice,  when  they  were  out 
searching  for  game :  so  nearly,  indeed,  that  it  seemed 
a  miracle  that  any  escaped. 


mm 


''^WfflBSflg^^^gggj^BTj.;- 


THE  RETUllN  HOME. 


stt 


well,  that,  as  he 
trd8  them. 

which  hftd  hap- 
1  scattered  over 
iscussed  and  re- 
ra  every  other  in 
5med  a  stranger 
oor  people  took 
wliich  would  be 
on  the  18th  of 
,  however,  until 

knew  of  their 
il  and  their  far 
rsuade  them  to 
mtil  they  joined 

itened  with  in- 
ied  to  persuade 
*iry  a  boat-load 
py  result  of  his 
)e  should  these 
advice. 

•r  half-famished 
Greenland  coast, 
lying  about  the 
t  often  possible 
ch  for  want  of 
iarly  lost  in  a 
they  were  out 
.  that  it  seemed 


At  length  Cape  Dudley  Digges  came  in  Might; 
and,  utterly  worn  out,  they  put  in  for  a  few  days' 
holiday  in  a  lovely  spot,  abounding  in  animal  and 
vegetable  life,  which  they  called  Weary-man's  Rest. 
Here,  surrounded  by  all  kinds  of  natural  remedies 
for  the  scurvy,  they  gave  themselves  up  to  enjoy- 
ment ;  and  when  they  put  to  sea  again  it  was  in 
much  recruited  health  and  strength.  But  their 
troubles  soon  returned,  and  want  of  food  brought  on 
a  kind  of  low  fever,  accompanied  with  swollen  feet, 
which  made  the  labour  of  towing  almost  ititolerable 
to  them. 

The  large,  open,  and  dangerous  Bay  of  Mel- 
ville had  yiet  to  be  crossed,  and  .in  boats  so  leaky 
that  they  required  constant  baling  to  keep  them 
afloa,t.  And  though  worn  out  by  day,  yet  the  men 
could  not  sleep  when  their  turns  came  to  take  rest. 
This  was  the  worst  symptom  of  all ;  and  their  com- 
mander's hopes  of  escape  consequently  grew  very  faint. 

Just,  however,  when  things  looked  black  indeed, 
Botne  large  animal  was  seen  floating,  apparently  asleep, 
on  a  small  patch  of  ice.  It  was  taken  at  first  for  a 
walnis,  but  proved  to  be  a  seal.  Nothing  of  the 
kind  had  been  seen  for  some  time,  and  the  sight 
inspired  something  like  hope.  Drawing  stockings 
over  the  oars  to  act  as  mufflers,  both  the  boats' 
crews  neared  the  animal  in  perfect  silence,  and  in 
such  an  intense  state  of  excitement  that  they  could 
scarcely  move  their  oars.  Their  lives  depended  on 
the  capture  of  this  creature;  and  when  they  saw  him 
rear   his    head,  despair   was  ready   to   seize   them. 


i 


330 


DR.  KANE. 


Hut   ti.ey   wore  ulreudy    within    rifle-Hhot,  Hn.l    th.' 
captain  gave  the  signal  to  fire.     Petersen,  in   his 
anxiety,  could  with  difficulty  Hteadv  liis  g„n  •    and 
the  inHtanfc  the  nhot  was  fired  the  Ireature  made  a 
movement,  as  if  about  to  plunge.      But  hi«  head 
tell  holplesHly  on  one  Hide;  au<i,  with  a  frantic  yell 
of  delight,  the  men  urged  the  boats  upon  the  floes 
and  rushed  forward  to  carry  tlie  seal  to  a  safer  spot! 
lo  use  Dr.  Kane's  words,  '  they  raiv  over  the  floe 
crying,  and  laughing,  and  brandishing  their  knives' 
It  was  not  five  minutes  before  every  man  was  sucking 

blubbeT^^  ^"^'""'  '"'  '"''""''"^  ^""«  «^"P«  »^'  raw 
That  night  a  fire  was  made  of  two  planks  taken 
from  c  le  of  the  boats,  and  they  had  a  grand  feast 
not  an  ounce  of  the  creature  being  lost.  This  sunplv 
saved  them;  and  it  saved  their  poor  dogs,  too :  fbr 
the  two  remaining  ones  had  been  brought  with  then- 
m  case  of  extremity,  though  not  a  man  liked  to  think 
of  killing  theui. 

fK  ff  ^i^r}^'^  "f  ^"^"'*  "^^y  ^^'•^  approaching 
the  Devils  Thumb,  in  the  ordinary  whaling-ground 
on  the  southern  side  of  the  bay.  They  then  passed 
the  Duck  Islands;  and,  coming  close  to  Uperaavik. 
prepared  once  more  to  land  on  the  firm  earth 

Petersen  soon  recognised  a  native  whom  he  knew 
It  was  Carhe  Mossyn,  who  had  come  up  in  the 
Jraulein  Flaischer  to  get  the  year's  s.pply  of 
blubber  from  Kmgatok;  and  of  course  he  was  full 
of  nows-such  news  as  he  got  from  the  whalers,  and 
relating  chiefly  to  the  Crimean  War. 


•ifle-Hhot,  un.l  the 
Petersen,  in  Im 
i<ly  lu8  gun  ;  m„| 
3  creature  made  a 
'•  But  his  head 
nth  a  frantic  yell 
ts  upon  the  floew, 
al  to  a  safer  spot, 
raiv  over  the  floe, 
hing  their  knives, 
man  was  sucking 
>Dg  strips  of  raw 

two  planka  taken 
id  a  grand  feast, 
lost.  This  H»[)ply 
or  dogs,  too  :  for 
'•ought  with  their 
mn  liked  to  think 

ere  approaching 
'  whaling-ground 
riiey  then  passed 
se  to  Upernavik, 
3  firm  earth, 
e  whom  he  knew, 
ome  up  in  the 
ear's  s'lpply  of 
irse  he  was  full 
the  whalers,  and 
iir. 


AlUtlVAL  At  WI'KUNAVIK. 


881 


Of  America  he  knew  little,  lie  said,  as  Ameri- 
cans have  no  whalers  on  that  coast.  He  only  knew 
tl.at,  iiliout  a  fortnight  before,  two  vessels  had  gone 
up  into  the  ice  to  seek  Dr.  Kane's  party.  He  could 
tell  them,  however,  what  interested  them  as  mucii 
as  anything,  nauiely,  tiiat  Dr.  Rae  had  found  traces 
of  Sir  John  Franklin's  expedition  nearly  a  thousand 
miles  to  the  south  of  where  they  had  been  seeking 
him.  This  he  knew,  because  his  pastor  had  read  it 
in  a  German  paper.  So,  after  being  eighty-four 
days  in  the  open  air.  Dr.  Kane  and  his  companions 
landed,  and  that  night  '  drunk  coffee  before  many  a 
hospitable  dwelling;'  for  they  could  not  remain 
long  within  the  four  walls  of  a  house  without  a  dis- 
tressing sense  of  suffocation. 


■• ; 


MaWMCMWiK!'- 


I|l£/i|l 


332 


=  ^ 


CHAPTKR  XVr. 


B.K  LEOPOLD  M'CLINTOC'K'S  VOYAGE,  AND  DiSCOVKHV 
OF  THK  RKLICS  OK  THK  FRANKLIN  EXPEDITION. 

The  discovery  Of  the  three  {graves  at  Beoehey  Island 
by  CaptamH  Penny  and    Oiamanney  in    1850,  and 
the   report   sent   home   l.y  Dr.  Rae  in   1854,  were, 
"P  to  that   diite.   the   onl^    clues   which   had   been 
obtained  of  the  cour«-  of  the  lost  expedition.      On 
lie    receipt   of  the    first    intelligence   the   English 
Ooverrment   had   redoubled    its    efforts,    t,nd   con- 
tinueo  to  send  oit  more  and  more  ships.      But  Dr 
Rae's   information   had   the  contrary   effect,   as   it 
8eem.3dto  destroy  all  hopes  of  saving  life;  und  when 
l.ady    Franklin    earnestly    intreated   that  this  new 
track  might  be  followed  up,  the  reply  was,  on  this 
ground,  .1  negative  one.     The  British   Government 
did  not  consider  it  right  to  risk  more  lives,  or  to  spend 
more  treasure,  in  this  perilous  enterprise;  and  her 
petition  was  consequently  rejected. 

She,  however,  viewed  the  matter  in  h  different 
light,  and  considered  it  as  a  sacred  duty  to  rescue 
If  not  the  lives  of  her  husband  and  his  companions,' 
yet  at  least  their  reputation  from  oblivion. 


Wlll-UJll,,,  iini/.tfi 


ADY  FRANKMN'h  RF>»OLlTTION. 


333 


,  AND  DlHfOVEHy 
«f  KXPKDITION. 

it  Reochey  iHland 
ey  in    1850,  and 
e  in   1854,  were, 
which  liad   been 
expedition.      On 
nee   the   English 
fforts,   i,nd   con- 
ships.      But  Dr. 
try   effect,   as   it 
[f  life ;  and  when 
1   that  this  new 
iply  was,  on  this 
ish  Government 
lives,  or  to  spend 
erprise;  and  her 

er  in  a  different 
I  duty  to  rescue, 
his  companions, 
:>blivion. 


She  had  already  greatly  inipoverinhed  herself  l)y 
the  large  expenses  which  she  had  incurred  in  this 
cause;  yet  she  hesitated  not  on  receiving  this  an- 
swer, hut  at  once  determined  to  take  the  matter 
into  her  own  hands. 

The  '  Fox,'  a  screw-yacht,  'as  purchased  hy  her, 
and  placed  under  the  command  of  Captain  M'Clin- 
took,  who  had  already  so  greatly  distinguished  him- 
self in  the  voyages  of  Sir  James  Ross  and  Captain 
Austen ;  and  whose  heart,  as  he  himself  tells  us,  wiu* 
moHt  thoroughly  in  the  work. 

Lady  Franklin  was  not,  however,  left  to  bear 
the  pecuniary  burden  alone ;  for  many  eminent  and 
Bcientifio  men  shared  in  her  enthusiasm,  "i-nH  ;  mongst 
them  was  Sir  Koderick  Murchison, 

A  large  sum  was  conse«iuently  soon  raised  ;  and, 
by  the  Ist  of  July,  1857,  the  '  Fox'  was  getting  to 
sea,  having  previously  undergone  a  thorough  refitting 
and  preparation  for  the  voyage. 

Volunteers  had  been  so  numerous,  that  it  was 
only  difficult  to  make  a  selection ;  an<l  the  crew  of 
nien  and  officers  was  really  a  picked  one,  altliough 
but  twenty-five  in  ntmiber.  Lieutenant  Hobson, 
already  a  tried  man  in  Arctic  work,  was  the  second 
officer ;  and  Captain  Allan  Young  went  as  sailing- 
master,  and  contributed  also  largely  to  the  expense. 
He  had  but  just  returned  in  ill-health  from  the 
Crimea,  yet  he  went  solely  as  a  volunteer.  Dr. 
Walker  went  as  surgeon,  naturalist,  and  photo- 
grapher ;  while  Carl  Petersen,  who  had  only  a  few 
days  before  returned  to  his  own  country  from  Dr. 


■ffi 


I' 


It' 


.'i.'M 


SIH  l,K()POf,fi  M'n.lNTdl'K. 


Ka.H'H   ..xp.,lifion,    in    wJ,i,.|.    |,e    |.a,|    ...rt-.r.,!    .. 
-K/-";- to   oi„  tlu«  one  «t  the  invihaion  o   M^ 

The  Hhip  W.W,  likewise,  well   m.d  wMv  ntocke.! 
w.t  .    pn.v.MonH.    i„eh.,linK    pl.nty    of    vL      ,t^' 

""•■•"lly  coutr.hufe.|  towunlH  tl.CHo  HupnlieH    Cl 
K.v.nK  anuH,  anun.n.iti,..,  h«.I  varioun  Ar  S  : 
•"H.  H,  when  once  the  thin^  w«h  Htart«d. 

Lady  Franklin  hem-If,  ao.on.panie.1  by  he-    ioce 

they  j,H  «„a  ^,:r  LX^"2r;: 

rox   waH.,trthe  southern  toast  ofGreenhmd-  ami 
Lore  contrary  t<.  their  intention,  they  weHiiZ 
0  put  .nto  the  harbour  of  Frederickahaab.  in  S 
to  Hen.1  home  by  a  Danish   v«»el,  soon  leav  nV  hi 

o7Lr;;:r\ttr?f^"^""''«^"'^' 
;-anopporS-.f^;;-:,^Xi::^"S 

to   aboutlSl^'^'t'""'  '"*^"''"'''  '''"-"nt-nly 

The!    la  tterTn  T".'   "'  "'""    '^  "^    ^-«« 
i  neHe  latter,  ,n  fact,  poHsess  all  the  habitable  Dart* 

of  the   country,  although  without  di«poH^lr^ 

or^jinal  inhabitants.     The  latter  still  maLt  n  fh 

In  tri^^rv^he  D^'  ^^^^'  "*  "-^  -^^^--d 

attached       L         P*'''''  *"  "''^"'"  ""^^  '^'^  '"^^'r 
attached.      At   each    station   th  -re   is   a    J^utheran 

P-tor,  doctor,  and  achoohna.ter.  of  wLse  S^ 


-sosmm 


Iiu<l    HuttVri'd    HI) 
»  inviffttion  „fsir 

md  wimAy  stotked 

'■y    of    v«g<,tal»|..H, 

and  GovHrnuK'nt 

'    HUppIieH,   JH-Hid«'« 

ouH  Artitic  inHtni- 
krte<l. 

miwihy  luT    icce, 
ird  «h(»rtly  iitforc 
iwftrty   cheurM  on 
'  «  fortnight  the 
■  Oreenhind ;  and 
Jiey  were  oltligetl 
'ksimab,  in  order 
oon  leaving  that 
in  to  Hhow  Bignti 
tain  M'Clintock 
acquainted  with 
Its,  both  Danish 

8,  amounts  only 
^W  are  Danes, 
habitable  parts 
iispoBseBsing  its 
I  maintain  their 
■e  cared  for  and 
they  are  really 
'8  a  Lutheran 
f  whose  advice 


•(JOlXd  TO  HKI».' 


SM 


and  InHtnii-tiuiiH  thene  pour  people  liaxr  the  Ix'tietif, 
without  uiiy  payinent  wliutevt  r  Ix-itig  r<'(|iiir)(i.  In 
tinu'H  of  fiitiiine,  alMo,  they  are  Niip|diiil  with  pru- 
viHioHK;  but  npiritH  are   HtrlHly  I'orliiddtii. 

Im  Hot  tliiw  the  right  wiiy  of  occupying  ii  licjitlicu 
country:  and  a  way  whieh,  an  f.-iptuin  M'Clintock 
renuirkn,  we  KngliHh  should  do  well  to  imitate? 
Vet  the  Kstpiiinaux  of  Labrador,  and  all  the  MudsoirH 
May  territory,  would  hardiv  bear  witneMM  to  the  Hame 
kind  of  treatment. 

The  '  Fox'  Boon  prcK-eeded  on  its  northern  voy- 
age, and  reached  the  Moravian  Nettleinent  of  Lich- 
tonfels,  and  the  sunny  little  cove  of  FiHhernaes, 
to  both  of  which  Dr.  Kane  had  so  lately  paid  a  visit. 
At  the  latter  place  boyn  broiight  handfulH  of  large 
rough  garnets,  which  they  gladly  exchanged  fur  biw- 
cuits.  Here,  too,  Captain  M'Clintock  was  conducted 
by  Petersen  to  Hce  the  entrance  of  an  EMquiinaux  hut, 
all  the  inmates  of  which  were,  as  they  would  have 
said,  in  bed*,  but,  as  the  captain  reniarkH,  'doing 
to  l)ed  here  only  means  lying  down  with  yciir  clothes 
on,  upon  a  rein-deerskin,  wherever  you  can  find  room, 
and  pulling  another  fur  robe  over  you.' 

(Kidhaab,  or  New  Hemhutt,  still  the  seat  of  a 
Moravian  mission,  also  rcveived  a  visit ;  and  four 
missionaries,  unpaid  by  Government,  were  found  to 
be  labouring  there. 

The  Danish  home-bound  vessel  liaving  been  met 
here,  the  invalid,  the  letters,  and  the  pilot,  who  was 
Hans  Christian's  brother,  were  soon  sent  on  board 
of  her;  and  the  '  F'ox'  again  weighed  anchor.      Pro- 


336 


SIR  LEOPOLD  M'CLINTOCK. 


ceeding  up  Disco  Fiord,  li  "y  found  it  in  all  the 
beauty  of  its  summer  dress, — the  blue  campanulas 
and  other  wild-flowers  spread  profusely  over  the 
rocky  slopes,  and  game  of  many  sorts  abounding 
in  the  neighbourhood.  This  place  is  famous  for 
its  salmon-trout  fisheries,  of  which  Heh  a  large 
supply  was  brought  off  to  the  ship  in  kajaks.    A 


Bafflu's  Bay  by  Moonlight. 

young  Esquimaux  dog-driver,  n'>.med  Christian,  also 
volunteered,  and  was  accepted  in  that  capacity. 
He  was  soon  in  the  hands  of  the  crew,  undergoing  a 
thorough  scrubbing  and  cropping,  and  when  dressed 
in  his  new  sailor's  clothes,  he  looked  very  well  con- 
tented with  himself. 

A  fresh  supply  of  coal  '  as  taken  on  board  in 
Waygatt  Strait,   which  our  readers   will  remember 


^.-^^^If^ygifntHiliimii  WWWIIWMlWWM'WMMppaifyyjWfBgfwfw 


M'CLINTOCK, 

il  ry  found  it  in  all  the 
SB, — the  blue  campanulas 
aread  profusely  over  the 
of  many  sorts  abounding 
rhis  place  is  famous  for 
of  which  fiah  a  large 
3  the  ship  in  kajaks.    A 


*oonlight. 

r,  n^'med  Christian,  also 
Jted  in  that  capacity, 
the  crew,  undergoing  a 
ping,  and  when  dressed 
!  looked  very  well  con- 
as  taken  on  board  in 
readers   will  remember 


BESET  IN  THE  PACK. 

separates  the  isle  of  Disco  from  the  maili  land. 
Here  the  scenery  is  described  as  very  grand.  They 
had  still  to  complete  their  number  of  dogs,  and 
stood  in  need  of  some  other  things;  so  Petersen's 
knowledge  of  the  resources  of  the  country,  in  which 
he  had  lived  for  twelve  years,  was  found  very  ser- 
viceable. At  Upernavik  he  was  welcomed  as  an 
old  friend  ;  and  the  visit  of  a  friend,  whether  old  or 
new,  is  always  a  pleasant  event  in  those  lonely  parts. 

The  last  traces  of  civilization  were  seen  here ; 
and  now  they  had  to  choose  between  the  diiferent 
routes  across  Baffin's  Bay. 

A  pack  of  ice,  caused  by  the  breaking  up  of  the 
main  body  in  spring,  always  obstructs  the  passage 
from  east  to  west,  even  in  summer.  This  must  be 
sailed  round  either  on  the  north  or  south,  or  a 
vessel  must  push  through  the  middle  of  it ;  and  now, 
failing  in  the  southern  and  middle  courses,  Captain 
M'Clintock  steered  northwards. 

They  were  in  Melville  Bay,  which  Dr.  Kane  had 
so  recently  crossed;  and  one  vast  glacier  extended 
along  the  coast  for  40  or  50  miles,  while  innumerable 
icebergs  were  glittering  in  the  sunlight  and  ren- 
dering the  navigation  almost  impossible.  It  was 
late  in  the  season,  too,  and  soon  the  yacht  was  com- 
pletely beset  in  the  pack  ;  and  to  the  captain's  great 
mortification,  there  was  every  appearance  of  her 
being  forced  to  winter  there.  They  were  in  a 
dangerous  part,  too,  ..ad  exposed  to  many  storms; 
and  when  he  thought  of  Lady  P'ranklin's  disap- 
pointed hopes,  the  delay  seemed  almost  unbearable. 

z 


ss^s-- 


■»*ii!  -^4  "In  jfti'  f~Jn.'':- 


— 4ki 


338 


SIR  LEOPOLD  M'CLINTOCK. 


.  In  these  feelings  of  their  captain,  the  men,  for- 
tunately, did  not  participate.  They  had  all  that 
they  wanted,  and,  with  the  usual  thoughtlessness  of 
sailors,  made  themselves  quite  happy  with  the 
various  diversions  within   their  reach. 

Bear-hunts  and  seal-hunts  formed  part  of  these; 
and  Petersen  and  Christian  diligently  practised  the 
Esquimaux  method  of  attracting  the  latter,— scraping 
the  ice  so  as  to  make  a  noise  like  that  produced 
by  a  seal  with  its  flipper  ;  then  putting  one  end 
of  a  pole  into  the  water,  they  made  all  kinds  of 
grunting  noises,  like  those  which  the  seal  itself  makes. 
Like  other  Esquimaux,  Christian  would  carry 
his  kajak  on  his  head,  and  drag  a  seal  after  him 
when  he  came  back  from  hunting. 

They  Lad  also  a  barrel-organ  on  board,  which  had 

been  presented  by  the  Prince  Consort  to  the  vessel 

which  bore  his  name,  and  which  Lady  Franklin  had 

sent  out  in  1851.   This  was  its  third  winter  in  the  ice ; 

and  it  served  greatly  to  amuse  the  men,  especially 

Christian,  who  had  never  seen  such  a  thing  before. 

So  September  passed  away;  but  no  change  in 

the  ice  came  sufficient  to  allow  of  the  ship's  passage 

through  it,  and  the  preparations  for  winter  went  on 

the  more  rapidly  as  the  dismal  prospect  became  a 

certainty. 

On  the  Ist  of  November  the  sun  paid  them  its 
last  visit ;  and  on  the  5th,  in  order  to  vary  the 
monotony,  the  crew  kept  Guy  Fawkes'  day  on  the 
ice  in  great  style. 

In  the  beginning  of  the  next  month,  however,  the 


■--0^j'?^msmmfmmmmmm'>»i«fmmm 


WMmm3.'fmm'M&^^i 


■5*""»i 


OCK. 

ain,  the  men,  for- 
'hey  had  all  that 
thoughtlessness  of 

happy    with    the 

each, 

led  part  of  these ; 

itly  practised  the 

latter, — sorj^ing 
ce  that  produced 
putting  one  end 
ade  all  kinds  of 

seal  itself  makes, 
ian  would  carry 
i  seal  after  him 

board,  which  had 
)rt  to  the  vessel 
dy  Franklin  had 
vinter  in  the  ice ; 
men,  especially 
a  thing  before, 
t  no  change  in 
e  ship's  passage 
'  winter  went  on 
>spect  became  a 

I  paid  them  its 
ar  to  vary  the 
kes'  day  on  the 

bh,  however,  the 


•y  y.*!''  '«»*».  j»'-.si»- 


FUNKUAL  ON  THK  UK. 


Ml 


daily  routine  of  ship  life  wus  broken  in  a  Hiulder  way, 
for  a  (leatli  occurred  among  the  crew,  not  by  illnefis, 
but  as  the  residt  of  an  accident.  Scott,  the  engine- 
driver  (for  the  'Fox'  waH  provided  with  a  f.eani- 
engine  in  case  of  need),  fell  down  u  liatchway,  and 
received  such  injuries  from  the  fall  that  his  death 
occurred  two  days  after.  Captain  Al'Clintock  de- 
scribes the  scene  at  this  funeral,  at  which  he  had  to 
officiate,  as  one  which  could  never  be  forgotten  by 
those  who  witnessed  it. 

The  moon  was  shining  at  the  time,  and  appa- 
rently not  alone.  A  halo  encircled  it,  through  which 
passed  a  broad  streak  of  light,  which  stretched 
along  the  horizon,  and  above  the  first  halo  appeared 
parts  of  two  others.  Six  paraselenae,  or  mock 
moons,  appeared  in  the  heavens  at  the  same  time. 
Yet  the  sky  was  dark  and  murky,  and  the  cold 
intense,  when  the  little  procession  descended  from 
the  deck,  where  most  of  the  service  had  been  read, 
and  while  the  ship's  colours  were  set  half-mast  high, 
and  her  bell  tolled  mournfully,  proceeded  by  the  light 
of  torches  to  the  spot  where  a  hole  was  cut  in  the  ice. 
Thus  V         f  '  ody  committed  to  the  deep. 

Pev  i.sft'.  ■  •.  'ed  himself  a  very  interesting  com- 
panion du.  weary  winter ;  having,  of  course, 
endless  stores  nformation  about  the  country,  the 
Esquimaux,  an  e  animals  of  the  region :  but  he  was 
not  called  upon  to  exercise  his  office  of  interpreter, 
as  no  natives  came  near  the  ship. 

In  March  the  strong  gales  caused  movements  to 
take  place  in  the  ice,  in  which  the  '  Fox'  got  nipped, 


Hi  I  i«i|iiiiiHiiiiimMwi  wnimni  Hill 


342 


SFR  LEOPOLD  M'^'UNTiXk. 


and  was  often  in  iinminpnt  danger.  Tlien  the  pack 
began  to  drift,  and  she  with  it,  until,  by  the  26(1^  of 
April,  she  had  actually  repassed  Davis's  Straits,  and 
waa  once  more  opposite  to  Fishernaes,  but  some  way 
out  at  sea  I  It  is,  -perhaps,  one  of  the  most  remark- 
able drifts  ever  known ;  and  though  eight  months  had 
thus  passed  uselessly,  yet  it  was  with  great  thank- 
fulness that  her  captain  found  his  vessel  wifely  free 
from  the  '  villainous  pack,'  and  his  crew  safe  after  all 
the  terrific  perils  of  that  long  run. 

They  then  steered  for  Holsteinborg,  one  of  the 
best  places  for  obtaining  rein-deer,  in  order  to  refit 
and  refresh  the  crew.     We  must  pass  over  the  time 
of  that  delightful  though  short  summer  holiday  in 
Greenland.     Soon  they  were  again  steaming  north- 
ward, and  after  narrowly  escaping   shipwreck,  and 
then  being  again   caught   in  the   pack,  tliey  suc- 
ceeded by  the  middle  of  July  in  reaching  the  en- 
trance of  Lancaster  Sound.     They  had  on  their  way 
while  opposite  to  the  crimson  cliflfs  and  Arctic  high- 
lands, received  a  visit  from  some  of  these  poor  high- 
anders,  who  instantly  recognized  Petersen,  having 
hved  at  Etah,  and  seen  him  there  with  Dr.  Kane 
They  told  them  that  Hans  was  married,  and  living 
at  Whale  Sound,  but  would  gladly  go  southward  if 
he  had  a  kajak  or  dogs,  as  he  suffered  much  from 
want  where  he  was. 

It  was  probably  in  consequence  of  a  letter  of  Dr 
Kane's  that  the  Danish  Greenland  Company,  pitying 
the  condition  of  these  poor  people,  now  requested 
Captain  M'Clintock  to  bring  them   all,  that  is   a 


i. 


"^t-^ 


LX'K. 

'.  Tlien  the  pack 
til,  by  the  2bih  of 
avis's  Straits,  and 
les,  but  some  way 
the  most  remark- 
eight  months  liad 
'ith  great  thank- 
vessel  wifely  free 
5rew  safe  after  all 

borg,  one  of  the 
in  order  to  refit 
ua  over  tlie  time 
tnmer  holiday  in 
steaming  north- 
ehipwreck,  and 
pack,  they  suc- 
eaching  the  en- 
ad  on  their  way, 
md  Arctic  higb- 
these  poor  high- 
•etersen,  having 
with  Dr.  Kane, 
ried,  and  living 
fo  southward  if 
red  much  from 

f  a  letter  of  Dr. 

mpany,  pitying 
now  requested 
all,  that  is,  a 


THK  OLD  WOMAN  S  RECOLLECTIONS. 


343 


hundred  and  twenty  people,  down  to  the  southern 
settlements :  a  thing  which,  he  says,  he  would  gladly 
:  have  done,  had  not  duty  called  him  elsewhere. 

As  a  pack  of  ice  lay  across  the  entrance  to  the 
Sound,  lie  steered  now  for  Pond's  Bay,  to  the  south- 
east of  it,  and  there  had  anotlier  opportunity  of 
sending  home  letters  by  the  '  Diana '  whaling-vessel. 

Here  they  met  an  old  native  woman  and  a  boy, 
who  were  subjected  to  a  close  cross-examination  as  to 
wrecks,  shipr ,  and  white  people ;  but  they  declared 
tb^t  they  knew  of  none  ever  having  come  there  :  and 
yet  they  knew  well  enough  5>,bout  the  depot  of  provi- 
sions at  Navy  Board  Inlet,  which  is  the  next  on  the 
north  of  this  coast,  and  which  some  of  their  tribe 
seem  to  have  robbed.  The  old  woman  traced  for 
them  a  chart  of  the  coast  line,  and  the  next  day, 
being  less  excited,  she  remembered  a  wreck  on  the 
coast  when  she  was  a  girl,  about  forty-five  miles 
to  the  northward  —  a  piece  of  which  wreck  was 
afterwards  brought  on  board  and  found  to  be 
English  oak. 

As  no  further  information  could  be  obtained 
from  her,  they  determined  on  going  on  to  visit  her 
tribe,  taking  her  and  her  boy  with  them  as  pilots ; 
and  while  on  board  she  drew  for  them  another  chart, 
which  fully  displayed  her  geographical  powers.  She 
told  them  that  she  was  a  widow,  and  that  her 
daughter  was  married  and  living  at  Igloolik,  which 
turned  out  to  be  the  same  that  Parry  had  visited ; 
for  she  spoke  of  a  ship  which  had  wintered  there, 
and  of  one  of  the  crew's  dying,  whose  name  was 


344 


Sin  LEOPOLD  M'CLINTOCK, 


Allul.,  or  Kllul.,-  Parry'H  ice-master,  Mr.  Elder,  no 
ck>ul,t,  who  died  and  was  buri,,,!  at  I-loolik.  81,.- 
Hpoko,  too  of  another  wreck,  which  happened  before 
her  first  child  wjis  born. 


1  di 


No  informatiov  oouh 
any  of  her  tribe  i. 
nor  of  any  wrecks  v 
were  questioned  both 
name  of  their  village  is  iuiparHi 
of  land  surrounded   by  glaciers 


'wevor,  be  gained  from 

liose  whom  they  sought, 

■'<ough  all  these  people 

and  together.      The 

'ik,  a  mere  strip 

x'hey  were  very 


^    o -■"•      ^"^y    were   very 

poorly  off,  as  there  is  little  game  in  this  locality, 
and  less  wood;  and  they  constantly  repeated 'pi 
fPiay—Uive  me,'  in  a  whining  tone.    On  the  return 
of  the  captain  to  tlie  ship,  which  had  been  nearly 
crushed  during  the  absence  of  the  party,  some  of 
the.e  people  came  in  their  kajaks,  with  wlmlebone 
and  ..arwhals  horns  to  barter.     They  remained  on 
board  some  time,  drew  more  charts,  and  spoke  of 
two  0  her  wrecks  a  day's  journey  southward,  which 
they  had   visited  five   winters  ago:   but  they  all 
agreed  that  it  was  a  long  time  since  they  took  place  • 
and  It  was  considered  likely  that  these  were  the  wrecks 
of  two  whalers  mentioned  in  Parry's  narrative. 

This  tribe  had  yearly  communication  with  ano- 
ther  probably  the  Akkolee  people,  from  whom  they 
had  heard  of  some  white  people  who  came  in  two 
boat«,  and  spent  a  winter  in  snow-huts  :  hut  none  of 
these  died;  therefore  these  were,  most  likely,  Dr. 
Kae  and  his  party. 

They  now  steamed  on  through  Lancaster  Sound 
to  Beechey  Island  depot;  and  here  a  marble  tablet 


.  ■^'^^»«i«?t^«3S3|M 


-^  w    ./  **.-w«!T»fffef-«ifr,»-a^ 


»('K. 

er,  iAIr.  Elder,  uo 
It  I^loolik.  8he 
liappened  before 

,  be  gained  from 
lom  tliey  sought, 
all  these  people 
to-rether.      The 
'ik,  a  mere  strip 
I'hey  were  very 
in  this  locality, 
^  repeated  '  Pil- 
.    On  the  return 
md  been  nearly 
party.  Home  of 
with  whalebone 
ey  remained  on 
s,  and  spoke  of 
•uthward,  which 
:    but  they   all 
hey  took  place ; 
were  the  wrecks 
narrative, 
iition  with  ano- 
rom  whom  they 
0  came  in  two 
;8  :  but  none  of 
lost  likely,  Dr. 

ancaster  Sound 
.  marble  tablet 


THK  MARHI.K  TA'.ll.Ki. 


M^i 


Bent  out  l>y  liJidy  Kranklin  wan  iTfclcd,  tlnsi'  to  one 
rcc()nlin>^  tiic  dcatliH  of  those  who  died  in  Sir  Kdward 
Kelcher's  expedition,  and  also  to  another  to  the  me- 
mory of  the  young  Frenchman,  Lieutenant  Hellot. 
Lady  Franklin's  ran  m  follows:  — 

Co  i\)t  ^tmox\t  of 
FRANKLIN, 
CROZ[KI{,  FITZ.IAMKS, 

AND  AM,  THKrn 

OAI.I.ANT  OFFICKnS  AND  FAITHFUI,  COMTASIDSH 

WHO  HAVE  SUFFF.HKD  AND  I'EIIIHHKD 

IN  THF.  C'AUSF,  OF  8CIENCK  AND 
THK    HEKVUF,    OF    THKIU    COUNTKV, 

Ci)i(l  Cnblrt 

IH  KilKOTED  NEAIl  THE  SPOT   WHEHE  THEV    PASSED 

THEIU   FIUST  ARCTIC  WINTER,  AND  WHENCE 

THEY  ISSUED  FORTH  TO  CONtJUEIl 

DIFFICULTIES  OR   TO  DIE. 

IT    COMMEMORATES    t/IE    OUIEF    OF    THEIR    ADMIRING 

COUNTRYMEN  AND  FRIENDS,  AND  THE  AN(JIIISH, 

SUBDUED   BY  FAITH,  OF  HER  WHO  HAM 

LOST,  IN  THE  HEROIC  LEADER  OF 

THE  EXPEDITION,  THE  MOST 

DEVOTED  AND  AFFECTIONATE  OF 

H'TMBANDS. 


'  AND  SO  HE  IIRINQETH  THEM  UNTO  THE  HAVEN  WHERE 
TIIKV  WOULD  HE.' 

i8,);p. 

Twelve  days  later  than  this,  in  1850,  Captain 
M'Clintock  had  been  on  board  the  '  A-ssistance'  when 
Captain  Ommanney  landed,  because  a  cairn  had  at- 


e»**^ii^ilt*^- : 


yiMsmut^awwww 


34« 


8IU  LKOI'OLI)  M'CMNTOCK. 


tm<-t<>(l  liJH  n„Uco,  and  tliiw  dwcovered   tlu.  flin'.« 
graveH. 

On  flu.  18th  of  AtiKUHt  ti.e  'Fox'  ran  euHily 
(lown  Peel  Hound,  between  North  HomerHet  and 
Prince  of  Wales'  lahind,  and  attempted  to  .,«««  I)y 
the  pn8«age  of  BeUot  Strait  into  the  Gulf  of  Boothia  • 


Uollot  Btruil. 


'CMij*^*'. 


hut  the  ice  no<^  suffering  the  ship  to  proceed,  they 
turned  out  again  and  made  for  Port  Leopold. 

Passing  down  North  Somerset  on  the  east,  they 
once  more  tried  Bellot  Strait  from  that  side ;  a  bar- 
rier,  however,  still  stopped  them  in  the  middle  of  it 
nor  wa«  it  imtil  the  fifth  attempt  that  they  succeeded! 
On  a  pwnt  a  little  north  of  this  Captain  M'Cliutock 
had  stood,  just  nine  years  before,  with  Sir  James  Ross; 


-.!:,.,,-,,iv<j»«v«*«>,i*>sS3s,':^ 


X'K. 

Jvered   tlio  tliree 

'  Fox'  mn  eiiHily 
1  kSoinerwt  and 
ipti'd  to  pjiHH  by 
Gulfof  Hoothia; 


o  proceed,  they 
t  Leopold, 
the  east,  they 
at  side  ;  a  bar- 
10  middle  of  it, 
they  succeeded, 
iiin  M'Cliutock 
^ir  James  Hoss; 


DKATII  (tK  THK  KN»MNKKK. 


347 


and  ho  now  tliou^ht,  as  he  had  done  then,  that  a 
,  wide  channel  southward  ct-rtainly  existed,  that  is, 
-the  one  now  known  aa  Victoria  Strait.  All  this 
country  hiul  then  to  he  explored  ;  and  Captain  Voun^ 
started  in  a  sledj^o  to  seek  a  route  from  Hreiitford 
Hay  to  the  Western  Sea.  Hut  this  he  rep<»rted  im- 
practicable. Three  separate  sledge-routes  were  tiien 
planned,  which  were  to  be  led  by  the  Captain,  lieu- 
tenant Hobson,  and  Captain  Young. 

The  tirst  was  to  go  to  the  Great  Kish  River,  ex- 
amining the  shores  of  King  William's  Ijand;  the 
second,  the  western  side  of  Hoothia  to  the  Magnetic 
Pole;  and  the  third,  the  shores  of  Prince  of  WaU«' 
Land.  They  were  to  be  absent  from  sixty  to  seventy 
days,  and  to  start  in  March,  the  earliest  time  they 
thought  jx>ssible.  Meantime  the  ship  remained  in 
a  creek,  wliich  they  named  Port  Kennedy,  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  this  little  strait,  for  her  winter 
(|uarterB  ;  but  her  crew  were  not  to  be  long  inactive. 

Travelling  parties  in  all  directions  went  out  to 
examine  the  country,  and  to  endeavour  to  meet 
with  Esquimaux,  from  whom  the  desired  information 
might  possibly  be  extracted.  They  lost  their  en- 
gineer this  winter  by  a  fit  of  apoplexy ;  and  thus 
their  numbers  were  reduced  to  twenty-four,  and  they 
had  no  one  left  to  manage  the  engine. 

It  was  a  severe  season;  but  they  had  plenty  of 
occupation  in  preparing  for  their  journeys  after  the 
turn  of  the  year.  And,  profiting  by  experience,  all 
sorts  of  improvements  were  made  in  the  wearing 
apparel,  in  order  the  better  to  enable  travellers  to 


34.; 


NIK  l,Koh»|,|»  M*«I,INT(«K. 


Htai.d  i.x|>(.Hiir(.  to  wind  iukI  wmtl.ir.  Kurr-rnvcM 
and  li^hr  ..v.T-ull  drfMHCH,  cill.-d  Hi.ow-r..i...||,.n  w,.iv 
•ii.ul..  t<.  kc.p  off  th.-  diirtin^r  H.mw;  and  .'vory 
urtich>  wan  trird  and  U-MvA  \,y  pnparHN.ry  walki. 

Til.,  l.tfl..  Ii;,dil  mlio,  t.'nfH,  tu  hol.l  Hix  iH-rnnm, 
Hiid  wl.iHi  w..ijfh..d,  inrludinK  poh-H,  „nly   IHA  Ihn 
wen.  ultt-ml  and  HfivuKtlionod :  mul  warn.  Hl.Mu.ini/- 
l»aKH  ftnd  tcnt-rchns  w.-n.  tnadc.      Tlu-  cookinj^  ntt^n- 
hiIh,  those  for  carrying'  food,  and  oti.or  urticl,,s,  woi.. 
HlHo  thoroUKldy  testod  and  n,painHi ;  and,  in  hI.oH 
evorytluriK  wuh  done  to  enable  tlietn  to  begin  tlieir  ex-' 
c.irHi..n»  with  or  Hoon  after  ti.e  reappearano..  of  tin.  hiui. 
and  to  |)Mr.sn..  ti.ein  in  a  t.m.peratnre  which  would,  in' 
th|>  courHo  of  fo„r  or  five  niontliH,  vary  fr.nn  fifty  de- 
KHH-H  below  zero  to  about  the  wmie  number  abovo  it. 
They  got  away  earlier  than  any  {.reviouH  tra- 
vellern;  but  Captain  M^CIintock'n  party  ^ero  some- 
what  retarded  in  their  progroHH,  by  the  dogn' suffer- 
ingH  fron,  eold.     They  becan.e  lunie.  and  Hou.etin.eH 
tcai  down  in  fitH;  ho  that  he  was  unwillingly  obliged 
to  lighten  the  loa.ls  n.<,re  than  once.    Tl.oy  travelltnl 
till  dusk,  and  then  built  themselveN  a  snow-hut  in 
wh.ch  they  paHHed  the  night.      It  took  two  ho.irH  to 
erect  these  Htructures;  and  even  then  the  tent  was 
put  over  them  to  roof  them  in,  as  they  could  not 
spare  tune  for  the  arched  dome. 

On  the  iHtofMa.ch  theyarrive<l  at  the  Magnetic 
Fole;  and  there,  to  the  captain's  great  joy,  he  saw 
four  natives  approaching.  None  had  pieviously  been 
seen,  which  had  caused  him  to  fear  that  the  journey 
would  be  fruitless. 


'OCK. 


I>H.  UAKK  HTATKMKN'I>*  (ONKlllMKI*. 


.')4!i 


liir.      FHci'-rnvoM 
n»w-rcj)c||«-n..  wiTf 
Hiiow  ;    mill  ««vi'ry 
•  piimhiry  walkn. 
»  liiild  H\\  |»»'rHoiif«i, 
l»H,  only   1H(J  lliH., 
Ill  warm  HN'upinjr- 
riic  fodkinjjf  iitt'ii- 
Ihm-  urticl<'H,  wt*i« 
<i;  iitid,  in  Hliurt, 
to  hfgiii  tlioir  vx- 
'arauocoftlu!  Him, 
V  wlwcli  w(»ul(l,  ill 
ury  from  fifty  dt!- 
number  uhovo  if. 
*ny  previouH  tra- 
mrty  Arons  hoiiu-.. 

tluj    (logH'HIlffur- 

e,  and  sometinit'H 
willingly  obliged 
.  Tlioy  truvelltHl 
i»  a  snow-but,  in 
5ok  two  boura  to 
len  tbe  tent  wiw 
I  tliey  could  not 

!  at  tbe  Magnetic 
Teat  joy,  be  saw 
I  previou8ly  been 
tbat  tbe  journey 


TliiMt'  niitivoM  did  not  appear  at  all  Hiirprined  at 
tbe  HJglit  of  wliitcHi  iinil,  by  iiu'imH  of  I'eleiMeii,  a 
conveiHation  w»w  at  once  begun,  tboiigb  tbe  Knglisb 
party  were  enreful  not  to  get  too  hooii  on  tbe  true 
object  of  Hieir  viHit. 

One  ol  tbe  men  bad  a  naval  button  on  bl><  dresH, 
wbicb  bo  explained  to  buve  como  from  Home  wbite 
people,  wbo  were  Hiarvod  on  an  iHland  wbeie  tliere 
are  Halmon:  by  wliic^b  tbey  meant  an  island  in  a 
river;  and  tbey  added,  tbat  tbey  batl  got  tlieir  iron 
kniven  in  tbe  same  way.  . 

Anotber  man  bad  been  to  Uepultio  Ray,  and  bad 
«een  Heveii  niembeiH  of  Kae's  party. 

Captain  .M'(!lintoek  went  on  witb  tbewe  people 
to  tbeir  village,  and  in  balf-an-bour  tbey  built  biin 
a  good  Huow-but.  lie  tben  told  tliem  tbat  be  wisbed 
to  barter  witb  tliem,  and  t^H})eeially  to  buy  all  I  be 
articles  litsloiiging  to  tbe  htarvod  wliites. 

So  next  morning  tbe  wbole  popuhition  <»f  tbe  vil- 
lage, coUHiHting  of  forty-five  people,  eame  out,  and 
readily  sohl  silvr  sfioona;  a  mlver  medal,  wbieb  bad 
bi'longed  to  Mr.  A.  M'Doiiald,  aHsiHtant-Hurgeon  ;  part 
of  a  gold  ebain,  Heveral  buttouH,  knives,  and  bows  and 
arrows,  made  of  different  parts  of  tbe  wreck. 

None  of  tbese  peopb)  bad  Hven  tbe  wbites,  tliougb 
one  man  said  be  bad  seen  tbe  bones  of  some  of  tliem  ; 
and  Petersen  understood  from  bim  tbat  a  boat  bad 
been  crusbed  by  tbe  ice. 

Anotber  nniu  told  bim  tbat  a  sbip  witb  tbree 
masts  bad  been  crushed  by  tbe  ice,  out  in  tiie  sea, 
westward  of  King  William's  Island;  hut  not  until  all 


BSSST' 


350 


am  LIXIPOLD  M'C'LINTOCK. 


the  crew  had  landed  safely.  He  said,  also,  that  the 
'ehip  sank ;  and  so  nothing  was  got  fronk  her.  All 
thoii  spoils  came  from  the  island  in  the  river. 

An  old  man  also  sketched  on  the  snow  the  coast- 
line, near  where  the  ship  sank  ;  but  Captain  M'Clin- 
tock  could  make  nothing  of  it. 

Thus  Dr.  Ilae's  statements  were  confirmed,  and 
one  ship  accounted  for ;  but  no  papers  whatever  were 
yel  obtained,  nor  was  anything  heard  of  the  other 
vessel.  The  old  people  all  remembered  the  visit  of  the 
'  Victory ; '  one  of  them,  an  old  man  named  Ooblooria, 
turning  out,  in  fact,  to  be  the  same  individual  whom 
Sir  James  Ross  had  employed  as  a  guide.  He  en- 
quired after  Sir  James,  by  his  Esquimaux  name  of 
Agglugga.  And  Captain  M'Clintock,  in  his  turn, 
asked  after  the  man  for  whom  a  wooden  leg  had 
been  made  by  tlie  carpenter  of  that  vessel ;  but  he 
got  no  direct  answer,  thougu  his  daughter  was 
pointed'  out  to  him.  Petersen  explained  that  this 
proved  the  man  to  be  dead,  as  the  Esquimaux  never 
like  to  speak  of  departed  friends. 

This  tribe  seemed  to  be  well  off;  they  were  clean 
and  well-dressed,  stout  and  hearty  people,  and  very 
friendly  i  but,  like  the  rest  of  their  nation,  terrible 
thieve-  They  have  a  great  partiality  for  needles ;  and 
one  woman,  in  order  to  obtain  more,  pulled  her  naked 
infant  out  of  its  fur-bag,  though  the  temperature 
was  60°  below  freezing,  and  held  it  up  before  the 
captain  ;  begging  in  this  way  for  one  for  her  child. 

Having  got  all  the  information  which  they  could 
obtain  from  these  people.  Captain  M'Clintock  re- 


,if««w*ss|«R»«w*)s««.i 


■v.-"-^'jUrt'<iM?^iC'i&uyf?->Vf,if,-\t'^V.av "-' 


'CLINTOCK. 

He  said,  also,  that  the 
was  got  from  her.  All 
land  in  the  river. 
i  on  the  snow  the  coast- 
It  ;  but  Captain  M'Clin- 
it. 

its  were  confirmed,  and 
no  papers  whatever  were 
ling  heard  of  the  other 
rtembered  the  visit  of  the 
i  man  named  Ooblooria, 
;  same  individual  whom 
d  as  a  guide.  He  en- 
lis  Esquimaux  name  of 
'Clintock,  in  his  turn, 
om  a  wooden  leg  had 
of  that  vessel ;  but  he 
ugli  his  daughter  was 
len  explained  that  this 
a  the  Esquimaux  never 
ids. 

ell  oflF;  they  were  clean  ' 
hearty  people,  and  very 
>f  their  nation,  terrible 
•tiality  for  needles ;  and 
more,  pulled  her  naked 
lOugh  the  temperature 

held  it  up  before  the 
•for  one  for  her  child, 
lation  which  they  could 
aptain  M'Clintock  re- 


•  •>mvs}V'vr:^iW*^^>f^^^Sd"i:'?'i<;^!v 


SLEDGKS  STAUr 


r^TTT 


^1 


mt 


turned  to  the  ■  Fox,'  where  lie  found  Captain  "i'oung, 
who  had  also  got  back.  All  were  eager  to  start 
again,  and  Dr.  Walker  soon  took  out  one  party ; 
while  Captain  Young  went  with  anotlier  to  Fury 
Beach,  where  many  valuable  supplies  yet  remained. 
He  found  that  preserved  vegetables  and  soups,  left 
there  in  1825,  yet  remained  good ;  and  the  party 
eupped  off  them!  They  also  brought  away  some 
sugar.  But  many  of  them  were  seized  with  snow- 
blindness  on  the  journey,  and  had  to  be  led  home. 

Those  were,  however,  only  preparatory  trips.  The 
three  great  journeys  did  not  commence  till  the  2nd  ■ 
of  April,  when  Dr.  Walker  remained  in  charge  of  the 
ship.  When  they  returned,  the  precious  document 
had  been  obtained  which  tells  of  the  fate  of  the 
gallant  crews. 

The  sledges  started,  each  with  their  gay  silk 
banners  flying,  while  the  yacht  hoisted  her  flag ; 
and,  by  the  20th  of  April,  Captain  M'Clintock  had 
again  met  "with  his  old  acquaintances  of  February 
last,  who  were  out  seal-hunting. 

Entering  their  huts,  which  were  of  a  more  elabo- 
rate form  than  usual,  and  contained  more  apartments 
than  the  former  ones,  they  found  many  articles  which 
had  evidently  once  belonged  to  an  English  ship,  and 
also  heard  that  two  ships  had  been  seen  by  the  na- 
tives of  King  William's  Island,  one  of  which  sank  in 
deep  water,  while  the  other  was  stranded  on  the 
shore  at  a  place  called  Oot-loo-lik  ;  and  that  it  was 
from  this  wreck  that  they  got  most  of  their  wood. 

It  was  a  young  man,  however,  who  let  out  this 


352 


SIR  LKOPOLD  M'CMNTOCK. 


piece  of  information ;  the  old  one  had  previously  said 
nothing  about  it.  The  young  one  also  spoke  of 
having  heard  of  the  body  of  a  very  large  man  being 
found  on  board  this  wreck.  They  both  said  that  it 
was  in  the  aatimin  when  the  crews  deserted  the  ship 
and  went  away  to  the  large  river,  and  that  in  the 
next  winter  their  bones  were  found  on  its  banks. 
But  the  old  man  also  gave  the  unpleasant  informa- 
tion of  one  of  the  depots  having  been  plundered  by 
some  of  his  countrymen,  who  had  followed  their  home- 
ward track  ;  which  piece  of  news  prevented  them 
from  making  any  further  depots  among  these  people. 

Captain  M'Clintock  had  travelled  in  compafiy 
with  Lieutenant  Hobson  so  far ;  and  they  went  on 
together  to  Cape  Victoria,  the  south-west  point  of 
Boothia,  where  they  separated,  the  former  proceeding 
on  towards  the  south,  while  the  latter  marched  across 
the  ice  to  Cape  Felix,  the  north-west  point  of  King 
William's  Island,  the  plan  being  that  Lieutenant 
Hobson  was  to  search  for  the  wreck,  and  Captain 
M'Clintock  for  the  relics  of  the  Fish  River  paity. 

Crossing  over  then  from  Boothia  to  King  Wil- 
liam's Island,  Captain  M'Clintock  once  more  met 
with  natives,  who,  though  tliey  seemed  never  before 
to  have  seen  white  people,  were  perfectly  friendly 
and  ready  to  trade.  These  also  knew  about  this 
wreck,  of  which,  they  said,  little  now  remained,  as 
their  countrymen  had  carried  much  of  it  away. 

They  sold  more  plate,  bearing  the  crests  or  initials 
of  Franklin,  Crozier,  Fairholme,  and  M'Donald,  and 
oflfered   a   heavy    sledge  n)ade  of  a   large  piec«   of 


1 


-^m 


f-TTJi 


rjjftr-ti-  t^j-^rTs  -v?^;:^  \ 


K. 

\  previously  said 
e  also  spoke  of 
large  man  being 
)oth  said  that  it 
ieserted  the  ship 
and  that  in  the 
d  on  its  banks, 
ileasant  infornia- 
en  plundered  by 
)wed  their  home- 
prevented  them 
)ng  these  people, 
led  in  compafiy 
id  they  went  on 
th-west  point  of 
irnier  proceeding 
r  marched  across 
st  point  of  King 
that  Lieutenant 
ck,  and  Captain 
1  River  paity. 
lia  to  King  Wil- 
once  more  met 
ned  never  before 
)erfectly  friendly 
knew  about  this 
ow  remained,  as 
li  of  it  away, 
i  crests  or  initials 
i  M'Donald,  and 
I   large  piece   of 


FURTHER  INTELLIGENCE. 


SfiS 


i 


carved  wood ;  but  this  was  too  heavy  to  be  carried 
away.  '  It  was  five  days'  journey  to  the  wreck,' 
they  said,  and  there  had  been  many  hooka  ;  but  the 
weather  had  long  ago  destroyed  them. 

An  old  woman  also  spoke  of  the  white  men  who 
dropped  down  and  died  aa  they  travelled  to  the 
river,  of  whom  she  said  some  were  buried,  and  some 
were  not;  but  as  to  the  number  of  these  poor 
fellows,  nothing  could  be  ascertained. 

Captain  M'Clintock,  it  should  be  remembered, 
was  examining  all  round  the  eastern  part  of  this 
large  island.  He  soon  came  to  a  bay  which  he 
name* '  Latrobe,'  after  the  esteemed  Moravian  friend 
of  Tir  John  Franklin,  and  on  the  10th  of  May 
reached  Booth  Point,  the  south-eastern  extremity, 
where  they  only  met  two  or  three  old  people  who 
were  too  frightened  to  give  any  information.  On 
the  12th  the}'^  crossed  over  to  Point  Ogle,  on  the 
continent,  and  just  at  the  mouth  of  Back's  River. 
Down  this  they  journeyed  as  far  as  Montreal  Island, 
but  were  obliged  to  travel  by  night  to  escape  snow- 
blindness.  No  relics  were,  however,  obtained  there ; 
so  they  crossed  over  to  the  mainland,  and  examined 
the  shores  of  Duncan  Point  with  as  little  success. 

Ogle  peninsula  was  next  searched,  and  a  cairn 
found  there  taken  down  and  rebuilt;  but  nothing 
was  discovered.  They  were  now  on  their  return 
journey,  and  on  the  very  shores  on  which  the  un- 
fortunate crews  must  have  marched.  But  the  sledges 
kept  on  the  sea-ice  close  to  the  shore,  while  the  men 
narrowly  looked  out  for  any  trace  of  relics. 

A  A 


■  t 


3fi4 


SIR  LEOPOLD  M'CLINTOCK. 


It  was  on  the  25th  of  May  that  Captain  M'Clin- 
tock  came  on  a  very  painful  one,  namely,  the  skeleton 
of  a  slight  yonng  man,  who  from  his  dress,  and 
especially  the  loose  bow-knot  in   which  his  hand- 
kerchief was  tied,  was  judged  to  have  been  a  steward 
or  officer's  servant ;  but  the  face  and  limbs  had  been 
gnawed  away  or  broken  by  wild  beasts.     Near  him 
was  found  a  frozen   pccket-book,  a  clothes-brush, 
and  pocket  horn-comb;  all  which  articles,  had  the 
Esquimaux  discovered  him,  would  have  been  stolen. 
The  poor  young  fellow  seems  to  have  fallen  down 
exhausted,— probably    fell    asleep,    and     so    died. 
Nothing  but  deserted  native  huts  were  found  along 
the  south  coast  of  King  William's  Island,  :o  wnich 
they  now  bent  their  steps,  making  for  Point  Her- 
schel,    in    Washington    Bay,  where    it    had    been 
arranged  that  Hobson  should  leave  a  note. 

A  cairn  built  by  Simpson  stands  conspicuously  on 
the  summit  of  this'  cape,  at  about  150  feet  above  the 
It  now  appears  that  the  retreating  parties  must 


sea. 


have  passed  this  point,  travelling  as  they  did  round 
the  west  of  King  William's  Island  ;  m-  herefore  it 
was  natural  to  expect  records  here,  wbere  f'-  .  irn 
was  built  ready  to  their  hand?  They  as^ht  <j..'r 
have  recorded  here  the  discovery  of  the  y'f'f''-  i'\:,t 

Passage. 

A  very  careful  search  was  therefore  immediately 
instituted.  The  cairn  was  taken  down  stone  by 
stone,  and  all  the  ground  broken  up  with  a  pickaxe. 
The  appearance  of  any  cairn  will  always  tell  whether 
it  has  been  taken  down   and  rebuilt,  and  some  signs 


FINDING  r-F  THE  BECOBD. 


355 


laptain  M'Clin- 
ly,  the  skeleton 
his   dress,  and 
hich  his  hand- 
been  a  steward 
limbs  had  been 
ists.     Near  him  ■ 
I  clothes-brush, 
irticles,  had  the 
ave  been  stolen, 
ave  fallen  down 
and     so    died, 
ere  found  along 
[sland,  :o  wnich 
for  Point  Her- 
3    it    had    been 
I  a  note, 
conspicuously  on 
)0  feet  above  the 
iing  parties  must 
8  they  did  round 
\ni;    herefore  it 
where  ^Mh  c-irn 
rhey  juigb*:  ov'-"'. 

sfore  immediately 
down  stone  by 
p  with  a  pickaxe, 
ways  tell  whether 
t,  and  some  signs 


of  this  having  been  done  were  perceived  on  one 
side ;  yet  with  the  bitterest  disappointment  they 
were  compelled  at  laat  to  turn  away  without  finding 
the  records  which  it  seemed  impossible  to  believe 
were  not  there. 

Nevertheless,  the  interesting  discovery  was  close 
at  hand.  It  had  already,  in  fact,  been  made  by 
Lieutenant  Hobson,  who  had  been  at  a  spot  a  few 
milt  e  fcirther  on,  whe.s  his  note,  left  in  a  new  cairn 
built  by  himself,  waa  found. 

He  had  discovered  the  record  so  long  and 
anxiously  sought,  not  at  Cape  Herschel,  but  at  Point 
Vicv  .  on  the  north-west  of  the  island — the  spot 
VfCfife  'he  ships  were  deserted.  It  was  written  on 
on 3  ai  the  printed  forms  supplied  to  all  the  Arctic 
ships,  and  was  soldered  up  in  a  thin  tin  cylinder ; 
Tnd  a  duplicate  was  also  found  in  Back  Bay,  but 
sw^tiiout  further  information.    The  paper  ran  thus : — 

*28«*  of  Mai/,  1847.— H.  M.  ships  "Erebus"  and 
"  T  .i-ror'  vvintered  in  the  ice,  in  lat.  70°  6'  N. ;  long. 
'13°  23'  W. 

'  Havint^  wintered  in  1846-7  at  Beechey  Island,  in 
lat.  74°  43'  28"  N.,  long.  91°  3i»'  16"  W.,  after  having 
ascended  VV  "llingtoa  Channel  to  lat.  77°,  and  returned  by 
ine  \.-e8t  side  of  Cornwallis  Island. 

'  Sir  John  Franklin  commanding  the  expedition. 

'  All  well. 

'  Party  consisting  of  2  officers  and  6  men  left  the 
ships  on  Monday,  24th  May,  1847. 

'  Gm.  Gore,  Lieut. 

'  Chas.  F.  Deb  Vceux,  Mate.' 

The  tirst  date  is  evidently  an  error,  as  they  bad 


-m 


356 


SIR  LEOPOLD  M'CLINTOCK. 


€^ 


by  their  own  showing  passed  two  winters  in  the 
ice ;  and  the  first  must  therefore  have  been  that  of 
1845-6.  They  had  accomplished  the  passage  when 
this  was  written  in  good  spirits,,  having  descended 
southwards  by  the  channel  now  known  as  Franklin's, 
between  Prince  of  Wales'  Land  and  North  Somerset, 
and  Boothia,  into  a  sea  which  was  well  known.  But 
'  a  short  time  changed  all  their  prospects,  and  a  few 
months  afterwards  another  hand  had  added  round 
the  margin  the  following  melancholy  tidings : — 

'  April 25, 1848.— H.  M.  ships  "  Terror"  and  "Erebus" 
were  deserted  on  the  22d  of  April,  5  leagues  W.N.W.  of 
this,  having  been  beset  sincp  12th  Soptember,  1846.  The 
officers  and  crews,  consisting  of  106  souls,  under  the 
command  of  Capt.  T.  R.  M.  Crozier,  landed  here  in 
lat.  6^°  37'  4^  •  N.,  long.  98°  41'  W.  Sir  John  Franklin 
died  on  the  11th  of  June.  1847,  and  the  total  loss  by 
deaths  in  the  expedition  has  been  to  this  date  9  officers 
and  15  men.  . 

(Signed)  '  T.  R.  M.  Crozier,     \ 

*  Captain  and  Senior  Officer.'    ^' 
(Signed)  '  James  Fitzjames, 

'  Captain  H.  M.  S.  "  Erebus." 
And  start  (on)  to-morrow,  26tb    ijr  Back's  Fish  River.' 
There  was   also    lit other  cdditiou,  by   a  third 
hand :  — 

'  This  paper  was  found  by  Lieuten.int  Irving,  under  the 
«airn  supposed  to  have  been  built  by  Sir  James  Ross  in 
1831'.  four  miles  to  the  northward,  where  it,  had  been 
deposited  by  the  late  Commander  Gore  in  June  1847. 
Sir  James  Ross'  pillar  has  not,  however,  been  found,  and 
tlie  paper  is  iransferred  to  this  position,  which  is  that  in 
which  Sir  Jan.3s  Ross'  pillar  was  erected.' 


vinters  in  the 
ire  been  that  of 
!  passage  when 
ing  descended 
I  as  Franklin's, 
orth  Somerset, 
U  known.  But 
ects,  and  a  few 
I  added  round 
tidinps: — 

r"  and  "Erebus" 
gues  W.N.W.  of 
iber,  1846.  The 
souls,  uijder  the 
landed  here  in 
ir  John  Franklin 
he  total  loss  by 
is  date  9  officers 

i.  Crozier,     "\ 
Senior  Officer.'    ^ 

li'lTZJAMES, 

:.  S. "  Erebus." 
lek'a  Fifth  River.' 

)u,  by   a  third 

Irving,  under  the 
Ir  James  Robs  in 
here  it,  had  been 
B  in  June  1847. 
,  been  found,  and 
,  which  is  that  in 


'\ 


-*^; 


HUMAN  SKELETONS. 


357 


Such  news  stimulated  M'Clintook's  party  to 
press  on,  as  did  also  the  shortness  of  their  pro- 
visions. 

They  reached  the  western  point  of  the  island  on 
the*  29th  of  May,  and  named  it  after  Captain  Crozier ; 
and  on  the  next  day  they  came  to  a  large  boat,  of 
which  Lieutenant  Hobson  had  also  spoken.  This 
boat  contained  an  immense  quantity  of  clothing, 
though  not  one  article  bore  its  owner's  name ;  but  the 
first  sight  showed  them  what  turned  their  attention 
from  everything  else ;  namely,  parts  of  two  human 
skeletons.  It  was  a  sight  which  struck  them  •'.U 
with  horror ;  but  no  part  of  the  skull  of  either  was 
found  which  could  lead  to  the  identification  of  the 
persons,  for  they  had  both  been  the  food  of  wolves. 

A  pair  of  worked  slippers  lay  near  to  one  ;  and 
by  the  other,  five  watches.  But  the  search  for 
journals  or  pocket-books  was  again  vain ;  five  or  six 
small  books  only  were  found — all  devotional  ones, 
except  the  Vicar  of  Wakefield.  A  small  Bible  also 
lay  there,  in  which  were  whole  passages  underlined, 
and  many  marginal  notes ;  and  there  were,  besides, 
the  covers  of  a  New  Testament  and  Prayer-book. 
No  food  was  found  in  this  boat,  except  tea  and 
chocolate;  but  of  other  articles  there  was  an  im- 
mense variety,  including  plate,  with  the  well-known 
crests  of  many  of  the  unfortunate  officers.  This 
boat,  which  rested  on  a  sledge,  was  about  fifty  miles 
from  Point  Victory,  and  seventy  miles  from  the  first 
skeleton  found.  It  was  directed  towards  the  ships, 
as  if  returning  to  them.     Perhaps  a  party  had  gone 


■I 


358 


SIE  LEOP(jLD  m'clintwk. 


>,.h 


forward  for  fresh  supplies,  leaving  tlieee  two  in  charge 
of  the  boat,  and  had  not  been  able  to  returTi. 

Captain  M'Clintock  now,  naturally,  was  chiefly 
anxious  to  find  the  wreck  itself:  but  no  sign  of  her 
was  to  be  seen:  nor  did  he  find  any  other  relics. 
Hobson  found  two  other  cairns,  and  other  interesting 
.articles,  and  everything  that  could  be  carried  wns 
borne  away.  Strange  to  say,  however,  out  of  all  the 
immense  heap  of  clothing,  no  memorandum  of  any 
kind  was  found  in  the  pockets.  Yet  Esquimaux 
could  hardly  have  visited  these  parts,  or  all  would 
have  been  taken  away.  Captain  M'Clintock  thought, 
that  if  Sir  John  Franklin  had  known  of  a  passage 
eastward  of  King  William's  Island,  he  would  have 
taken  it  and  escaped  all  the  disasters  which  befell  h'im 
and  his  crew ;  but  his  chart  told  him  of  none  such. 

Both  the  searching  parties  now  returned  to  the 
'  Fox.'  Indeed,  it  was  high  time  that  Lieutenant 
Hobson  did  so,  as  he  was  too  ill  even  to  stand  alone, 
on  his  arrival,  from  the  effects  of  scurvy.  But, 
happily,  Christian  had  shot  some  ducks,  which,  with 
preservec'  lotatoe,  milk,  strong  ale,  and  lemon- 
juice,  pro\  p  1  the  best  medicine  for  him ;  and  he  soon 
began  to  amend.  One  man,  the  steward,  had  died 
from  this  disease  d"ring  their  abseace;  but  the  lest 
were  tolerably  well. 

Captain  Young  had,  meantime,  discovered  a 
passage  between  Victoria  and  Prince  of  Wales' 
Lands.  He  had  come  back  in  bad  health;  and, 
contrary  to  the  doctor's  opinion,  had  gone  out  again. 
As,  therefore,  there    was  much  cause  for   anxiety 


■^>;nw 


"%'i 


se  two  in  charge 

3    rfctUl'TI. 

Jly,  was  chiefly 
no  sign  of  her 
ay  other  relicp. 
»ther  interesting 
be  carried  was  ' 
;r,  out  of  all  the 
orandum  of  any 
ifet  Esquimaux 
s,  or  all  would 
lintock  thought, 
wn  of  a  passage 
he  would  have 
which  befell  him 
of  none  such, 
returned  i  o  the 
that  Lieutenant 
I  to  stand  alone, 
f  scurvy.  But, 
.'ks,  which,  with 
.e,  and  lemon- 
im ;  and  he  soon 
eward,  had  died 
3e;  but  the  lest 

i,  discovered  a 
ince  of  Wales' 
id  health ;  and, 
gone  out  again. 
use   for   anxiety 


RETURN  TO  ENGLANIJ. 


359 


about  him,  Captain  M'Clintock  himself  now  set  off 
in  search  of  him.  He  was  found  at  last  in  a  terribly 
reduced  state ;  and  all  returned  to  recruit  by  a  liberal 
indulgence  in  all  the  good  things  on  board  ship. 

Every  one  knows  what  it  is  to  have  important 
news  to  communicate,  and  how  impatient  persons  in 
such  a  position  are  of  every  obstaclo.  And  no  one 
will  wonder  that,  in  the  present  instance,  a  third 
winter  in  the  ice  was  much  dreaded. 

On  the  breaking  up  of  the  ice  the  steam  was  got 
up,  and,  with  the  help  of  the  two  stokers.  Captain 
M'Clintock  found  that  he  could  work  the  engine 
himself.  This  was  a  great  relief;  and  a  greater 
atill  was  it  when,  on  the  10th,  a  passage  cleared  in 
the  ice,  and  they  were  really  able  to  start.  On  the 
17tli  they  passed  Fury  Beach,  and  were  soon  after 
off  Port  Leopold,  and  then  out  in  open  sea.  By 
the  28th  they  reached  the  Danish  harbour  of  God- 
haven,  where  the  two  Esquimaux  were  discharged ; 
and  on  the  21st  of  September  Captain  M'Clintock 
reached  London,  and  was  able  to  report  the  result  of 
his  voyage  at  the  Admiralty.  There  he  learnt  that 
instead  of  138  men,  as  had  been  supposed,  only  134 
sailed  in  the  *  Erebus '  and  '  Terror,'  and  that  of 
these,  five  had  returned  invalided  before  they  en- 
tered the  ice.  He  thinks  that  it  is  wholly  unlikely 
that  any  persons  could  have  escaped  death  by  taking 
refuge  among  the  Esquimaux,  as  there  were  very 
few  on  the  island,  and  these,  generally,  were  so 
ready  to  ^ive  information  that,  had  they  helped  the 
poor  whites,  they  would  certainly  have  spoken  of  it. 


IMISS^fi 


360 


SIB  LEOPOLD  M'CLINTOCK. 


11 


?■>  . 
1 

r 

'it' 

'i't 


The  relics  which  were  brought  home  were  depo- 
sited at  the  United  Service  Institution,  and  it  is 
needless  to  state,  that  those  who  brought  them  were 
received  everywhere  with  the  hearty  welcome  which 
they  so  well  deserved. 

Arctic  medals  were  given  to  all  who  had  not 
previously  received  them.  Lieutenant  Hobson  was 
informed  that  he  would  shortly  be  promoted;  and 
her  Majesty,  in  due  time,  bestowed  on  Captain 
M'Clintock  the  honour  of  knighthood,  with  which 
his  predecessors  had  so  uniformly  been  rewarded. 

By  the  discovery  of  Barrow's  Straits,  Sir  Ed- 
ward Parry  may  be  said  to  have  unlocked  the 
door  through  which,  by  dififerent  routes.  Sir  John 
Franklin,  Sir  Robert  M'Clure,  and  Sir  Leopold 
M'Clintock,  ■  have  each  shown  us  a  way  into  the 
Pacific.  These  ways  are,  however,  so  barred  up  by 
natural  obstacles  as  to  be  practically  useless ;  but 
the  service  itself  has  proved  so  valuable  a  training 
for  British  sailors  in  times  of  peace :  through  it 
wo  have  been  introduced  t>  so  many  lands  and 
peoples  formerly  unknown,  and  it  has  led  to  such 
discoveries  in  the  realms  of  science,  that  the  time, 
talent,  and  treasure  which  it  has  cost,  cannot  be 
Haid  to  have  been  thrown  away. 


LONDON: 
STRANnEWATB  k  Walden,  Printers,  Cutio  St.  L«icei>tor  Sq. 


•> 


c. 

ame  were  depo- 
tion,  and  it  is 
light  them  were 
welcome  which 

1  who  had  not 
ant  Hobfion  was 
promoted ;  and 
ed  on  Captain 
lod,  with  which 
en  rewarded, 
traits,  Sir  Ed- 
!  unlocked  the 
out-es,  Sir  John 
id  Sir  Leopold 
I  way  into  the 
JO  barred  up  by 
lly  useless ;  but 
uable  a  training 
ace :  through  it 
nany  lands  and 
has  led  to  such 
>,  that  the  time, 
cost,  cannot  be 


St.  Loicebtor  Sq. 


,■;',)'■''■?• 


